This plant has been pretty easy. No real problems throughout entire grow. Now waiting to cure for 4 weeks before i try it out.

Hubo muchos cambios, no pude asegurar las hojas y se terminaron marchitando la mayoría, ahora creo yo que esta recuperándose, espero que sea este el caso. Solo estuve regando con agua y nada mas, me da lastima todo lo que le paso, tan bien que iba, y ahora le paso de todo, por otro lado se ven bien los cogollos, no tan desarrollados como me gustaría pero creo que en estas semanas van a mejorar.

Start of week 10 am amazed at their transition, gave them a light trim last night to allow some light through. All 8 have pistils but we have 1 that is developing slower with only a few on it, the rest are covered in pre flowers. Have increased feeding to 3L per day and barely getting any runoff. Gradually increasing the volume to achieve 10-20%. It appears that once everything is dialled in they get hungry! Increased feeding to 4 litres daily 6 out of 8 plants had less than 50ml runoff, next feed will increase to 5L, the other 2 I will keep at 4L as they had good runoff. PH was on the higher side on the smaller ones so will do a drip clean mix to flush out the salts May have a male or hermie in there not sure yet I thought I’d seen pistils but not so sure now… while the others are covered in pre flowers this one just isn’t the same.. who knows maybe a late bloomer? Confirmed 24 hrs later definitely a rooster in the hen house. Chopped his neck! Started with 10.. now 7 remain. Silver linings is the girls have more breathing room now

Empty watering was done before going into overdrive. ssh took too long criticalwidow fills 30th day in flower.

Blütewoche 2 Die Blüte kommt in Schwung. Die Pflanze streckt sich und entwickelt Blütenstände. Der DLI wurde sukzessive auf 40-45 angehoben. Der Düngeplan bleibt unverändert. * Zustand der Pflanze: Kräftiger Blütestretch, erste Blütenstände sichtbar. * Wichtige Ereignisse: Anhebung des DLI. * Düngung & Messwerte: * Gießwasser: pH ca. 6,3. Leitwert 1,4 bis 2 S. * Drain: Wir stellen sicher, dass der pH-Wert nicht unter 5,5 und nicht über 6,8 liegt und der Leitwert die +/- 500 S Abweichung einhält. * Anpassungen: keine

Growing it was straight forward. Very resistant to temp changes, loved every bit of nutrients I gave her. Buds have turned out beautiful and harvesting 4.5 ounces dry on one plant is always nice

👉Alrighty Then👈 👉 Punch F1👈 We had some real nice growth this , had to do a little leaf management👈 The Stretch is on ..... Low Stress Training to pull the lower branches out .... Everything is looking good 👍Having issues due to using my well water , it's hard so I'm having slight issues but I am on it ..... So ive up'd the nutrients to accommodate pre flower ..... Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Lights by MarsHydro.ca FC4800 X UR45 X Adlite Deep Red And Blue Tent 4x4x6.5 & Equipment by MarsHydro.ca High reflectivity inner mylar Thick Oxford fabric Smooth heavy duty zipper Sturdy metal frame Zipper blackout cloth Good anti light leakage performance The 6in Inline kicks ass moves alot of air ●Blue Light Effect: Blue light shortens internodes, resulting in shorter, stronger plants, ideal for supporting fruit development later. During vegetative growth, blue light promotes lateral branch development effectively. Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈

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*Growdiaries deleted this section (don't ask me why). So everything in this week is from the top of my head (like 2 weeks later): _Environment This week, I went back to watering (gently) to get the soil used to a ‘normal’ assimilation rate again. As a result, the temperature dropped slightly, while the relative humidity increased at the same time (which was of course elevated by the fact that I removed the sand at the end of last week). _Plants + Training Gentle defoliation continued this week. However, it became apparent that Mimosa Cake Auto requires significantly more attention than Gorilla Z Auto, as it grows incredibly densely and intertwines. It also seemed like the Mimosa Cake Auto was about to crack due to the high forces (no space to bend and stretch because everything is just nodes and side branches). *Gorilla Z Auto was ??? cm tall, Mimosa Cake Auto ??? cm. _Organisms As you can see, microbial life is still in full swing. Numerous springtails can be seen (yellow sticky traps), Oribatida are decomposing organic material, etc. _Living Soil To check the most important indicator of healthy soil life, I carried out a pH test this week. This showed a value of 7, which is slightly too high but definitely within an acceptable range. [Living soil should be between 6 and 7, ideally 6.4–6.6.] _(Pre)Flower Mimosa Cake also started showing its first pistils (it seems like both plants are 5 - 10 days apart).

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~ 10/01/21 😻 Week 6 is here!! The girls are starting to get really heavy, we may be forced to cage the rest for support, we couldn't move them much this week for fear of them collapsing..not recognizing or stopping the runaway stretch soon enough has come back to bite us..lesson learned about this strain.. the canopy is terribly uneven lol, we're just kinda letting them do their own thing at this point, we did drop 1 of 2 lights to accommodate the shortest of the group. The buds on this strain are incredibly dense, it looks like it will be some pretty good smoke ..we'll likely cut all feed by the end of this week, giving them roughly 2-3 to flush out..thanks for reading if you made it this far and happy harvests friends!!! 😽💨❤️💡🌱 https://youtu.be/KZXdy_l_b_A ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~ 10/04/21 😾 Well it happened, they finally buckled lol, this bud is super dense..and more popcorn than we usually get ( ill make hubby clean it lol 😸) but even that will have some weight to it. We staked 2 of 3 plants and decided to switch to ph water for the remaining 3 weeks (or so)..thanks for stopping by grow family and happy harvests!! 💡🌱❤️😽💨 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~

8cm vertical growth this week!!! She's pushed out quite a few new leaves. Looking forward to the next few weeks!! 💪 😎

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 So what do you say we have some fun 👈 We got some EXOTIC SEEDS 👉 👻👻👻MONSTERMASH👻👻👻 😛 Well my friends we are just at the 63 mark and as you can see shes doing great 👈 👉 So folks , she's been quite the little monster , and she's building some nice buds 👈 Shes the only one that hasn't had any real issues 😎 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

So far it seems to be fine even if the high humidity worries me even if the temperatures are still high then they have stopped growing and will finally focus on the flowers and slowly we recover these small deficiencies

7/11/25 New week babieess😍😍!!!! 7/13/25 Ohhh baby, the Mephisto experiment is cooking so so good right now. I’m actually kind of stunned at how things are evolving, especially with Forum Stomper, a.k.a. Stompy the Comeback Queen. She had kind of a rocky start — I mean, cotyledons were looking funky, and she went all bush-mode on me: dense structure, super tight internodal spacing, real short-stack energy. But oh no no, she wasn’t done. Fast forward to now... Stompy is a straight-up MONSTER. A chunky, thriving beast that just keeps getting bigger — and I know she’s not done yet. She’s officially stretching into flower now. Not just hinting at it — nah, full flowering stretch is underway, and she’s reaching up like she just realized she’s got room to take over the whole tent. I love this part. Today was watering day, and both girls got their special cocktails. First up, Grapey. She drank 4.4 liters of love, with her mix spiked up with BioBloom at 16 ml, Topmax at 12 ml, BioHeaven at 16 ml, Activera at 16 ml, Agamic at 12 ml, and a touch of CalMag at 3.5 ml. She’s hitting flower hard now too, and this brew should set her up to swell up sweet and loud. Going in: pH 6,23, PPM 510 Temp 22,5 °C Runoff: pH 6,47, PPM 1350 Then we’ve got Stompy, the Comeback Queen. She got 4 liters of her own nutrient-rich mix: BioBloom 12 ml, Topmax 10 ml, Activera 12 ml, BioHeaven 12 ml, Agamic 10 ml, CalMag 3.5 ml, and just a whisper of CicaMax at 0.3 ml to finesse that vigor. Oh, and let’s not forget — she also got her guano top dress today. I scooped out one of my little measuring cups, sprinkled it in like fairy dust, and let nature do its thing. This is going to kick the bloom engine into overdrive. Going in: pH 6,22 PPM 485 Temp 22 °C Runoff: pH 6,7 PPM 650 7/17/25 Today Grapey got 4.8 liters of water, going in pH at 6.0, PPM 88, temperature 21.2 degrees Celsius. Runoff was pH 6.8 and PPM 760. Stompy got also 4.8 liters of water, pH going in at 6.0, PPM 106, temperature 21 degrees. Runoff came out pH 6.2 and PPM 2000. Goddamn 😅 but she seems okay with it. I think the next watering will also be just plain water because she has enough there. I will see.😍

I have had a very nice journey growing her, she has given a great quality and quantity pf buds, very hard dense flowrs with a clasic strong amnesia smell that I enjoy a lot specially for the happy energetic buzz that provides you.

26.12.24: I have noticed light stress on my plants. I had moved the lights further away and increased the light intensity to 70%. Unfortunately that created some issues. Namely severe palour of the leaves. To try and rectify the situation, I've dimmed the lights to about 30%, staying at the same distance, about 30 inches away. I measured the par levels, after I did this. They should a reading of anywhere between 40 and 150, at the canopy of the plants. They are all different sizes. This seems to have improved the colouring on all plants. After this evenings watering, I will monitor recovery and increase lighting intensity again slowly. I am also using the light cycle of 21/3, so the plants have many hours more light to absorb, than for example 12/12 or 18/6. I am pleased with the progress, considering all of my mistakes! 29.12.24: So I finally gave LST a shot, it's probably a bit too late, however I really want to get the most of the triploid pheno, and I went a little crazy and LST'd all plants except 2, as they're too small. I did that late last night, this afternoon I was amazed to see the plants turn their leaves back to the light source. I'm glad I overcame my fear of trying it. I'm very excited to see them adapt and progress! 😁 there are videos above with before and after of my LST process. Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️