Back on track today is Day 35. In the past I have fed lightly I dont like burnt tips but with the variety of strains in this grow with the co2 I bumped it up a little. Some strains like the Polar Vortex 6 are much more sensitive than some others so it was unavoidable. Other than the tips they are all doing pretty well. The Cherry kush mints in the 4x8 in my eyes is clearly a beast it had the shortest veg time and caught up to most of the big girls. Also its development has been impressive with a unique terp profile at this stage. The sleeper is the garlicane 5. I've grown most of these once or twice before but with the upgrades and the co2 that one has developed nicely and looks like it will put on some serious weight. Things will start to heat up over the next couple weeks. See my IG for some promo codes @bangdangbuds

HEY GANG UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!! SOOO the girls are looking great I'm super pumped on these 2 girls I've been doing nutrient feeds one on one off so basically alternate nutrient feedings, looks really great stepped up water feeding to one gallon of water per plant, but other then that things are progressing really great keep it going growmies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Responding well to the top Fed with lotus: 4/12/26

5/4 I stupidly watered everything this morning. They were pretty much perfect weight for transplant......then I watered them. Oh well. If that's the worst mistake I make I'll be ecstatic. Went back over and found my 1 gal and 2 of those wierd slanty airports that tapers and holds like a gallon and a half and washed them. I mixed up 12 gallons of soil in a garbage bag and mixed it thoroughly with my gloved hands. It's mixed good. Looking at my plants in sadness thinking, "today could've been the day" and noticed a Special Kush of average size I didn't water that weighed in the 220's. I was happy. I filled the pit arpund a cup before removing it leaving the perfect hole. Mykos and water were poured in. Plant came out of the cup REALLY easy. Suprisingly easy. This wasn't totally dry. I was amazed it came out so easy so I kinda rolled it around looking at the roots. I started lowering it in the hole and I felt something break away but it webt DIRECTLY into the hole made for it. I tucked some soil around it but it was pretty tight from packing it around the empty cup. Didn't take a picture but the plant is fine. That was an average size plant too. So I may have to give some of the strains I popped later a little longer before I transplant. After everything's been transplanted I'll need to change lighting again. I think I'll open the window and use the hps and the l.e.d on the days and nights cThat's these girls won't be hardening off. I so wanna go plant those others but my intuition tells me to wait until morning and it's been serving me well. A couple can stay in cups longer. Not much longer but still. 5/5 Transplanted everything but two this morning into 1 gals with 1/2 happy frog half ocean forest. Mykos and water used during transplant. Found put the l.e.d was on for 24hrs for a while. I made sure the timer switch was ON but it was a different cord plugged in. Oh well. All transplants went perfect. I'm picking up an adapter for the outlet so I can plug the power strip into the timer and only use one timer. I had to hang the 150watt hps back up with the 1,000 watt equivelant 105 true watts. I hope this lighting setup works. Chemdog #4 and One MK Ultra will be transplanted later today or later in the morning. I also opened the shade to the south facing window. Shits getting real. EDÌT: I FINISHED TRANSPLANTING THE LAST TWO PLANTS AND PICKED UP THE ADAPTER SO I COULD HANG THE HPS NEXT TO THE L.E.D. THEY WERE FIBE WHILE I WAS GONE. EASIEST TRANSPLANTS EVER. THEY ALL LOOKED PERKY AND HAPPY SIX OR SEVEN HOURS POST TRANSPLANT. I OPENED THE CURTAIN TO (SOUTH FACING WINDOW) BUT I MADE SURE THE PLANTS WEREN'T IN THE DIRECT LIGHT. EVEN THOUGH IT WOULD PROBABLY BE FINE. LAST TIME I HAD SEEDLING IN DIRECT LIGHT. I'LL PLAY IT BY EAR BUT IM HAPPY. EDIT 2. Went back over to meditate by the stream and do my qigong. It's 75 and BEAUTIFUL today. The girls will be going out for a few hours on days like this. Anyway when I went in I was surprised to see everything looking nice and happy with praying leaves. Nothing is in direct sunlight but damn that window let's in a lot of light. 5/6 Girls LOVED the transplant! They seem to be all happy. No stress. Easiest transplant I've done. Leaves are praying upwards so I think the lights are approx tje right distance. They'll be going outside soon to harden off. It's been in the 70s but it's rainy now. I'll play it by ear according to weather. I'll continue to monitor lighting and I may lower the hps. 5/7 The soil was super dry when I went over this morning. Everything looked awesome though. I used about a half gallon watering. I don't want to water to run off. I want to keep the nutes IN the soil. It's also easier to fix an undet watered plant than an over watered one. It came out to about a half gaterade bottle on the biggest and half that on the smallest. I'll gradually increase water after I monitor the response. The water sat on the soil for quit a while so they definitely needed it. Looking good so far. 5/8 Soil lookeddry this morning. I think I'm going to up the water. Last time I dod seeds I gave like a pink. Some plants still had a little dampness where I watered that I could see. Others looked dry but happy. I gave the REAL dry bigger ones a small circle around the rootball. Just in case. I'm thinking of lowering the hps slightly so it's at least level with tje L.E.D. That window being open gives tons of light. If u moved them slightly left they'd get DIRECT sun most of the time. I'll be bringing them outside soon to start hardening them off. EDIT: WENT TO CHECK THE GIRLS AT 5 TO MAKE SURE THEY WERENT DRIED OUT. THESE GIRLS ARENT JUST GETTING BIGGER BY THE DAY THEYRE LOOKING BIGGER FROM MORNING TO NIGHT! ITS BEEN RAINING LIKE CRAZY BUT WE WILL HAVE GREAT WEATHER NEXT WEEK AND I'LL BE BRINGING THEM OUTSIDE. I'M SUPER HAPPY WITH GROWTH SO FAR. ILL PROBABLY HST (TOP/FIM) AT THE NEXT NODE. I WANT THEM TO SETTLE IN NICELY BEFORE STRESSING THEM. 5/9 I may have stupidly uploaded doubles of pictures from today. Soil LOOKED real dry. I gave the plants their first real watering. I still went light. Almost a gallon with all plants. I know many say I should be watering to runoff but I want to keep the nutes in the soul as long as I can I don't want to overwater. I always start out careful. Once they show they xan tolerate it I'll increase water next time. This weekend it will be raining but after that we are getting some real good weather and I'll he taking the girls out to begin hardening off. I also need to take a look and top/FIM the plants now that they are settled. Also need to wash grow bags and sanitize outside. 5/10 It's pouring out. Horrible night and morning but this is about cannabis. After the watering ALL the plants shot up in size! Substantially. Leaves are over the sides of containers. I think I'm somewhere close with the watering schedule. I may bring the hps light down a little. I also NEED to start HST. I need to FIM and/or top these girls. Unfortunately I've been dealing with medical problems of my wife so I haven't got to it. If I get some sleep I may do something this morning or in the afternoon.

Really nice plant. Very strong smell, Well THC coated buds and very nice effects. Lovely.

🔥🧀

Crece a una velocidad increíble, ya tuve que agregarle agua 😊 Estoy cambiando el agua del balde cada 15 días aprox

10 semanas pasadas desde la germinación, decidimos cosechar nuestra Cheese. De dinafem sorprendido por los resultados obtenidos. La cheese es una variedad sumamente olorosa, sus toques a queso se hacen notar y su resina cristalina y pegajosa Enamoran la vista de cualquiera ❤️

Hello. This is the end of week 11 and the beginning of week 12 of veg. They need to grow for another week before flipping to flowering. I'd like them a little bigger. They are doing good and growing well. OK. Have Fun. Chuck.

Journal de Culture – Semaine 1 : Transplantation du Clone La culture démarre avec une bouture de Mother Gorilla (Royal Queen Seeds), prélevée sur mon pied-mère. Après un enracinement en douceur, elle a été transplantée dans son nouvel environnement de croissance. Bonne nouvelle : le système racinaire s’est bien développé, signe que la transition s’est faite correctement ! Cette fois, j’ai bien veillé à maintenir une hygrométrie stable à 80 %, ce qui avait été un souci lors de ma précédente culture. Pour ça, j’ai investi dans un humidificateur AC Infinity qui fait très bien le job. Côté paramètres : • Éclairage : 18h de lumière • Humidité : 80 % • pH : 5,5 - 5,8 (légères corrections à faire) • Température de l’eau : 18°C Pour l’instant, la plante est encore en phase d’enracinement, mais ça se passe bien. On va voir comment elle évolue la semaine prochaine ! J’espère que cette variété réagira bien en hydroponie. Hâte de voir la suite ! 🇺🇸Grow Journal – Week 1: Clone Transplantation This grow cycle kicks off with a Mother Gorilla (Royal Queen Seeds) clone taken from my mother plant. After a smooth rooting process, she’s been transplanted into her new grow environment. Good news: the root system has developed well, which means the transition went smoothly! This time, I made sure to maintain a steady 80% humidity, something I struggled with in my last grow. To help with that, I picked up an AC Infinity humidifie and it’s working great. Key parameters: • Lighting: 18 hours • Humidity: 80% • pH: 5.5 - 5.8 (minor adjustments needed) • Water temperature: 18°C Right now, the plant is still in its rooting phase, but everything looks good so far. Let’s see how she progresses next week! I’m curious to see how this strain performs in hydro. Excited for what’s next!

Hey guys :-) They are developing very well :-) . Was watered twice this week with 1 l each (nutrients see table above) Maybe I'll train them this week. But I'll think about that spontaneously for reasons of space :-) . Otherwise everything is going according to plan and I wish you a lot of fun with the update and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

She's getting heavy. Buds are a bit too puffy for my taste. They feel hard and got plenty of mass but inside there are lots of tiny air pockets.

10/26: All but one are flowering now, and most are stretching. There are a few shorter ones, thankfully, so they'll get moved up to the top of the closet in another day or two and I'll have a little more room for the big girls to spread out a little bit. 10/27: I rearranged the garden a little bit today and checked whether they needed water or not. I foliar fed with Big Bloom and a little Tiger Bloom today. I'm seeing signs of potassium deficiency on several of them. 10/28: I watered everybody with about 1/4 gallon and included a little terpinator, cal-mag, bembe, and beastie bloomz. I uploaded a couple of photos showing some weird curling of the newest growth...just an odd varietal trait I think because I've seen it before on my Candy Cane F2's. 10/29: I rotated everybody on the edges and plucked some older, lower leaves. They are damn near totally dry, so flushing tomorrow. 10/30: I decided not to flush based partly on how shitty the weather is right now...and partly because I'm seeing some N deficiency signs in several plants and really can't afford to put off feeding them again until they dry after a 3-gallon flush. So, instead, I thoroughly watered everybody with about 3/4 gallon including cal-mag, myco/tricho, beneficial bacteria, humic acid, bembe, and terpinator. I let them sit in their catchment trays long enough to soak all the run-off back up, so they are fairly well saturated now with things that should make the roots really happy. I've added another oscillating fan and got the hygrostat set to kick on the exhaust whenever the humidity reaches 55%, so it's pretty much staying on right now. Hopefully they are dried back out by Friday so I can give them a last good dose of N to help with their stretch. I'll also start going heavy with P and K, and increase terpenoid and flavonoid enhancers. I'm gonna give Signal by True a try when I finish my current bottle of Terpinator. I just can't bring myself to keep paying over $60/gallon when I can get a gallon of Signal for under $40. While watering today, I emptied the closet completely and had plants all over the place...my cats were in heaven..stalking each other under the jungle canopy.😺 It really does amaze me that I'm fitting all these plants into such a small space..😳 10/31: I rotated the edge plants and checked their moisture level. I'll feed them tomorrow. 11/1: I took everybody out of the closet and did a little defoliating. I fed everybody with about a half-gallon including all the good stuff.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia