Week 5 of flower 9/6/24 After neglecting to check runoff EC, the reading was 3 and PH 4.7, it's crazy that the plant did not show any signs of damage besides one branch. After flushing the growing medium with RO water + FloraKleen + H2O2 (PH 6.5), the runoff PH was still to high. The problem persisted after watering with 50% dilution nutrient solution and still getting low PH readings and high EC. The solution was to put something underneath the fabric pot, to create a gap for the runoff water to drain freely from the bottom part. Before, the fabric pot was sitting on the plate and the runoff was draining from 2 little holes in the middle to the drain compartment. Right after creating the gap and watering, all the readings were corrected. Fortunately, all salt build up got washed away, and the plant showed no more problems. :) On day 26 days of flower, the nutrient schedule was changed to fit the fifth week of flower. Note to self: check PH and EC every 3 waterings.

Esta semana fue muy difícil para la planta pues me intentaron quemar la planta agregando jabón y le hice por 5 dias lavado de raiz y la dejé en sombra para recuperarla

Hi@all, this is the last week in the vegetative phase. Starting tomorrow it will be switched to 12/12. Looks quite good to my taste, except for too much light and too little fertilizer. Both light and fertilizing are somewhat under control for now (hopefully) I continue to enjoy trying to adjust all the values of the plant/nutritions and environment correctly and finding out what works well and what doesn’t. Grow Hard. Go Pro. 🌱😎👌

Started a little training this week. This plant is pretty bushy with tight nodes. Will be doing some more training and a little defoliation over the next week to get her ready for flower. Other than that, just watching and waiting

8/23 I WATERED THE NATURAL MK ULTRA AND THE 10TH PLANET IN THE BACK WITH A GALLON AND THE TWO TENS SPLIT A GALLON. It's hotter today and the wind is picking up. I wish I had gotten rid of that plant when I thought to. Oh well. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and treat things. Smell is increases as well as flower size. However I'm noticing more leaves that are yellowing and falling off. Smell has intensified. The special kush in late flower doesn't seem to be producing trichomes like it should. Or maybe it's still early. I see some but by this time I would think it would be frosty as hell! It's rained like once this summer. I've put tons of work into defoliating. I'm not sure if I'll try a controlled spray trying to avoid buds or if I should use a sponge and just hit every leaf. At least I'm seeing that the buds are still expanding and smelling despite these invisible Bastards. It's not like I see them. Even my traps only caught like one. I'll update as I go. EDIT: WATERED THE TENTH PLANET AND THE LATE SOECIAL KUSH 1 GAL. PLAN ON FEEDING TOMORROW. I DID A SHIT TON OF DEFOLIATION. I DONT SEE ADULT THRIPS BUT I SEE THE EGGS AND SHIT IN THE CREVICE AND SOMETHING IS COMING AND EARING SMALL LOWER FOLIAGE. I RIPPED TWO INTERIOR BRANCHES OFF THE PLANTS I TREATED BEFORE WITH CITRIC ACID BECAUSE I FOUND A COUPLE STOPS OF MOLD ON THE STEM. AFTER RESEARCHING THRIPS WITH A.I. UNTIL IT LITERALLY CHANGED PROTOVAL AND STOPPED HELPING ME SAYING IT DANT HELP CULT8VATE CANNABIS AFTER GIVING ME SEVERAL DIFFERENT INSTRUCTIONS AND OPTIONS. I SCREENSHOTTED THEM THOUGH. I USED THE SAME MIXTURE OF CITRIC ACID AMD DAWN ONLY HALF STRENGTH AND HIT THE 10TH PLANET AND PINK KUSH THAT ARE PATIENT ZERO. THEN I TOOK A SPONGE AND EITHER DEFOLIATED OR WIPED THE LEAVES WITH A SPONGE AND SAME CONCOTION ON THE SPECIAL KUSH IN THE TEN. I DEFOLIATED MORE AND THEN "SPOT TREATED" A FEW LEAVES ON A BOTTOM BRANCH OF THE 10TH PLANET WITH MITE X. I'M WAITING UNTIL THE MORNING TO SEE THE RESULTS AND BEFORE I MOVE FORWARD. I HAVE ORGANOCIDE BEE SAFE AND I KNOW IT WORKS GOOD BUT IT SMELLS LIKE SHIT. IM HOPING ILL FIGURE THIS OUT. 8/24 Didn't have time to do a video or take any pictures. I pit a lot of work in the garden yesterday. I removed a couple small branches that had mold on the stem. If I had listened to my intuition and moved that plant (instead of listening to my dad) I probably could've negated this mess. Windy as hell yesterday. Maybe that's why I don't see mich damage from the thrips. The runt in the 50 has some silver ingredients on it. I'm considering using spinosad. Those are way earlier in flower and that shit WORKS. WATERED TODAY;BIG MK ULTRA 1.5, THREE IN THE BACK ROW, CHEMDOG AND TENTH PLANET ALL GOT 1 GALLON. THE TWO TENS SPLIT A GALLON. I THEN FED EVERYTHING WITH A QUART OF FOOD. I'll keep an eye out on the dosage and see what the can handle. I left out plant doctor as I'm dealing with thrips. Took a leaf that looked like sep off the pink kush in the 50 with half used soil. I didn't have much time to look around but I will when I get back and I'll put some vids/pics up. The plants that I treated with citric acid looked no worse for the wear and actually BETTER than they hadcthe day before. The other 10th planet and the Pink kusg in the ten are the worst. If I can't beat it I may junk them. I'm planning on treatingvtge plants I didn't yesterday tonight. I may use a different treatment I'm not sure. EDIT: Went back over and took a few pics and a video. I defoliated a SHIT TON of leaves. I can just tell the ones that the thrips have been sucking and laying eggs. It's windy as hell. Plants are going crazy. I'm wondering if the wind will hurt the thrips. Maybe I should've just stood with the wind at my back and throw a buNch of D.E. in the air and have it coat the plants. I'm scared of using d.e. because it absorbs so much water. It's like 80%! The year I had fusarium I put a bunch of d.e. on the soil and it retained water like a mofo. The plants I treated showed no I'll effects. I'm th8nkobg I'm going to remove patient zero and isolate it. And I'm considering using spinosad on the pink kush. What would you do? If you had to use something in the middle of flower or loss your crop which would you choose? I'll probably just use citric acid or the rubbing alcohol. I don't know. I'll keep it updated. UPDATE: WENT OVER AROUND FIVE AND DEFOLIATED. I CHECKED THE PLANTS I TREATED AND THE ONE IN THE TEN HAD A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOKED LIKE SEP. ITS EXTREMELY WINDY SO I DECIDED AGAINST SPRAYING TONIGHT. I LOOKED ONLINE FOR PREDATORS BUT IT APPEARS TO BE TO LATE OR EXPENSIVE. I MAY LOOK FOR AN OVERNIGHT SHIPMEBT OF LOST COAST PLANT THERAPY OR SOMETHING BUT WILL THAT WORK SUBSTANTIALLY BETTER THAN A DIY VERSION? ILL EITHER ORDER SOMETHING TONIGHT OR PICK UP THE LAST FEW INGREDIENTS I NEED TOMORROW. LOOKING THROUGH THE GARDEN THOUGH EVERYTHING LOOKS GREAT! I WISH THE TRICOMES WOULD DEVELOP A LITTLE FASTER ON THE EARLY SPECIAL KUSH BUT IT IS WHAT IT IS. THESE GIRLS HAVE BEEN THROUGH HELL AND BACK ARE REAL TROOPERS. 8/25 I thought about putting the late flowering special kush in the barn because it looks cloudy and we are supposed to get rain. I chose to wait until I got back but it started raining already. It's not raining right now but it will probably start again. I'm just worried because I haven't staked the branches. It's a strong plant though. I'll check on her when I get back. I'm looking for some Castille soap this morning and the rest of the things to make a diy lost coast plant therapy. The plants look good though and the flowers are really stacking up. I don't see that silvery shit so it doesn't look like it's spreading real fast. The pink kush is in early flower and I'm considering spinosad for them. They have a long ways to go. I'm not sure. I may just use the diy spray. I'm not sure.

(Aug22nd added video for plant #1 and photos with and without blackout to show some other stuff and size a bit) Aug 21st, Sunsets are both moving great. Need photos of plant #1 but #2 is closer to finishing then the first. Chunky buds on the shorter one hope the first fills out as well. Smells amazing, really sweet so far , candy like almost a "pez" of sort kinda candy I'm getting. But will update alil more once I get the other plant pics up. Looking great so far !!

I am starting to train my automatics a little bit. The Photos are growing very well and are stretching quite a bit. Every day or two I have to rearrange the LST sticks to spread the canopy even more. Next Week im going on vacation for 2 weeks so im topping one of the automatics as it will be going in to flower soon anyways. This is an experiment on whether I can delay flower by doing that or if it just stuns its growth. One of the clones was also topped but as it hast alternating nodes it doesnt have the same effect as for plants grown by seeds. Still curious whether it has any positive affects on plants growth structure. For the next two weeks I will just let the plants grow and train and defoliate once I am back from vacation.

2025-07-09 Bay Burger doing very well, we are entering week 3 of Flower and you can see how the flowers are developing. Girls look happy and green The outdoor Girl had a hot week, but what to say then, she loved it xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Breeder Information Bay Burger Early Version is Delicious Seeds' new ultra-fast flowering variety. This mostly indica strain boasts a THC percentage exceeding 26%. The Bay Burger results from crossing a mythical plant with the indica Donny Burger (itself a cross of GMO and Han Solo Burger), enhanced with fast-flowering genetics from their bestselling automatic variety, Eleven Roses Auto. Flavor Profile This exotic, USA-made strain offers a complex flavor journey: Initial notes: Pine, Lemon, and Kush Mid-palate: Earthy flavors with forest nuances Finish: Explosive metallic kush flavor - truly a sensory experience Effects The relaxing, indica-typical effects come with an inevitable urge to laugh that lasts over time. Growing Characteristics Classic Afghan-style canopy Moderate vegetative growth with stretching in final vegetation weeks Dense floral clusters covered in abundant resin glands Resin production continues even in recent weeks, covering all leaves Impressive appearance and easy cultivation Low nutrient requirements Resistant to pests and fungi Suitable for inexperienced growers Requires full sunlight for maximum potential Strain Specifications AttributeDetailsGenetics20% Sativa, 80% Indica THC Content26% Flowering Time (Indoor)45 days (Early Version) Harvest Time (Outdoor)Early SeptemberFlavor ProfileKush, Lemon, Pine Yield600+ g/m² Indoor | up to 2,000 g/plant Outdoor Aroma IntensityHighEffectNarcotic/RelaxingSeedsFeminized LineageBay 11 × Donny Burger × Eleven Roses Auto

9' semaine de floraison, officiellement en rinçage depuis le début de semaine. La sénescence à bien commencé, A1 devrait être récolté en 2 fois et je commencerai par elle. La semaine a venir tous va rester telle qu'elle. Par la suite je vais réduire et changer les spectre de mon système. Réglages culture : inchangé autant en lumière que environnementale . Elles sont âgées de 99 jours dont 60 jours de floraison. Merci les Growmies qui me suivent ✌️ , bonnes culture à vous les p'tites ✋️ vertes 🌱🌞🌱

Flipped to flower 05/02/26 💪

She's finishing in stride. The tops are still foxtailing and just keep on growing. There's a beautiful red/purple fade becoming on the leaves. The nugs lower on the canopy are insanely frosty. This is the best smelling Superboof cross I've ever smelled, and I smell atleast 1000+ packs each year. Deep Deep Red Fruit Punch + Black Cherry Fruit Punch+ Beautiful Orange Citrus background from the Superboof + sum earthy hashiness from Pure Michigan. My best plant yet in my opinion and a lot has to do with the banging genetics from Homegrown Genetics. I am absolutely blown away and will be running more! Maybe another week? I'm gonna check trichomes today and see how she looks

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Welcome to GhostGrow Chapter One by PoshGrow! 🌳 Week #12July 12th - July 19th LAST WEEK! ----- July 16th. As I mentioned last week, theres 4 girls left in a tent: Alaskan #1, #2, #3 & #5. Alaskan #1, #3 & #5 will be chopped down at the end of this week. Finally they are ready at flowering week #12!! Alaskan #2 would be shame to cut her and throw it away, so I decided to let her finish with my next grow. I think she will be ready in 3 weeks max, so it wont interupt my next run. Watering: every 2 days. Alaskan #1, #3 & #5. From the middle of the week 11 watering only pH corrected water (6.2 - 6.3 pH) to fully flush them before harvest. Alaskan #2 was flushed for 1 week, no nuts, just 6.2 pH water and started all over again. Fox Farm Trio with BB 15ml, GB 10ml, TB 10ml per gallon ratio. Going to water using Fox Farm official schedule till the last 2 weeks, then going flush like always. Stay tuned for my next grow to find out how her life is going lol 😆 See you guys in a few days with the end of this grow and final harvest update! Peace ✌️ P. S Song in the background Yelawolf - You and Me 👍

Do you care about the flowers blooming.Do you have an intense smell in your nose

LAS PLANTAS YA ESTAN EN SUS ULTIMOS DIAS, YA TIENEN ECHO EL LAVADO DE RAIZES, DURANTE LA SEMANA QUE VIENE SE CORTARAN!! Y FINALIZAMOS AUTOS HASTA PROXIMO AÑO, PRONTO MOSTRARE LAS DE TERRAZA QUE TEGO 2 PLANTAS DE TEMPORADA UN ESQUEJE Y UNA PLANTA

WEEK 5 SETUP - ROOT ZONES Optimizing cannabis performance requires balancing a strict temperature gradient between a cool root zone (68°F–72°F) to maximize dissolved oxygen and active nutrient transport, and a warm canopy (77°F–95°F) to accelerate photosynthetic enzyme activity and electron transport rates. There is a critical anatomical temperature gradient required for optimal cannabis metabolism: The Root Zone (68°F–72°F): Must be kept cool to maximize dissolved oxygen, preventing root rot (Pythium) and ensuring active transport ATP powers root elongation. The Metabolic Sweet Spot (77°F–95°F): The primary Electron Transport Chain (ETC) enzymes and ATP synthase complexes in the foliage require these warmer temperatures to maximize molecular collisions, accelerating respiration and carbon fixation. The Destruction Threshold (104°F): Enzymes and lipid membranes denature, causing structural metabolic collapse. Active transpiration constantly pulls dissolved O2 down through the top of the substrate like a piston. At night, the top-down pump completely stops. When transpiration shuts down after dark, the root zone can quickly become stagnant and oxygen-depleted because the mechanical "pump" is off, while the roots still need to breathe. Having a hole in the middle of the 100 gallon, in which all the air intake in an indoor grow tent comes up through the middle of the pot rather than open side panels, and having tent exhaust connected to RH allows cellular respiration to enact the exhaust, which creates a negative pressure differential that will act as a pump at night similar to daytime, but with a different mechanism. By routing the intake exclusively through a central hole and linking the exhaust to a Relative Humidity (RH) controller, effectively replacing the daytime transpiration-driven pull with a nighttime vapor-driven physical pull. Because the side intake vents are sealed, the tent is forced to draw its replacement air directly up through the center of your massive pot. This actively pulls stagnant, CO2-heavy air out of the root zone and replaces it with fresh, oxygenated room air. UVC 264nm duct sealed with HEPA filters to prevent contamination of pathogens. Constant airflow of 0.2m/s underside of the elevated pot to prevent potential runoff stagnation. Polystyrene insulation to prevent core desiccation, HVAC climate-matched intake, inline UVC/HEPA filtration, and constant underside air velocity are successfully engineered around every major failure point. Because cellular respiration spikes RH in waves, ensure your exhaust controller has a tight deadband (e.g., +/- 2-4% RH). This prevents the fan from "hunting" (short-cycling on and off too rapidly), which would cause erratic pressure shifts in the root zone. Using large-sized Hydroton (expanded clay) pebbles to fill a 12-to-14-inch diameter middle cavity in the pot solves the air channeling problem entirely. By replacing a dense substrate core with a highly porous, structural aggregate, it creates a dedicated internal air plenum. This ensures that the negative pressure differential acts uniformly across the entire vertical column of the root zone. Often referred to as a sub-surface aeration plenum or negative-pressure root system. By using negative pressure to pull or push conditioned air through a Hydroton (expanded clay pebble) plenum, this setup optimizes the root zone microclimate while preventing the typical gas stratification found in traditional containers. The 12-to-14-inch Hydroton layer acts as a high-porosity distribution vault. Because Hydroton has massive interstitial spacing, air can move through it with minimal resistance before diffusing into the denser substrate above. Instead of air channeling up a single path, the system forces the conditioned air to spread outward and upward evenly across the entire radius of the root mass. Roots actively consume Oxygen and respire Carbon Dioxide (CO₂). In standard pots, heavy CO₂ and excess Nitrogen can settle at the bottom, creating an anaerobic "dead zone." This negative pressure actively pulls those heavy gases out, replacing them with oxygen-rich, HVAC-conditioned air. Roots that penetrate the polystyrene/mesh barrier into the Hydroton core will experience incredible growth due to the hyper-oxygenated environment. However, because of the high nighttime airflow, the surfaces of the Hydroton will dry rapidly after irrigation. This will create a localized, self-regulating air-pruning zone, forcing the plant to explode with dense, lateral feeder-root branching just outside the core. Turns one's massive pot into a bi-directional, lung-like matrix. Equipped to destroy all limits set before it with nearly zero points of failure. With these safeguards implemented, the root zone environment achieves an unprecedented level of equilibrium. The plant drives the system. High transpiration creates a powerful top-down pull, dragging oxygenated moisture through the upper profile. The HVAC and HEPA/UVC intake runs passively or under low static pressure to maintain ideal ambient baselines. Transpiration ceases(Photosynthesis), and metabolic cellular respiration triggers a spike in relative humidity. The RH controller instantly fires the exhaust fan. The negative pressure vacuum instantly engages the clean, conditioned cohesive air column. Fresh air sweeps through the sealed duct on the underside of the buffer zone(pot), enters the 12-to-14-inch Hydroton plenum, and diffuses radially outward through the HVAC-controlled substrate. Stagnant CO₂ and nitrogen are actively evacuated. This setup prevents root rot, boosts oxygen levels at the root zone, and accelerates plant growth by ensuring the root system always breathes fresh air. Polystyrene keeps the core from drying out prematurely, the physical barrier keeps the media from migrating into the plenum, and the climate-controlled intake ensures the root zone never drops below its metabolic sweet spot. In standard growing systems, a root zone of this massive scale always runs into a diminishing return curve: the larger the pot, the easier it is to create cold, stagnant, anaerobic dead zones in the deep interior. This design completely smashes that ceiling. By turning the absolute center of the mass into the cleanest, highest-flowing, most oxygen-rich zone in the entire garden, it allows the root system to expand exponentially without ever hitting a wall. One is giving the plant the ultimate foundation to maximize its genetic potential, pushing growth rates, nutrient uptake, and overall vitality to their absolute limits. Also allows intake while catching all CO2 generation in the bottom half of the tent, kicking it up into the canopy every morning, even all around with 360 distribution, zero dead spots. Sub-surface aeration and magneto-electroculture matrix: a highly sophisticated, closed-loop engineering framework that perfectly bridges plant physiology with fluid dynamics and electromagnetic physics. By turning a traditional container into a bi-directional pneumatic lung, the design successfully bypasses the biological stagnation limits of massive root zones while leveraging micro-Lorentz forces to enhance nutrient mobility. Integrating a massive copper rod with an iron core (an electromagnet core) directly down the central axis of the Hydroton plenum—and driving a magnetoelectric field at the base using a neodymium magnet—shifts setup from a basic galvanic circuit to a specialized magneto-electroculture matrix. Running the earth battery's DC current through a highly conductive copper casing insulated around a ferromagnetic iron core transforms the central air column into an inductive broadcast tower for the rhizosphere. Just big enough to fill the massive root zones but not enough to leave the 4x4 tent. The physics and structural safety of this addition alter the system's dynamics in a couple of ways. Copper is an excellent electrical conductor but is non-magnetic. By wrapping the high-permeability iron core inside that copper column, you focus and amplify any magnetic flux lines generated by the circulating micro-currents. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ 38 mm OD x 19 mm ID x 6 mm N52. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ ⚠️Keep it well away from pacemakers, credit cards, mechanical watches, and sensitive magnetic sensors.⚠️ There is a permanent neodymium magnet at the base of this core, inducing an electrical current; this creates a localized electromagnetic actuator. Because it sits at the bottom of the plenum (where HEPA/UVC filtered intake air enters), the air moving up the column passes through a dense, structured magnetic gradient. As HVAC-conditioned water droplets and dissolved nutrient ions flow outward from the Hydroton plenum into the biochar, they cut perpendicularly through this magnetic field. This exerts a micro-Lorentz force on the free ions, altering their kinetic trajectories and potentially boosting ion mobility through the substrate's high-impedance boundaries. The central rod is sealed in a non-conductive jacket below the soil to allow the magnetic field to pass through while physically isolating the raw metal from moisture. Iron cores radically increase magnetic field strength, but they also introduce electrical resistance. If the current from the earth battery hits a bottleneck in the central rod, that energy transforms into heat. Given the root zone has a strict oxygen threshold above 75°F, use a digital multimeter to verify the central rod is not acting as a heating element. Copper is highly toxic to plant roots in elevated atomic concentrations. Because the central plenum experiences a massive, nightly rush of high-humidity air driven by the pneumatic exhaust lung, an unsealed copper rod will oxidize rapidly. This creates copper carbonate or copper sulfate runoff that will toxicify the hydroton pruning zone. Luckily, we don't top water in that zone. Roots exhibit magnetotropism (growth responses to magnetic alignment). A constant, hyper-intense magnetic field can distort root elongation or cause root tips to prematurely deviate from their lateral path toward the biochar. Ensure input voltage stays strictly in the micro-current range to keep the magnetic flux lines subtle and non-disruptive. The permanent magnetic field has a profound, measurable effect on the surrounding rhizosphere. Placed right in the middle of the massive 100-gallon pot, the 38 mm neodymium magnet acts as a powerful bio-magnetic anchor. Because the magnet is completely sealed and safe from corrosion, its magnetic lines of force will constantly radiate into the soil matrix. In plant biology and soil science, this triggers several notable physical and biological shifts. Water molecules are diamagnetic (weakly repelled by magnetic fields). When water moves through the soil near the magnet—whether from watering or root suction—the strong permanent magnetic field temporarily loosens the hydrogen bonds between water clusters. It breaks larger water groupings into smaller, highly uniform clusters. This "magnetized water" moves through soil capillaries more fluidly, lowering surface tension and allowing the roots and surrounding microbes to absorb moisture and dissolved ions much more efficiently. The field stimulates soil enzymes like phosphatase, which unlocks bound phosphorus in the soil and turns it into a bioavailable form for the plant. Many beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR), including nitrogen-fixing strains, are magnetically sensitive and show increased activity and modular clustering under a magnetic field. The field strengthens the communication networks among soil microbes, which actively boosts the plant's natural tolerance to environmental stressors like salt or drought. Roots exhibit a subtle trait known as magnetotropism. Plant cells use internal electrical gradients to guide growth and transport nutrients. The permanent magnetic field alters the transport kinetics across cell membranes, influencing auxin (growth hormone) distribution. As roots grow into the middle zone of the 100-gallon pot, they will likely develop denser branch networks and thicker root hairs to maximize surface area contact. Magnetic field strength drops off drastically with distance. A 38 mm neodymium magnet exerts a massive effect on the soil within a 10–20 cm (4–8 inch) radius around it. In the 100-gallon pot, it will not drastically affect the outer edges of the soil, making it a perfectly sized "core zone". The roots must grow relatively close to the center to interact with the high-flux zone of the field. Once they do, 432. Explosion. Those faint, clean yellow tips with zero browning, crispiness, or structural curling are not a sign of disease; they are a system-level operational signal from a plant running at maximum physical capacity. The system uses a 1.34 kPa leaf VPD, an N52 bio-magnetic anchor, and an active earth battery; the plant's water and mineral translocation is running at an incredibly high velocity. When a cannabis plant experiences zero osmotic shock but displays clean yellow margins at the extreme tips, it points to Early Photo-Regulatory Nudging (Incipient NPQ)At 84°F and 60% RH, stomata are completely open. If the light matrix is pushing a high PPFD, the chloroplasts at the very tips of the leaves—which receive the most uniform light and highest wind velocity—are operating at 100% saturation. The faint yellowing means the plant has initiated Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ) at its furthest boundary. It is temporarily slowing down chlorophyll production right at the tip to dissipate excess photon energy as heat, protecting the rest of the leaf blade from building up harmful Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). By incorporating marine crustacean biomass (shrimp and crab chitin) into the substrate catalyzed by the N52 magnetic anchor and an earth battery, this engineers a highly advanced biochemical trigger. In standard agriculture, elicitors are used topically to simulate pest pressure. In this system, chitin functions as a continuous, molecular sub-surface signal. When this organic polymer interacts with the super-fluid, magnetized water, it unlocks a powerful bio-energetic loop that forces the plant to maximize terpene synthesis without experiencing actual tissue damage. Raw chitin is a dense, insoluble polymer made of long chains of N-acetylglucosamine. In a typical organic soil, breaking down this structure takes months. However, this root zone features active soil electrolysis and magnetically restructured water. Water molecules passing through the 10–20 cm high-flux N52 magnetic gradient undergo diamagnetic restructuring. Their hydrogen bonds loosen, lowering surface tension and turning the moisture into a superfluid. This highly fluid water penetrates the crystalline structure of the crustacean biomass much faster than standard irrigation water. The earth battery's direct-current micro-voltage alters localized redox states, increasing the metabolic speed of beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR). These microbes rapidly produce chitinase enzymes, cleaving the dense chitin chains into low-molecular-weight, highly bioavailable chito-oligosaccharides. Relevance will become clear in later weeks.

Day 106 12/25/2021 being of a new week and this will be more than likely the last week this lady gets any nutrients thinking Wednesday. After that will start flush with collected rain water. After checking trichomes they were about 85% cloudy about 10% clear and 5% amber which is right where she should be since the end is coming fast. Day 110 12/29/2021- Started flush today and will continue to just feed rain water until next Wednesday. Will cut her down next Friday 01/07/2022.

This was the girls last week! I decided to call them finished on day 63 the tricomes are almost all cloudy, with a small amount of amber. I’ve learned that they continue to degrade as you dry and cure your flower, so I’m trying something new for me, and pull them a little earlier than I usually would. In addition, after watching a podcast (Dude Grows Show) if you don’t know, check it out… I decided to run the lights for 18 hours instead of 12/12 for the last 5 days before harvest. The idea behind this, is to stress the plant enough to increase its natural sunblock/protections, which would be terpenes and tricomes just before you harvest, while also possibly quickening the finishing time for your plant. The group was discussing the benefits of this (listed above) while some already had implemented these practices when finishing plants. The recommended time to run extra light time would be around the last 5-9 days of the plant, without having any nanners or weirdness happening with your plants. Anyways, they finished amazing, sticky, stinky and heavy ❤️ the Terps are crazy on these strains….Harvest details to come. Thanks for stopping by 💚🇨🇦👊