Día 57 (16/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 ha empezado a bajar el consumo de agua... pero sigue creciendo! ¿Tendrá fin el stretch de esta planta? CBD Auto 20:1 #2 empieza a perder hojas por senescencia. Está a punto de cosecha!?!?!?! LSD-25 Auto está increiblemente dura y brillante. Un color morado oscuro casi negro OG Kush Auto ha bajado un poco el consumo de agua, pero empieza a formar unos cogollos monstruosos, completamente cubiertos de resina+ Día 58 (17/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 empieza a tocar la lampara! Vuelvo a subir la lampara.... Además presenta una ligera coloración morada en las puntas de las hojas... ¿Coloración natural o deficiencia de P? CBD Auto 20:1 #2 tiene un montón de hojas con senescencia acelerada de un dia para otro! Ha llegado el día de la cosecha! 😍💥 LSD-25 Auto sigue acercandose al final... todos los cogollos son duros como pelotas de golf 💥 OG Kush Auto estaba practicamente seca! Vuelvo a darle 1250 ml de H2O RO. Va a hacer unos cogollos brutales Día 59 (18/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - empieza a mostrar coloración morada en las puntas de las hojas ¿Genetica o deficiencia? Aprovecho el riego con BIO PK 5-8 10 ml/L y darle un booster! LSD-25 Auto - se acerca la cosecha! 😍💥 Cogollos duros como piedras en todas partes y bajando el consumo de agua... OG Kush Auto - muestra más avanzada a deficiencia de hace unos dias, de modo riego con BIO PK 5-8 10 ml/L. A ver como le sienta! Día 60 (19/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - sigue mostrando más deficiencia de P con alguna mancha en las hojas superiores. Menos mal que ayer la regué con el BIO PK 5-8! LSD-25 Auto - Le miro los tricomas y aún no está lista. 50% trasparentes + 50% nublados. Pero solo faltan días! OG Kush Auto - Está empezando a apilar cogollos de forma brutal, y el olor es una maravilla! Además se muestra sedienta! Eso es buena señal Día 61 (20/12) Busy time Día 62 (21/12) LSD-25 Auto - muy cerca de la cosecha. Apenas consume agua.... Día 63 (22/12) LSD-25 Auto - harvest day! Tricomas mayoría nublado y alguno ambar. Perfecta! 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/

Everything is looking great for now. Busy week. Check back next week for individual photos of he plants will be starting to be pretty fat by then

Not sure if the tap root has hit the Kind Soil yet or but she seems to be growing pretty steadily. She's trying to keep up with her growing sister but struggling since the 4AM is fast as shit.

Goingto start LST this week everything is going well 💯 HAPPY

Hey growmies, This week was about hands on the plants. The plants are hungry since I switched last week to 12/12. I've been feeding them every other day since it usually takes 2 days for the ppm to drop sufficiently. On the 15th, I've defoliated all the plants and cutted some offshoots that weren't worth it on the Tropicanna. Every day I've been adjusting the lines so they're as even as they can be at the cannopy. Hope next week the 2 photos are alredy flowering Good grows

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This week i feed 1000ppm to get 800runoff. She was hungry the past 14days now i keep the ec more in chek

Не знаю как вы, а я очень люблю этот день - день сбора урожая. И это даже несмотря на то, что в этот день приходится маникюрить срезанные кусты(я предпочитаю делать это до сушки). В этот раз триммить было особенно сложно, много мелких сативных листочков росло прямо из шишек. А что там шишки? Да супер, твердые как камень, всё как я хотел🌿! В день харвеста(вовремя, спасибо Джа!) не выдержала моя техника - отключилась половина лампы(на 1видео 19с.), видимо действительно пришло время. 🗓️Друзья мои, всех приглашаю в мой дневник через 10 дней сушки, буду взвешивать и пробовать урожай, подводить итоги👆 Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Per fortuna non è lei l'hermafrodita. Pensavo era lei ma poi guardando bene ho visto che è la strawberry 🍓 banana 🍌 della fast buds..mai successo prima...sarà che s'è stressata troppo con il taglio del apicale..boh non so. .,

Hello Diary. The first week of flowering is behind us. The Green Gelato Automatic has reached 41 cm, and is now twice lower than its Hulkberry roommates. Due to the height of the Hulkberries, I had to attach the lights to the very top of the box, the height of the box is 178 cm and to maintain a distance of 35 cm from the plants, I had to do so. 😟 Unfortunately, now the Green Gelato is 50cm away from the light, although I picked up the whole pot, the distance is still too far than it should be. Earlier in the week, I changed the light regime to 20/4, four hours of sleep from the start of flowering. I started giving BioBizz full range for the first week of flowering. She started drinking more water, so I watered more this week than before. Compared to Hulkberry roommates, Gelato grows much lower with much denser branches and more leaves. He did not lengthen in height like them. I started adding Cal-Mag, preventively, since I had a shortage of Cal-Mag with Somango and Royal Haze before. The temperature is higher than I want, around 27-28 degrees, but it’s summer, it could be a lot worse. That’s the advantage of Led lights, and the Migro was a great choice. Humidity in the air is about 50-55%, which is currently good.😀 The tips of the upper leaves are intensely yellow, I sincerely hope it’s a little stress due to the heat, or is it something else, we’ll see. Otherwise the plant look satisfied, there are no major signs that it is missing anything. The only watering is difficult due to the density of the branches and the light does not reach the lowest flowers, but I plan a small defoliation next week. 10/07/2020 - Day 22. I changed the light regime to twenty hours of light and four hours of sleep. It was also watering day. She got the full range of BioBizz for the first week of flowering. I prepare 9 liters of water each time in which I put BioBizz, p.H. I regulate with Plagron’s, Lemon Kick and as of this week I’ve started adding Cal Mag preventively. With that amount of water, I water all three plants evenly. 12/07/2020 - Day 24. Watering. The procedure is the same as the previous times. This time I also filmed the way I do it. 15/07/2020 - Day 27. Watering. Same 9 liters as before, with full BioBizz and preventive Cal-Mag. 16/07/2020 - Day 28. Photography and filming. Green Gelato Automatic - Day 28. - 41cm That’s it for this week, I hope it will still be all right :). See you next week.

Vamos, familia, séptima semana, que ganas ya de que terminen de madurar. No veáis cómo están qué grandes y gordas que contento que estoy es que no fallan las Kritical de GrowBarato. Tengo 6 ejemplares 2 están algo más maduros pero aun así cre que los aguantare igual que los otros 4. Ya les hice el lavado de raíces y desde ya están solo Agua. Ya vamos viendo cómo acaban. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 45%/55% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Going to flip in a couple days

megaite doesn't look beautiful and happy, of course I didn't expect anything else, to be honest I didn't expect to go this far :) so as long as she lives I'm happy :)

Cosecha Green Tiger

Was such a pleasant harvest from start to finish, no issues at all. A tip for next time would be to have the SCRoG lower as I couldn’t really tuck any node sights this time round, smells absofuckinglutely amazing from 3RD week bloom onwards!

Flowering going really well now buds seems to be fattening up nicely and starting to smell a little now also, had no issues at all with these liberty upto now all grew well and not showed any signs of nute burn or anything suprised me really so fingers crossed for the next few weeks that i have no issues and get a nice harvest

A cinch to grow and really had no problems at all. It’s my first time trying anything from Mephisto Genetics and I’m very impressed. Gave nothing but filtered water after applying the 5 tbsp of grow dots at the beginning of veg. Went into flower pretty early but still grew to a nice size with a beautiful cola and had some great trichome production. Would definitely run it again!