Trichomes trichomes !! What a beautiful plant 🌱 to grow , not big bud producers but absolutely coated.u can definitely tell it’s got the GCS in her , Terps are getting stronger now that really forum cut Girl Scout cookies terps with some creamy peanut tons . The stretch is about over now

So this week I am starting to notice some watering issues I have cause early in the veg cycle I should have a payed a little more attention but noticed that I habe water logged my soil in a single plant causing soil lock and not completely drying out like the others between watering I will try to correct course this finally week of veg before changing over to flower. But the smells are definitely stronger excited to see this last bit of growth and it's time to start taking clones for another run

-Began flowering at the beginning of the week -Watering every second day -Will give a small top dress soon of Gaia Green all purpose

2.2. - Seems like I'm still doing something wrong. My plants got more yellow. Watered 💧 4.2. - I've added and adjusted some wires. Also, I've decided to defoliate a bit...at least the most yellow parts. Buds are swelling and getting more frosty each day ❄️ 5.2. - Watered 💧 7.2. - I think that I am making the rookie mistake of underwatering and that's the cause of yellowing of plants closest to the LED. Let's hope it that ✌️ Watered 💧 8.2. - Week wrap-up: It seems like plants like more water. Buds are getting more fat and sugar coated each day ❄️ Also the smell got more strong and bit fruity when touching them 🍎 🍦 2.2. - 8.2.2024

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Esta semana engordaron bastante las flores, los últimos dos dias de esta semana deje de regar con nutrientes, pura agua 🚿 para empezar el flush

Super sour grape(small it was stunned early ) Bruce strawberry Fumes Watermelon Zkittles Fumes

d39 ya no me caben dentro del Indoor, debajo del foco pequeño que tengo. Todavía se espera lluvia para la semana que viene, pero no caben y temo que alguna se ponga a florar por estrés, entonces las sacaré al exterior y las aclimataré. d40 Las he sacado a exterior , no les da mucho el sol, están a media sobra, esperemos que no se pongan a florar debido al cambio de fotoperiodo, son menos horas que en el Indoor, podía pasar, lo bueno es que las hemos sacado y ahora cada día están aumentando las horas de luz, mas o menos cada día tenemos 2 minutos más de sol, uno por la mañana y otro por la noche, amanece antes y se va más tarde poco a poco, si se adaptan bien, van a crecer mucho, pero si se ponen a floración veremos que hacemos, esperemos que no pase. Se le han puesto unas piedras para que se aguante la maceta, es de 2LT y con que haga viento la maceta se va al suelo y no queremos que pase eso. También se ha quitado el primer par de nodos LBP(Lower Branch Pruning), que normalmente salen ramas que no llegan a ser gran cosa. Se han quemado del sol, se ve que les da directo y no lo han soportado y se han secado, la tierra esta bastante seca al igual que muchas hojas, por suerte me he dado cuenta al cabo de unas horas, no esperaba que el sol ya pegase tan fuerte, las he cambiado de sitio y se han puesto donde no da el sol directo en ningún momento del día y están solamente a la sombra. Se han regado con un poquito de agua para que se recuperen, les he puesto una maceta más grande por fuera para que si diese el sol, que no le de a la maceta de dentro(2L) que es más pequeña y se calientan las raíces. d42 Se han regado y añadido aminoácidos(más Pro XXL 42% Aminoácidos) ya que eso ayudará a que la planta se recupere, por la tarde-noche les da el sol, no hay otro sitio que le de menos el sol directo, se han secado un pelín más la hojas, pero los brotes nuevos están blanditos y parece que las plantas seguirán creciendo bien.

Growing decently,getting a good root zone for transplant in the next few weeks

Week 6..looks great..

Nice and steady, some stretching but nothing too extreme only a few centimeters. Flowers are looking great.

It’s growing pretty good. I’ve been debating on topping it or doing some LST on it 🤔

Start of week 7! Repeating the week 6 feed schedule as the Do-si-dos is on a 9 week flowering time frame, based on the info from Canuk. This girl is sticky, buds continue to get fatter and denser and she has a sweet aroma to her!

Halli, Hallo, Hallöle liebe Growfreunde 🤗🤗, Heute ist BT 18 und ich habe heute mal entlaubt und ganz leicht gelollipoppt. Ich wollte nicht zuviel lollipoppen, da ich denke dass die Sanlight Lampen eine sehr gute Tiefenwirkung haben, vorallem weil die aüßeren schräg hängen und der Lichtstrahl sich quasi kreuzt. Die Entwicklung in dieser Woche war, genauso wie die letzten Wochen, sehr entspannt. Alles ist gut verlaufen und der stretch lässt sich jetzt auch endlich sehen. Die Gorilla Zkittlez ist leder nicht mehr viel gewachsen und die Sweet ZZ lässt auch zu wünschen übrig zwecks stretch, aber was solls, lecker ist es auf jedenfall

Day 56 This plant is clearly in a much better state than the others. The leaves are standing more firmly with a strong, healthy green color across most of the canopy. There’s no significant drooping, and overall it shows good vigor. One of the standout differences is the structure: it has developed many more internodes compared to the stressed plants. The spacing is consistent, giving the plant a dense framework with plenty of future bud sites. This compact but vigorous growth suggests the roots are functioning well and nutrient uptake is steady. While there are still a few minor signs of stress here and there, the plant overall looks balanced and much more capable of handling the transition into flowering. The canopy is filling out nicely, and it already shows strong potential for multiple tops to develop evenly. Compared to the weaker plants, this one feels “on track” — healthy, structured, and ready to keep building momentum. The priority now is to maintain stable conditions, avoid overwatering, and let the plant continue its natural growth without unnecessary interference.

I'm expecting at least another week on the hubba bubba as it's getting nice and thick, and I haven't noticed any new pistols form in a few days. The ABxRKO is still trucking, and it makes me excited for the next drop that tree1four did. It smells heavy on the burger side, but not super meaty. It has a slightly sweet gassy meaty smell to it.

Plant looks good to me. I have removed some lower branches that I didn't feel were going to produce much.

Another great healthy week