A brown leaf revealed the moldy core of the bud. Based on this sign, I harvested most of the plant. otherwise the Plant did grow well and has some terps leaning to the sour, limone side. had to throw away about 8G modly stuff from main colar. Seems to be about 30-40g left without mold.

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Hey everyone 😃. The lady grows exactly as she should 😍. She looks beautiful and her growth is strong 👍. I think that I will pot in 11 liters in the next few days. Until then, I wish you lots of fun and all the best 😊. You can buy this Strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Type: Herz Og ☝️🏼 Genetics: Larry OG X Kosher Kush Indica 60 % / Sativa 40 % 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Growing Nicely.... Starting to Show Sex Fimmed plants

Wow she's grown 24cm this week. I'm getting excited about her! I think she's looking to be a fab plant. Doing well in her fabric pot.

Last week of flower, I flushed during the last 4 days, I didn't do big flushes I simply water the plants with plain water, last 3 days of complete darkness. I think that next time I will complete the flush and then give 3 days of complete darkness, the fact that the plant is not receiving light makes flushing harder because the plant drinks less water. During the last 3 days, the humidity was always greater than 50% but the plants didn't seem affected. Before I started the flush the pant was only receiving 8h of light. I'm currently drying the plants, the temperature fluctuates between 17 and 19 degrees, I start with 65% humidity and I reduce 1% of humidity every day. I Do a 14 day dry DAY 134 PH - 6.02 Solution Temp - 16.9 PPM-1955 Watering Volume per plant - 4L DAY 136 - Molasses PH - 5.92 Solution Temp - 15.2 PPM-300 Watering Volume per plant - 4L

My Girls stared Flowers I'm really excited I can't for all those Flowers OG Kush its at Really tall she is 38 inches After 52 days on Veg from the seeds .the root makers Make really big Differentnt when is about Root sistem the people know about Cannabis Plants they know the root sistem is everything's for the every Kind the Plant if you star you Plants whit good healthy and root sistem You Grow Veg amazin something you never see it.. You can look up in one of the moat Famous weed Maganzine HIGH TIMES They said you wanna Big Yield? Prevent you don't grow Root bound Sistem .. the Root Makers Make Nice root sistem whit the Air Pruning sistem .. Sorry for my Englis it not perfect but I hope can understand

Week 3 (1-7 to 7-7) 1-7 Temps: 22.2 to 26 degrees Humidity: 50% to 70% 2-7 Temps: 22.2 to 25.2 degrees Humidity: 49% to 73% Watering: #1: 92 ml. #2: 96 ml. PH: 5.8 3-7 Temps: 21.8 to 25.3 degrees Humidity: 52% to 78% 4-7 Temps: 22.2 to 26 degrees Humidity: 36% to 64% 5-7 Temps: 19.7 to 24.5 degrees Humidity: 45% to 62% Watering: Both 1500 ml. I transplanted the girls in the early morning to 18L AutoPots. I use the airbases with an airdome, and a airstone connected to an airpump. As for the soil i use Plagron Coco-Perlite 70/30. After i transplanted them i moved them into the 100x100x180cm tent. The light is at 40% strength with a distance of 60 cm. Im happy they are finally transplanted into the AutoPots, My plan was to do this way sooner but i forgot to buy the root disks. So i had to wait till they arrived, and with the legalization in Germany there is a huge delivery time. 6-7 Temps: 18.8 to 25 degrees Humidity: 41% to 64% 7-7 Temps: 18.8 to 25.5 degrees Humidity: 44% to 57%

huge heads on all plants I’m going to say 100 colas in this tent. Yes 100. Not one nook or cranny isn’t filled with a big ole branch. Proud of my scrog. About to get a mountain of hash of these babies. Stinky fruit peel/ straight gas/ lil gmo not really to spicy. More funk and gas than anything else. Long trichromes indicated a good washing strains! I can’t wait to process!

Day 66 Tops harvesting day, I will not hit the harvest button now cause my harvast its in phases, so I cut the tops first, bottoms and main colas base keep ripening for one more week. The video (with sound) its a density test I invent after smoke this scissor hash hahaha (STFU) 😂😎

Hi all, Grow area updates: So I hit the switch and flipped the light to 12/12 to start week 1 of flower for the master kush. And also raised the scrog net and defoliate a bunch. Blue dream auto: Week 4 flower God her first real good defoliation and and a lollipop on the under the canopy. As you can from the pics. The bud sites are plenty. Plant def got biggger then what I thought it had to be tucked one more good time under the net ended up taking up space where another plant woulda be. Literally had to leave a couple branches still standing do to nowhere for them to go and I’m almost definite they will need assistance standing here in a bit. She literally takes have the flower area by herself. I’m stoked about that. The last pic from the web cam shows about how much I took from each branch For defoliation. Ppm at 900 Master kush photo: 1st week of flower She got pretty y’all over the past week the extra nitrogen grow really helped her have a Maher growth spirt. It got a lil hot this week so some minor leaf curling but nothing major. The new growth coming in looks perfectly fine. She responded well to the femming. So I went ahead and topped all the tops on her and she might get one more at the end of this week. She also got re-tucked under the net. Ppm at about 750. As always #StayKited!

Good week, she was grown a lot and seems to have nice bulbs

A few had issues with the 24 hrs light sa few plants were getting yellow tips resembling light burn. So I added a teaspoon of Epsom salt and coffee grounds. Looks like the plants have bounced back. That’s a sigh of relief!

Begining of the week, one of them is still struggling. I am going to keep her for now. 1ml/4l bio grow start with small dose, water about 3l every 2 days and spray the top soil when dry

Week 4 come along and lady's doing pretty well I keep do lst every 2 days and just feed them with water willing to use nutrients soon Day 25 I just start give them grow and calmag plantvare almost ready for flowering

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

I just love opening the tent to this lady each morning! This grow will definitely sit high on my list of favorites! I am still on the transition feed recipe and slowly lowering the Grow Big while increasing the Tiger Bloom. I love to sit and watch the soil move and breath and take notice of all of the tiny creatures within it making my plant so happy and healthy! At this point, I am pulling a leaf or two here and there as they shadow buds or block airflow, but she really has grown a great structure and has a nice spread so not much defol is needed!

Heiiii boys and girls This baby gorila she beacome a litlle purple shes very nice😎😎😎😎😎

There are two clearly differentiated phenotypes, but they are all beautiful plants.

#seedsman420growoff and #SeedsmanSeeds 📆 Week 13, 20-26 July 2024 20-26 July - Observed and let the plant grow. 📑 This has been another good week for the Pineapple OG! Although it may appear the flowers are not growing in this stage, be assured they are. It takes patience not to cut too early, one has to let the plant do the talking when it comes to maturity. I can’t imagine growing one for 3 months or more and then not have the discipline to allow it to fully mature before harvest. Looking like at least a couple of more weeks to go until finish. 🍶 23 July nutrient solution changed 🍽️ 23 July feeding schedule updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 2.3 at 74 degree F 🔆 Light power at 75%, DLI 45 canopy coverage at 12hrs 😤 Using General Hydroponics, HGC728040, Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, 320 GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.