She’s starting to flower up real nice smell is starting to get strong top dressing with natureslivingsoil autoflower concentrate

I'm just all to excited with how the next two weeks are gonna span out😁 Started giving only water this week as the plants are fading fast, and im seeing an amber trichome here or there. Not to long now!😄

Super busy with a move and a big garden reno. Sorry, this is the only update for this week

Ciao! Questo è il mio primo EP su Growdiaries sono davvero entusiasta! Oggi 8 febbraio ho messo a germinare le tre piccole di casa Barney's. i semi sono posizionati all'interno di un vassoio da germinazione sto usando un tubo riscaldante e una centralina InkBird per la temperatura così riesco a mantenere la temperatura sui 22/23°C con un RH %80 Sto usando il metodo del fazzoletto umido, spero che in 24/48 ore la radichetta spunterà dai semi! Oggi 09/2/2023 tutti e i tre semi hanno germinato! Successo del 100% Mi colpisce il vigore della Tropicanna Banana! Invece la gelato mi da l'aria che sarà una bella signorina capricciosa! Come si sul dire ogni riccio un capriccio🤣 Ora i semi sono stati inseriti nel soil per la precisione Ligthmix della BIOBIZZ con un aggiunta di micorizze per la precisione Mycos di Xtreme Gardin! Ho nebulizzato con acqua decantata e ph6.3. 11/02/2023 Ed eccoci con il nuovo aggiornamento del Ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccole sono tutte e tre spuntate neo tempi previsti sono davvero felice per la loro vigorosità! La Tropicanna è la Gelato presentano un piccolo problemino nel staccare l'embrione del seme dai cotilodoni, per darle una piccola mano ho nebulizzato a distanza un pò d'acqua. Ho evitato di provare a toglierlo con una pinzetta per paura di danneggiare le piccole plantule, sono sicuro che riusciranno da sole a risolvere questo piccolo fastidio. Ho deciso di accendere la lampada impostandola all'incirca al 20% (60W) a una distanza di 50cm circa. Non ho un misuratore di PPFD per mia sfortuna sarei stato più preciso nel impostare la potenza e la distanza della lampada😓 ho impostato il classico ciclo di luce 18/6. Ho aggiunto un ventilatore oscillante della Secret jardin per smuovere un pò l'aria. Ora con tanta pazienza e amore aspetteremo la loro crescita! Sono davvero curioso di vedere quanto tempi ci metteranno ad entrare nello stadio di Vegetativa! 12/02/23 Ciao a tutti growers eccoci qui con un nuovo aggiornamento sul cultivo TheBarney's!! Le tre piccole si sono allungate un pochino, ho deciso di fare un piccolo refill con terreno e dare una piccola nebulizzata. Oltre a questo le ho tolte dal box di germinazione e aggiunto un umidificatore collegato a una inkbird per mantenere costante un Rh tra il 70% 80%, pian piano abbassero l'umidità fino a stabilizzarla sui 65% 70% di RH. Per il resto nulla di nuovo... Ci sentiamo prossimamente per nuovi aggiornamenti sulle piccoline rimanete connessi e lasciate mi piace🙏💚 17/02/2023 Ecco un nuovo aggiornamento sul ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccoline pian piano crescono, oggi concludono la prima settimana come plantule! Si sono un pochino allungate e per sostenerle o fatto un piccolo refill di soil e ho irrigato con 15ml a testa di acqua con ph6.3 e Herba power (Ammendante) 0.5ml per Litro d'acqua. Per questo aggiornamento è tutto ci sentiamo prossimamente! 20/02/2023 Eccoci con EP nuovo sul ciclo TheBarney's! Le piccole oggi hanno subito un travaso le ho messe in airpot da 3L e irrigato con acqua ph 6.3, ammendante (herba Power) e un estratto di alghe (Herba Sweed) EC 0.45 Esattamente oggi sono 10 giorni che si trovano nello stadio di Plantula, le prime foglie a 3 punte stanno sbucando speriamo presto di vedere quelle a 5/7 punte e finalmente si inizierà con la fase vegetativa! Tutto sommato le vedo in salute hanno un bel colore, il vigore della Tropicanna e della Gelato mi sta sbalordendo! Per ora è tutto! Al prossimo aggiornamento 💚

Veg week two. Everything seems to be ok at this point.

This week was all about watching Tricombes... Her buds are fattening up nicely, especially since she has received no training really.. She is smelling my balcony up with hints of sexyness everywhere.. She has been an absolute pleasure to grow outdoors.. Only issue this week was humidity..It's really difficult to control outdoors...that has been my only challenge.. I brought her in for a few pics.. And this is what she has turned out to ❤️💚❤️💚

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

This week I low stress trained plant a bit and removed a few leaves that blocks light for lower nodes so it grows more equally! In the end I am moving to my main flowering tent.

Week 10 - both ladies getting fat and frosty. 9L Pot the ladie is getting fat another 1-2 weeks and I will start flush 12L Pot the buds still stretching bud getting fat she still have about 2-3 weeks till flush

New flowering continues to develop on this lady, she seems to be swelling up day by day. Yellowing of the fan leaves has started which usually means it's time to flush, I need to check the trichomes to see how amber they appear before I do just in case the flavour or yield could be effected.

03.07.25. Day 64 Plants are looking good. Due to lack of space and other plants fulling out their relative tents I am going to take these ladies down soon. Even though they can go much longer. Also temperatures are high which is bad as this can lead to terpene being loss. I don't want to but I think it is necessary. Until next time. Peace!

Hello everyone, Been busy this week working around the house so not much I can say. Heres a little video of there growing... See you guys next week

Rough week for the rainbow melon. Giant limb from my maple tree crashed down on my two far pots in the group. The plant survived and should recover but lost a few weeks of growth. It did not get hit as bad as the bubblegum next door and managed to keep one of the main tall stalks. She was looking so nice before the damage and just starting to bush out too. But luckily that branch coming down opened up the sky quite a bit and the other two plants not hit are gonna do even better now and the rainbow melon should recover okay. I almost wanted to replace them but I will learn more from seeing what happens next and comparing to the other unaffected plants. Fed with compost tea, kelp and cal mag mix 700 ppm.

Ok, week started with the 2 freshly potted plants growing a lot, from 20 to 38 cm despite the reduced sunlight due to rain here. Smallest plant was still in the minor pot until Saturday 11 June when I swapped the pot with the 17L one, repeating the same steps I did last week for the other 2, including mycorrhizas rubbing and the rabbit poo fertilizer. Yesterday I removed the lowest level of leaves and small growing that was starting very close to the ground. Personal choice related also to what I have seen in past growing. As of today, June 14, I register the following: plant 1 = 39cm tall, wider (more chubby) leaves up to 8-9 points leaves plant 2 = 38cm tall, slightly narrow leaves, up to 7 points max plant 3 = 19cm tall (?) Are plants 1 and 2 showing 2 different phenotypes for the different width of the leaves and the 7 vs up to 8-9 pointed leaves?

Veg 45 ngày, bloom 56 ngày. Phơi khô 2 tuần, thu hoạch khoảng hơn 200gram khô.

Hi everyone 👊🏻 thanks for checking in 😏, so we have started flowering this week on the bigger tent using the 2 Lumii 720w LEDs, we might or might not run into some hight issues well see… And we have the other 1.2 tent set up for the clones there under 1 Lumii 720w led delivered until I can another one sorted few weeks 🤙🏻 get them under that for a few weeks then get them flowering as well. Keep eyes open for progress 👌🏻

Noch ne Woche steht se Minimum:)

2025/01/07 The little ones are growing diligently. Ami and Amber have developed a CalMag deficiency, so I’ve slightly increased the CalMag dosage. 2025/01/08 Today, I transplanted them into their final 18L pots. Maybe a bit early, but I think it's better too early than too late. 2025/01/11 The ladies are growing great, and the CalMag deficiency seems to be resolved. 😊

Nothing new. The feeding schedule stayed the same just riding through the weeks now. Started to defoliate gently.