So i skipped one week because there was only one video for that week so i put that video in here with the other footage i have from this grow✌️😎 both ladys growing nice and strong also they are on Steroids when you look at em hahaha but the coming weeks will be really interesting with these two sexy ladys, also i removed the leafs from the bottom so it can focus more on the upper canopy ✌️😆 happy growing all 💚✌️

Right before harvest I took some more videos and photos of the ladies.

So far so good The blueberry g13 is tall with big buds it would seem the crystals are already in full force. The white widow has lots of leaves and I can’t see any crystals yet. The red dragon is looking good crystals are starting to show I wish I would have taken more leaves off the white widow. Smell is still just normal All in all a good week. The buds are growing bigger every day I expect they should be joining up by the end of next week

I’m not too sure how much EXACTLY I grew with this run but I did buy a TerpLock curing bag and it was a one pound bag with about 25% headspace for the buds and they were a bit on the fluffy side so I’d say a little over a quarter pound

Ya esta en su tercera semana de floracio y las flores ya se empezaron a formar , ha crecido muy rapido con una buena estrucctura y aroma muy dulce

26.12.2021 Everything is fine. Finally i have my lamps so now we waiting. The plants feel good. I make a lot of humidity. Happy growing guys

Greetings growers,I took the two girls out of the greenhouse because it is getting very hot, they will finish flowering outside. Both are starting to produce beautiful compact flowers that are getting bigger every day. Starting to smell very good around here.😎

Day 22 white pistils 👍🌱 only had root juice and bio grow gonna remove root juice and add molasses this week at one teaspoon per litre she shows that shes not hungry no nute burn yet small signs that she can do with abit less nitrogen I'm not gonna lower my nitrogen at the sametime I'm not gonna up it either she been getting 1l feeds every 48 hours gonna up it to 1.5l keep an eye out for next update 🌱🧞‍♂️🍾🕹️🎮 I've been training her LST since day 14 and folding looks like shes gonna have some good bud sites 🍾🧞‍♂️ I've put the light schedule to 20on 4off so he can get rested during flower keep the stress down to a minimum 🤓

FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: www.mars-hydro.com www.marshydroled.ca PROMO CODE: rocknroll VISIT THE ALIEXPRESS STORE: @marshydro_aliexpress Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my diary🤜🤛 FC-E6500 LED GROW LIGHT: FC-E6500 grow light with 3978pcs OSRAM BridgeLux Diodes & Moso Driver, market-leading PPF 2.7 µmol/J, Max 2.5g yield/watt with 30% higher Average PPE, more cost-effective when compared to same style type lights. Only consumes 650W, perfectly cover 5x5ft (personal), 4x4ft (commercial) grow space. 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C'est parti pour la dernière semaine avant le rinçage. Vraiment impatient de les goûter 😁 J-58 arrosage eau + calmag + pk + diamond sugar (pH 6.5) Je commence le rinçage des Forbidden Runtz dans 2 jours. Les Fastberry vont encore attendre une semaine avant le rinçage. J-60 rinçage eau (pH 6.4) J-62 rinçage eau (pH 6.4)

Day 8: Woke up and checked on the ladies, they were bone dry. Hit em with 70 ml of AN Coco Grow diluted in my mix. Day 9: Got the new lights in today and hooked up. Girls are looking pretty good I think. Still letting em dry out a little. Gonna add a shot of Great White on next water. No nutes will be in this shot. Day 10: Still looking good. Had to stack some loose Coco around a couple as they had a good stretch going and were leaning pretty good. Also noticed a couple of brown spots on the leaves. I am led to believe after asking questions and researching, it is more than likely nute burn? No more nutes for these girls for a while. I also got a humidifier to raise humidity as it was pretty low. Day 11: These girls almost double in size every day! They would probably be a little bigger if I hadn't of tried to give em a drink of nutes earlier on! Lesson learned!! Not bad for 6 days out of the ground regardless though, I think. Got a humidifier in the tent and it stays around 50% now. Other than last night it got up to 73%. I need to get that fixed. Day 12: Nothing new to update other than they look healthy. Think I am gonna let them dry out a touch more before watering. Day 13: Gave the girls 1 cup of ph 6.0 water this morning. Thermostat battery went out and lucky my girl caught it in time. Temp got to 86° for a couple of hours. Opened the tent for an hour to get the temp back down. Humidity has been hovering around 50% for the most part. Minor fluctuations here and there. Girls are looking good for 8 days out of the earth though!! 💪 Day 14: Looking like they need another drink, dry down to around 1" deep. Gave em 2.25 cups with super diluted Coco Grow and a touch of Great White. 😳 They are doing great! 👍 Looking forward to see what week 3 has in store! Going to build a support to add my 2 CREE lights back in along with the Mars lights.

Adding Nurtrients every 2nd watering only! Using tap water with ph 6.3 / EC 0.2 Adding microbes everytime i give nutrients from now on.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Brutal nuggets, you can see those diamonds shining, very compact, sticky, full of trichomes and a beautiful fragrance, I've enjoyed this strain so much guys, very special, I can recommend this strain if you want top quality fast!

D 78 and she is in her dark period flushing. She hasn’t been feed in a few days. And so it begins. I want to head and added her first set of ice to her soil and she’s going to go ahead and start the ice flashing. She is so frosty she’s just dripping I can’t even with her. Sweet seeds just really knocked her out of the park. She smells just so sweet I cannot even wait.

**Week 8 - Third Week of Flower** Things are getting wild in the Donutz tent! After the insane stretch last week, the plants have turned the space into a full-on jungle. The start of Week 8 called for drastic measures, and the results are setting the stage for explosive bud production. **Key Updates**: - **Aggressive Defoliation**: On Day 1 of the third flower week, the plants underwent a *brutal* defoliation. Every bud site that had started to develop its own leaves was stripped of its fan leaves, allowing light to flood the canopy. Even the smallest sites now have excellent exposure, giving them the best chance to mature into chunky nugs in the coming weeks. Despite the intensity of the trim, the plants are resilient and primed to bounce back strong. - **Boosted Nutrients**: To support the plants after the stress of defoliation, I added another 5-6g of Greenhouse Feeding Bloom per plant. This ensures the soil stays nutrient-rich and gives the plants the resources they need to recover and thrive. - **Watering**: Still rocking reverse osmosis (RO) water, ensuring clean and efficient hydration without any surprises. **Observations**: - The canopy is significantly cleaner and more open, with light now reaching deeper into the lower sections. - The plants are handling the defoliation well, with no immediate signs of stress or shock. - Bud sites are already looking promising, with visible development and an even distribution across the canopy. **Looking Ahead**: The next few weeks will be all about letting the plants recover and watching the buds stack up. With improved light penetration and a fresh dose of nutrients, everything is lined up for some impressive development. The Donutz are thriving, and the Florida Gang vibes are at an all-time high — the tent is set to deliver big!

Mephisto and bighead going into darkness for 48-72 hrs. Then the chop. Big bomb is the last one standing in the 5x4 will begin flushing soon

Wachsen sehr gut vorran