Week 11 is here early this time, as i did some stacking stuff in photoshop today! Watered the Afghan with 2,3 Liters, ramped up the dosage to final. The smell also now i comfortably classify as "strong". They smell really good! More updates and pics at the end of this week. Im starting to check trichomes, feeling wise i'd give the blueberry 1-2 more weeks, the afghan kush is probably at least 2 more. still lots of clear trichomes on both of them though. given that they were a lot slower than my previos run in everything, i also wouldnt be surprised if we take it to 3+ weeks on both. Sadly, the blueberry is already starting to swell a bit, but all the flowers are still really really small. Hoping for the best, and luckily im not out after maximizing yield, as long as they taste, smell and smoke good! 31.01.25 Added Timelapse. See you next week!

Apple Fritter is doing good. I changed solution today, and adjusted levels to suit her needs better. She is not showing any flowering signs beside a litter stretching so far. She is under a Spider Farmer SE5000 light at 70 percent. She is in a New Level Hydro bucket. Thank you New Level Hydro, Spider Farmer, and Amsterdam Marijuana Seeds. 💪 ❄️🌱🤜🤛 Http://amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g SE5000 https://amzn.to/3qFpAML Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au Coupon Code: saveurcash Www.newlevelhydro.com Www.hygrozyme.com

Day 71. Girls went through two plain waterings, planing to give tomorrow first feed without BioGrow. Will try to ramp everything and achieve 800 ppm. No space, girls are showing signs of few top bleach and foxtailing starting ... All Northern Lights are like two weeks behind ... One Green Crack is rocking my soul with sizes of buds - FATASS buds ;))) Diesels are looking fantastically too !!! Amazing house ! Day 74. Chopped FB LSD 25, so got a bit more space, but those side plants missed space a lot !!! Some big branches on Northern Lights died off without proper light and space , so now they should be happier ... Day 75. Girls loved more space and I think two first Alaskan Diesel will fall in 10-14 days. Cut food for them now ! All others are pushing and looking very promising ! Happy Growing !!!

-Strain: Purple Lemonade - Fast Buds -Tent: 5x5 Gorilla Grow Tent -Lights: Budget LED Grow Lights 2 x 250 Watt LED Full Spec/Red Spec mixed boards -Light Cycle: 18/6 -Soil: Fox Farm -Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T4 Inline Duct Fan WECLOME BACK GROWMIES! Week 8 here with our GELATO AUTO by Fast Buds! January 14, 2020 (DAY 52) - Hey there growmies sorry for the one and only update this week, i got sick and just cant do it. i hope you all understand.

Still nute burn on new growth even though I'm not feeding them at all. I just got a new water filter and thinking about a distiller. Previously was just letting the chlorine evap off by letting the water sit over time. Still havent tested my tap water yet but i assume its bad b/c i can feel that it is hard water for sure. Just rolling with the punches for now. Got my gf to take a decent pic of the most mature plant this week. It is almost ready i believe.

Looking and smelling fantastic Flush flush flush Around 40% Amber now

This grow was so amazing!! The purple punch’s came out super sticky dense nugs, super frosty , an a huge smell of blueberry muffins! Super fun grow along with the Forbiddin Runtz definitely one of the sweetest berry smelling strains of ever grown, highly recommend everyone to try out the purple punch’s, you will be highly satisfied!! Stay tuned for next grow!!

Very happy with this strain, fast and frosty! Only going to become a better grower by working hard everyday. Extremely pleasing smell and terpene profile.

8/10/2018 Day 15 - ppm=605 ph=5.6 Temp=27.6c-26.0c Day 16 - ppm=605 ph=5.6 Temp=26.4c-25.6c Day 17 - ppm=613 ph=5.6 Temp=27.3c-26.7c Day 18 - ppm=623 ph=5.5 Temp=27.6c-22.8c Day 19 - ppm=630 ph=5.5 Temp= 27.4c-22.6c Day 20 - ppm=640 ph=5.4 Temp=28.0c-23.6c Day 21 - ppm=652 ph=5.6 Temp=27.6c-22.8c I havent had to do much with her at all this week, she looks healthy and ppm of nutrients is rising nicely there is about 10l of feed left of the 20l reservoir so i will probably top it up next week at some point. Check out the time-lapse of the week, turn the volume up 👌👍

Waiting for the end to come… getting a little colorful now. Harvest time is around the corner - ready for thanksgiving 😎 More closeups will follow before the harvest is done, can’t make much time for them atm. Bananas looking fatter and shin day by day 💪🏻✨ Growdiaries is missing a Flush option for the Nutrients.

I don’t think I ever had white powdery mildew and I was just noid of every little dust particle that came around. All good. I’m now battling high temps as we don’t have central air and it’s mid 90s outside. Most likely about to buy an ac unit. LST seemed to go ok but we shall see. Overall very pleased w my results so far. Cheers

No deficiencies thus far adding some molasses each feeding 1 tbls per gal water

12/25/2023-Germination Day 1 Merry X-mas 2023 I decided to start a run of SolFIre Gardens Hoodz Candyz S1. I am going to do a cup filled with RO water a touch of Hydrogen peroxide and let it sit for 24-48 hours until I see tap root then I am going to put it into a rapid rooter.. Tap root Down and put it about 1/4 of the say down the Rapid rooter. I made some modifications to my basket on this run.. I have taken a few Pods that I use for my cloning machine and decided that I am going to try and use them as sure plants, so that I can take my water right up to the bottom of the basket this time and see if these can make my planting more consistent.   12/26/2023-Germination Day 2 Tap root achieved Planting Commencing 12/27/2023-Germination Day 3 Misted the dome lightly misted the rapid rooter and added a little water to the bottom of the pan to encourage root growth to the pan. 12/28/2023-Germination Day 4 Ground Hogs day 12/29/2023- Germination Day 5 She is up, she has broken surface, I misted the root riot, and around the bottom of the tray to try and entice root growth down rapidly. 12/31/2023- Germination Day 6 Ground Hogs Day 1/1/2024-Germination Day 7 HAPPY NEW YEARS!!.. I did it I planned it out so my planting day would fall on New Years and it worked.. Yay!!! 1/2/2024- Germination Day 8 Since the roots are not to the water yet, I am pouring one cup of water lightly on the hydroton around the lady to try and encourage root growth down to the water.. 1/3/2024- Germination Day 9 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/4/2024- Germination Day 10 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/5/2024- Germination Day 11 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I am going to change the water Sunday and kick off Week 1, I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 12 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. I will just continue to top feed until roots are in the water.. Shouldn't be more than a few more days. 1/6/2024- Germination Day 13 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water. 1/7/2024- Germination Day 14 Ground Hogs day, will continue until roots hit the water.

Vamos familia cosecha de Original de GrowBarato. La verdad que el secado muy bien 7 días en Malla y a los botes, 40% humedad y 24 grados es la temperatura ambiental que han tenido en el secado. Por lo demás de miedo os la recomiendo. Gracias Agrobeta y Mars hydro , sin ellos este proyecto no sería igual 🙏. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Buenos humos.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

week four flower everything looks fine so far :D I water them with 1.5l every 48h the light I use was set to 100% and it hangs 80cm away from the tops

Week 6, and the second week on a 12/12 light cycle. This plant is starting to get hungry! 💥 This week, a full 5 liters of water: 3 liters with nutrients and 2 liters of plain water. The stretch phase has begun. I’m really happy with the results so far. As always, stay tuned! ♣️

Shes like a completely different plant now, lovely growth everywhere Lights have been switched to 12/12 I want to get her out of the tent so i can have my lights on 18/6 and keep running autos