Il Super soil è stato preparato e le mie bambine sono nei loro vasi finali! Non vedo l’ora di vederle crescere sane e forti, faranno 16h di luce e 8h di buio così avranno più oscurità per migliorare la loro resina 😏 Vediamo intanto questa CBD Auto 20:1 di Fast Buds come cresce nel suo nuovo vaso!

Whats up everybody cheers to another week of growth for everyone! This week the ladies buds started showing signs of progress. You can see them produce more and more resin every day thanks to the cold weather its really easy to keep a pretty dry environment. Can’t wait to do my final defo next week! Until then stay green!

As you can see, she is getting thicker as days go by! Looking to harvest her in 2 weeks! Minor light burn on the top cola, but other then that no deficiencies at all.

19 plants down.... all tangerine skunk clones, and 2 others CF3🍊 x SFK and 🍎Apple Sundae🍏 from seed..... 21 and done That was the most I have ever finished in the greenhouse, I over loaded my system.... that is for sure. I battled PM and mites. But I kept them in check. And I WON... winner winner chicken dinner. So I chose chicken enchiladas!!!! I got a couple grams.... and I shut the greenhouse down.... I guess I should do a harvest even though this diary is not complete. I will never give an honest weight 😈... I tell you that now. But I will weigh one plant, for the average. Just for my own knowledge. 🤗 It was a great run 🤩.... every bit of it is 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 😁 I couldn't be happier 😁

Good

I dont now if ... The last 3-4 week of have do a very light feeding ... I see Yellow in top of the plant .... I have wrong so much do ... In bloom fase ... I think the First week of Bloom the root deat for so much H2O2 ...and the root grow again to the top of the plant ... Is not good ... I have use h2o2 for Paint to pytium... Only now at 1 month ti finish plant grow bud

-Fading and turning some nice colours -Still watering daily

Day 65 Update: Watered both plants with almost a gallon until runoff. Plant #2's water was dosed with Terpinator at 25ml/gal. 11 days left of flushing on Plant #1. This will be Plant #2's last nutrient watering, as she will start the flushing process next watering. Also added two yoyo hangers and two stakes to Plant #2 as her branches are getting heavy (not complaining 🤷‍♂️) Day 68 Update: Starting flush on Plant #2 today. Plant #1 has 8 days left of flushing. Watered both plants with almost a gallon of pH balanced water until runoff.

Turned out amazing still hanging for a week. You definetely need a carbon filter for these. No pests or disease, eady to grow . She will eat everything you give her 💪. 2 distinct Phenotypes. All have dense buds dripped in resin. Responds very well to lst and topping once. The only bad thong is there is a phenotype that is very small and not on par as the other two huge difference. Loving it. Learned alot.

Fattening up those buds. All plants grew to a decent size. Only the GSC is a bit of a dwarf, with low height and very tiny baby leaves. Actually it came handy since I've miss calculated the space I needed for the fan, so now it sits just below it.

So I had a little less nutrient last week then i needed. Def a calcium deficiency. I think it's clearing up but this plant has spot all over it. I changed the water, gave it the right amount of nutrients and a little exra hydrated lime for calcium. Hydro is hard. I hoping It's not sick. I hope It doesn't get the other plants sick. Just a few weeks left.

I have had some troubles this week. I have lost quite a few fish (not sure why) I am also showing signs of light burn/nutrient deficiency. I had to put netting around the sides because they grew taller than they should have and started falling over from the weight. The buds are filling out quite well, some of the hairs are starting to turn orange. It wont be long before harvest.

Tag 83: Mondhöchststand, Ende der Erntezeit und Anfang der Aussaatzeit, Blütetag, ideal für die Ernte. Tag 93: Nach der Trocknung sind es 36 Gramm geworden. Jetzt muss es erst mal reifen.

They bounced back great after breaking some necks, I’ll add one more layer of trellis a foot above each of these to seperate new growth but otherwise we just let it ride to harvest from here. Adding mammoth microbes at .6 ml/gal also. For veg just use b1/b2 at 5g/gal same for clones. Start microbes with clones through flower.

what can I say she is growing like a beast now! They plants are loving the weekly foliar sprays. The blood, bone and kelp meal are doing a great job. Will do another magnesium sulphate next week.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

These all so fine this one I would say is but more Indica 2 was a bit more Sativa and 1 was about right down the middle Oh man she beautiful all 3 about same small diffrence but all had good indoor struckture and so far high flavor all remind me of Skunk#1 Easy to trim big dence buds

Added Exhale c02 and top dressed in each pot with 1 tablespoon per gallon of growing medium my pots are 3.6. I added 3 tablespoons. It is my hopes that with adding the slow release dry amendments and once the c02 bag sarts growing my plants will finally grow. They are short but have 4 nodes at day 21. What is an exhale c02 bag? “The ExHale bag is a patented strain of mycelium that produces an abundance of CO2 without fruiting. This means that when our bag is activated, the mycelium grows, eating the substrate it comes with, giving off heaps of CO2 straight into your garden, and it does all this for 6 months - guaranteed!” At day 25 I am not impressed with the size of these girls? Hope they hit a growth spurt soon? Their internodes are stacked very nicely. At day 28 growth is very slow. Practically none existent since my top dressing at day 23. 2 plants have received a very minimal nutrient burn. As I do not have a soil ph tester? I will be watering with a ph of 6.0 rather than 6.5, hopefully that helps. ONWARD!

The girls are looking good, vibrant and healthy. I'm watering every other day now, up from every three days because they're up taking more liquids. Top dressing as I see fit, once every 4 waterings. Water mixture always has SuperThrive, Molasses and Potassium within it though.