Week 1 Day 1 - 8/12/2023 1st Water change Day! Such a special time it is when you remove the little bit of Nutes that you gave them as an appetizer and you give them their first real meal. Added 39 Gallons of Water to my system SILICA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Root Drip = 1mil/Gal = 39mil Cal Mag= .25mil/Gal = 9.75 = 10mil FLoraMicro= 3.0mil/Gal = 114mil FloraGro = 2.0mil/Gal = 78mil FloraBloom = 2.0mil/Gal =78mil ORCA= .5mil/Gal = 19.5 = 20mil Week 1 Day 2 - 8/13/2023 Everything is looking good the roots are making their way to the water and the new grow is looking nice and green. Week 1 Day 3- 8/14/2023 Everything is right on track, they are looking beautiful and in the praying position all leaves happily lifting towards the light. Week 1 Day 4- 8/15/2023 A little worried today her birth Twin the BA I am growing out is looking great and is raised towards the light and this one is just slightly under.. Will keep an eye on Her. Week 1 Day 5- 8/16/2023 Walked in and the humidity was under 60.... ohh noooooo.. So I added 2 humidifiers to the tent and attached them to my InkBird controller which is set to 62. Also looking at the roots and she has some poking out the bottom but just not in the water yet.. Luckily we are set for 14 days before next water change so the system will stay stable and her sister already has roots in the water so she should only be a day or two behind.. we will just keep tracking but she is delayed. Week 1 Day 6- 8/17/2023 Roots in the Water!!! Huston, we have a successful launch. This grow is on! Humidity was a little low this morning so I refilled the humidifiers. Other than that the temp looks great, the PH looks good, the PPM looks good the plant is in the praying position and all damage from the little drowning from over filling the cloning machine seems to have been fixed. Happy Happy. Week 1 Day 7- 8/18/2023 Yay.. week 1 in the books, roots in the water growth has started. Everything for growth and environment is looking good and on track, there are a couple of mutations with this Lady will keep an eye on those leaves. IMO this grow is going A lot during this week 1 then week 1 of the last grow when I had them drowning. Really excited on how this grow is going to come out.

Die Blüten werden von Tag zu Tag größer und verströmen einen sehr intensiven Duft.

Ending 1st week of flowering Mainlining for 1st time 8x Nodes, topped 3x Tied down to create even canopy Flavour & yield is my biggest aim Day 3 - Tie down training and defoliation. Both strong growers.. WC2 is the biggest so far

December 2nd: Week 6 has started, hopefully last week of veg, defoliating, started feeding Sweet Candy, reducing humidity... more to come Tuesday night and it's end of week 6 or day 42, they are doing well, about 16 inches tall and bushy but I feel like another week of veg wouldn't hurt, hoping to get them all around 18 inches tall before I flip Comments and likes appreciated, stay high

She has really shot up in the last week. She has grown a nice even canopy all by herself. I have given her a second and final feed of dry amendments.

it was like harvesting part of one of the plants and the rest will mature for another 2 weeks.

I messed up my weeks. Correct at week 7.

Aptus 1er utilisation de la game, très concentré.

Welcome to my Green House Seed cross Diary. This strain is unreleased to public as of yet. Skipping a few weeks, I was planning to just update. But, I've been hit with hermies on 1/3rd of my plant sadly. I didn't catch a lot of them quick enough and their sacs exploded.. I removed as much growth away from her as I could. Wk 7. Steady growth. Loving her bigger pot. And she started picking up rapid growth. 40-45cm. (No signs of distress or toxs/def). Wk 8.. plant has flipped finally and has came into full on pre flower. She looked fine. I checked her, but clearly not Well enough (No toxs or defs along this week) Wk9. Found a few male pollen sacs and nanners. Isolated as much as I could and put in corner. Was away for a week or so, And came back to fully open pollen sacs, so, all lower part of plant was riddled with sacs. I really didn't want to lose her all. So, I removed the top 1st 2 nodes. And tried documentated as much as I could. All plants looks fine. Have her confined aa much as I can. I stripped everything around the sacs and everything below them is gone now. Seemed to be. Coming into wk 10. Will save that weeks update after I get her through this week. And let's see if she's still standing. Hoping I can save her. Her sister looks fine. But, this plant was so much better. Had lovely big fat colas, or what would have been. I'm gonna do everything I can to try and save as much as possibleGrrrrrrrrr. I cut everything away with a Stanley blade. (Using gloves) and h202 6% 1-5 ratio mix h202/water. And sprayed and wiped it all down. Just need to watch her now.. Thanks to my sponsors, (reps) from marshydro led lights/tents& Green House Seeds. COUPON FOR MARSHYDRO Use code 'ggs', at any official marshydro site for a discount.

Just switched to flowering

Last feed tomorrow, looking like 10 days until harvest. Can't wait to try this plant out it smells like nothing else! Pretty much cruise control right now.

The little one is slowly starting to feel quite comfortable in her new home. Light Power: 60% Day 26 Photoshooting Topping Day 31 Photoshooting

Its end of 7 week of flowering..from now on I wiil give them flawless finish 1 week to flash all nutritons from soil, and few days only water. Buds are amazing.for me Chiquita Banana smell most beutifull but we will see in the smoke report

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

24.11. Tag 92 Blüte 61. Bald ist Kotelett. Die Knospen kommen auf jeden Fall kurz unter die Dusche. Also Resistent ohne ende. Das kann ich mit Gewissheit sagen. Klein, auch wie beschrieben, gut. Geruch ebenfalls. Klebrig, fest. Jetzt hätte ich gerne noch ein cooles Raucherlebnis. Darauf kommt es mir eh am meisten an. Am liebsten ein Geschmackvolles lustiges high. Mal schauen. 25.11. In 8 Tagen bei Tag 70 ist Ernte. Das ist die offizielle max Zeit vom Züchter Zamnesia. Die müssen es am besten wissen. Die Knospen wachsen noch. Keine Frage. Die Blätter sehen mal so richtig beschissen aus(wortwörtlich). Funktionieren aber alle noch. Sind Saftig und so. HEXEN GEBRÄU. Anderes kann ich nicht sagen. Was ich sagen kann, bisher heben sich alle Zamnesia Sorten die ich kenne ab. Mann erkennt eine eigene (Hexer) Handschrift. Das Leben ist bunt, ihr seid mir willkommen ZAMNESIA. 28.11. Airfreyer dried weed. Ihr wisst schon... Eklig, bin aber neugierig. Erster Jack Bong hit. (huarghh) zuviel Chlorophyll. Wirkung dezent.. Zweiter Jack Bong ( da war auch viel Staub drauf zu sehen.) ?? Lecker? Jau Lecker. Apfel. Was? So richtig granini Apfelbonbon. Volles Pfund Erster und heftigster Geschmack, dann diesel (nicht zuviel), mit Zitrone afghan Geschmack, würde ich sagen. Der Apfel blieb noch ca 15 min präsent auf den Geschmacksknospen. Lecker Leute. Das habe ich nicht erwartet. Der Turn: äh ja. Keine Ahnung. Ich war aktiv mit Grinsen. Habe ihn sehr genossen. Airfryed weed war das... Jetzt freue ich mich sehr aufs baldige echte! Verkosten. 29.11. Tag 66 Blüte. Gedanken ans Kotelett kommen. Und nach nem neuem Samen mit 10 Wochen Veggie(min, kaum stretch). Stellt euch bitte mal vor. Ganz viele nach Apfel duftende Knospen, oft getoppt und Riesengroß. Ja, ich träume... 30.11. Kotelett. Es war recht einfach, da das meiste Knospe war. BLÜTE 67. Nächste update für diesen Grow dauert. Erst trocknen, Curen... 30.11. Näh, das riecht nicht wie weed. Eher wie frisch gepflückte Äpfel!...?! Sehr Pflanzlich. In der Nähe eines Apfelbaums ist das Quasi DIE stealth Sorte. Tss. Sachen gibt es. Apfel weed. Unglaublich.

IPM focused!

Shortly after they were switched to flowering (after week 3) the plants continue to stretch and then start to develop their first flowers. Now in week 7 all plants have very nice flower clusters all over the plant and side branches. They have grown to 45 cm (=Shiva Skunk on left side) and 40 cm (Serious Kush on right side of aisle) in height respectively and all plants have a nice dark green color, which shows they are healthy and also that the Advanced Nutrients schedule works like a treat. The Q6W-Gen.2 LED-Lamps are now dimmed to 100% (=three green LEDs on the dimmer) and work on FULL POWER, which ensures full fledged flower production. Both varieties have now started to exude their typical aroma. The Shiva Skunk starts to smell musky and sweet, while the Serious Kush smells 'gassy' and 'fuely' like its OG-Kush heritage. The flower clusters on the Serious Kush appear to grow denser than the clusters on the Shiva Skunk.

Starting week 8 now. Still having a little trouble with the middle plant. She's fading a little each day. Gave some more osmocote and continuing watering once a day. Been using outside air to cool room temp down to keep around 74. Other plants seem to be doing fine. Less than a month to go, so probably just gonna ride it out without making any drastic changes.

Topped her late in the week but mostly hand lst and then after adding the hydroton back to lst with a tie. Had to switch over to Botanicare from the Jacks 321 because I ran out but I may switch back for flower. Last week Veg yay!

Back from vacation Having struggles with space at the top of the box Can't get the lamp higher atm so PPFD is way to high with 1100-1300 at headbuds (23cm lamp to bud) Getting a new exhaust fan in a few days Will install the new fan (PK100-TC) and get the lamp higher with that Means stress for them but I think it's better than having this high PPFD and temperatures late bloom