This week I did some topping as well as some Lst. The plant responded well to each training

Über Ostern jetzt hatten wir sooo gutes Wetter... Ich konnte nicht wiederstehen und hab Sie nach draußen gebracht... Sie liebt es. Bis dann growmies 🌱💚💪😎

Hello my beautiful friends 😇 😇 😇 After 3 weeks on grow period flowering stage is here 💪 💪 💪 Day- 22 The girls started to be very bushy, as they start showing first sign of flowering I go into the action and I proceed a small defoliation 🙌 Nothing big just to maintain a healthy growth and airflow 😇 😇 😇 Day- 23 Around two or three days ago I make a new tank of 10l... Nearly entire solution goes 😇 I have got heavy drinkers here 😂 😂 😂 All the best, You Lovely Girls Growers 💪💪💪

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Utopia Haze is a rare heavily sativa dominant hybrid (90% sativa/10% indica) strain created through back crossing Brazilian Sativa strains. This tasty little bud took home 1st Place for Best Sativa in the 2008 High Times’ Cannabis Cup and for good reason – with its potent 18-22% average THC level and long lasting cerebral effects, Utopia Haze is one powerhouse smoke. The Utopia Haze high comes on soon after you finish your first toke, hitting you with a strong cerebral lift that infuses you with a sense of hazy relaxation. Type: Feminised/Photoperiod Cultivation: Indoor/Outdoor Flowering Time (days): 70-75 Indoor Yield (g): Up to 650 Feminised Outdoor Harvest Month: October Feminised Outdoor Harvest Month Week: 3rd-4th week Aroma: Citrus, Woody, Pungent, Mint Effect: Cerebral Lift, Hazy Relaxation, Sleepy Welcome Everyone to the Final Entry of my Utopia Haze Grow ! There is so much to discuss ! I have been extremely busy as of late trying to get this Harvest together, but i am happy to have it here for you now ! I Seriously under estimated the amount of time, help from others, and my own necessary skills to pull this off.. and i still kind of screwed it up lol ! But its worth noting i have never actually done this before and trying to document it during....was extremely hard. It is next to impossible to work an iPhone with rubber gloves on ! First I want to discuss everything step by step so before you jump straight into the comments on how the end product is so small in "quantity" Rest assured i am happy with its"quality"...and thats all that matters to me because Life is a journey not a destination! and i have learned so much from this grow that I couldn't be any happy even if i messed some things up :) But at the very least I hope you read through this entry in its entirety with an open mind and focus more on the process, rather than just the outcome! I ran out of Ice & i was only able to wash three times..(normally I've heard you should go sometimes 5-6 washes) Preparation is Key & things will be much better next round :) Photos 1-22 These are pretty self explanatory but for those of you just tuning in now.. this is what happens to a very happy plant when you don't have the necessary tools to monitor key components of growing cannabis.. Ph, as well as EC levels play a very key role in the outcome of your grow lol that being said I was just able to save this plant by purchasing both tools but that doesn't mean the plant didn't suffer because of the prior events.. This was a Huge reason behind me choosing to turn this harvest into what i would consider "Solventless Hash Rosin" from "Ice water extracted Bubble hash". Pictures 23 The idea here is the process of using "fresh Frozen Cannabis" this has been discussed many a time online on such sites as instagram and here on grow diaries as well.. I personally have Never tried the process so i decided to try it out and make a judgement for myself.. Video 24 The Cannabis has now been in the freezer for 72 hours making it very well frozen.. as you can tell i struggled getting it all into the 25u Screen Wash Bag. One thing of note i would do differently is i will de-stem my next batch as i also believe this played a part in the amount of plant matter that escaped through the sieves. Photo/Video's 25-28 The idea here is "ice water Seiving" & especially with the bags that I am using here that are only have screen material on the bottom portion of the bag it is very important to have spaces in-between the screens to allow the water to pass directly through the screens into the bottom bucket with the least amount of resistance.. because the hash is so extremely temperature dependant if it gets warm on the side of the bag.. it will stick there and not make it to the bottom to become use able product.. 29 You do not need to use as much Ice as i used here lol... the idea is to keep everything very cold..i certainly achieved that but at the sacrifice of using so much that i ended up grinding product and producing "contaminants" but in the end they are just plant matter that i would be smoking when i rolled up my joint either way so.. I'm not super disappointed.. But it should be noted that what you want to achieve here is a Layering effect where you have the wash bag between two small layers of ice while the "water current" washes the Trichomes away allowing them to be separated by the screens setup below :) Before Starting the machine you should allow some time (i.e.;10-12minutes pre soak to allow the product to become saturated) before the first cycle. By video 32 I have just ran out of ice lol.. Video 33-34 Here I have a tip for you.. to separate the screens that you sieve through.. cut 5 gallon buckets to stretch them across nice and tight.. it'll make scooping your Bubble that much easier ! i learned this from the many "Frenchy" videos I have watched :) Picture 35 Here in lays the problem for most people.. drying your hash without loosing vast amounts of "Terpenes" whilst also stay ever vigilant against mold ! Thanks to all those videos I've watched on youtube.. id like to think this was one of my most successful parts of this process.. Things to Note; Terpenes start to seriously evaporate at temperatures 68F or 20C you need to stay as cold as possible whilst bringing the Relative Humidity in the space down into the 40-30% to stay away from that nasty mold ! I used my cold storage room in the basement.. with a dehumidifier running to keep the space at 45% RH & staying at a constant 15c. All while spreading the hash as thin as possible across parchment paper, on top of the white screens with a fan moving air across both sides of the paper. Pictures 36-38 These are some macros i took in the middle of my drying session I fell in love with the colour. Yes i know the black spots are plant material but they will get caught when i bag the hash & squish the oil out. Thing to Note; at this stage it is important to ensure you 'micro plane" the hash down as fine as you can whilst staying weary of the temperature... any "chunks" will hold pockets of moisture.. that lead to potential problems..ie; mold ... Picture/Video 39-41 Successfully planed bubble hash ready to be bagged and Squished ! Picture 42 Ive decided to follow Pedro.. from Pedros Grow Room and double bag to be on the safe side so i don't have any blow outs. So thats One 25u bag inside one 160u bag ! :) Pictures 43 This is almost 3 grams of the bubble hash from above, already melting in the bag.. this is where i ran into trouble again lol things started getting to warm in the house and i was only able to get one of the three squish's i did on video :( things started getting sticky. Picture 44 This is basically just a photo of the equipment I'm using; 3x5 LowTemp Cage in the frame I built myself, with a 20Ton bottle jack. Something to note here is this is an older Lowtemp model with only a single heating zone which is which i have it closed here heating Both sides of the press :) As well as the importance of having adequate pressure on your plates.. my rig is very overkill for the size of hash bags..lol Video 45 Here is the lovely press video.. its didn't quite work the way i wanted either lol my directional folding wasn't quite tight enough for a big "drip" :) &the Press was set to 65°c Photo's 46-50 are pretty self explanatory :) I had a blow out.. but still managed to pull an 80% return from the hash once squished...& yes it tasted amazing :) Was it worth it in the end... that could be debated.. for some..i understand..its not your thing, but for those of us that are interested in making our own concentrates.. free from Solvents... I wouldn't make it any other way :) If even ONE of you reading this diary finds it helpful to reference for ANYTHING.....even if its "what not to do" ill consider it a success ! Thanks again for tagging along on this garden adventure.. its been one heck of a journey ! Much Love from B.C. Canada, Until Next time, Cariboo

2 1/2 litres of feed per plant every 48 hours Avge temp 80F avge Humidity 44% removed 600w LED left just the 900w too much light with both. The plants with both lights on went into overdrive, uptaking more water and expelling less, causing a big drop in humidity 35 and less, removing 600w light humidity went back to mid 40's. Useful to know if you have high humidity extra light can help reduce it, or so i'm thinking. Did some more light cropping.

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We are at 27 days of flowering now and they are starting to change colors now. The gorilla is really turning yellow. I could of gave her a bit of nitrogen but this is just a practice run with my custom bred seeds so I'm letting it go. Alot of frost showing now. They are loving the new fc4800 and 8x8 Grow Tent for sure🤘 another couple weeks and I should know more about the smell of them. Right now they smell more like the nuken but they are slowly changing to have their own unique smell. None of them smell like what the parents did. Except at the beginning of getting frosty they all kinda smelt like nuken. Like marshmallows. The monkey dough nuken smells like fruit loops and the gorilla smells like skittles. More than the original skittles does👍 WWW.MARS-HYDRO.COM PROMO CODE: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny Shout out and thanks to: https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ #greenbuzzliquids @GreenBuzzLiquids Hers more information on the mars hydro products: GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍 WWW.mars-hydro.com PROMO CODE:rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ #greenbuzzliquids @GreenBuzzLiquids Please check out my YouTube👍 Like and subscribe right Now!!! LoL

Todo bien ,se la eliminaron algunas hojas progresivamente

01-12-2020 ,19:30 kor el szórtam a magokat 06-12-2020 Elültettem a palántákat,,az Afgan kush még nincs kint 08-12-2020 Afgan kush előbújt, növekszik

Topped and transplanted into larger pots and removed a couple of large fan leafs to allow light to reach lower arms, I also chopped the lowest branches and have kept as clones for another setup.

The Royal Haze is still producing new flowers, The Banana Punch looking close to harvest. GSC still not flowering

6/10/25 starting week 2 of flowering and this plant is stacking hard already and praying very beautifully. i have high hopes for these genetics. hoping i dont regret not taking clones of this.

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered only roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 77°F to 95°F, depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 104°F, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently.

Empieza la 4a semana de crecimiento, parece que todo va bien. Los riegos seguiran siendo uno con nutrientes y el siguiente sera los restos del primero rebajados con agua , ya que preparo 8 l y no los gastan. Dia 25 crecimiento 400ml x planta Dia 26 crecimiento pulverizo con barrier y green explosion de top crop. Dia 27 crecimiento 400ml x planta Dia 29 crecimiento 400ml x planta

Hola gente!! Vaya semanita por favor... Unos calores de no creer con 37 Cº, humedad relativa extrema de hasta el 83% y poco viento... Ella está interesada en recibir un poco más de agua, pero no le daremos más de lo que necesita... No quiero arruinar los nutrientes y la vida de su sustrato así que la riego lentamente con sistema de goteo. El fermento de guano de murciélago, palomas, conejo y cabra ya está listo. Tiene un agradable compuesto de melazas, microorganismos de Top Crop, Agrobacterias y almidones además de una buena dosis de humus de lombriz... Huele muy peculiar, ni feo ni agradable, como a levaduras... Lo comenzamos a agregar en dosis de 1 litro a 25 litros de agua pura de lluvia para riego por goteo. Esta semana ella recibirá goteo permanente hasta acabar con la solución. Creo que los 25 litros durarán unos 10 días aproximadamente. (Podría variar según la necesidad del sustrato) Estamos preparando además un top dress de composta, humus y trichoderma para cuando comience la temporada de floración ya que es a mi parecer la forma más eficiente de prevención contra hongos no deseados 🤞 Aplicaciones foliares permanentes cada 3 días intercalando una vez delta 9 y otra vez jabón potásico, aceite de neem y cola de caballo para mantener plagas a raya y también dar ese impulso al inicio de la floración que al parecer está funcionando más que bien. Luego de todo esto, ella hoy toma un descanso previo al riego intenso que se viene. Quiero dar mucho más con este cultivo y desearles a todos un gran camino de aprendizaje y agradecimiento 🙏🌿🌞🏄‍♂️ IRIE!

Unfortunately, I've let the Chaos Cake become too dry due to the fungus gnats, I had watered it too much, and afterwards, I just got a huge increase in the amount of fungus gnats. So, I thought it was best to let it dry out for a while. I think, however, I might have left it a little bit too long because it was incredibly dry. So when I watered it, it actually made the plant fall over. So I've had to prop it up with some metal garden pegs. Hopefully, she'll rectify herself if I make sure that the medium is properly. Watered. Other than that, the plant is doing well. Hopefully, she'll start becoming a little bit more sturdy next week! 😅 I have added an additional 100Watt UVA/UVB lamp, as the uppermost canopy of Acapulco Gold is blocking pretty much everything in the tent. Hopefully, this will aid the shorter plants in surviving until I can harvest it. There will be so much more space and lighting. Can't wait! 😅 Here is what I did this week. 28.9.25: I watered with 1.5L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.2 with; 💜 Sea K .5TSP 💜 Biosys .5TSP PH: 6.2 PPM: 565 The fungus gnats have really increased since I did a watering of the whole tent. I have some more sticky traps set out, and I will not water for several days. Once it has dried the top soil, I will add some more Diatomaceous Earth to the top 5cm. Thanks for checking in this week, and see you in the comments 👌💚🙌🧡😁

I love growing with GrowDiaries! It's great to be able too look back at previous grows and compare. Being able to share with the community is a bonus!! This strain was so easy to grow I found her and her brothers picky on ph, but most are. I'm excited to growing again. @honeycombhydrollc @thefreakoff2021