Gracias al equipo de Seedsman y XpertNutrients sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Alaskan Do-Si-Dos: Alaskan Do-Si-Dos ha sido desarrollada por expertos como una versión mejorada de la siempre popular variedad Alaskan Purple de Seedsman. La introducción de la genética Do-Si-Dos en la Alaskan Purple ha creado un híbrido índica/sativa que aumenta la potencia y el rendimiento al mismo tiempo que mejora el perfil de sabor y sigue siendo versátil en lo que respecta al cultivo en exterior. La Alaskan Do-Si-Dos está destinada principalmente al cultivo al aire libre y en invernaderos. Las plantas crecen altas y prosperan en climas fríos, templados, cálidos y secos, al mismo tiempo que se desempeñan bien en altitud. Esto no impide que se cultive en interior, pero estas plantas grandes necesitarán mucho espacio. Las plantas muestran una resistencia moderada al moho pero, si se cultivan en interiores, hay que tener en cuenta que son RUIDOSAS, por lo que se beneficiará del uso de filtros de aire de carbón. En exterior, en latitudes septentrionales, la cosecha está prevista para finales de septiembre, mientras que en interior las plantas tardarán entre 8 y 10 semanas en completar la floración. Los rendimientos en exterior son muy altos y pueden superar fácilmente los 750gr/planta, mientras que en interior los rendimientos son elevados, hasta 600gr/m2. Los cogollos maduros tienen una densidad media y mantienen un color verde medio. 🌻🚀 Consigue aqui tus semillas: https://www.seedsman.com/eu-es/alaskan-do-si-dos-feminised-seeds-sman-aldsd-fem 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 2: Gran primera semana, ella ha dado un gran estiron estos días, si sigue así será una gran cosecha. Esta semana se practica defoliacion, poda de ramas bajas y se le agrega Sticky Fingers . La carpa está ocupada al 100%, sigue una floracion explosiva gracias a @Marshydro y @Xpertnutrients y @Trolmaster con esta gran genética 💪. Potencia de la lámpara: 70%

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Royal Gorilla Automatic: Checked out some similar grow diaries and came to the conclusion that she's definitely in shock as she's lagging behind quite a bit. Last week I diagnosed the plant with some deficiencies (mg/mn/calc), possibly caused by the soil's PH being to acidic. To counter this, I started the week by topdressing the plant with some fresh soil, quite a bit of kelp meal (to raise PH and supply the plant with calcium and magnesium) and some worm compost. This time I watered the plant without adding lactobacillus. This seems to have been effective seeing as the plant has restarted growing . Buds are finally starting to dense up, trichomes are finally forming and the plant is starting to look healthy again. Still waiting on the smell though. Added some bone meal at the end of the week to try and get the buds to dense up some more. Solomatic: Plant is looking great, showing no signs of nutrient deficiencies. Her buds are getting quite dense and the trichomes are present and sticky as fuck. She has a nice haze like smell to her, which I really like. Although she isn't showing any signs of deficiencies I did add a tiny bit of kelp meal and worm compost at the start of the week, followed by some bone meal at the end of the week. Normally I wouldn't add fertilizer this close to harvest, but I have a feeling I can get the buds to dense up even more this way. Will probably give her another week and a flush before I harvest her. Stress Killer: The healthiest plant of the bunch, showing absolutely no signs of deficiencies or stress. The sweet smell is present, yet not (yet) overwhelming. Her buds are getting really dense and the trichomes are everywhere and super sticky. Added some fresh soil, some worm compost and a bit of kelp meal at the start of the week, followed by some bone meal at the end of the week. She should normally grow for about 10-12 weeks, so I'm expecting her to fatten up like crazy now. Can't wait to smoke this one.

¡Hola, amigos! Week 12 is here, and my tent has developed a truly intense aroma. Just ten minutes of airing it out, and my entire apartment is infused with its delightful scent. In Week 5 of flowering, I treated them to a revitalizing compost tea, hoping they'll bulk up beautifully. Trichomes are absolutely everywhere, even on the sugar leaves, glistening like tiny crystals. Other than that, it’s just another week of patient waiting. Day81: Almost everything is fine; a couple of the lower leaves have turned slightly yellow. In week six, I’ll start giving them 50% of the recommended amount of Fish-Mix and Heaven by Biobizz, observing how they respond.

Fast Buds CC still has more yellowing in the leaves than I like. I've been ph'ing my water down to 6.0 and giving her extra Recharge (1 tbs/gallon). The bud sites are looking good. I think I'm 2-3 weeks from harvest here. Looking forward to having a taste of Cream Cookies. If she's anything like Girl Scout Cookies, its going to be a hit! 👍

96 días desde la germinacion. 47 días de floración. Ya estamos entrando a las semanas finales de cultivo y las flores van engordando a buen ritmo. Finalmente, en mayor o menor medida, todas las plantas sufrieron de sobre fertilización y veo 2 factores responsables de esto; 1. me excedí en la cantidad de guano de murciélago (alto en fósforo) con el que fertilice el sustrato y 2. en la mitad de la floración se estropearon mis 2 herramientas de medida, el medidor de EC y PH, al calibrarlos el otro día me percate, y como estamos en cuarentena se me hace complicado adquirir nuevos medidores por lo que suspendí los riegos con abono y he estado regando solo con enzimas y Flawless Finish, voy a seguir así hasta finalizar el cultivo. Debo tener ojo con los hongos, donde vivo hay una humedad muy alta que no baja de 60% e incluso ha llegado (según mi termohigrómetro) a 96%. Eso, feliz cultivo a todxs. 👊

Hello everyone 😎 Week 7 of flower for the Orange Sherbet auto from Fast Buds 💥🍊 She grew fast with a beautiful green color,for the nutrient 4ml/L terra bloom & 1ml/L power buds from Plagron Spider Farmer SE-7000 80% Have a nice day 😋

This week I’ve noticed a couple of fungus gnats on site. Not so happy, but I will keep my eye on the situation.

26.7.22 water week5/1

[Feed log] D: 89 - 10L - Si,[0ml],Vega[6ml],Flores [20ml],INPUT; [1.276 EC],[6.1 pH],Ca/Mg[4.8g & 2.8g]- RUNOFF; 3.5L pH [6.3] ,[2.070 EC] Previous irrigation: D85 EC is starting to come down 👍 should help the girl drink better; still looking to lower the EC further

BIG BIG apologies to Heather from fast buds & to Growdiaries & anyone who follows. The past few months have been a massive struggle, not just with temperatures & growing weed but on a personal level. My wife has been very poorly & with covid and everything going on, it's put a massive strain on us all!! I've tries to maintain an active presence on Instagram but that's about all I've physically had time for. I've put this update together today, so far into the grow now it almost seems pointless. I lost my original Mimosa due to high temps & high RH. Moving into the attic at that time of year was a mistake. It has cost me a small fortune to keep things alive. I've had to purchase an air con unit, more fans & just more of everything to be honest. My purple punch is almost ready to harvest, any time within the next couple of days, followed shortly by Bruce Banner & Kosher cake. I wont be winning any awards for this Diary & I feel bad as I was supposed to be show casing what 420 Fast buds has to offer & I've failed...miserably. I hope you can make sense of all the pictures I've included....just a mass photo frenzy over the past few weeks. Thanks to everyone & all your comments. Wishing you all the best. One Love ❤️

Vamos familia con la quinta semana de vida y primera semana de floración de estás Cereal Milk de RoyalQueenSeeds. La temperatura está un poco alta en 27 y la humedad actualmente está en 55% Aplicamos 0.1ml de Flash root Tucán 0.1, Gold joker 0.01, Silver 0.1, Génesis 0.5, de Agrobeta todo. 0.5 blue line B , la base de floración de Agrobeta. La cantidad de agua cada 48h entre riegos no cambia, y por supuesto controlando el Ph entre riegos alrededor de 6.5 - 6.2. Ya se ven bien sanas estas 5 cereal milk, tienen un color y una salud espectacular, vemos si siguen progresando estas próximas semanas así. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Day 72: 600W LED, 18 hours on 6 hours off the same with ventilation. Ferilization is the same except BlackBerry Kush and LSD-25 they are being flushed. Water intake also remains the same 200ml per day. Humidity approx 35 percent. Day 74: BlackBerry Kush and LSD-25 have to be harvested this week Friday so no more water. Colorado Cookies and Northern Light next week so started flushing them. Glueberry OG needs a bit more time.

Targona: 36 days since my little girl sprouted from seeds🌱 Fifth week of vegetation of my Auto Melonade Runtz 🍉🥤🍉 Nutrients: I use Advanced Hydroponics Of Holland nutrients - three basic components, still according to the table for growth and flowering, I only change the dosage according to the plant phase 💓 - - Dutch fertilizer Formula 1 Grow - supplies the plant with substances necessary for the perfect development of roots, stem and leaves; intended for the growth phase 🌾 - Dutch fertilizer Formula 2 Bloom - contains a large amount of nutrients necessary for rapid growth and fruit development, supplies the plant with energy; intended for the flowering phase 🌸🌿 - Dutch fertilizer Formula 3 Micro - increases oxygen intake, improves plant immunity, ensures better absorption of nutrients; intended for the growth and flowering phase 🌴 --------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- ------ Plagron Power Roots - Root Stimulator Plagron Roots is a biological root stimulator that supports the formation of the root system. I use it until the fifth week of growth 🍃🍃 - I fertilize for the last time in the fifth week of plant growth - this week I fertilize for the last time. -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- -------- BioBizz Calmag - The special Calmag supplement was designed for professional and hobby growers who need to supply calcium and magnesium in organic quality to their plants in the long term or immediately. The 100% organic 💩💩 and certified BioBizz Calmag product is made of calcium carbonate and magnesium sulfate supplemented with humic acid. -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- -------- BioBizz Bio pH - is an organic pH regulator. An aqueous solution of citric acid, which occurs naturally in citrus fruits 🍋🍋 ---------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- ------- During the flowering period I add stimulants: - JUNGLE X Environ is a highly effective complex preparation for stimulating flower formation. 🌸🏵️ - Bud Candy - carbohydrates for my girls 🍭🍭🍭 General: Auto Melonade Runtz 🍉🥤🍉 - The plant looks good, the side branches have grown to the height of the main stem, as if I were topping - but I didn't. I basically only do defilia and LST for autoflowers. Unfortunately, the girl reacted to the change in fertilizer dosage during the flowering period and brown spots appeared on a few leaves, fortunately there are really not many of them 🍂. It reminds me of a magnesium deficiency, but it is the only plant that has reacted like this so far. I will try to flush it with Terra Aquatica FlashClean 💦💦 Training: This week I performed LST on the adult young branches by attaching them to the sides of the pot with string, like the others. I also did more defoliation this week to allow light to reach the buds 💚🌞🌞 Light: Mars Hydro TS1000 The plants are responding effectively and the light is technically very well managed - I try to have 50 cm between the light and the plants, so I move it up regularly 💡💡💡 Thanks for the likes :) See you soon 😍😍

Welcome to Flower Week 4 of Sensi Seeds Mandarine Jam I'm excited to share my grow journey with you from my Sensi Seeds Project . It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this Project , I’ve chosen the Feminized Photo Strain Mandarine Jam: Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Sensi Seeds • 💧Strain Info : 20-23% • ⏳ Flowering Time: 7-8weeks

The time has come, here we are into the first couple of days of flowering, slightly upset because I can’t look at them during the day and their light cycle runs at night but I have to get used to, I used to spend hours staring at them. My Gf told me to get for a second into the feeling of the plants and imagine this human look at me for hours 🤣🤣 I have to admit that would be slightly creepy and they don’t know yet that I’ll chop them down and smoke ☠️ Enjoy fellow growers ☮️✌️🏼😎

She’s growing

Well, looks like autumn is here, so I’m starting the flush. The next waterings will be plain water at 260 ppm — pretty much the lowest I can get without extra cost. Upd: I was trying to understand the plant through the readings, but due to my lack of experience, I still kept bouncing back and forth with the ppm. That’s definitely not ideal. Next time I’ll try to rely on both experience and the meters.