9 and half foot tall lil yellow low part look like red ants might be eating the bark was 4 or 5 there at the hole on the steam of the plant

Overdid it with no water

11/30: I harvested the first 6 today, flushed 5 more for the second time, and fed everybody else for the last time. I washed all the branches using the 4-step method ascribed by Doc Bud at High Times/420magazine and many other notable cannabis connoisseurs, with slight modifications: 4 x big plastic totes/bins 8 x ounces of 12% hydrogen peroxide (or 32 ounces of 3%) 2 x cups of concentrated lemon juice 2 x cups of baking soda 10 x gallons of water in each bin Unless your tap water stinks, you're safe to use tap water for the procedure, but I used an inline carbon hose filter to fill my buckets. Bin #1 - 10 gallons of water mixed with the hydrogen peroxide Bin #2 - 10 gallons of water mixed with the lemon juice and baking soda Bin #3 - 10 gallons of water as hot tap water Bin #4 - 10 gallons of cold tap water I was mainly concerned about removing as much lint and cat/dog hair as possible, but also rinsing off any residue left from all the various foliar applications of humic/fulvic acid, kelp, axiom, big bloom, and tiger bloom I did. First, I put my leaf blower on low speed and blasted my plants thoroughly, one at a time, replicating 50-60mph winds for about 10 seconds and watched as a whirlwind of debris and hair flew out the back door. Bud-washing: Pluck any necrotic plant material and any old fan leaves off while they're still on the plant. Then, take a handful of branches and submerge them in Bin #1 for about 30 seconds, agitating it, removing from water, submerging again, agitating, etc...then remove it and let it drip out for a few seconds...then repeat the process with Bins #2-4. Let it drip dry overnight with a little bit of airflow, then dry as you normally would...baskets, boxes, etc.. I hadn't watered these plants in a few days, so they were almost in draught, but after doing this procedure, they were fully hydrated(turgid) and seemed to have brighter colors than before. Nice!😍 12/1: The bottom part of the closet seems empty with only 9 plants in there.. 😟 I cut the harvested plants up and put them into drying baskets in the top of my closet with a small oscillating fan on. I've got the temperature fluctuating between 68f and 75f and the RH is staying between 48% and 52%. To do that, I had to take down the small light in the top of the closet to fit the drying baskets up there. So, I moved the 3 shorter plants still up there down to the bottom and put them on top of buckets. Now the bottom of the closet looks full again!😃 I'm anxious to finish up this grow so I can get busy growing the Fastbuds Fast Flowering Photo Testers!!! When I harvest the next 5, I'll flush the remaining plants really well and that will be all the flushing they'll get..I'll let them dry back out for a few days and harvest them. I've got to make some minor improvements to the garden (adding UV, blue and red/far red booster panels and intake fans) That should put me on track to start germinating them by mid-December if all goes well. 12/3: ...early a.m... The harvested plants are already dry!?!?? And have excellent texture??? Wow..bud washing is for real..roughly 48 hours after I hung them to drip dry, and 40 hours after I put them in baskets in 50% RH/70f conditions with moderate airflow...usually takes 4 or 5 days to get a good slow-dry in the same conditions, so I'm convinced that this must be attributed to the bud-washing procedure. I'm sold! Here's the talley so far: plant #1 - 115g (plus 13g larf) - Candy Cane [F2] plant #2 - 108g (plus 18g larf) - Candy Cane [F2] plant #3 - 119g (plus 15g larf) - C4ndycaine [Candy Cane x C4] plant #4 -  92g (plus 6g larf) - Candy Cane [F2] - the smallest plant in the main area plant #5 - 112g (plus 22g larf) - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] plant #6 -  75g (no larf) - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] - grown in upper area under 200w ...afternoon: I flushed 6 of the last 7 plants for the first time today and harvested 4 more of them. I washed them and hung them to dry.....my dripping wet bathing beauties!😍

All seeds in the Dome lets get poppin’

Krallarinaaaaaaa

Another week has passed and this lady seems to have recovered from last week's sudden problems. I just kept feeding with clear water, I suspect low PH and my solution fixed it. I also raised the light a little more, this SP 3000 is a true beast of a light, and especially the Kush in the middle couldn't handle it that well. Thank you @MarsHydroLED I did some final defoliating, only bundled up leaves and leaves covering major bud sites. This Orange Hill Special is something else though, Im happy to grow this, she is pretty and sophisticated in all, almost majestic. The buds are speckled with orange hairs, the shape of each like a round ball of ice cream. She was pretty from seedling on and looking back, I would have loved some offspring of this pheno. She is a thrill and no signs of male parts on this one, although it can happen with this strain. So glad I have some more seeds and cant wait to put a tentful of this. Don't let its low score dissuade you, yes there is a chance she hermies but when she doesn't my my my... Check em out here @DutchPassion_Official She smells of orange and tangerine with a very strong hazy undertone. This combination promises a great smoke and frankly, I cant wait. Thanks for reading up on me and thank you for the comments and likes again! Hug Bud

Day 92 Last day. Ready to harvest. Smells nice, will update after drying.

On this beautiful monday I reveal to you the evolution of these wonderful Black bud 😇. I am waiting with excitement to prepare them for harvest, they are so close. I have tried as much as possible to present to you their details and colors which are as close as possible to the view I have here in front of me. I'll leave you with this update and come back for the serious stuff 🙌✌️👨‍🌾.

Still trucking along. I had my lights turned up a bit high, I've turned them down a few days ago and all the plants seemed to enjoy it.

Lights sponsored by gottagrowsometime, thanks bro 🙏 Into flowering we go, tents full. Starting to water till runoff now

Very good journey to me, she has responded very well to the lst training, providing me beautiful colas, enough for me to have nice clean organic nuggets to smoke. I would definitely would run this Ak420 by seedstockers again, the sweetest phenotype was the number #2 which you can take a look at here in my page!

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

Today They have pop in my new room is completely ready for a New girls season I am going to use a rosin press for a large quantity off all the flowers That we produce And I will be reviewing that brand ones it arrive

This site help keep my growing info. I enjoy viewing and hearing from all the other growers and breeders.

Day 28. First signs of preflower. Day 31. Continuing with general Hydroponics maxigro every other watering.