FLOWERING IS UPON US for all of the strains I wanted to let the 2 purple berry Kush veg for another week but forgot to put them under the TS-1000 but hopefully there still gone grow fine it is experiment achter all. Have made the switch for 12/12 couple day's ago and i see them all developing 😍 hopefully by the end of next week it will get interesting 👌🏻 visit www.marshydro.eu for your best gear and use the PROMO CODE: DEVILSBUD Some info about the Marshydro FC-4800 Superb Quality LED Chips: The whole light is composed of 1206 pcs Samsung lm301b and Osram 660nm chips. More than two times as many LEDs are used to drive the grow lights at low currents and to avoid overdrive. Quality is guaranteed and efficiency is up to 2.8 μmol/j. Even PAR Distribution and High PPFD Output: The multi-light bar design and the densely distributed light chips enable the LED grow lights to achieve the optimum PPFD required for plant growth over the entire effective coverage area. Specifically Designed Spectrum: To ensure even plant growth, blue and red light are enhanced on the basis of a full spectrum combination. Not only does this accelerate plant growth, but it also improves the yield and quality of the plants at the same time. Dimming Daisy Chain Function: The dimming function saves on electricity costs and enables brightness from 10% to 100% for the different stages of plant growth. A single master light can connect up to 30 lights in a daisy-chain system. Business LED Grow Light: The light's wavy heat sink dissipates heat quickly and the IP65 waterproof allows the light to operate in humid conditions. 180° collapsible feature for easier installation. All these features provide favorable assistance for commercial cultivation. And some tent info ●【Lock All Light Insid】MARS HYDRO Grow Tent Interior is made of diamond mylar. Non-toxic to the environment, no harm to plants. High-quality 1680D canvas being double stitched, (ALL OTHERS BRAND grow tent is 601D canvas) which is tear-proof for perfect light locking, No light leaks or rips at all. ●【Durability Grow Tent】Stable Metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. No rusting nor paint-falling. Quick easy tool-free installation. Carries strong heavy-duty SBS zippers, double layer lining to create a light-proof seal. ●【Easy Observation of your Plants】Special peeks window made by double layers of cloths. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing plants. The peek window also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate air. ●【Removable Tray Keep Clean】The package includes a removable waterproof floor tray to hold soil and fallen leaves. The tray can be taken out easily to wash. Removable and water-proof makes cleaning easy. ●【Good Ventilation&Fast Assembly】 Circular double-sleeved vent holes with adjustable nylon strap for air circulation by exhaust fan, ducting, carbon filter, or reflector. Better allows proper light, heat, and airflow. Quick tool-free installation. Reinforced by a sturdy metal frame to ensure security and stability, supports up to 140lb. Perfectly safeguard your plants to thrive even in winter

24.02.24 - 1.03.24 Red hot cookies performing stunnigly as always. This is a true beauty and a wonderful plant. Very healthy and sturdy. Yesterday I already noticed some distinct candy mandarine aroma with some chocolate cookies mixed in. Lets hownshe develop those lovely colours ans smell. One of the older plants is already fed 7 times a day. Thats a record for me. In around 9l of coco.

Questa gorilla cookie cresce ben forte..spero arrivi al termine senza nessun intoppo.... Siamo arrivati alla fine della3 settimana. Tt procedere alla grande

Vegetation: To keep temperature and moisture on optimal levels at around 23°C / 65% I'm using two mechanical timers. - 24/7 on: Fans and water pumps (+Ventilation after 3.11.) - Timer 1: Lights and Humidifier 18h on / 6h off - Timer 2 (BROKEN 3.11.): Ventilation 18h (15min on / 15min off) / 6h off NOTES: Everything looks good and the roots have appeared from almost every (11/13) rock-wool cube. From now on I'll mostly water the plants from bottom by adding the wanted amount of nutrient solution on a plate, and then placing the plant on top of for ~15seconds This week I'm also starting to prepare the hydroponic systems (2x NFT-GT90, and 1x EBB-flow I think) and stronger nutrient solution since my plants are becoming ready to be transferred. Spreader-mat is the base of my plants when I have transferred them in to the hydroponic systems. DO NOT place more than one layer of the spreader-mat as it is not meant to be used like that! As you're cutting the mat for NFT's, be aware to have some extra for your peace to reach nutrient solution below the tray. That way you won't get noise from water dropping when systems are turned on. Day 15 (1.11.) Day 16 (2.11.) First watering with a bit stronger nutrient-solution (~ EC 0,6 / pH 5,9) than before, starting with 50ml/plant and watering once from above. Slowly increasing EC to 0,8. I cleaned and assembled 2 out of 3 hydroponic-systems which I'm going to use. I'll do the same also to the last system, but it currently has my plants on top of it so I'm going to do it later. I want to make sure that my plants have built healthy and big enough root system before transplanting to hydroponics. I'm waiting for the rock-wool cubes to be bursting of roots so they won't drown on their first day in hydro. Also, as the plants are bigger before the transplant, I'm able to fill my nutrient-solution tanks full with correct strength nutrient-solution for Mid-Vegetation from the start, therefore no need for that much adjusting later on. Day 17 (3.11.) I noticed my other timer which controls the lights had stopped working... The lights were on when they shouldn't have been, I noticed it an hour after they were supposed to turn off. I think I caught up to it early, but it may have been on for maximum of 2 days straight. No worries there since on vegetation-phase the plants don't necessarily need any sleep (Even though you should avoid quick changes like that!). Roots have appeared from the bottom of every cube and plants are looking pretty healthy. I think they are almost ready for hydroponics. Day 18 (4.11.) Few plants are showing symptoms of nutrient deficiences or some sort of sickness, not certain what exactly. I'll be keeping an eye on it. I'll be transferring in to hydroponic systems in maybe a week, so I don't want to stress my plants more than what's necessary. Increased my solution strength to 0,9 EC with a bit more Cal-Mag than before, and watered the plants for 50-150ml each plant depending on weight and size. I'll be slowly increasing the strength by around 50% during upcoming week. Thanks for tips! Day 19 (5.11.) Day 20 (6.11.) Plants are recovering well from deficiences and I just transferred all of them to hydroponics. I don't have the water pumps on for 24/7 just yet, at this point I water them a couple times a day by keeping the pumps on for somewhere around 15min at a time. Lights are now set to 60% and I also added a tower fan to circulate the air and shake the plants. Day 21 (7.11.) Lights are now set to 70% since the Led's and plants are spreaded wider in the tent than before. Distance to plants stays the same at 75cm.

As you can see here they have gone a much darker green thanks to the amendments starting to get broken down by the microbes. I will be doing some LST and FIM this week to ensure a bushy plant ready for the outdoor by the end of the month.

Salut à tous, Je vous est mis les vidéos de hier car je n'ai pas eu le temps de le faire. Je vous est mis les vidéos d'aujourd'hui, vous verrez sur les vidéos et photos que j'en quelques unes qui pousse bizarrement pourtant elles ont toutes le même traitement 🙃. Elles font 8,5 cm à part mes petites Mutantes. Bonne soirée à tous 😉

Hey now, hope everyone has been well. Super excited football season is finally here so things are about to get busy. I went out of town for 4 days and the plants struggled a little bit with the PH getting slightly too high before I returned. I also came back to see that some type of insect was munching away on the lower leaves of my Sundae Driver which I sprayed the plant and coco with neem oil, but hopefully they didnt do much damage before I can get them under control I have never experienced insect problems indoors, likely because I grow in Coco and not Soil. However, I left a 5 gallon airpot full of coco from a previous grow outside for a couple weeks by mistake, and pretty sure bugs got into. I wont make that rookie mistake again. Anyways the rest of the ladies are looking pretty good, They are almost getting what I consider a full dose of nutrients, even though it half of the manufacturers recommended dosage. I am feeding all Gen Hydro cal mag, Armor Si, and maxi grow. Not sure why I can't add it under GHE or the company that bought GHE. I also add some food grade hydrogen peroxide to keep the reservoir fresh for around 10 days or so but I clean it once a week. I did get all the ladies transplanted from solo cups to airpots on day 16, and it took 24 hours or so for them to recover from the transplant and start growing again. I am running 3 of the 3.4 gallon, and 2 of the 5.4 gallon just because that is what I had available. I hopefully top them all sometime this week for the first time, as soon as the roots are a little stronger. I let them grow to 7 nodes or so before I top them and make sure they're growing fast. Hopefully I can still mainline the Sundae Driver, she looks healthy other than those two leaves chomped off. All the plants are on their 5th nodes, except for the Green Crack 2.0 which is only on her 4th node. We got another heat wave coming through my region that I am not too excited about but at least its earlly in the game and I dont need to crank this light up yet. I am only running it at 30% and its putting off plenty to keep this ladies happy. Hoping to get a topping done this week, then another one next week, and be ready to flip to flower by week 7 or so. Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

After realising that it was the temps in my reservoir changing causing my ph levels to change I have now sorted the issue and levels are a lot more stable. This week I will begin diluting/flushing my system by just adding water ph 6.2 to the reservoir before I do a full system change for the final 2 week flush Starting to see a lot more too her now and her buds are starting to bulk. I'm really pleased with how she is turning out and I can't wait for harvest! Happy growing 🌱

The last week of vegetation is already ending. Starting from day 57, I switched to a 12/12 hour light regimen.

So, thinking this is the first day of week5, but I’m not sure. 📢🗣️ I think this is ‘flowering’ but I’m not sure; comments to help me define ‘flowering’ would be appreciated, please judge my photos and let me know! 📢🗣️ I made a video of my PH reader and a photo. Comments with help for that would also be appreciated, is the PH really over 9 (my readers max) due to calcium buildup up, or is the humus lombrico giving a false reading? 500 ml distilled water (still trying to flush high calcium buildup from the local water). When the fertilizers arrive I’ll start giving her food: 9/8 200 ml bloom, 60 ml CalMag sup 10/8 250 ml filtered tap water Moved her to a different balcony that gets a little less morning sunlight 🌅 but a lot more afternoon sunlight ☀️ Tightened the first two LST yarns, added 2 more and discovered 2 more bud sites!

Day 71: The left plant is starting to show some of the same problems I see on the right plant so I am going to flush her too tomorrow. I think that it is mostly due to the light stress from before, it is just showing now, but to be safe she gets a flush too @5.8 ph Day 73: Hmmmm... It is difficult to see if the problem persists, or its just the affected leaves that will not recover. Should I remove these "sick" leaves? - They seem to be happy abut the new light intensity as some of the problems is defiantly improving like the leaves are praying, and the sides of the leaves does not seem to bend as much. I have been very gentle with the feeding, after having done 3 flushes (15L at 5.8 ph) and have updated my feed schema above Day 75: I am sure that I had some light-stress, and it is over now, but I don't think I see a full recovery.... I think I see the leaves to get more yellow but it might just be as mentioned before, that the sick leaves won't recover but I do not know what to do from here. Should I just leave them, or do you growmies have any suggestions? The grow has, and is, very slow in my opinion but I still see progress UPDATE: I decided to doe some heavily defoliation. It might have been too much for the left one. I haven't done much defoliation, but they where so bushy, that I thought it was necessary to get light on all my buds. Also I wanted to get rid of those "sick" leaves. I think I am on the right track, and the symptoms I see are old problems now

smell is strong now. sour 76 has a range of citrus, number 1 is lemon dominated with fuel scent underneath. number 2 has a smell super similar to tangie! seeing sour 76 parent is cali sour d (cali orange x sour d x mexican sativa) cross to 76 afghan it makes sense to me it has reminiscent smell to tangie (cali orange x skunk 1 [mexican sativa x afghan indica x colombian sativa]) very similar parent lineages there! havin smoke test both, sour 76 is much more heavy handed high! plants finish at 66 days this run. at this point I gave last main feeds before tapering nutes back lower for week 8 and then flush week 9

Partimos esta nueva semana transplantando nuestras green gelato de Rqs a su maceta definitiva de 7lts. También subimos la dosis de nutrientes a 3ml de green grow y 2ml de gold sunshine de Quemanta Nutrientes. Aprovechando el estres del transplante quitamos los primeros internodos de abajo para generar la concentración de energía en los nuevos brotes.

The main purpose of chlorophyll is to capture photons of energy. When growth is no longer a priority for a plant in nature, it will naturally sink its "no longer needed" nitrogen and switch pigments to carotene and anthocyanin, which are better-suited pigments for environmental protection rather than capturing photons (growth). This is because of all nutrients used by a plant, nitrogen in its nitrate form is highly stable and required for the rigours of electron capture, ammoniacal nitrogen readily evaporates into the air during cure/dry. The ripening stage is no longer about growth, but the main priority is protecting trichomes and opening up the oxidative capacity of the plant so it can focus 100% of filling those trichomes. Nitrogen in its elemental nitrate form is no longer required during ripening to the same degree as it was; the vast majority of growth is over. Understanding when to shift a plant's focus from rapid growth to maturation is the key to maximizing the trichome quality and terpene profile of the final product. That is the single most important decision you will make during a grow in terms of dictating smoothness, taste, and smell, I have found from my limited years of dedicated and driven study into the matter. Synthetic nutrients maintain a near full nitrate ratio comparable to ammoniacal nitrogen, whereas organic nutrients maintain a supply of ammoniacal and convert only to nitrate what is needed. This is far more beneficial for organic growers when it comes to smoke smoothness, as the higher levels of ammoniacal nitrogen are far easier to dispose/convert than nitrates come harvest, cure/dry with far more efficient margins held within leaf/bud when it comes to conversion to aminos. A good dry and cure can go a long way to a quality smooth smoke, but without a proper senescence sequence or triggered autophagic sink of nitrogen, then you will be asking far more than can be expected from a dry/cure. It's one thing to sink the last 5-10% and convert the last drips to amino acids during the dry and cure, but leaving the plant fully charged with nitrogen in the form of nitrate is simply not going to taste good, no matter how much smoke you blow up your own ass or how long you have been growing. Means nothing. Smoke quality relies on pre-harvest physiology, not just the dry and cure! The dry and cure cannot fix poor pre-harvest metabolic states. A high-quality, smooth smoke requires correct signalling before harvest. While a proper dry and cure can gently soften the edges and convert the last 5-10% of sugars into amino acids, it fundamentally cannot perform magic on a fully fertilised plant. You cannot oxidise stable nitrates (+5 charge) into a smoother state during drying. Ultimately, accept it's going to be a heavy smoke and be grateful, onwards upwards! The way in which ammoniacal nitrogen reacts to carbon sugars is critical in how it acts during oxidation and is responsible for oxidizing leftover sugars that can make the buds smoke harshly. Limited ammoniacal equals limited oxidation of excess carbons held within tissues. Just so you know, it's not an anecdotal rule that's unresolved and unsubstantiated. It's called the Maillard reaction. Signal triggers and stressors. Normally, you can only use 10-30% ammoniacal nitrogen, but as harvest closes, it is beneficial to increase this ratio 50% of ammoniacal as it assists in steering the plant towards maturation. Rather than running 50% ammoniacal nitrogen continuously until harvest, use it in short, targeted flushes/additions (e.g., 7 days) to slow internode elongation and hasten maturity. Use alongside forced larger "dry backs" (allowing the root zone to dry out significantly between watering events). Raising the Electrical Conductivity EC of the medium to create mild osmotic stress. Widening the day-to-night temperature difference and increasing the vapour pressure deficit VPD. How would you like your cola's sir? Arm length, please, no gaps with trichomes as thick as snow.

d.57 - looks alright, had to do some lst and adjustments to level out the height gave an additional biotab. move my big fan, below the plant, in an effort to push the moisture upwards and out, which resulted in me being able to raise the lights further up.. my plant is way over the average height of is genetics, thanks to biotabs 🌞. fastbuds said it would have an average height of 70-100 cm, and ny plant is closing in on the 80 cm and she keeps going ^^. and people say that autoflowers cant be main lined, well i believe this grow proves it. achieved darker folliage in the bottom, so i believe that we are on the right track. hopefully the deficiency levels out. day 62/63 gave an additional biotab so we are at 6 total. day 63 i gave 10 ml bio pk with the watering.

Last update of pictures before harvest nothing much to write up on, been om a flush for 7 days now so far and will give her a few more before i cut her down, see you next time im back when i update my harvest overall results and final pics of the buds. Next up i have a selection from barneys farm including Wedding cake autos and fems gorilla glue autos, tropicanna banana and dos si dos, and some amnezia haze from RQS see you soon 👊👍

Hacemos domingo 4 mayo te aireado y echamos 22 gr de top dress