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Que hay familia, vamos con la segunda semana de vida de estas Candy Rain de Zamnesia, para el concurso POWER BUDS Plagron x Zamnesia CONTEST. Vaya color que estirón que han pegado , se ven bien sanas. Esta vez regué con una aplicación de Sugar Royal, 1 ml x litro de agua , por supuesto controlando siempre el Ph, que ahora mismo lo dejamos en 6. Eche unas gotas de flash root que es enraizante y ahora está próxima semana se viene trasplante. E practicado una apical a 1 de 5 porque en el armario pondré 4 y como me sobra una pues la dejaré en otro indoor, aún así subiré fotos igualmente. Hasta aquí es todo, la segunda semana de crecimiento superada, iremos viendo cómo progresan. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Hasta aquí todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.
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the buds are getting fat. it likes lots of nutes. showing slight fade now on the super green leaves... cant really say ive done much this week. the buds smell a bit rank though if im honest but getting super dense!
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Bud sights are building! Starting to get real existed about the next few weeks!! Had some drought issues around oct 21 from my lack of watering, shocked how much they drink! Starting to fill in a lot, will do a little trimming & tucking next week & do it's first feeding.
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Ooops I made some mistakes lol all gravy teachable moment …I really think I got a ghost in my grow op lol….anyone recommend an exorcist …im scared lol
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This week focused on recovery and light nutrition support before flipping to flower. On Sept 17, all three photoperiods were top-dressed with worm castings, kelp, and fish bone meal to help correct lingering deficiencies and strengthen root development. Oracle OG continued showing pale foliage through most of the week, with only minor signs of improvement toward the end. She’s still in recovery, but new growth remains consistent and the structure is holding up well. Blue Bitch stayed vigorous and dark green, showing no stress and maintaining excellent leaf tone. Strawberry Cola Sherbet remained slightly lighter in color but stable overall, showing a healthy rate of new growth. Watering was light since the soil retained moisture after the top-dress, and no major training adjustments were made. Temperatures held around 77–82°F with 55–60% RH. This was a steady week focused on letting the amendments settle and giving the plants time to rebuild strength before the transition to flower.
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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@thonhash
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Subimos algo más los ml de terranabis,buena asimilación y engorde,gracias a enzynabis que busca el equilibrio de todo.
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Hey everyone ☺️. It gets more beautiful from week to week 😍👍. I have them all this week Sprayed again properly with neem oil in the veggie phase ☺️. There have been no trips for 2 weeks, but prevention is better 😀. Because of the neem oil, the plants look very dark and shiny, which I really like when they shimmer like that 😝. With a heavy heart I unfortunately had to sort out a phenotype for reasons of space but it is not bad because the pheno did not have to die but was allowed to see the light of a friend 😃👍 I didn't do any training these days, that will be done again the next few days 👌. it was watered twice this week with around 0.6 l per plant. The Ph / Ec measuring device was also recalibrated. Otherwise there is nothing to report for this week and we'll see you again with the next update ☺️👍. I wish you and your families a Merry Christmas 😊. Stay healthy and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.royalqueenseeds.de/feminisierte-hanfsamen/115-amnesia-haze.html Type: Amnesia Haze ☝️🏼 Genetics: Original Amnesia Haze 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
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@rvabudman
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Topping appears to be working well. Began some LST via tie down to encourage growth to other branches.
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@Diaaz
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This is last week before harvest. No fertilizer only water this week for flushing. The stems began to break, see you after next 2 weeks after drying :)
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@GanjOS_OG
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First week of Veg is done after the propagator tent. Clones looking good so far - getting healthy again. Startet LST.
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Week 6 flower, half way there! Buds are starting to fill in now and getting some decent frost. A couple of tops are getting more light than others, and fattening a bit more and looking real nice. It looks like there is some purple starting to come out at the tops. She is strong and will go as fast as the soil and environmental conditions will allow her to. Hand watered in Gaia Green Soluble Seaweed Extract 0-0-17, otherwise water drip is running on same schedule. Just using straight tap water that sits in a 30 gallon reservoir with a submergible water pump running 24/7 breaking surface and aerating water. Water comes out the tap @ 7ph and less than 15ppm. So I don’t do nothing to it, I drink it:) Thanks for the view 🤜 Have a great week!
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Let’s Go day 29!! This week went real nice ! Girls are staying very healthy and building up nicely and even started showing signs of female sex which is super great ! We started doing a little bit of leaf tuck training method on em , nothing to big as like I said I want these girls just to do there thang an grow more on naturally side! My Air temp and Humidity have been on point all week, staying from 70-75 degrees throughout the day and humidity staying around 58-61% humidity , my girls are loving that summer an 75 feeling !! Can’t wait to see what we do this week ! Hopefully you all enjoy, and are ready for another great productive week ! Peace love an positive vibes to y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨🤙🏻Happy Grows✌️🏻Week 4 let’s get it !
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Week 8, the last feed! Defoliated to let more air flow and light penetrate down into the lowers of the plant. Bud's are insanely sticky, plant is covered in frost, the pics don't do it justice.
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Still looking great sturdy strong and very green and very pest-resistant .
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🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 Welcome to the harvest, dear friends!! 😘 The Sacitrus Bomb Auto was a real diva, not that she needed special attention but look how she turned out!! 💄 😍 Amazing! A star is born! ⭐ A star got chopped.. 😁 Trimming went fast, and now I got many jars filled with yummy weed! 😋 Lucky me, blessed I am! 🙏 Thanks universe, thanks @SeedsMafia!! 🖤 Thanks, everybody!! 💚 💚 💚 Grower love!!! 😘🙏 🌱 ______________________________________________________________________ Rick Simpson Oil - very easy tutorial, fast recipe. Let's call it Fuego RSO.. 😎 you will need: 30g / 1 ounce trim or flowers, ground coarsely or blitzed 1 litre alcohol (better the expensive one which is food safe, butthen it would be nice to have a distiller to catch it.. so i take rubbing alcohol 99,9%) a cheap rice cooker, you need to be able to operate it with an open lid, and it needs to switch to keep warm function by itself! a USB cup heater a container for mixing the weed with the alcohol, made from ceramic or glass or something a stick for stirring a container to catch the green liquid (alcohol is magically dissolving many colors and other things so make sure you use the right materials here) a straining cloth, sieve, coffee filter etc to seperate the plant material from the green alcohol trichomes solution a scraper or spatula a heat proof glass to put on the USB heater for last finish a glass container or cyringe to store the finished oil some coconut oil and some small glass jars ° first you pour half of your alcohol over the flowers or trim and then stir for several minutes ° sieve the material, catch the green liquid ° put the material back into the bowl and mix with the other half of the alcohol, repeat ° put the minimum demanded amount of liquid in the rice cooker and switch on, stay there!!! keep the lid a bit open, this is really prone to catch fire now. i do it in the garden when it's windy.. DON'T SMOKE NOW! 😃 ° frequently pour more and more of the liquid in the rice cooker, until all is gone, you can add 2-3 drops of water.. it will prevent burning. ° there will be a brown sticky mass left, scrape this mass into the heat proof glass and out on the USB heater until there are no bubbles coming out anymore (all the alcohol should be gone) ° fill into the cyringes or containers as long as it's warm!! this is hell! ° pour some coconut oil in the warm rice cooker and dissolve the remaining RSO (this makes a good THC loaded skin treatment!), same with the glass container ° when first consuming this, try half the size of a rice grain, wait until the next day, then adjust the dosage get well soon!! 💚🙏😘 _________________________________________________________________________________ SETUP: 80x80x180 cm Zelsius 240W Full Spectrum LED IR UV dimmable DW240H-A6-HS Heatsink color red LED Chips: 512pcs SAMSUNG LM301H + 24pcs Osram 660nm + 8pcs Osram IR 730nm + 8pcs UV 385nm Color mix: 2700K + 4000K 2,8umol/J Driver HLG-240H-C2100B Coverage: veg 5x3ft / flower 4x2ft Product size: 628x205x68mm Green Buzz Nutrients Shouts go out to my sponsors @GreenBuzzNutrients, thanks so much for your support! ❤️ If anyone would like to try their amazing organic products, use code GD42025 for generous 25% discount (for orders of minimum 75€) ✨ https://greenbuzznutrients.com/ Mills Nutrients Biobizz Lightmix custom exhaust fan 320/270cm³/h Carbon Active Granulate 240cm³/h tab water pH 8 - EC 0,25 with Calmag to 0,5 Advanced Hydroponics pH minus Grow + Bloom to pH 6.2 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭 🍊 🍋 🍮 🍭
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@J_diaz420
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Solamente defoliación mientras las veo crecer en su prefloracion.