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Eccoci qui!!! Tutto procede per il meglio, i pistilli sono usciti e ora si va dritti dritti alla maturazione, NE VEDREMO DELLE BELLE!!! La piccola cresce molto vigorosa ed in salute, ed Ăš un vero piacere coltivarla. Reagisce molto bene alle fertilizzate e non vedo l'ora di vedere i frutti!! Grazie a tutti per il supporto â€ïžđŸ”„đŸŒČ
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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February 16, 2021 (Week 6, Day 43): Very nice canopies beginning to develop now. Growth sites are apparent and growing vertically. Had to slow Unknown 1 down just a little bit because it's outgrowing the other plants; brought branches down level with other canopies. I watered today with 4 liters per plant + 2ml/l pH Perfect Grow + 3ml/l pH Perfect Bloom + 1ml/l Cal-Mag Plus at 5.6 pH. Runoff sitting at a perfect 6.5pH and 900ppm. Loosened all remaining LST ties to promote upward growth. It's officially wall-to-wall leaves in here now. I hope there's lots of great growth this week so we can switch to flower soon! Turned down humidity again. Now averaging 55% rH and 74℉. Please feel free to leave any feedback! Since this is my first grow I want to make sure everything is looking right! Happy growing! đŸ‘» February 17, 2021 (Week 6, Day 44): Saw between .5-.75" vertical growth over the last 24-hours. Canopy is coming along nicely. Everything is growing very evenly - I only had to adjust one branch to keep it in-line with the others. Hopefully they'll continue to grow even with each other. Medium is still very moist after watering yesterday. Gelato 1 seems to be drinking a bit more than the others, but I'll keep watering on the same schedule to promote adequate drying of the root-zone. Averaging 55% rH and 77℉. No other news today. February 18, 2021 (Week 6, Day 45): Another half inch of growth overnight. These ladies are trucking along and flowering is just around the corner. With this growth I'll definitely be switching to flower on day 50. Medium is still moist, lightly tilled topsoil. LST is holding down the main branches well while allowing a bit of stretch. Hopefully this progress keeps up! Averaging 55% rH and 74℉. February 19, 2021 (Week 6, Day 46): Growth on growth on growth. Plants tacked on between .75-1" of new growth overnight. Soil was bone dry this morning and pots were super light. Watered with 4l per plant + 3.5ml/l pH Perfect Bloom + 2ml/l pH Perfect Grow + 1ml/l Cal-Mag Plus @ 5.8 pH. Runoff sitting at 6.6 pH. The plants are starting to drink a lot and I barely got any runoff. I will add a quarter teaspoon of my Humboldt Nutrients Big Up flower powder to kick-start the plants and switch them to flower. I took four fan leaves off Unknown 1 as they weren't getting any light. Took all remaining LST ties off of Unknown 2 as it is lagging behind the others (as usual). Averaging 55% rH and 74℉. February 20, 2021 (Week 6, Day 47): Manifolding is coming along nicely. Defoliated bottom-most node on each growth stem on each plant. Soil is only moist after watering yesterday - these plants are getting thirsty as hell. Tilled half inch of top soil. Everything looks great today. The anticipation to switch to flower in a few days is killing me! Happy Saturday everyone! Averaging 55% rH and 75℉. February 21, 2021 (Week 6, Day 48): Another inch of growth overnight. We are up to 12" in total height now. Was aiming for about ~16", but since this is my first grow I am not trying to be exact, I just want to make sure these things fit in my tent after the flowering stretch. Everything is looking great for the switch in two days. Soil is slightly moist - tilled top half inch of soil. Adjusted a couple of branches on Unknown 1 to keep growth level. Plants are looking perfectly healthy! Gelato 1 is spitting out pistils and pre-flowers like she just can't wait to start. Smelling really creamy and sweet. Averaging 55% rH and 74℉. Nothing else for today. đŸ˜ș February 22, 2021 (Week 6, Day 49): It's the last day of veg! Plants will sleep at 8:00pm and wake up at 8:00am from now until harvest. Medium is quite dry but I will water tomorrow morning with my first batch of flowering nutrients. I'll use Advanced Nutrients Big Bud and Botanicare Sweet Raw for the first 4-5 weeks, and then I'll switch over to Humboldt Nutrients Big Up flower powder for the last several weeks to finish it off. I'll feed just a tiny bit of the finisher tomorrow to give the plants a potassium/phosphorus boost to induce flowering. Really excited for the next step in this process! Now I am trying to finish up my plan for drying and curing so I don't ruin all this work in the last week! Averaging 55% rH and 74℉. Stay tuned - the fun is just beginning! đŸ‘»
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@Aedaone
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The temperatures, humidity, height, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil spread evenly across the top of the soil. Daylight hours this week will be below 13.5. I can't use halves in the grow conditions, so I'm noting here. Day 1 we had a high temperature of 90°F. Skies were sunny and it wasn't as humid as it's been. I watered about 5 gallons per pot ,once, from the well. Day 2 we had a high temperature of 83° F with partly cloudy skies. I watered each pot about 5 gallons once. I treated twice with Growers Ally fungicide. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 81°F. There was plenty of sun and I watered about 5 gallons per pot. Even though the girls are drinking more the cool weather and them rooting into the soil through the fabric pots has kept me from watering twice a day. The girls cleaned up nice after the fungicide treatment. They look great. Day 4 we had a high temperature of 78°F. Skies were clear and sunny. I watered about 5 gallons per pot with well water. The air has been a little drier with this cool from and the girls are loving it. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 77°, clear sunny skies, and humidity at 66%. This weather is very fall like and the plants are loving it. We've got rain in the weekend forecast though. I hope we miss it. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 77°. Skies were partly cloudy to mostly sunny. The humidity dropped into the 40%'s today. The plants are loving this weather. I watered about 5 gallons of well water. These girls are starting to smell like lemon cleaner with a sweet note. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 86°F. Skies were partly cloudy and we had just a few minutes of very lite rain. I watered about 5 gallons per pot with well water. This week was a success. The powdery mildew is an ongoing issue but it's controlled by spraying weekly with Growers Ally fungicide. The weekly rain is what's making it so troublesome. These girls have slowed their stretch and seem to be leveling off. They are smelling like lemon cleaner, with a sweet note. Daylight hours finished up the week at 13 hours and 20 minutes.
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Ok just finnished a blunt of this a out an hour ago, and I do not smoke blunts lol But it seems only right too do a real smoked reveiw , So the fbt7 has been dry now for about 2 weeks and in a jar and today was the day too take the first bud too try so I rolled a fat one " fat one in photos lol , So for me the flavour just isn't there yet and am hoping that will come after a cure , So I smoked this all too my self and qiukly , Within a few minutes I went white as a ghost as was twitching the the corner hehehe, This is very strong bud and I would go as far as saying it's probably the strongest bud I've had in years , I am what I would describe as a joker smoker , as I turn my bud into oils and do not smoke it , But any serious cannabis smoker will absolutely love this strain , Well done fast buds and thank you :)
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Thursday the 8th of June day 43 of 12/12 just plain ph water from now until harvest
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War 10 Tage im Urlaub. Die erste Woche wechselhaft und verregnet, dann 3 heiße, schwĂŒle Tage. Die automatics bauen schön BlĂŒten auf, Apple fritter Auto sind am weitesten, dicht gefolgt von sweet zz Auto, dann creamatic und critical Auto ( die brauch noch minimum 5 Wochen..) Apple fritter Auto vielleicht noch 2 Wochen. Die feminisierten wachsen gesund und verzweigen schön . Es lĂ€uft gut. Bis nĂ€chste Woche ✌
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Auto pots are on. Reservoir is at EC 2.2 and ph 5.5 added 1ml/L of calmag on day 19.
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hi all, friends of the good weed we are proceeding with the drying and then dry cutting as we usually do these beauties have gone over and have not been able to contain the feedings well, but nothing to worry as they have popped out of the really beautiful and cold buds stay up to date for the smoke
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@Pikipiki
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En breve a flora
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@AK1210
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New flowering continues to develop on this lady, she seems to be swelling up day by day. Yellowing of the fan leaves has started which usually means it's time to flush, I need to check the trichomes to see how amber they appear before I do just in case the flavour or yield could be effected.
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Os fertilizantes tenho usado alternadamente em intervalos de 3 a 4 dias entre as regas . Pois tive que recolher as plantas para a estufa. Quebrei as ponteiras para não alongar muito a planta pois tenho limites de altura da iluminação e quero ver se ela fica mais cheia de botÔes no caule .
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It's the same height that it was last week but I did top it this week. So she did grow I just cut her back down. I topped and defoliated every plant. I'm trying to form them into canna-bushes. Hopefully I'm doing the correct training procedures to make them all grow that way both indoors and out.
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Bien pues ya tenemos en marcha el 2Âș seguimiento del perfil... Son 6 white truffles, 6 Apple&Bazzokies de GBSTRAINS y 5 GG4 de GBSEEDS que se empezaron a germinar el 15 de mayo por la tarde sobre las 19:00 Todas nutridas con BOOM nutrients jejeje Todas las semanas iremos viendo los cambios y la evoluciĂłn, los riegos y las flores que vendrĂĄn :) El 16 de mayo del 23 sobre las 07:00 de la mañana pase las semillas del vaso con agua, a los tapers con servilleta. AhĂ­ estuvieron 24 horas mas haciendo un total de 36 horas germinando para despuĂ©s, pasarlas a las macetas de 1 litro. 22/05/23 actualizado, meto unas fotos mas de como van las semillas despuĂ©s de 7 dĂ­as desde que se empezaron a germinar en el vaso de agua. A dĂ­a 22/05/23 llevamos 7 dĂ­as desde que se empezaron a germinar. ACTUALIZACION DE ESTADO: 30/05/23 Subo unas fotos despuĂ©s de 8 dĂ­as. Llevamos 15 dĂ­as desde que se empezĂł a germinar las semillas en vaso de agua. A partir de aquĂ­, empiezo a contar semanas de crecimiento. Trasplantaremos a maceta definitivas de 7L dentro de una semana o 2.
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@Rambogrow
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Growing without issues. Feeding every 2nd day now. Shes requiring much more nutrients. Switched her to 20/4 light cycle as well. Trying to speed up her growth as she's moving slowly.
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@Urunascar
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Harvested a little early because of the diseases in the plants nearby (botrytis, mildew, a little bit of spider mites), didn't wanna risk the whole crop so I just cut everything down and gave it a good cleaning with water and hydrogen peroxide for the first time ever. From my point of view I lost quite a bit of trichomes doing that, but do I regret it? Not a single bit, the trichomes that you actually lose by doing a bud wash are already degrading and aren't holding onto anything, so they would make the flavor worse (also from my pov) if they stayed there, also I didn't have a roof over them for almost 5 months so they had a lot of debris so I rather not smoke all of that
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@Thedibber
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Smelling dank gas with slight berry notes đŸ’Ș
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Just letting her ripen now, colours coming in.. and fading out nicely. Last few days will be RO water. EC is still lower than what comes out of my tap, 0.5. We are near.. Day 77 - the girls are nicely faded/flushed with RO water, so my EC is sitting lower than what comes out of the tap.. only like white ash burning and to maximise flavour and smells. Shes currently a problem as the small tester bid i took left the whole place smelling very strong to the point where i haven't chopped her yet as the smells too strong even with a carbon filter. (No joke). Thinking to possibly chop either tomorrow or the day after. Not much to report until I've chopped and left to hang dry, I'd normally let the whole plant hang dry but might have to do it differently due to the sheer size of these girls. Once hang dried she will be in jars (might even get some more boveda packs). But yeah, stay tuned for this one 😉 this ones gonna pack a punch. Again i tried to upload a 3 minute video but GD won't allow the video.