Love this plant

Week 5! All those pic are from the same day. First pic is before transplanted in 11 liter pot ( I took off the weakest plant cause just 10 fit in my box) the soil is made of light mix and warm casting but I top dress with: 70/30 of 444 and 284 - 1 Tbsp per gallon Rock dust -1Tbsp per gallon I sprinkle the root ball with mycorrhiza and water with compost the of warm casting and molasses brew for 24 hours. Then I put the scrog net and bend all the plant under it, I use the cropping technique cause most of the plant were quite strong as u can see from the pic. Ps: don’t mind about the sound of the first video I’ve just been unlucky cause they pass in front of my house while I was make the video😂

Heya!

I’m overjoyed with the phenos this strain is producing, strong vibrant purples with some serious flavour profiles! Scent Profiles we have: Candy Lemon Sherbet 🍬🍋 Sweet & Piney Diesel 🍭🌲⛽️ Sweet & Tangy Tropical Punch 🏝️🥊 Alongside this, these beauties are the frostiest and the most insanely dense koala looking nugs I’ve ever produced!

I kept a close eye on defoliation. But it isn't easy now. Hopefully, she gets a huge collar.

Update – Frisian Dew Trim Hash Ich habe den Trim aus diesem Outdoor-Run mit der Eiswasser-Methode zu Bubble Hash verarbeitet, inspiriert von Frenchy Cannoli. Das Material war nicht besonders gut – viele größere Blätter mit wenig bis kein Harz – trotzdem ist gut was rausgekommen. Der Großteil kam aus den 73 und 25 Micron Bags, in 120/160 war kaum etwas. Mit längeren Waschgängen wäre evtl. noch mehr gegangen, aber nach ein paar Stunden hat es mir gereicht. Ich habe das Material getrocknet und zu kleinen "Temple Balls" gepresst. Update – Frisian Dew Trim Hash I processed the trim from this outdoor run into bubble hash using the ice water method, inspired by Frenchy Cannoli. The material wasn’t great – quite a few larger leaves with little to no resin – but still yielded a decent amount. Most of it came from the 73 and 25 micron bags, while 120/160 had very little. Could’ve probably pushed it further with longer washes, but after a few hours I called it. I dried the material and pressed it into small “temple balls.”

(ÚLTIMO DÍA Y COSECHA DESDE LA SEMANA 10// LAST DAY AND HARVEST SINCE WEEK 10❗) Es una cepa que queda en mi podio principal, un crecimiento robusto pero vigoroso, es una buena comedora de alimentos. La he curado por par de semanas y ese olor exquisito a crema dulce es muy tentador, el humo se siente parecido solo que con notas cítricas y fondo terroso. Su pegada es Intesa y duradera; comienza con un poco de energía y pensamientos ágiles y termina con un golpe narcótico. Gracias como siempre a la gente de fast bud por proveerme de estas y otras semillas que he estado documentado por este medio y mi instagram @stickyfingah420.

Sprouted from soil after 3 days! This diary will cover the complete growth cycle, seed to harvest, of this photoperiod strain from RQS, including drying, trimming and weighing. I’m planting this seed together with some autoflowers that just entered in the flowering stage. The ideea is to fill the tent as much as possible since the autoflowers gonna be chopped by the time this pheno will be ready to switch from veg to flower.

I started these seeds on Friday, January 29, 2021. Planted them on Sunday, January 31st in Happy Frog soil in a manure pot. I've struggled with keeping the temp below 80F while keeping the humidity up. It was around 57%. I had to turn my exhaust fan on medium and the temp is currently 75.7F and the humidity is at 49%. This is with 2 cool mist humidifiers in a 2X4 foot tent. I do have 2 other small fans blowing as well. One inside and one at the intake vent outside the tent. This is my first grow so any advice will be greatly appreciated!! I'll post the end of week one pics later this weekend!

ladies and gentlemen Welcome to peaky house gardens We begin to rinse the roots non-stop since this girl has also gone over with feedings.....but no problem...we will eliminate any residue with a simple balanced pH 😉👩‍🌾🏼

So i had to take all my plants inside because i found bud rot on 2 of them & the weather wasn’t going to get any better, had to transform my bedroom into a grow room😂 & i have 2 more plants which i am going to finish next to a window.. The smaller plant to the right is a Northern light by zamnesiaseeds that has a seperate diary if you are interested! I really hope the bud rot doesn’t spread anymore & if anyone has any tips or tricks for that they are always welcome!

I top dressed worm castings mix with more organic soil and and gave the teas ones a week other then that a I gave them just water with 3ml silica 5ml cal-mag 10ml fish’s sh!tt.

Everything is filling up the canopy nicely so I flipped to flower (10/19/18) so they don’t get to out of control during the first couple weeks as they like to stretch. Will be doing a slight Lollipopping in the next day or 2 and will have to add a second layer of trellis either this week or next.

Day 1 beginning of wk 3 flower fed the girls up this morning 4.5 ltr phostrogen to all but bubblegum #1 she gets fed 10ltrs of bud burst they are starting to smell so good 3 strains iv never grown before or even smoked lol exciting stuff 5-6 more weeks to go

With great joy I will start my second season growing cannabis. I hope to learn from some small mistakes from the first season where I was surprised by my performance as a first-time sailor cultivating the BlueDream strain. This season I left the 4 seeds of GorillaGlue 36hrs in a pot of water to break the dormancy. After that I used the napkin technique for more 42 hrs. So I put each one in a 5-gallon airpot, as they are automatic and go to harvest in the same pot. After 24hrs in the vase the first 2 little leaves came out. I made a homemade dome with a 2-gallon water bottle, cutting it into strips and lining it with plastic with some holes to keep the humidity high during this initial phase. We entered the first week of cultivation and unfortunately due to an oversight I got confused in the fertilizer table and clearly the dreaded overfert happened. I did a watering only with water to try to remove the excess fertilizer let's hope it works.

Bene bene scusate il ritardo 😌 di un giorno come nell' altro diario.. purtroppo ho problemi in famiglia con mia nonna che nn sta molto bene e non ci sto molto con la testa e nn riesco a stare dietro come meriterebbero l attenzione massima tutti i progetti. Anche nelle descrizioni , considerazioni, opinioni , mi piacerebbe avere più tempo x farlo x descrivere davvero bene come le ragazze stanno esplodendo di vita ! Apparte questo velocemnte posso dire che la ragazza che sta crescendo con un soil dinamico sinergico creato con micorizia e funghi benefici, melassa e comunque tutto completamento organico, della linea di Bio Tabs , sta crescendo davvero bene , un verde intenso sintomo di prosperità, ho solo aggiunto 3 ml di pk bio , ma 😅 potevo anche evitarlo dato che stava già benone!! E si vede nelle foto non c'è nulla che posso dire di negativo su di lei per ora ! Mentre la secondo ragazza , io nn avendo mai usato il nutrimento della linea RQS, probabilmente sono stato un po' leggero con i nutrienti e si vede che è andata in carenza di calcio e magnesio . Ora ho provveduto ad aggiungere al nutrimento solito che gli do, quindi vediamo come va!! 🙏 Ringrazio come al solito la luce fantastica che fa prosperare le mie piante come fosse un ☀️ in miniatura!!! Mars hydro la migliore luce che posso consigliare a tutti se avete un grow box piccolo come il mio o cmq anche più grande da un metro x metro e altro 180 cm o 200 cm sarebbe l ideale.. ma 😄 purtroppo ora nn posso permetermela quindi va bene così ! Ringrazio RQS dei semi spettacolari che consiglio a tutti! Buon 420 a tutti! 🐱😽💪👊🧙‍♂️🌱🌿🌲💨

02 Feb 2022 Update: I noticed a strange chromatic coloring on some leaves of the "older" plants, a couple of the smaller plants have small brown spots on the leaves ... i also noticed that the grow tent is quite hot and the ground is quite dry, could be that the watering maybe is not enough, so from today i'll give a bit more water. I didn't expect that kind of temp from a led, adjusting the watering should goes better. Light regime ☀️21/3🌑 temp ☀️22/32 🌑 18.5/22 humidity 48% The lamp is till running it at 100% of his power but I just moved the lamp up to 70cm from the ground for more air flow and maybe the leds where to near the leafs, this why the chromed coloring on leafs? 03 Feb 2022 Update: Light regime ☀️21/3🌑 temp ☀️24/28 🌑 18.5/24 Plants looks already more happy now!!! soon photo/video update 04 Feb2022 Update: Little check and evrething looks great now, the new distance of the lamp did the magic , temperature is also much much better and stable, all plants look bit happyer now 😁 Light regime ☀️21/3🌑 temp ☀️22/26 🌑 20/18 humidity 51% 07 Feb 2022 Update: With a Lamp distance of 70cm at 100% is going really good, temperature is right and the earth in the pots also stays moist longer, the new leaves on all plants are doing well and the two "older" plants are doing a lot of side arms. In the last couple of days I have been noticing an increase in the speed of growth. The little BlackBerry Banana is staying small but is making new leaves that look healthier than the plant was born, I wait another week before deciding what to do but most likely I will pull her out of the tent and she will grow as an outdoor plat looking out the window 😂 Light regime ☀️21/3🌑 temp ☀️22/26.9 🌑 19.5/22 humidity 59% 08 Feb 2022 Update: After a little thinking i decided and Ijust moved the small BlackBerry Banana plant out the tent for a "Free" grow ☃️🌈🌤️ 😅😅 More air/co2 space and lamp ☀️ for the other 8 plants. Sometimes have to do wha need to be done.

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Semana 3 de crecimiento y parece que todo va un poco mejor. Las plantas tenían demasiada luz porque los leds estaban a muy poca distancia,. Creo que una de las plantas se llegó a quemar,¿Alguien lo puede confirmar? es la primera vez que lo veo. Aunque parece que poco a poco se va recuperando. Desde que las trasplanté sólo he regado un par de veces. Ahora he aumentado la distancia de la luz y espero que crezcan más fuertes. A partir de ahora empezaré con Top Veg. Por cierto! La AK que tenía el caparazón de la semilla pegado, ahí sigue. Y creo que es la que mejor va! Saludos y buenos humos!

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.