The living soil I’m using is a bit strong, so I made a cup size hole and filled with just soil and worm castings to plant the seed

Vanilla Latte is very special strain for me: I've never grown the plant like this: thank you Humboldt Seed Company for such a good job

I increased feed to 1 gal when watering. I water 2 liters let her absorb that and 30 minutes or so later i give her anothet 2 liters. The small amount of run off is absorbed by the following morning. Historically my plants have drank 2 liters and yielded 57 smokaeble grams. They say the amount of consumption is an indication of estimate yield. If my hypotheses holds true, Apollo should yield about 113 grams (4oz), twice what I've accomplished in the previous grows. Fingers crossed. Fragrance in the tent is Sweet citrus diesel smell. Gently pushing the stems down and out, my hands, arms, and fingers are sticky. RQS says harvest at 70-75 days from seed. I think within 2 weeks for harvest. Based on 9/14 pop soil, my calendar indicates it's gonna be around the 20th. So before Thanksgiving.

Week 10 buds keep growing but the girls got some kind of deficiency… it started at the top of the plant … I’m almost done with the blue dream hopefully this don’t mess her up in her last week or weeks.. other than that she’s a big girl !!! The purple dream seems to be doing fine hopefully she don’t end up dying on me before harvest …

She had some samll defolation done and one more will be done this week. She should start getting tall next week.

After 2 weeks with a temperature of 14°, i maneged to bring that up to 22 degrees, now the plant is growing fast and healty

July 5: Sunday Punch EV is getting nice and big. She’s starting to preflower but i’ll do one more week of veg before force flowering starting next Saturday. These EVs might not need to be forced but the buds are better when formed under stronger summer sun. Great plant. July 8: added Power Bloom and barley in a 1:1 mix as a top dressing. July 10: still growing fast and definitely starting to flower.

Everything is going good again this week, girls are starting to pack on the buds now for sure. Screen is not the evenness canopy, but it will do. 1 plant does seem to not be doing the same as the others, bud wise, though, but she got stressed a bit when I broke a large branch early into flower while training it under my screen maybe. I also noticed my light was not quite coming all the way over on that side of the tent far enough so I fixed that and we will see how she does. Buds are only half The size maybe of what are on the other 3 plant blanches. I also did a water change out end of last week and kept the nutrients on the lighter side still. I usually go opposite and push them with the nutrients, but this time we are dialing it back just a tad to see the results. So far so good anyway. Lol Cheers💨

I was still dealing with lockout problems until the end of this week. I flushed everything with pH'ed water and after that, gave her 3L of 1ml/L nutrient solution to compensate the loss. We went from 5.9 to 6.3 soil pH and as you can see in the pictures, it stabilized. I am now very cautious of when and how I water and feed. I built some legs from ABS tubing for the elevated tray that helps when I want to empty the saucer. The light is at 70cm, 80% power for 650PPFD. I might invest in a CO2 reader to know if I could give her more. I have to adjust the power and distance of the light to get the adequate room temperature. I'm aiming for the highest difference between day and night. 2 more weeks of veg and depending on the size, I'll decide to switch or not.

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 49 days in and everything is going much better , she's bounced back pretty good👍 👌 👉 Shes getting frosty now , and i hope she fills out 👌if she does gonna have some buds on a stick 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Starting up week 2. So far so good! Looking like strong and healthy little seedlings ! Gonna start with ancient earth nutrients.. .1 per L very mild. Have a feeling these plants are about to have a growth spurt! Happy growing fam!

Pretty good week overall! Day 80, I am posting a little early to coincide with my expected harvest in 2 weeks, and because today I officially started the flush! At this point I am anticipating the harvest between 5 and 14 days from now, depending on how quickly the buds finish ripening up. I am guessing the taller plant has about 75% red hairs and over 50% cloudy trichomes at this point. The shorter plant is slightly behind with maybe 40% of her hairs being red and maybe a third of the trichomes are cloudy. They have made a lot of progress over the past week, so🤞 they will continue that trend. Did a pretty decent defoliation on the shorter plant, due to some fan leaves that were blocking light from the lower canopy turning yellow. I have decided to try molasses with my flush water, hopefully that will improve my final product. One final note is the smell.... it is considerably stronger this time than either of my first 2 grows. Typically I do not bother with a carbon filter, but the smell was so strong it leaked in from my garage and permeated my entire house! So I added filter (and a very strong candle) and it seems to have helped the problem. Super excited for the harvest, will definitely keep everyone posted!

Mein Erster Grow ist geschafft! hab auch direkt versucht selber Hash zumachen und es war echt Lecker! LemonCherryCookies ist gut aber bei mir sehr viel Blätter.. wenn ich nochmal so eine bekomme dann wird die eingefroren😅 Hash hab ich aus den Verschnitt der 3 Pflanzen gemacht : Verschnitt eingefroren - Verschnitt in 5 Haufen aufgeteilt und in der Box mit 150Mesh gesiebt , Nass kam 4,6g und Trocken 2,1 am ende. Hash war mega! Vielleicht wird im nächsten Run eine Camping Waschmaschine zum Hash machen besorgt, dann spar ich mir das Schütteln 😂💪

Just need to trim her up and get her on the rack, real nice buds dripping with resin thanks kannabia this one was a cracka

The end is very near another day or so thinking Saturday smell is very pungent and colours are truly showing on these ones been giving plain ph,d water for the last week and todays been 8 weeks and 3 days flower time really enjoyed doing these unknown mixes but think I'm going to do some named strains next time will update in the next coming days on chop and wet weight thankyou for viewing and happy growing

Que Pasa familia,Tenemos cambios , 12/12 empieza lo bueno(floración), empieza a oler el cuarto a un aroma especial 😉, os voy a dejar muchos vídeos para que no tengáis ninguna queja. •primer problema y único , es la temperatura. (Max30 min28 con Luz). Llevaba varios días comiéndome la cabeza , de mientras tengo medio abierto las compuertas del indoor. Todo lo demás funciona, se las ve Sanas, veremos las próximas semanas.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

I've bn a bit late with update but all well ,I flushed 2 plants for 1 week and now just 1 lsd left,,,,I managed to get some ATA-XL so hoping for denser buds on the last one I'll give the overall harvest weight at the end,happy growing growers👍👍👍👍👍👍👍