I wanna try some clear trichs

Here we go 😊 Planning & germination 👍 I´m really looking forward to this run, the SpectrumX from Medicgrow with build in PPFD, 4 spectrums V1, F1, VS, FS and 880 Watt is definitely serious business 👊 Trying out a new soil in this grow. The plant mulch is an exclusive mixture of harped mulch, nutrient-rich natural fertiliser, hill sand and long-term matured compost. The mixture provides a porous and airy structure, which ensures that both water and nutrients are easily accessible to the plant's roots. Stay tuned and Keep it green 😎

09/26/2020 She is almost done, I gave her a little trim most trichomes are milky still some clear I think about a week before she is done. Hope she gets fat!

Last few days for the chunkadelic possibly one more week checking trichomes daily from now on

D

13 Out - 22o dia- A planta atingiu os 13 cm e 4 folhas reais, uma boa altura para começar com os fertilizantes, 4 ml de Root Juice e 2 ml de Bio Heaven e Active-Vera por cada litro (2 L Total) 16 Out - 25o dia - Regada com a mesma mistura. 19 Out - 28o dia - Transplantei a planta para um vaso maior (7,5 L), ainda não estava pronta completamente Root bounded mas acho que mais vale antes que depois. Regada com 4 litros de água com 16 ml de Root Juice, 4 ml de Fish-mix e 8 ml de Bio Heaven e Active-Vera. Continua...

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Week 4 looks good gorilla zkittlez it’s beginning to flowering I will amend the soil soon

Gracias al equipo de Seedsman y XpertNutrients sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Alaskan Do-Si-Dos: Alaskan Do-Si-Dos ha sido desarrollada por expertos como una versión mejorada de la siempre popular variedad Alaskan Purple de Seedsman. La introducción de la genética Do-Si-Dos en la Alaskan Purple ha creado un híbrido índica/sativa que aumenta la potencia y el rendimiento al mismo tiempo que mejora el perfil de sabor y sigue siendo versátil en lo que respecta al cultivo en exterior. La Alaskan Do-Si-Dos está destinada principalmente al cultivo al aire libre y en invernaderos. Las plantas crecen altas y prosperan en climas fríos, templados, cálidos y secos, al mismo tiempo que se desempeñan bien en altitud. Esto no impide que se cultive en interior, pero estas plantas grandes necesitarán mucho espacio. Las plantas muestran una resistencia moderada al moho pero, si se cultivan en interiores, hay que tener en cuenta que son RUIDOSAS, por lo que se beneficiará del uso de filtros de aire de carbón. En exterior, en latitudes septentrionales, la cosecha está prevista para finales de septiembre, mientras que en interior las plantas tardarán entre 8 y 10 semanas en completar la floración. Los rendimientos en exterior son muy altos y pueden superar fácilmente los 750gr/planta, mientras que en interior los rendimientos son elevados, hasta 600gr/m2. Los cogollos maduros tienen una densidad media y mantienen un color verde medio. 🌻🚀 Consigue aqui tus semillas: https://www.seedsman.com/eu-es/alaskan-do-si-dos-feminised-seeds-sman-aldsd-fem 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 2: Gran primera semana, ella ha dado un gran estiron estos días, si sigue así será una gran cosecha. Esta semana se practica defoliacion, poda de ramas bajas y se le agrega Sticky Fingers . La carpa está ocupada al 100%, sigue una floracion explosiva gracias a @Marshydro y @Xpertnutrients y @Trolmaster con esta gran genética 💪. Potencia de la lámpara: 70%

Here you see the wild Berry cake show that it’s male. Bagged and chopped sprayed down every thing to make sure there was no pollen floating around. No sacks seemed to be open yet. Also added a trellis net for the wedding cake x banana buttercups. Week 2 is over.

Great plant. Amazing harvest!!!

After two full weeks of water cup and covered germination station, transplanted all seedlings into 1 qt pots with Fox Farms Happy Frog soil. 13/15 plants seem to be taking well to the transplant. Two of the watermelons and one of the critical are struggling and may end of being tossed. Was struggling to keep temps up with the LED lights off so a ceramic heater set at 70 deg F was added. I also added 2 DIY C02 generators using 2 cups of sugar and 2 tsp of active dry yeast for each generator to try and boost the C02 levels is a bit.

Hey everyone :-). There is not much to tell this week ☺️ A Wonder Pie was removed due to lack of space. So this is still going on here and the diary of the cup :-) It is growing very nicely, and I am looking forward to seeing what she is doing this week 🙏🏻 This week she is getting some Enhancer Green House Bio for the first time. I wish you all a nice week 👍 Stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow ☘️🌱

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

! this is my current status, gonna upload my last veg weeks within the next week - got a bit busy around Spannabis - thank you for your understanding! 💚 Welcome to Bud Boutique Grow Diary - really appreciate all your love and support :) Dont forget to check out my other current grows! 🗓️ This Week: - Day 24: attaching once a week APTUS Foliar with Regulator & Nutrispray with the amazing CannaFogger by Petra Grow - Day 28: bud development is super beautiful and praying up Thank you for still staying with me 💚 ___________________________________________ --- 🌱 Strain (Sponsor) --- 🏷️ Blue Cinderella 99 FF by MSNL https://www.marijuana-seeds.nl/blue-cinderella-99-fast-flowering --- 🥗 Nutrients and Feeding (sponsored by APTUS: APTUS Ambassador) --- 🍸 APTUS: full nutrient schedule extreme -- Regulator, N-Boost, P-Boost, CaMg-Boost, K-Boost, Allin1 Liquid, Startbooster, Topbooster, Enzym+ every feeding -- Fulvic-Blast, NutriSpray as Foliar each once a week 🔗 https://aptus-holland.com/ --- ♻️ Grow Control (Sponsor) --- TROLMASTER: TENT-X + LM14 Light Adapter to dim/sunrise/sunset lights + Temp & rH Sensor all remote on App 🔗 https://www.trolmaster.eu/ --- 🚿 PetraGrow (Sponsor) --- CannaFogger Foliar Spray 🔗 https://www.petratools.com/product/petragrow-cannafogger-atomizer-new-mini-fogger --- 🏭 Grow Setup --- 💡LUMATEK Zeus Pro 600 * 🏠🌿 Indoor: Homebox 120x120x200cm (4x4) * 📐🌀 PrimaKlima exhausting Fan 1180m3/h (running on 60-80%) * 🌀 Can Light Filter 800m3/h & 1x Fanbox 1x Dyson fan for Air circulation 🔗 https://lumatek-lighting.com/zeus-600w-pro-29/ 🔗 https://primaklima.com/de/shop/ventilatoren-de/ec-ventilatoren/pk160ec-tc/ 🔗 https://canfilters.com/products/filters/ All Likes and comments are highly appreciated!!! 👨‍🌾 don't forget to check out my Instagram for daily educational content: budboutiquee - Bud Boutique

This is my first grow, felt like now is the perfect time to start. 😅 Picture 1 - The plants will have a 24h schedule with both sun and LED light. The solution with the cloth in front of the window is only temporary, I need something thats easy to pull up as soon as the sun comes out. My light is about 16in/37cm away from the plants, please let me know if its too close or too far away from the seedlings. Up until this point I germinated both the seedlings using one of those 'Easy Start' Kits with Microorganisms, I then just transplanted both plants with the soil still attached to them in the final pots. I am using Bio Bizz Light Mix for the soil. In about 1 week I will start adding the fertilizers, I will go with about half of what it says on the nutrient schedule because these are autoflowers. Picture 2 - Day 1 - Seedling number 1 is looking healthy. (I think?) As you can see I put a hygrometer next to it so I can monitor the Humidity and Temperature levels. I currently have a humidifier running next to the plants and humidity levels seem to be good so far. I read online between 65-80% are good at this stage. Picture 3 - Day 1 - Seedling number 1 again. At this stage I only water around the plant and dont soak the whole pot, I read that soaking the whole pot while the plant is this tiny can overwhelme the plants. I also noticed that the leaves look kinda yellow-ish? Please let me know if thats normal. Picture 4 - Day 1 - Seedling number 2. I need help with this one I dont know why but he doesnt look good, from the beginning he was much slower than plant 1 and when he finally popped out he looked like he was dying, he is kind of gaining a little bit of color now again but I dont know if he will make it. If you know whats wrong with him please let me know. I hope he opens his two little leafs soon. I still have a third seed laying around so please let me know if it'd be smarter to just abandone number 2 and germinate a new seed. Thanks for reading this far and I'll update as frequent as possible. Day 1 Issues Update - After taking a look at seedling number 2 again and seeing that after all this time it still didnt show any progress, I noticed that one of the two first leaves is actually cut. I mustve damaged it while inspecting earlier because I, (stupid newbie move), touched it too much or whatever. Now germinating my last seed in hopes that all goes well. Since I dont have anymore 'Easy Start' kits im going to try a different germination method, I will put the seed in a cup of water with a piece of cardboard on top of it overnight (12-15h) and then plant it into the moist soil afterwards. 😄 Picture 5 - Day 2 - Seedling 1 is still doing fine. In the morning the temperatures went up a lot (29 Celsius), due to the sun shining a lot through the window, and the seedling was showing slight signs of heat stress (Leafs going up and small yellow-is tint), I then opened the window and the Temperatures quickly dropped back to normal (20-23 Celsius). Moisture levels seem lower than yesterday and Im not sure why (probably because of the heat and opening the window?), still at a solid 62% tho so Im not too bothered. Picture 6 - Day 2 - Since my last Seedling 2 died I germinated another one, I put it in a glass of water over night (~15h) and then planted it into the soil. Hopefully it'll pop out in the next few days... 💪 Picture 7 - Day 3 - Everything looking good with Seedling 1, I kinda felt like it was sort of streching too much instead of growing its leaves, so I put the light closer to it. I will water again tomorrow, the last time I watered was when I put it in the soil 3 Days ago. Picture 8 - Day 3 - The new Seedling 2 is still germinating and will hopefully pop out of the soil in the next few days. Picture 9 - Day 4 - Seedling 1 still going strong, leaves are praying but I read that that is a good sign. I watered both pots again today with just Ph-water, will add fertilizer in about 3 days for seedling 1. Seedling 2 is still germinating, will post a new picture as soon as it pops out of the soil. 😉 Picture 10 - Day 5 - Seedling 1 looks healthy, but is going kinda slow. Turns out I had the light far too high... 😐 Pulled it as much down as I could now and its already growing better! Main indicator for not enough light was the stretching and the thin leaves. I will probably have to invest into a bigger setup as soon as flowering hits. ✊ Picture 11 - Day 6 - Seedling 1 leaves are getting bigger and the next set is already on the way. Picture 12 - Day 6 - After 4 days germination, seedling 2.1 finally popped out the soil! 👏 Picture 13 - Day 7 - Seedling 1 leaves seem a bit curled up, probably because of the hot sun this morning, Im not too worried tho. Will water with nutrients the first time tomorrow. Picture 14 - Day 7 - Seedling 2.1 looking fine, soil was pretty dry so I watered it a bit with ph water.

Let’s go day 72 from seed!!! Another great week it’s been , 2 Ogreberrys an brucy b been flushing for a week, an the 3 others will continue to get there normal feed of nutrients, they are just not quite ready so they will start getting flushed around next week!! Sweet sweet smell of Grapes And gooey frosty nugs is all I can really say, photos do no justice, some of the craziest fruitiest smelling buds I’ve ever had, Real High quality meds !! Hope you all enjoy an have an amazing productive day as well as a great week!! Peace love an positive vibes to all y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻If there’s any questions, please ask!! 💚🙏🏻💯

Se va terminando el mes de Marzo y ya se cosecharon las Double Cookies, con un riquisimo aroma pero por sobretodas las cosas con una resina muy pagajosa y abundante. Ya se van al secadero Las lebrones las mantenemos un poquito mas pero tambien estan explotadas. Tumbadas por el peso de los propios cogollos.