привет ребята,вот срезал мой куст, вроде не плохо вышло?! посмотрим сколько будет весить когда высохнут )))) амнезия мой любимый сорт,как только высохнут отпишусь какой будет результат ))) 30,06,2021 вот и результат почти 90 грамм,на весах 40 грамм но это моя доля урожая ,я выращиваю в месте с другом так что моя половина 40 грамм сухих шишек и мы еще и покурили пока шишки подсохли, так что приблизительно у меня получилось 85-90 грамм сухих шишек,шишки выросли толстыми но они не плотные,потому и такой результат, посмотрите мой апельсин у него хорошие плотные шишки , он начал цвести в 60 дней , растение без проблем,кто не любит ждать этот сорт не для него ))) 09,07,2021 мой урожай пересох, +35,3 с было очень жарко и я не мог контролировать температуру (( я ожидал результат лучше но не вышло, надеюсь дальше все нормализуется

Frosting up and looking great . Not doing much to her aside from a little defol here and there . Few more weeeks to go

Still running the same watering only when necessary..just flushed yesterday and upped nutes to 1/2 strength so we'll see how she reacts. Everything else is looking great. Room is getting a lil hot in the mornings but I got a/c blowing cool air so should be ok! Excited to serve her flower she's looking nice n bushy!

So I have heard that strain is with some problem in genetics. She is growing up but with some problems on the leafy. I’m going to feed her and I see what happens

Week 12 – Frost Incoming & Finding the Peak ❄️🔥 Hey Muchachos, welcome to Week 12 – and things are getting serious now. The girls are deep into bloom, stacking fast, frosting up, and showing their full potential. This week I made an important adjustment: I reduced the LED power from 100% down to 80%. The tops were getting very bright and I could see the limits of the setup approaching. At 80%, the canopy looks perfectly balanced — honestly, I think this is the true peak of this tent. Up to now nobody reached this level in this setup… except the Princess. She’s pushing harder than anything I’ve seen before in here. The buds are building beautifully — long spears, dense internodes, and fresh white pistils everywhere. The first layer of frost is coming in strong, and the smell is starting to speak up: sweet, tangy, a bit funky, very promising. I’m also observing some nitrogen movement in the lower leaves. Could be natural N-mobility in mid-flower, could be a slightly reduced N level in the soil — but right now I’m not worried. The plants look healthy and focused on bud production, so I’m letting them do their thing. Airflow is perfect, the canopy is stable, and every top is getting clean light. This is the phase where they start packing on weight day by day, and you can literally watch the buds change every morning. Stay tuned, Muchachos – the frost season just kicked in. OnlyBuds! ❄️🌿🔥

Vamos familia, actualizamos la sexta semana de floración de estas Purple OG kush de DutchFem. Y es que no veas cómo van progresando las flores y qué color que sanas que se ven. Llevo aplicando una semana engordacogollos y empiezan a engordar bien. Ya empezamos la recta final, ya vamos viendo cómo avanza y esperamos que no surjan problemas de última hora. Hasta aquí todo bien muy contento con el resultado del proceso hasta ahora. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/55% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Este es el avance finalizando la 3ra semana, tienen 21 días, ahora les haré una defoliación y una poda de bajos, van maravillosas las Gorilla Banana de BSF Seeds. Planeo pasarlas a floración el día 31 para cerrar con 30 días de vegetación. Saludos @farmer.skr 🤙

Nice start flowering time. Need sunny weather now. Left flower has bigger blooms, it is nice. Edit: The left flower goes faster.. Start nutrients Plagron Green Sensation and Royal Sugar for maximum blooming now.

🇩🇪 Zum trocknen habe ich die Pflanze in drei Teile geteilt und sie leicht vorgetrimmt (Fanleafs ab) an Kleiderbügeln im Zelt aufgehangen. 13 Tage bei 62% Luftfeuchtigkeit und 23 Grad 🇺🇸 To dry, I divided the plant into three parts and lightly pre-trimmed it (removing fan leaves), then hung it on hangers in the tent. It dried for 13 days at 62% humidity and 23°C. 🇪🇸 Para secar, dividí la planta en tres partes y la pre-podé ligeramente (eliminando las hojas grandes), luego la colgué en perchas en la tienda. Se secó durante 13 días a 62% de humedad y 23°C.

Day 56 There's only 9 plants left on the microdrip getting straight full tilt and slf100, the rest are being flushed using the water wand to give the longer running strains enough time to mature. The Polar Vortex 6's , trop juice 1, garlicane 2, garlicane 5, Polar vortex 4's, platinum silk and platinum gushers are gunna come down this week.

Started today second week (20/05). Very pleased with how it grew the first week. The plant appears healthy despite the excessive lengthening that caused its release due to the too much weight of the leaves. Although it has a fan pointing at it, I still expect it to reinforce the stem to remove the support. Update: Very strong stem. 20/05: Root Complex (3.5ml/700ml) + TNT Complex (3.5ml/700ml) --> Final EC 625 24/05: Root Complex (3.5ml/700ml) + TNT Complex (1ml/700ml) --> Final EC 325 27/05: Coming home after two days i found my baby plant that now isn't just a baby! Beautiful and strong! I've noticed only a small spot in a leaf, highlighted in the video; and a strange skin around the stem, highlighted in the other video.

I have made this week as it’s the 4 week mark (28 days) I’ve made a video to show the progress she has made! This is my favourite baby girl! She has shown so much vigor from the beginning! I have only had to adjust the ties this week was considering another top but I won’t as I may not have space! I’ve added a picture of the base of my Airpots and I’m proud to say the roots are all coming through nice and thick (photo example) I have also added my ppm results now and am going to be filtering my water so I lose the initial 200+ in my water already! I will 12-12 when she hits 6 weeks! Hope you enjoy buddies!

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Vaporized on plant a solution based on tomato leaves extract…aphids prevention… Prepared the watering system: Blumat Classic XL for few day’s autonomy. Added light Mix Plagron and super guano(TopCrop) in the pot. Added aromatic plants, repelling species around the culture: mint and basil against whitefly , red spider mit, thrips, aphids, ants.

Transplanted em outside in the ground week 6 they got swamped on week 7 and got severely over watered week 8 I put em in new 45 gallon fabric pots and buried them a bit deeper to help root development they look better today then they do in the video....I'm a newb so knew nothing about ph and the 45 gallon pots have a ph of 8 very alkaline so there now not absorbing nutrient....bought ph down and going to start adding it to water and nutes apparently rain water has a low ph and it's raining again all week....hopefully it helps until I'm able to give them ph down....should be hard for them to get over watered in 45 gal pots...looking like a failed harvest

4 clones da minha penúltima colheita Realizei hoje as podas das pipocas q não receberiam luz suficiente, bem como a desfolha para induzir o transporte de carboidratos para o desenvolvimento das flores. Faço essa última poda / desfolha com 21 dias de floração pois nessa fase o desenvolvimento celular cai e aumento o alongamento celular, por conta disso nesse período a planta para de crescer e começa a "encorpar"

Начало 2 недели, активно набираем зеленую массу и 3 пару листьев. Использую базу в 50% от предполагаемой схемы полива от advanced nutrients. Полив со шприца 50 мл под корень. Дренаж пока отсутствует.

Fenohunt win?

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.