My plants are going too yellow, now i pull back on the nutrients. I just gave them Water last feeding and will see how it will continue, They still need 2-3 weeks, Smell is getting stronger starting this week and they are a bit "snowing"

Runtz from Zamnesia is came along from her tiny shape. Got a great clone and is also catching up. She's on about week 14 (the mother & clone on week 4). I have had to change things up a bit. The test with/out Green Sensation is still going forward. But, I'll be using Xpert Nutrients (for both mother & clone). Momma will go on Green Sensation after pre flower. The clone will be flipped on week 6-7. I won't make the contest. But, it'll still be a good test that I'm determined to finish. Giving results to show the clear difference with/out Green Sensation. I've started the mother on Master Bloom from Xpert and Co. The clone has started a light Master Grow Feed (200ppm) with Master root. Mother 70 days old Clone: 10-12 days old. Both are thriving. The mother got a little ph issues during the flip process but is fully undercontrol & has provided a good base for the test to continue without risk tainting the end results. Clone will be transferred to a 9L pot. And fed more or less exactly as the mother. (I've also got a spare clone) I'll be keeping in the veg state for the summer. As if I get really nice results from this pheno. I really want to make sure I have it again & again. Runtz been one if my favourite strains. DISCOUNT CODES 20% OFF ZAMNESIA WITH CODE: ZAMMIGROW2024 20% OFF XPERT NUTRIENTS/KANNABIA with code: GGST 20% OFF ORINGAL SENSIBLE SEEDS WITH CODE:

The gnats are pretty much gone but I saw one today sadly. We pruned them on the bottoms to give more room to grow. Next grow I hope to do it sooner. We are going to be starting nutrients back up on Monday which will be exciting.

Completing the twelfth week. Plant 1 - Completing the twelfth week of life. Plant 2 - Completing the Eleventh week of life. Plant 3 - Completing the Eleventh week of life. Plant 4 - Completing the tenth week of life. Completing the first week of flowering, I hope to know soon if they are females. KeepGrowing.......!

BAM she has definitely starting growing quite quickly, looking very healthy. Still the biggest of the 4 ladies in the tent. Have been folair feeding bout 45 min after the lights come on, dunno how much its helping but she looks great so its not doing anything bad lol Will be topping her in the next day or two and start setting up my scrog. This round is going to be similar to last. I will have four photo period ladies that I will scrog out a bit, there will also be 5 autos in the tent that will be topped and scrogged to have a nice even canopy in the tent. Havent made up my mind with topping autos yet but it seems to be about the same either way. so i figure with topping i can have more plants with an even canopy.

Week 3 of flowering 10/2/24 Put on another net for support. Defoliated and lollipoped front plants. Watering 4 times a day (with little runoff at the first watering) one hand watering with full saturation of the media with 10% runoff at the end of the week. Checking runoff EC once in 3 days. Hopefully plants reached maximum stretch (lights now at max height and 80% power). changed nutrients schedule to mid bloom (base chart from CocoForCannabis, with small changes to the nutrient line I have). Adding 2.5ml/gal of H2O2 (35%) to the reservoir to keep bacteria away.

I stoped feeding as we are olmost at closing weeks

La floraison a débuté le 38ème jour Jour 36: Arrosage eau 3l Flo 1: Arrosage engrais complet 2l et taille des secondaires Flo 3: Arrosage engrais complet 3,5l

Gracias al equipo de Fast Buds 420 por la donación de las semillas y poder inscribirme en el concurso del año. Creada a partir de la genética de la Girl Scout Cookies y la Gorilla Glue #4, seleccionadas a mano y en combinación con nuestra famosa Gorilla Cookies Auto, esta variedad lleva todos los mejores atributos de sus padres al más alto nivel. Este híbrido maravillosamente equilibrado prospera en el interior y en el exterior, y en todo tipo de climas, a la vez que es superresistente a los bichos y las plagas. Es una productora masiva que ofrece a los cultivadores de todos los niveles rendimientos de hasta 650 g/m² de cogollos de primera calidad que no decepcionan en absoluto. Siendo una de las versiones más potentes de esta genética, la Gorilla Cookies FF (Fastflowering) presume de un enorme porcentaje de 29 % de THC que se traduce en montones de resina y terps sabrosos que hacen las mejores extracciones. Es la elección perfecta para los cultivadores de hachís que buscan cepas de gran potencia que produzcan sabores y aromas excepcionales. Consigue aquí tus semillas 😁🌻🚀: https://2fast4buds.com/es/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering

Plant starts to change colours , trichomes start changing from clear to cloudy . I am checking the development every 3 Days , looking in top , middle and bottom , to get a good avg. result . Overall I want like 5-10% Clear ones , 70-90% cloudy ones and around 5-10% amber ones , this wont be achieved perfectly in every layer , but gives me a little more variety in the effect later on. I do sort them when I put them in jars or curing bags. I flush with around 2-3l with a little top max acti vera and heaven like 1-2ml per l on the first flush with like 10 % runoff , after like 2 Days i went with clear water aiming for very little run off . Also cleaning my pot with a pump sprayer to get salts and used fertilizer out of it . I think the plant has another 1-2 weeks to go .

I’ve redeemed myself for the lack of photos last week!! These girls are caking up absolutely incredible. I hope harvest is only a few weeks out now, but I don’t see a lot of milky tricimes yet, and no ambers in sight at all. I took off a few low side branches to dry, and see how they go. Smell is amazing. Very sweet of sorts. Very hard to describe. Definitely got a lot of gas too.

AM3 was a bit of a leaf monster, but it was a smaller plant that finished after just 7 weeks of flower. AM2 brought the beef and is stacked top-to-bottom. Have some minty aroma at harvest, but we'll see how that progresses as it dries and cures. AM3 is already in the curing bucket and still has some mintiness. Being a smaller batch of buds, it was dry after 9+ days. Definitely a variety that benefits from a few weeks of curing. Still had a little grassy smell on AM3 as it entered cure. I expect these to be good smoke.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Hi everyone ! i was away this week, so i full the 2 tanks before i leave, and ask to the room mate to adjust pH each day and add only tap water when the level drop. when i come back home again, some leaves turn brown and dry on the edge 😢 and the leaves are all curled down. i don't know if it's due to overdose, pH fluctuation, etc ... Do you have any ideas guys ? Edit : I bet on Mg carrency

Привет садоводы и огородники !!! Растение чувствует себя хорошо оно зачвело и вытянулось до 60 сантиметров цвет листьев отличный

Zamnesia Seeds thank you so much for the opportunity to grow this amazing strain! She might not be the biggest but she's also a small pot with limited amount of organic nutrients but as they say you live and you learn.. I'm not saying organics aren't good I'm saying if you're going to do organics do it the right way or don't do it at all.. I will run this girl again in the future with my maxi balloon and turn her into a half pound plant because she smells amazing and he has these hues of green of blue of white of purple all blended into an amazing flower.. definitely check Zamnesia Seeds they have everything a smoker and or grower could ever need.. hope all is well God bless and happy growing ✌️😎 🍉🍬🔥 https://www.zamnesia.com/us/

week intel: everything is perfect! stresses : just a little E.C stress around 1.7 once a week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them heavy with silicate +base nutrients(calcium & micros + Bloom) about 818 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Feeding Booster + Karbo Boost around 382 ppm - 0.7 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them with low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 250 ppm - 0.5 e.c to let them recover the stresses to get ready for another stress next week. guide of the week : know your plant tolerance limit of E.C stress once you saw the very very little yellowing on tips of leaves , that's the sign to don't go further , never reach that limit if you want a high quality buds, in my case tolerance is 1.8 and i'll reach to that level only once a week to cause precision stress , love your plants and have a happy growing!

The girl looks pretty good:) I'm coming back from vacation this Saturday and I'll finally see her, I miss her :) good luck to everyone:).

Estos videos fueron echos el 25 de diciembre de 2021. Creciendo poco a poco, se les hizo poda de bajos y tutorado. feliz navidad les desean las babys! ig: @micro.semilla

Plants are growing well. set up veg tent with new ac infinity tent and fan.