All good .. watering every 3-4 days ..light on 100 % power when i see a problem a raise up on 55 cm ..now is 40 cm from plants

week three flower everything looks fine so far :D eight days after defoliation I water them with 1.5l every 48h the light I use was set to 80% and it hangs 80cm away from the tops gelato 1 threw some balls, but I removed them as soon as I saw them, I'll keep watching it!

Dane, We all should help one another. Human beings are like that. We should live by each other’s happiness - not by each other’s misery. We don’t want to hate and despise one another, share the Joint. And mother earth is rich and can provide for everyone. We can Grow enough Happiness, In this paradise, there is room for everyone. We only exist to bring joy into the world and The way of life can be free and beautiful, but we have lost the way. Grow High and Give the world A smile. At the end we own nothing more then all our memories, lets make them amazing for everyone, nothing to loose only everything to win. A last kiss goodby, a second one, softer and long as a sign, that you are woth it. That Everyone worth who loved and give. Enought Hippie Talk, now have a nice day and an even better grow, thx for watching by. ((From Seed 🌱 week report: i love the "banana split" in the leafes

Continúan floreciendo bien, estan preciosas. Las he deshojado recientemente

600 watt Kingled & 400 watt high pressure sodium

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Cold most of the week. I ran lights 24hrs last few days so temps wouldn't dip below 60. Punch 3.0 may be showing a little stress from all of it. Looking good so far. Video is from Saturday - I normally use the vipar alone for veg, I added the UFO for heat for a couple of days. I expected it to be too much light for seedlings but they are taking it fine so far. I will see if I see a difference in growth from blue to red side.

Day 36 - Checked PPM 400. Plant is wide and bushy. Day 37 - Plant is 28 inches tall and 10 inches from the light. Day 38 - Plant is 29 inches tall. Root system is almost maxed out for 5 gallon bucket. Checked PPM 700. Built a new light stand/grow area. Now bigger then 4 by 4 foot area. Day 39 - Started a new bucket of water and nutes. Added 20 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 10 mL of each additive. I didnt add the rooting additives Tarantula Piranha and Voodoo Juice. PPM is 1,600. Plant is 32 inches tall. Different looking growth forming. Day 42 - Checked PPM 1,520. Added RO water. PPM is 640. Added 10 mL of CalMag Micro Grow and Bloom. Added 5 mL of each additive. PPM is 1,300. Plant is 34 inches tall. Noticeable bud development started.

Trying to dial their veg in. Nutes may be too old or too high. Changed with 4ml CaMg per gallon of RO water. The rest is MaxiGrow. Ever since adding rockwool to the grow, I have struggled. I don't have the dry back timed right yet. I moved my fan to dry the top of the pot surface instead of in the root zone or at the canopy height. After about 10 days I dumped out the rockwool and have replaced with hydroton. My initial though on using rockwool was to give the roots more space during late life stages. My experience has been with hydroton and I notice that the roots eventually get bound because the hydroton is a durable material and will not crush or compact. Rockwool on the other hand will compress when squeezed so I was hoping that in the late life stages the roots would compress the rockwool and make more room in the pots. The issue was dryback. If I used chunks instead of croutons, this may help but the other reason I used them was because I had them here already. If anyone is trying to slow their dryback down, they should consider adding 10% volume of croutons to hold moisture in the medium a bit longer. Notice anything different? They are starting to adapt to their new media. Hopefully by next week I can get them to perk up. One plant has looked better than the other three. I have no idea what these plants need to “perk up”. Possibly a different grower. If a grape terpine wasn’t in the end results I would have culled these long ago. Hopefully they perk up when we get to flower. 3 look ,,,, meh, the fourth is descent. Trimmed all four back down to 12” tall. Flower next week.

So, with the harvest complete and the dry finished, the rest is now going into jars for the final cure and storage. Overall I enjoyed this grow, it needed minimal interventions and had a smaller work load compared to the other grows. The amount of dried flowers is 752g (1.11gpw) so a decent haul, I threw a lot of B grade buds in the hash bag due to the large number of low level flowering sites (I need to rethink my canopy management) and also with the lack of stretch after flipping made the internodal spacing a bit too tight. Managed to extract 215g of grade a hash from her as well which I have pressed into a slab (pictures). I learned many things along the way, namely root health and the importance of keeping organic additions as low as possible. I also decided to try out clones for my next run, just to get a little more canopy and growth consistency - those of which are in an aeroponics tub at the moment waiting to root (picture). Thanks for those of you who followed along most of the way, good luck with all your grows!

Well, what can I say. She’s a beast. No nutrient deficiencies that I can see, leaves all seem green and healthy. Nute balance, PPMS and PH is dialled in, staying at around 1000 TDS 0.7. That’s not a typo, she’s drinking 7 litres/2 gallons per day. I think she’s doubled her size in 7/8 days. She’s a bit bushy, as I’ve been really busy this last week I haven’t been able to defoliate. Nutes remain the same, slight decrease in nitrogen going into week 2 of flower.

A bit bad weather, still didnt repot, i want to mobe it indoor to finish properly

So far so good with this watermelon zkittles from barneys 😁 no issues and responding well to the topping and lst, I am making 3 litres worth of food for the week and will up it as the plant needs it. I will post more pics and a video later of the room. The purple lemonade and runtz are doing well, they look lost in there big pots 🤣. Pics to come. The orange sherbert are on day 3 of there 2 week flush with molasses and phed water, hopefully there fill out, on the plus side there getting purple on them now 😀. Marshydro tsl2000 is doing a amazing job and is really nice and cool, my hps light use to cook the plants this led is perfect can achieve good temps even cold temps to pull the colour out at the end 😀. The ac infinity with digital controller is a must have and a real game changer for a grower, I love it my mate loves his and trust me it helps, easy to use and set it up outside your grow area, dangle the thermometer cable at canopy hight and your good to go. Day 29 day 2 flower, the watermelon zkittles is starting to start her stretch I think she is going to be a nice plant, iv had no issues in the last 4 weeks and never have with the barneys seed selection.

Ambers came in quickly overnight. So i decided to chop her. She looks good and smells great. A fresh sweet lemony scent. Overal happy with how she turned out. Cant wait to smoke her. 4/4: all trimmed and in grove bags.

Day 36 flowering: Good afternoon growmies. This week has been a dream to watch happen , each of the plants has really put effort onto stacking the buds and getting into light positive positions. Six-shooter is the pygmy still unhappy been moved under the tsl2000 now so will get more direct light. I did a light defol on her to lose the bushiness she was showing. it is easier to see her potential now and I can work towards keeping her in productive phase. She jas some nice stacking already with very shaggy looking bud structures, should make an interesting finish. Strawberry Pie has continued to push budlets out all over the place. she does have fairly long node gaps and filling them out will be a task but i feel she will be more clumps of buds on stems than the donkey dick colas. Mexican Airline is pushing for star of the grow withbjer efforts. She has really took off now and her many many buds are starting to gain a great size for early flowering and stacking up really well too. its early days but i think she will be the plant to beat for yield... They are feeding really well and I amended the living soil this week with some charge and life-cycle. This should support life in the pots and further nute production alongside the megacrop/shogun . I am trying to find a balance using l.o.s and megacrop to keep them both actively feeding rather than the los "switching off" from the additional added. Megacrop is not a usual sodium based fertilised and is root ready as it hits the pot so shouldn't hang around in the soil like others would. I donhabe slight lead burn from the strength so will pull back on dosage a little. I do love how willing Fast buds autos are to go big ! The next weeks will be interesting to watch I hope now we are getting to the juicy bits. Who doesn't love a mid/late flowering cycle.? lol Be safe and well growmies

end of week 5 Buds have developed well and are more compact and nicely swollen. The smell becomes more and more intense. Sweet smell spicy Honey Cream: sweet smeel R. Gorilla: a bit spicy I hope the buds are getting even thicker now we see you next week Update: I have a slight deficiency in 2 of the 4 plants, very strange since all plants get the same conditions and nutrients. the gorilla on the bottom right shows no signs of nutrient deficiency. any Idea why? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Controller AC Infinity Pro - connector for the external light control, RJ-12 - 2 plugs with which I can control dehumidifier and humidifier on automatation. - 2 fans run 24/7, 1 Oscillating from spider farmer Light - 12/12 h | 2 x 200 Watt PPFD - 900-1000 µmol VPD - 1,3 - 1,6 week average RH: 55,1 % Temp: 22,9 ° VPD: 1,28 kPa

The leaves on my plants are starting to fold up like a taco, some yellowing.. Not too sure what is going on. My friend suggested that it was a calcium or magnesium deficiency and it matches the description online but I usually give 3 or 4 ml per gallon damn near every time i water, is that enough or too much even? They are 5 weeks from seed today and all 3 are flowing very different and at a different pace..

Hace un año exactamente estábamos cruzando uno de estos blíster de dosi- gelato del cual germinaron 3 de 5 semillas regalando nos dos hembras y un macho muy resinoso y oloroso y varias genéticas campeonas y de ediciones limitadas como amerth souer diesel x somango,souer diesel, como le pondría. A ese cruce o a dosi gelato x dosi gelato de hecho esa siempre fue nuestra intención sacar el máximo de semillas posibles de nuestro primer cultivo con semillas importadas primero necesita vamos unas semillas regulares pero de buena calidad y que supiéramos un poco de su genética investigamos acerca de doci-gelato y decidimos que sería la primera base de nuestros cruces sus efectos y aromas nos llamaron la atención aparte de que el nombre estaba de moda abrimos varios blister más como blackberry gum thunder banana moví d y varias que ya no quiero nombrar porque quiero que esos sabores sean invento mío jajajja leeimos un poco de como podíamos hacer semillas y lo hicimos polinizamos 11 hembras originales o estabilizadas que no se escuche feo y 3 hembras regulares una de ellas nos la vendieron con el nombre de Hulk otra como Cherry y la última una buble gum que comparamos su olor y sabor con el de la blackberry gum de seedstockers fue muy parecido a nuestra buble gum pero con notas a moras muy buenas de hecho es un cruce que tenemos contemplado para ver si con una planta macho de buble gum regular y una blackberry gum de seedstockers podemos mejorar aun mas el sabor y el olor en nuestro país de hecho hay buenas cepas regulares hemos probado genéticas con sabor mango,pastel de arándanos,limón ,sandía ,uva y gas,chicle clásico rosa,plátano,zorrillas todas esas genéticas y variedades nos han hecho llegar a pensar que en realidad hay gente que lleva incluso mas tiempo conociendo las semillas importadas o aun mejor importando las para realizar investigar o mejorar las genéticas y sus distintos efectos en el 2012 llegué a acceder a bancos de semillas quedé deslumbrado de la cantidad de nombres que había pero no era 100% seguro entonces no quise seguir insistiendo pero ya se escuchaban nombres como mango kush, Golden Acapulco,cronic el precio era mas elevado que los demas prensados que podiamos conseguir pero eran mejores efectos y aromas ya para 2018,2021 Se empezaron a escuchar nombres como blueberry,amnecia,skunk,pineaple,og,kalifas,jirafa ,puma,gorila,Hulk, chocolopez,candy, arcoiris,cristal,poison,f1,sueño azul , Tutankamón,shark, snow,Jack jerer, y mas llevamos 13 años recolectando semillas de diferentes genéticas de cannabis siempre hemos cultivado esas semillas regulares pero nunca habíamos intentado un cruce para empezar no sabíamos como hacerlo solo sabíamos que no teníamos que dejar crecer el macho. Para 2022 después de un obsequio que tuvimos de un conocido volvimos a intentar una vez más conseguir semillas importadas nos regaló un tubo con 10 semillas del banco sweet seeds con fecha de empaquetado en 2017 llevándonos ala misma pregunta desde cuándo estaban llegando las semillas importadas y entonces algunas veces fumamos de genéticas originales al contrario de sentirme mal por no ser el primero en decir que traje genéticas originales o importadas a mi país me sentí feliz por que sabía que lo que estaba guardando todo el tiempo desde 2012 puede ser una gran colección de diferentes breeders tal vez tengamos varias ediciones especiales como la cepa froot loops, jirafe pussy,cronic,ak47 , y así fue como logramos contactar con un banco que parecía de confianza y obtuvimos dos blíster de doci-gelato , blackberry gum,thunder banana ,banana blaze y varias más hemos crecido varios de nuestros cruces pero necesitamos seguir investigando más aún para lograr estabilisar nuestras propias genéticas les dejo una foto de nuestro cruce María Sabina.