Both are growing strong, amazing the kind of growth my light creates, girls seem to be loving it! Hope to start LST on the older lady soon (Thelma). Happy growing y'all!

Woche: 03 Blüte 15-21 / 43-49 27.07-02.08 / Licht 100/50 VPD: 1,0 Höhe: 63cm PPFD: 768 DLI: 33,2 Temperatur Tag: 27,7 Temperatur Nacht: 23,8 Luftfeuchtigkeit: 62,4 Hatte die Woche bisl mit der Luftfeuchtigkeit zu kämpfen. Werd Anfang nächster Woche den Entfeuchter aufstellen. Ansonsten läuft alles ganz gut, war paar Tage weg und als ich wiederkam waren sie sehr sehr ausgetrocknet, nach 2 Liter Wasser und bisl warten war zum Glück alles wieder so wie es sein soll. An Blütetag 21 wurde gelollipoppt, diesmal nicht ganz so viel wie beim letzten Grow. Zusätzlich gab es am Blüte Tag 21 noch Bio Tabs Bio PK 5-8 8ml pro Pflanze verdünnt auf 1 Liter Wasser.

Did ok with this one, she had deficiency into week 7. Not as large as previous runs SLH but she turned out. Will return in a month or so with dry weight. May try out disco ball motor and round clip rack to dry. Like bud chandelier but cheap from Amazon but I wait for a week. Planted 4/9 chopped 7/2 with quite a few amber trichs.

Had great results, especially when i upgraded to RO water.. if theres one thing i could of changed it would of been using the reverse Osmosis water sooner. The rest of the grow was pretty easy, didn't even plant train as this was suppose to be a hassle free run. It was just that. Some good genetics from seedstockers too. Good stuff!

Alright.. this was the first week of real flowering i believe.. I had 3 tops rot/burn ? I dont believe its rot.. but lets see.. I cut the tops out as good as possible.. I will slow down with the pk 13/14 this week... Got some sugar royal from plagron, gave her that aswel last week... She does seem to be happy... lets hope she will be fine ... See u guys again next week 👍🌴

Lets work it out. Max Co2-Light-Feeding. Does Auto can become Photoperiodic?!!! Yield?! Quility?! Lets try to build up HULKAll topping are done. Now just time to build up nice colas

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis La récolte approche à grands pas

DAY 27, most of the plants are flowering, LST works so well. I'm worried because some of them seems to have advance, I don't think the buds should be that big for their age, maybe the heat stress made them flowering faster ? Moreover, some plants have their lower leaves turning yellow, I don't know what it is, give them nutrients once every 2 watering and I'm being very light with the amount of nutrients. Ordered 2 cooltubes, one for each light, it will help to cool down the room, gotta pick them up at the store and use them today. DAY 33, I followed your advices guys and added a bit of each nutrients for their deficiencies, don't know exactly if it was Ca, Mg or N deficiency but I can tell how better they are ! Water pH between 6,2 and 6,5 with 3acid down, hygro 55%. Because of the lower hygro for flowering stage, temp is going higher, I'll try my best to take care of them because another heat wave is coming... Thinking about reducing the light time to 12/12

Esta semana tome la decisión de cortar una planta anticipadamente, obviamente la más avanzada y madura de todas (la de las fotos con flash), para poder llenar la despensa, obviamente se guardó el peso para añadirlo al peso final. Se quitó la malla y se hizo defoliación para terminar el engorde, quedando solo 3 plantas al menos 1 semana o dos a que terminen de dar lo que tienen que engordar, ya veremos 👍

Sorry I missed missed several weeks. Gd was not working right, and I choose not to fight it once it rejected any update. She has filled out the tent. I increased the light to 100 percent today. I will likely do some hst to keep buds out of the light. She has been doing great so far this time in a warmer environment. Thank you Doctor's Choice, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Hey guys :-) . Today the plant was sprayed again with neem oil. There weren't any more trips to be seen after the second application, but to be on the safe side, you did it again today get a cure. That's why the beautiful dark shimmer on the leaves :-). It was poured this week 1 time with 0.2 l because the roots are from clones should only spread in the substrate. (For nutrients see table above) The fact that the lady gets a very long time in the veggie phase I started topping for the first time today after taking the pictures. in the coming weeks LST and will certainly be used topping a few times. Otherwise everything was cleaned and, as always, everything was checked. Have fun with the update and stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.thegratefulseeds.com/shop/feminized-seeds/limited-edition/blue-javaz/ Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

She’s filling up faster than I can feed her! Lower canopy is already starting to cannibalize and die off, nothing to worry about because she’s still praying and healthy! A lot of thickness and frost has already established, in expecting one final push over the next couple weeks before she’ll be in the ripening stage. Smells like sweet musty kush candies. I love it.

I’m to busy soryy

It was an invaluable experience growing outdoors. In general, we can safely conclude that it is not recommended to plant photoperiod plants at my latitude, you need to look towards early stains. Upd: From part of the harvest, I prepared cannabutter, the cooking process in the photo) Upd2:Warning:! A very strong concentrate is taught, not for beginners!

I topped both plants once thus far, cleared their lower nodes up to the 3rd node on "nemo" and 4th on "v" names are easier then saying seed 1 and seed 4. added pics and video of day 34/35 for these two. hope y'all can stand the slight off hue from grow light. pics/vids are taken on phone camera thru grow room glasses, when watered the 3 gal pots are heavy and not easy to yank out for a picture.

This lady was looking absolutely stunning but I had to reduce her height, too tall to be in the balcony guys, let's see how this lady keeps developing

Podamos bajos y seguimos🤟🤟🤟

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.