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Week 6 of flower is done and the 4x4 is progressing nicely! The buds are all starting to fatten up, I'm especially loving Hella Jelly #1, especially the candy terps she's giving off. The Vanilla Frosting is the other big player in the tent, with the second Hella Jelly a bit smaller than the other two. The Jelly Donutz will be the last to be harvested, as she is developing her flowers more slowly. This tent will be a staggered harvest when it comes to it. These plants have been so easy to grow this run. The Autopot Tray2Grow living soil bed bed has been solid throughout the run, and this past week I installed Blumat Blusoak tape for the 2x4 Grassroots bed, which, up until this point, I have been hand watering. It always amazes me how automatic watering eliminates like 90% of the tent work. It is such a game changer, and the plants love it even more than hand watering because they drink how much they want when they want it! Hella Jelly is supposed to be a fast finisher (45 days sometimes!), so after this next week I will begin checking trichomes. My guess is another 2-3 weeks at least. The trichomes will guide me! Happy growing, growmies! 😎
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Dutch Passion hat mich in einem Kommentar darauf hingewiesen, dass die Fruit Bomb Punch sich noch sehr strecken wird,. Ich hoffe, der Topf wird die Größe etwas begrenzen. Sie ist in dieser Woche mit weniger Höhe gewachsen, entwickelt jedoch viele Seitentriebe. Das sonnige Wetter soll noch anhalten, ein Regentag zwischendrin wäre trotzdem sehr willkommen. Ich wünsche euch einen schöne Grow-Woche.
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2/26: Harvested both Black Jacks and both Gorilla Girls tonight. They got a rough live trim, then chopped, washed, and hung to drip dry. Big, heavy, frosty buds on all 4 of them!👍 3/2: Still drying in the closet...amazing aromas!
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Oct 5-11 Vegetative steering? Aiming for: leaf Temp -80f CO2 -1250ppm VPD +1.04 (65%/75F) Vegetative Steering 6P1/ 2P2/1P3 Each P1 water event is 15 minutes apart. Seems to far apart. I think i Need More water events, with less time in between events in order to get a strong veg signal? Watering for 2min(110)ml May need 3min waterings(currently not getting runoff) I have to hand water every two days. Day 11 flo 18.5inches tall 12inches from light(moved to 16) 1300ppm Day 18 Defol Sprout chickpea(2days) Soaked 1cup for 4 hours then rinsed. Completely covered then Soaked overnight. Rinsed then poured water out and layed jar on the side for one day. Blended with water(aloe vera and coconut) Day 19&20 foilarspray Alfalfa/Chickpea SST with Kelp,aloe,coconut,silicate,microbes brewed for 1.5 days Day 21 Fed the Tea blend Leaf temp 80 65kluxx Co2 100 Plants look like they responded well to the foilar. The flowers at this stage are my best performance yet .crop steering may be working?
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@Smokwiri
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Welcome to my Sun of a Peach by Anesia Seeds diary The topped one is doing better than the other, if you want to know why, i'm referring to the pictures to see for yourself. I think it wont take long before the first defoliation will be done, waiting for the older leaves to turn a bit yellow. This plant loves the organic menu, you can see it...
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Start of week 3 - Plants are still stretching and aren’t slowing down either.. I raised the HPS hood because the tallest stems were starting to show signs of heat stress. Hairs are coming on quickly now, time for the ladies to push out some beautiful bud!
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@Floyd
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The plants are slowly going to flowering stage, the tallest is about 43cm the other 2x35cm and 1x22cm. I have got this “RAW” microbes for the flowering stage but I am not sure if I can or should use it, any advice is appreciated.
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Week 3 of veg and we have topped and started our LST. We are watering every other day with dechlorinated tap water PH’d at 6.2. We use recharge once a week with our waterings usually after inducing stress.
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Welcome to the Green House CUP 🏆 Hi everyone :-) I hope you are all fine 🙏🏻. This week the lady has developed really well 😍👍, which probably has something to do with the Green House Powder feeding that she has been using for a few days 😎. I will top her tomorrow for the first time. After a few more days, I will spontaneously decide whether to do LST or a few more times top :-) Depending on what time allows and how it develops 🤗. It seems to be a very nice genetics. This is how you are used to from Green House 😍🙏🏻. I wish you all a good start to the week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 😎👍 Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0
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@MrJones
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MrJones VIPARSPECTRA XS1000 LED 📜 SUMMARY - I have been given the opportunity to run the next generation of LED lights by VIPERSPECTAR, the XS1000! I set up a Stealth Cabnient and moved 3 Cream Manderain Auto XL.s under these lights, the cabinet set up is automated with WIFI light controllers, and INKBIRD Temperature and Humidity Controllers, I am very excited about this opportunity! Specs and Discount Codes Listed Below. 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹WEEKLY GOALS 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 🌞Environment - 80F and 50%Humidity - using Humidfyer as needed. 💧 Feeding - Feeding with FOOP Canna Organic Nutrient Line 🍃Training / Keeping Stems Stable and Strait 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between product each month for Integrated Pest Management. 💡 Vegetation & Flower (new) Viparspectra XS-1000 Release on March 15th. 🔹🔹🔹🔹PLANT UPDATES🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 🌱 Plant #1 - Week 4 this plant is stretching sideways and is about 14 inches wide not. 🌱 Plant #2 - Week 4 this plant is stretching sideways and is about 14 inches wide not. 🌱 Plant #3 - Week 4 this plant is stretching sideways and is about 14 inches wide not. 🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹 ▶️Monday 03.15.21 / Rge gurls are recovering well from their topping and training! ▶️Tuesday 03.16.21 / Feed with 30 ounces of FOOP, the girls are doing extremely well! ▶️Wednesday 03.17.21/ Admiring their growth - keep adjusting their tie-downs, the plants are about 14 inches wide - across and about 7 inches tall - there are so many bud sites being produced here and the plant is about to go into flower, I am hoping for amazing results. ▶️Thursday 03.18.21 / Fed tonight with about 30 ounces of FOOP Nutrients - I just can't say enough good things about this product so far! ▶️Friday 03.19.21 / The sister plants of thee ladies are in flower, these girls are entering into flower a little slower due to more aggressive training, but decided to switch them over to the Bloom Regiment! They're kicking ass! ▶️Saturday 03.20.21 / Fed with about 30 ounces of Bloom / FOOP ▶️Sunday 03.21.21 / Fed with about 30 ounces of Bloom / FOOP 🔹🔹VIPARSPECTRA XS1000 LED🔹🔹 Amazon US: XS1000 10% off: in10MrJones http://yx-8.cn/0y-6 XS1500 5% off: in15MrJones http://yx-8.cn/0yA XS2000 5% off: in20MrJones http://yx-8.cn/0y2Y XS4000 5% off: in40MrJones http://yx-8.cn/0y5k Amazon Canada XS1000 10% off it10MrJones https://amzn.to/38udUVe XS1500 5% off: it15MrJones https://amzn.to/3esVUyr XS2000 5% off: it20MrJones https://amzn.to/3l5zAfg XS4000 5% off: it40MrJones https://amzn.to/3l7k5Uj
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Final week. Power buds from Plagron helps accelerate the flowering period for sure. I am harvesting tomorrow.😎 This week no fertilizers just water only. Overall happy with the way they shaped up, compared to other strains from other breeders. Need to see after harvest but as a first impression this strain is amazing. The smell now is out of this world. Zesty!!!Lots of citrus scent.Loving it. As for the LST only vs topped. I like the LST only. It matured faster. It is bigger. It has more bud sites . Had an overall better structure. Refer to videos for comparison. But need to see the harvest, weight, smoke report for full comparison Till harvest 👏🎉
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@Hommero75
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End of week 5 for Orange Sherbet FF. This week was better than the last week. She Starting to bounce back from her issues she is taking her time in developing and stretching slowly. No signs of pre-bloom yet. I just fed her Goldleaf feterlizer and did some defoliation to the bad leaves. Hopefully week 6 is better.
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The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.
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@Yolka
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Everything is going great. A little stimulants and water - this recipe for soil I like very much, let's see what happens next. The purple coloring is filling the buds
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@Nillenium
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Woche 3 verlief nach Plan. Ich habe immer wieder die neu gewachsenen Sonnensegel vom Hauptstamm entfernt. Gegen Ende der Woche habe ich mit leichtem LST begonnen. An Tag 21 habe ich die ersten mini Stigmen der Vorblüte entdeckt.
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@leliantu
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Ultima semana de fertilización, a partir de hoy solo riegos con enzimas o con flush, creo que voy a dejarla unas dos semanas con este régimen. Me sorprendió esta auto, de gran aroma, se desarrollo muy bien y muy rápido, lastima que no sepa que variedad es.
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Zkittlez is looking like she's on a hurry, already shooting some brown hairs and only passed 28 days since the flip.