Likes
Comments
Share
@Bobaloo
Follow
Hoping these do well all my seedlings went downhill fast Took 15 clones today at 6:30 am 🕰️ Best Time to Start Your Cloning & Defoliation Ritual 🌄 Ideal Window: Start between 6:30 AM and 10:30 AM ET This time aligns with: • Pisces Moon energy still strong • Cooler temps and higher plant hydration (better clone success) • Rising sun = energetic ascension (matches your “ascending leaf” flow) • Moon still waning = perfect for rooting
Processing
Likes
20
Share
She's looking so beautiful,very nice strain to grow for sure,I'm trying to give her a good shape before flowering starts. I add organic liquids nuts only once a week and looks like she loves it,let's keep up the work!! 💚💛❤️🌱🤩
Likes
14
Share
### Week 12 Update: Introducing Green Sensation 🌿🌟 ### 🌱 Flowering Phase in Full Swing 🌱 Welcome to Week 12! Flowering is progressing beautifully for most plants, and we’re introducing **Green Sensation** into the feeding regimen to enhance bud development. Bubba Kush still needs some extra care, but we’re making important adjustments to help it recover. --- ### 🌿 Current Plant Status 🌿 **Greenhouse Super Lemon Haze 🌞** - **Growth:** The stretch phase is complete, and the canopy is full and thriving. Bud sites are swelling, and the plant is focusing on producing dense flowers. - **Flowering Progress:** Buds are becoming more defined and starting to gain weight. The plant is responding well to the flowering nutrients, and the transition into the final stage of flower production is looking strong. **Humboldt Seed Bubba Kush 🌿** - **Growth:** Bubba Kush continues to show signs of stress. While growth remains sluggish, there are some minor improvements. We’re adjusting the nutrient regimen and focusing on root recovery and nutrient uptake. - **Flowering Progress:** Bud development is still slow. Environmental conditions and feeding schedules will be adjusted to give this plant the best chance at recovery. **Blueberry Muffin 🥞** - **Growth:** Canopy remains strong and lush. The structure is perfect for supporting the upcoming weight of the buds. - **Flowering Progress:** Pistils are turning into well-formed buds. The plant is showing great promise for a strong yield as buds continue to bulk up. --- ### 🌱 Nutrient and Supplement Update 🌱 **Key Changes for Week 12:** - **Super Lemon Haze** and **Blueberry Muffin** will now receive **Green Sensation** to enhance bud formation, density, and terpene production. This will replace **Power Roots** in the regimen, as root health is no longer the focus. - **Bubba Kush** will also receive **Green Sensation**, but we’ll continue to monitor its condition closely. We’ve removed **Power Roots** to simplify the nutrient regimen for this plant. **New Nutrient Regimen:** - **Terra Bloom (PLAGRON):** 2 ml/l to provide essential nutrients for flower development. - **Green Sensation (PLAGRON):** 1 ml/l to boost bud formation, improve flower density, and enhance overall yield. - **Power Buds (PLAGRON):** 0.5 ml/l to stimulate bud growth and increase flower size. - **Orgatrex (Bio Tabs):** 2 ml/l to keep the nutrient profile balanced. --- ### 🌱 Environmental Conditions 🌱 **Temperature & Humidity:** - Temperature remains consistent to support flower production, and humidity has been lowered slightly to prevent mold, especially for Bubba Kush, which is still showing stress signs. **Training & Defoliation:** - Continued LST and selective defoliation are being applied to **Super Lemon Haze** and **Blueberry Muffin** to maximize light penetration. Bubba Kush will only receive gentle treatment until it shows clear signs of recovery. --- ### 🌸 Looking Ahead 🌸 As Week 12 unfolds, the introduction of **Green Sensation** is expected to bring significant improvements in bud formation and density. Bubba Kush still requires careful monitoring, but with these adjustments, we hope to see better results. Next week, we’ll check on the impact of **Green Sensation** and provide updates on the flowering progress. Happy growing! 🌟💚
Likes
7
Share
Esta cosecha fue muy buena con excelentes resultados de flores muy compactas y demasiado resinosas , la genética en sí es muy resinosa con olor muy característico , con sabores terrosos muy marcados .
Likes
8
Share
Photos from Day 1 to day 7 Sprouted 2 days after planted them. More or less I call them "B" and "S" because at some point, I guess in this first week, I may have overwatered a bit, one of them, and I think it made her grow slower during a week or so, before it got up to its growth again. I was only spraying them with water but I was doing it 2-3 times a day and may have done it 4 times once or twice... My first grow, I may have studied many videos and foruns, but somethings are only learnt when tried. And this "try" went juuust a lil sideways. Its ok Lights were at 50% I guess from the moment they felt earth. I found it fascinating how fast they grew in just 12 hours give or take. Check the photos I also used plastic bottles on tip of them in the first 3-5 days. Temperature inside it was from 22-28°C. RH 70-90%.
Likes
2
Share
I've not had to trim any fan leaves they have all died on their own and I have just picked them off with tweezers apologies for the video I don't know what happened but I add smoked a doobie before 😂😵‍💫
Likes
54
Share
@Fatnastyz
Follow
11-29 Bad news, Banana Purple Punch has been let go. 😭 She was very stunted and tiny, so I made the bold decision to call it. Thought about letting her finish, but she was really small. But Strawberry cheesecake is making up for it!. This thing seems super happy atm! She has jumped to around 12 inches. Stretch is officially on! Triple grape is rockin too, few flimsy leafs, bud branches. One of the branches, kinda twisted itself. Imma look into that one. But both rockin and lovin the EM1. More importantly than the rest! I still haven't over watered or fed. 😁💪 Time will tell, but I'm staying the course! Happy Holidays 😁🤘 12-1 2k water, silica 3ml, cal/mag 3ml, drops balance 1ml and some dust of yucca. 6.2 Stripped GC of anything blocking anything else . Couple blocked bud sites too. Wont touch for at least 3 days. Maybe 4, we will say next water? She may be a bit stressed 😂 Im sure the stripping didnt help. 💪🤘 3x- 11.5 inches tall Scc- 12.5 in tall . .
Likes
17
Share
Bewässerung: 500 ml jeden 3 Tag in der Dritten Woche pH-Wert: 5,8 EC-Wert: 0,7 mS/cm Temperatur: 22ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 50% Schädlingsbekämpfung: im Moment haben wir keine Anzeichen das es was zu bekämpfen gibt, sobald die ersten Anzeichen da sind werden wir handeln :) PPFD: 200 µmol/m²/s DLI: 15 mol/m²/Tag Düngemittel: COMPO GROW ORGANIC WACHSTUM DÜNGER, Sie bekommen auch ab jetzt immer etwas CalMag von BioBizz zu Prävention. Ab Tag 18 haben wir angefangen sie mit einem Mineralischen NPK Dünger (NPK 7-3-5) zu Gießen . Besonderheiten: Die Linsen wurden entfernt und wir haben mir dem LST begonnen -Tag 15 Heute haben wir mit dem LST Begonnen und sie hat sich sehr gut vom Toppen erholt. -Tag 16 heute wurde sie Entlaubt. -Tag 17 heute wurde sie Entlaubt damit die Triebe mehr kraft bekommen und schön im Licht stehen. -Tag 18 heute wurden wieder die LST Sticks angepasst damit sie in form bleibt. -Tag 21 heute wurde sie entlaubt und wurde wieder nachunten gebunden, sie wächst wie beim letzten mal extrem gut, das wird sicher wieder ein Monster 💪💪💪
Processing
Likes
43
Share
ladies have started to take off much more this week. I added heavy 16 finish to schedule of nutes. may be adding fire and roots also over next weeks. no huge issues this week, felt pretty dialed in for most part. using grow room glasses ive found i can get decent video of the girls under lights vs having to take them oit find ok lighting and taking a pic. noticed smell coming off the plants this week, its weak right now, but definitely starting to stink! going to top at the 3rd node once they reach 8 inches tall. after day 28, I transferred into 3 gallon fabric pots, which will be their final homes til harvest! (bottom leafs on plant #1 got some spotting, one side was windburn from earlier in grow, the other side I got a few drops of nutrient mixed water on them, and even after wiping away it left spots on leaves, its all good they are going to be removed after topping)
Likes
10
Share
@numb73
Follow
First week of flower !! That’s my first grow and i’m doing a super buget grow in my personal closet. I want to make a good cannabis without spend a lot of money and with discretion cause not too legal here in My country. Plants are growing very health and buds are starting to grow! Grow space: 70x70x160 Wall reflective material: Silver Mylar Soil: biobizz all-mix 50% and 50% cocco coir Airpots:7 L Exhaust Fan with carbon filter 193m/h Intake fan 200mm Air circulation fan Top planet 300w spectrum Led ph pen, ph down and up, biobizz nutes.
Likes
15
Share
@Roope
Follow
Now like 20+ nuts start to grow high and I rudely tilt down and DAMM now looks wery good in my eye, I skip the triton and give pk-boost and let's see what ladys like and feeding is still under 4h at 12h and I may increase feeding time ihand half but still have defolling to do and start keep yey at nuts too close but now look good and I hope it may that way. Reggeaokkey Till next week.
Likes
6
Share
@Ricks
Follow
Week 1 of flower and the stretch has begun, I don't think these girls are going to stretch very much as it a indica leaning strain plus this light is intense even tho it's so high as you can see from the video clip, I'm not doing any leaf striping or any training im just Gona let them do their thing, FAST TURNOVER so far I'm happy
Likes
17
Share
Mar 7 (day 78): Start of week 12. Mar 11 (day 82): Chopped plant.
Likes
12
Share
📋 Die Strawberry Banana von Fastbuds befindet sich in der vierten Vegetationswoche, was insgesamt Woche 5 nach Keimung entspricht. Die Pflanze steht stabil und hat nach dem Training eine gute, gleichmäßige Struktur entwickelt. Das Licht läuft konstant bei 18 Stunden am Tag. 💧 Zusätzlich habe ich 4 ml S&R Organics 5in1 als Sondergabe verabreicht, um das Wurzelwachstum und die Nährstoffaufnahme in dieser Phase etwas zu pushen. 📸 Die aktuelle Aufnahme zeigt eine vitale Pflanze mit gesundem, sattgrünem Blattwerk. Besonders auffällig ist der ausgeprägte LST-Effekt: Durch das Herunterbinden des Haupttriebs haben die unteren Seitentriebe massiv aufgeholt und stehen jetzt sehr gut im Licht. Die Blattstruktur ist kräftig, allerdings zeigen die untersten Blätter leichte Verfärbungen, was in diesem Stadium nach der Umstellung oft vorkommt und nicht weiter beunruhigt. ✂️ Die Pflanze hat die Kurve nach dem Training gut bekommen und zeigt eine schöne Symmetrie. In der nächsten Woche werde ich das Hauptaugenmerk auf die weitere Ausbildung der Seitentriebe legen. Wenn die Entwicklung so weitergeht, dürfte der Stretch bald einsetzen. Ich beobachte die untersten Blätter weiter, sollte das Gelbwerden zunehmen, werde ich entsprechend beim Düngeschema nachjustieren.
Likes
16
Share
Pheno #7 and #4 showed the most desired traits and will be running both indoors iagain the coming weeks under better conditions. I didnt get as much photo's as promised but things have been hectic on all fronts, but I will do better next time ;) Its a pitty we had some issues and not all phenos where in a position to show the true potentail. There for we are running the 5 with re-running outdoors this season. Along with some new beans :D
Likes
26
Share
Monday. Nothing to report. Tuesday. Ripening nicely
Likes
16
Share
Likes
3
Share
@CalGonJim
Follow
1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
Likes
56
Share
@AsNoriu
Follow
Day 71. Huge lack of food, girls are eating themself and size of NL brings me tears, had huge hopes for that plant ..... Bob is way behind, on cola of SBG is 20% amber ... Stupid to grow two plants in one pot ... But ... GSC is becoming little princes! her colours, smell , frost - I love it ! Think it will be very solid and dense buds too ... Few weeks left max, only water till chop Video and few photos were taken before some yellow or dead leaf collection. Happy Growing !!!
Likes
11
Share
Temperatur: 25-28 grad Celsius r.Lf.: 55-60% Sanlight Evo 3-60 80% 70 cm Abstand (ca. 700 - 800 PPFD)