It was a total of 15 day break. During this time, there were two defoliations, 4 washes, one mesh tension. Also one fertilizer change and VooDoo Juice Plus supplement (see photo). Now there will be a translation 12/12 ... Let's see their potential!

Nothing much to say about my grow this week. Gave he a flush with pH 6.0 to kick off the week. Day 86..... Gave her a feeding today a whole gallon. Ive been doing some research and maybe I'm feeding my plants a little too much nutrients. So from now on I will be feeding a lot less and the next day I will feed just plain water. So my plants will get nutrients every 3 or 4 days. I also bought a few advanced nutrients supplements which I'll be experimenting with. Day 87... Gave her a feeding today of advanced nutrients Nirvana and voodoo juice and pH to 5.9. Day 88.....gave her a 2l feeding today of nutrients. Also defoliated some of her big fan leaves.

Ya en la recta final familia, están apuntito, solo unos días más. Nuestras lemon kush ya recibieron su lavado de raíces , están sin productos ya solo AGUA. Controlamos de todas formas el Ph igual y que no baje por debajo de 6,2. Bestiales estás flores , un olor muy característico con tonalidades cítricas que recuerdan al limón. Todo un clásico en verdad. Estos ejemplares carecen de brazos laterales, son óptimas para un SOG desde semilla, pudiendo llenar 16 plantas en metro cuadrado.

Well, this strain is surely flowering for a long time, it's still stretching. I wonder if it will stop stretching and start fattening the buds this week... Anyhow, one of the reasons why I don't defoliate much is because the plant does that by itself. When the lower leaves receive almost no light (because all the light is blocked by the thick growing canopy) they start to send their nutrients to the top. When they are donez they just fall off on their own. You see, leaves are like solar panels AND nutrient reserves! Just make sure this process is slow and the leaves that receive light are still very healthy and green. If many leaves are falling or if they fall really fast you gotta make sure is not a deficiency or nutrient lockout! ... Again just water your plant with bloom formula (and a bit of calmag) to an EC that allows you to maintain the plant heathly and the runoff not to high (in my case 1mS/cm). Remember to alternate nutrients and pHd tap water. That's pretty much all left to do from here to harvest. Obviously if you see something wrong try to correct it. Day 66 update. I dropped something on my plant. It bended one branch very badly and severed some leaves and a bud :( Well, accidents happen. Luckily cannabis is a very very resilient plant, one might be surprised at how much this plants can take. Anyhow, taped everything together loosely, pulled the most bent branches upwards with a thread and I will wait for it to heal... If everything goes well, this branches should be even stronger than the others. Let's hope that's my fate! Update day 69. Although I have been feeding with 1.0 mS/cm once, then pHd water then feed again, the run off from today measured 3.0 mS/cm ! It's climbing still. I flushed again, until the runoff was at 1.5 mS/cm. I think I understand what happened, my theory is that the plant needs a lot more water now, but not as many more nutrients. So it takes the 2.5 daily liters of water, but it might only eat the nutrients in 1lt of water, so the rest stays on the roots and accumulates, raising the EC of the soil. So far, by checking EC on the soil once every week or two I have avoided nutrient toxicity and lockout. I think there are two options, either lowering the concentration of nutrients I feed it (so 2.5 lts a day will contain less dissolved nutrients), or spacing out the feedings with more intermediate waterings of plain water. I think I am going to go with the former, next week I will try feeding an EC of 0.8 mS/cm on 3L then tap water and so on from next week on. I prefer to underfeed than to overfeed, which is what I recommend for other boobs, it's better to have some yield than to risk killing the plant. We will get better with time...

The overall cycle had to deal with alot of heat issues and lighting so what they did product is certainly top quality flowers just short on there stretch period so will run again to make a certain opinion but as of now no hermis and all seeds flowered apart from one tiny plant 10 girls all to harvest shows stable genicitic traits from these girls also , height , bud structure colour shape smell all seem to be closer to a match of each other

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Hi everyone :-) It has developed really well so far :-). Next week she will be put in the flower tent and before that cuttings will be taken :-) It was poured twice with 1 liter each this week. Otherwise everything was cleaned and cleaned. Have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy This Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Strain Gelato clone from mother (Zamnesia ) ☝️ Genetics: Wedding Cake x Gelato x Gelato 33 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Cool

No deficiencies thus far adding some molasses each feeding 1 tbls per gal water

Hi everyone, here’s the update for this week along with some beautiful videos... 😉 Soil-Organic-LST Day 78~84 The autumn colour effect is more visible.This week, I topped up my soil with Tea leaves fertilizer (25g) and bone meal (25g).I love growing organic.The buds are looked like what they will become when they are growing in nature.I’ve already used my potting mixed for my last grow.This one is even better than the last potting.But I still want to test and know each and every of the NPK and other micro nutrient ratio.So still need to learn alot.No overdose, only got what is in the pot.But need to top dressing.Love those buds’ colour very much... 😊 Soil RO water Amino power - 1ml/L Baking soda - 0.25tsp/gallon pH-6.0 ppm-60 Run off pH-6.8 ppm-900 Soil Potting Mixed Recipe -Coco peat: 30% -Soil Compost: 20% (Soil,Sand,Cow manure,Ash) -Bone meal: 10% -Earthworm fertilizer: 10% -Perlite: 15% -Marble stone: 5% -Crash egg shell: 3% -Chicken manure: 3% -Banana peels: 2% -Gypsum: 2% Coco-Inorganic-ScrOG Day 78~84 I increased my Bloom and Micro feed and cut of Grow.The leaves are becoming lighter in green colour than before.It was right about cutting nute for one week.I will also stop feeding with Cal-Mag plus for a while.Her buds are totally different from Soil girl.Not so many pistils but denser than soil girl.For this Coco girl, I still need to learn the right concentration nutrient amount for each growing stage.Here’s my watering and other details... Coco RO water Bloom- 3.0ml/L Micro- 3.0ml/L Bud Candy- 0.5ml/L B52-1.0ml/L pH-6.5 ppm-1100 Run off pH-6.3 ppm-1000 Coco potting mixed recipe Coco peat : 70% Perlite : 30% Transplanted from 1gallon coco/soil mixed pot at Day-42. Scrog size Area : 1ft x 1ft (30cm x 30cm) Hole size : 2” (5 cm) Material : iron welded by four steel pillars. Height from base: 6” (15cm) Stay tune friends.Happy growing to you all... ✌️ 🇲🇲

Para ser la primera vez que cultivo no puedo quejarme, pero si alguien me pudiese ayudar

Bien pues os presento el nuevo cultivo, 5 variedades de GB Strains de la mano de GB The Green Brand. Son unas Tropicanna Cookies, Apple Friter, Bannana Wafflez, Grand Daddy Purple y Miracle Alien Cookies. Les haremos transplante y la maceta definitiva sera de 7L voy a usar la tierra de marca Gramoflor en concreto la Gramomed es una tierra menos compacta, mas aireada y con hongos beneficiosos. Por ahora llevamos unas 16 horas desde que empezamos a germinar, pronto metere actualizacion de estado :D 05/04/22 -- Actualizacion de estado: Bien pues he subido mas fotos y os explico: Las mas grandes se empezaron a germinar el 22/03/22 y las mas peques 1 semana despues, el dia 29/03/22 Las GDP (grand daddy purple) no salieron y las descarte. Creo que pasaron mas frio que las demas y fue fallo mio. -- Actualizacion 11/04/22 Las mas grandes empiezo ya a contar 1º semana de crecimiento a partir de este lunes 11/04/22 y en 2 semanas maximo transplantamos a 7L definitivas

This plant is great easy to grow and the buds are covered in crystals. Another week and no issue and the ladie is getting fat and frosty. Looking forward to smoke this green monster

1/22/2024 - Day 22 veg: today is the 1st day of week 4, and every is going well. Lightly watered just to keep the top soil moist, but my moisture level further down is still good. She is showing some very minor tip burn, but nothing I'm concerned about. 1/27/2024 - Day 27: was out of town the last few days, and she is definitely starting to flower already. Seeing some very minor tip burn, but other than that she appears healthy. Not as big as I would have like to see her get before flowering, but it looks like the issue with the foiler spray stunted her a bit.

First proper feed, both in the tank and spraying the leaves

hey all )) no words she is a monster )))) from tonirrow instart to flash! trichoms are cloudy and milky already so she will be ready in a week or so. flashing with flora kleen. her aroma is wonderfull so sweet smell i an in love <3

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.