This plant during her life have passed trough many issues but she overcame them all and she express an incredible vigor. This week I just added some straw on the ground and I have watered with a solution of EM that I made, also a light solution of molassa have been added to the foliage OMG is not even possible to make a diary longer than 30 weeks here lol 555555

9-20 - decided I was gonna pull these before. I went to sleep last night. Glad I looked again. Light green growth due to swollen calyxes. Buds swelled up quite a bit in the last 24 to 48 hours. Inside the calyxes trichomes are clear to cloudy. Fan leaves have a lot of amber. I popped off a nug and cut it and it was still very undeveloped inside. I had a Buddy with a lot more experience tell me that I needed to pull these two weeks ago. Glad I resisted. It was only after the calyxes swelled up that I realize how early it really was. Still very few Amber trichomes. Still drinking water too. gonna keep rolling with it. Definitely starting to fade a bit.

This girl came up. It's been a dry windy week.

Blütewoche 6 Die volle Blüte Noch gibt das Blümchen vollgas und die Blpten schwellen weiter. Da sich aber die Trichome schon milchig färben wird die Düngerdosis bereits reduziert. In ein bis 2 Wochen kann geerntet werden. * Zustand der Pflanze: Gesunde Pflanze mit immer dicker werden Buds, * Wichtige Ereignisse: Reduzierung des Dünger * Düngung & Messwerte: * Gießwasser: pH ca. 6,3. Leitwert 0.8 mS. * Drain: Wir stellen sicher, dass der pH-Wert nicht unter 5,5 und nicht über 6,8 liegt und der Leitwert die +/- 500 S Abweichung einhält. * Anpassungen: Aufgrund des Eigengewichtes der Buds mussten an Tag 88 (Blütetag43) Stützen eingebaut werden.

Good reaction at the nutrients

Week 18 for Gelato 41 by seedstockers She's just becoming a monster... i know i went through a period of barely feeding her... well this week she's been fed 5-7L of water plus heavy heavy sprays every night😂 so a bit of a change up she doesn't seem phased either way. Im a little worried when it comes to flowering because she barely/never gets wind & her branches aren't very strong. Which is one of the reasons I spray them heavy every evening to build some strength. She also needs a nice defoliation again to keep PM away + also need to start thinking about giving her flower dry amendments top feed because i think she's partly going into flower because of the shade.

These ladies have really been through it, they had beed getting fed everyday by my roommate in what I can only assume was an attempt to hill them because my plants looked better than his. I've been trying to baby them and slowly they are bouncing back

june 16. 4th megacrop feed.1 gr/litre. Ph 7.05 june 20. Megacrop feed number 5. 1gr/litre. ph 5.85. Started LST. Check cool timelapse.

Smashing it as per usual, these girls are just the best to work with, even after 15 years no genetic drift, no watering down, just still goes as strong as she did all those years ago! A truly special cut 💪💪

Hi everyone ! 😀 Everything is ok, no disease, no carrency. but 2 ladies don't want to stretch a lot :/ ( the 2 on the corner, bottom left and Top right ) i don't know why. maybe it's the variety. i have 4 Skunk XL and 2 Critical. Maybe these 2 are the critical ( yes i lost them when i plant the seed 😩 ... ) No more pH fluctuation ( i love that ) EC is around 1.9/2.0 and increase to 2.1/2.2 when they drink a lot so i add water with 1.7 ec to decrease it to 1.9/2.0 again I added 30L of water since i changed the water ( 2 tanks * 20L / i change it the 11/05/18 ) so i'm gonna change the whole solution during the week. See you next week !

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Really resistance to anything that is causing her stress and as always really good yields even in worst case scenarios.

Week 11 Colas are growing nicely I have 8 main nodes hoping to get at least 40-45 grams out of each node what you guys think? Using both lights ( 350w total) DWC water system Water temp around 23-24C Humidity still at 40%

Not really happy with this week. I expected a lot more stretch from the plant, but there is sadly almost none. Also not happy how some of the leaves are looking (turned down). I thought that it might be light or water stress but I tried to reduce both factors and it didn't really change anything. Also tried to lower the vpd but also nothing changed. There are a few gnats here and there, but I can't imagine they would have such an impact, so my last theory would be the pH of the water, but I just ordered a pH meter and it will take some time to arrive. I you have any ideas, let me know.

📆 Semana 9 Las plantas avanzan en la fase de maduración avanzada, con los cogollos ya muy desarrollados, compactos y pesados, centrando toda su energía en el endurecimiento y afinado final. Los cálices terminan de hincharse y la resina alcanza niveles muy altos, cubriendo bien todas las flores. Los pistilos aparecen mayoritariamente oxidados, aunque aún se mantienen algunos blancos, indicando que la planta está cerca de su punto óptimo pero todavía en proceso de cierre. Se aprecia un leve foxtailing en algunas puntas, algo sutil propio de esta fase final, sin afectar a la calidad ni a la densidad general. La absorción continúa ralentizándose, mostrando claramente que la planta entra en su última etapa, enfocada en estabilizar su maduración y perfil aromático. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Hier geht es weiter und weiter. 😅 Ende September fertig? Nee, da habe ich wohl was falsch verstanden. Ende Oktober ist da eher wahrscheinlich…

Weeks 15 - It’s Ready - The 1st Gorilla Glue Is Ready To Be Havrest, I Gave It 3 Weeks Of Flushing And The Trichomes Of The Top Heads Are Most Cloudy With A Few Clear And A Little Amber Trichomes And The Bottom Buds Are Mostly Cloudy With A Few Clear And The Sceny Is Still At It’s Peak But You could Tell It Was About To Head Over The Morning And Start To Take A Downright Spiral I Will Be Hanging It To Dry For 7-9 Days At A Temperature Of 70 Degrees and 60% Humidity. The Slower It Dries The Better.