12-20 Watered both about a gallon. Plain ph. Shoulda maybe added cal/mag . But next time. 3x seemed to burn a little, then some cal/mag issues. 3x is living up to her crosses. She smells like straight gas/fuel. Scc just seems happy. Just took some pictures of that weirdo on her. 😂 Well my first Polyploid, its pretty neat. She is also an oxymoron, she has a sweet stink. 😂 😁😻🤘 12-22 1 gallon Scc only. 5ml cal/mag, 1 ml drops, 1/2 tsp recharge. 12-23 Wanted to double check myself. Ppm 500ish. On 3x. Gave cal/mag 5ml, drops 1ml, and top dressed 1 tbs buildaflower. Might not be enough but we shall see. Happy Holidays 😁🤘 12-24 Watered Scc 3 liters. 1/8th tsp bloom booster, 5ml cal/mag, 1 ml drops. 3x is Hungry AF. May run into some trouble here. 😂 12-26 Scc got ph6.5 bloom booster, cal/mag 5ml and drops 1 ml. 3x is so hungry, I found some tiger bloom I had, idk if its any good. 😂 Gave a bloom booster and some tiger bloom. Was at 700 ppm, then I got scared and diluted it to 550 ppm. Also has some cal/mag and drops. Recharge. Gotta watch her close. 🤞

I’ll update ya’ll on the smells and tastes after drying and curing! So far both are packed with ice and smell very potent, a little overpowering still, so I want to give it some time before they’re cures and can show their true terpene profile!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Removed all the new side shoots and the first set of fanleaves. Did this because I want the plant to focus all of its energy on the main stem. I dont need any new side shoots. I thought that this weekend I would flip them in to flower. But I'm going to wait some more. I want to see more height in the plants and I think that after this defoliation that hight will come quick😁🚀 PATIENCE IS KEY! On day 75 I changed the light colour from blue to red to see if this can promote some stretch before changing the lightcycle to flowering. ‼️I did not change the hours of light‼️ On day 76 it seems like there has definitely been some kind of reaction from the plants overnight. They seem to have stretched a little bit. I'll keep a close eye on em these coming days.

Cut a few of the colas off to dry,alot of the tops are done and now just focusing on the bottom buds to ripen and turn amber :) Had a smoke today of the tallest cola,smokes great and haven't been this high in a long time so impressed with her !

Week 7 of flowering 10/30/24 Changed nutrients to fit week 7 Buds are getting even bigger and thicker. Last week PH drop happened again a couple of days after the major flush. PH in rootzone is getting lower every day. Runoff still at 10-20%, so no salt buldup, EC same as intake or litttle higher. Flushed again with FloraKleen and watered with TriPart Micro, Grow, Bloom with CalMag. Bought Potassium Bicarbonate and Calcium Carbonate as suggested by "Aqua Man", to buffer coco in the future. (https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/ph-dropping-from-5-8-to-3-9-overnight-what-is-causing-this.87011/post-2329509) changed nutes on 11/2/24, to FinalPart at 1.3 EC. Checking runoff PH and EC daily.

Really stoked with the outcome of this grow, I was aiming for a good 60g, so i outdid myself some bit. On to the next one!

This week transplanted all new soon to be Mother plants to 5 gallon fabric pot, the topped plant responded well and is 8 inches, tied down to 7 to open her up, and the heavy rooted runt of the bunch is 6 inches,

Another week done, finished up week 6 of flowering, week 10 of the whole grow. The buds are continuing to fatten up, inching closer and closer to harvest. Noticed the first few Amber tricombs on some of the upper buds, going to be leaning off the big bud and switching to overdrive to help aid in ripening and the final bulk. I’d like the run them another 4 weeks giving them a full 9-10 weeks in flower. But will judge harvest on a near 45/55 or 50/50, Cloudy/amber tricomb production.

Coming along nicely now apart from alittle cock up yesterday where I accidentally topped her while trying too lst but I have managed too tape the stem in place so I am hoping my little cock up will force the lower branches too shoot upwards while the broken stem heals , This week I had too change my lighting too 600 true watts of kingbo dual optical LED range due too the temps getting closer too 30c than I would like , and by doing so I have now got a constant temp of 27c lights on and 18c lights out, Update on day 4 or week 3 , My little cock up snapping the main stem while trying to lst the tape seems too have really don't the trick , and although snapping the main stem is not ideal lol , It seems I've managed too top this plant and still get too keep the top , the leaves all look fresh and healthy and feed so I will leave the tape on there for two weeks and then try and remove it as all I had too hand was selotape lol The breakage really do not seemed too affect the top 2 nodes at all apart from trigger the lower plant too stretch out , as this break was bad , like hanging on by a thread bad , so really shocked it took too the repair so easily , and as always I had just been leaching the soil with a single feed that lasts them 7 days , my set up is completely automated and I only go too the grow space once a week but I have a WiFi cam inside the grow space so I can check the temps and how dry the pots are just incase I need too increase the feeding , but too be fair these autos seem too have a mad feed at week 7 and 8 and then drink one feed per week , keeping it simple has helped I think as the plants seem too love it , and I don't need too do anything apart from check the camera , And that's just the way I like it , I pay special attention too the temps in my grow space and a calculator in hand for the nutrients , Other than that I leave them alone too do what they do , I will take some end of week 3 pics over the weekend at some point it's abit of a drive so once a week suits me down too the ground , :) Update on day 5 of week 3 well as you can see from the photos this week has had a huge raise in production , the breakage I did too the main stem has completely healed it's self and the plant has bushed right out at the bottom and top of the plant where it broke , So all in all my little cock up has actually helped the plant grow larger , I today gave them a smaller defoliation basically anything covering a branch that could not be tucked under it I removed , This is too get as much light too these spots as possible too get them too develop before flowering starts , But so far so good , temps are good and no nutrient burns on any of the plants , and the results from day one / first feed on green buzz nutrients too this photo today day 5 is dramatic , the photo of all four was before defoliation , but the defoliation has just shown how busy they have this week and the bud sites on this things already is crazy , my next plan this week is too put the net in there and space out all of the branches too give the best spacing between the breaches

Es war Zeit für die Ernte, im Urlaub hatte sich an der Pflanze im Folientunnel Schimmel an der Hauptcola gebildet und auch etwas an der Pflanze auf der Terrasse. Es hatte in dieser Woche sehr viel geregnet. die Pflanze wurde geschnitten und zum Trocknen aufgehängt.

Looking good. Couple weeks left!

I don't think I got as much weed as I did last time I grew this strain but still very happy with the outcome

This week was half sunny and half cloudy. I increased a bit the Bio-Bloom and the plant looks nice.

Slowly fattening up. Turn out to be a pretty big auto 43” tall. Vegged for 2.5 months roughly i was starting to think it was a photoperiod plant. Hopefully i have to hold them up to keep them from breaking.

Like most beginners I am very impatient. Therefore the following question can I be satisfied with growth so far ? I haven't used any fertiliser so far because I put pre-fertilised soil in the pot when I repotted it. It hasn't received much water yet either, I drowned a plant before, so I have become cautious. I'm starting to think about training her, because I'm very limited in height. 5.5. 80ml 7.5. 100ml 11.5. 240m

Vanilla Latte is driving me crazy... others are going Ok!...

Día 50 / 15 (17/11) N/A Día 51 / 16 (18/11) N/A Día 52 / 17 (19/11) N/A Día 53 / 18 (20/11) N/A Día 54 / 19 (21/11) N/A Día 55 / 20 (22/11) Preparación del PK Booster Compost Tea by BIOTABS! Día 56 / 21 (23/11) Riego cada planta con 0,5 litros de PK Booster Compost Tea by BIOTABS! 💪 🚀 🎉 🚀 FastBuds 15% DISCOUNT code "NONICK" fastbuds.com 💦 Nutrients BioTabs 15% DISCOUNT code "GDBT420" biotabs.nl/en/shop/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae

nothing relevant to narrow follows the flowering