Hello. This is the end of week 5 and the beginning of week 6 of flowering. Showed around my yard a bit. Lots of nectar giving plants and bushes for the humming bird's, butterfly's and bee's. Smells wonderful in here With the LemonPaya and the RainBow Melon in here it smells like tropical skunk. Yum. The plants are growing well and everything seems good. The buds are bulking up and getting sticky. OK. Be Great. Chuck.

The buds did seem a little airy and fluffy after dry trim. Granted they were full of trichomes, although i do wish they were more dense. The plant did spend its last 5 weeks of flower outdoors in the greenhouse so possibly the extreme heat could have been the culprit. She is full of dark ember orange/red hairs and has super bag appeal. The smoke is smooth with a high that just smacks you about half way through the joint. The smoke was smooth and the high was very indica dominant with an initial hour of cerebal pleasure proceeding the later heavy high . Very unique and wonderful smell as she cures. The high is very strong and clear minded. Its good for an evening smoke in my opinion. Can be a heavy high but without the couch lock.

RSV11 grew really well. She has some big musky smelling colas on her. Lots of sagging in the branches from the weight. She has a musky earthy smell. Nice layer of frost as well. I will try to get more information on her by the final weight video. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Terpyz mutant Genetics. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️ Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. Thank you Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Day 64, 22nd of November 2021: Hi there! Here we go..... so basically pistils are appearing stronger this is the 2nd weeks since they started producing pre flowers. The plants getting a bit light might be some air circulation problem? However they look good and of course closer to the end the gettin' older so the leaves also die. Set up and timing is the same since flower season started. ViparSpectra XS2000 is on full power which is 240W so 100% capacity. Ventilation: 12 hours period when the lamp is on it switches 1 hour on and after one hour off mostly to keep the temperature and of course because of fresh air flow. When the lamp is off it switches on in every 2 hours for 15 min at the same time with the extraction fan. The extraction fan is on 12 hours when the lamp is, and then it switches on in every 2 hours for 30 min. That's all a bit more water for them from today also. Humidity quite the same approx 50%, temperature as well approx 26-27 Celsius. Fertilization remains the same since last week, the BioBizz family raised up to be 2ml/L each so it is like 2ml/L of BioGrow, 2ml/L of BioBloom, 2ml/L of TopMax... see the ratio above. The schedule of the fertilization has not changed happnes 2x a week except epsom salt just 1x a week.

It was finally time to harvest her, what good times we had with her. Amazed with how beautiful this plant is, how easy to manage and train and how rewarding Orange Hill Special is. So we said our thanks and goodbye, thanked her for all the joy she gave while growing her. I realize more and more how I love growing them even more than the end-product. It takes my mind of all going on for a while, in my miniature jungle world in the attic. Im sure all of you just sometimes sit there and watch them, in wonder, dreaming away with a good buzz on, watching them wave in the wind of the fans. So with a heavy hart I apologize, play them their last music, sit with them and feel them and smell them, watch the glistening of the cristals. In the end we had 209 gram dried Orange Hill Special, I will know the total of the grow, in a few days, since the final big whopper still has to dry: my XtraKush, be sure to check the harvest of that one *in couple of days) and see a one-dollar seed outperform two 10 dollar seeds. I probably go over 500 grams for the total grow, which would be 1.6 grams per watt. Big success! Consider an SP-3000 for your next light, you won't be disappointed! Check www.mars-hydro.com for the latest discounts! Thank you @MarsHydroLED for letting us try out your light, it made this successful grow possible! Greetings and all the best! Thank you to our friends here, our followers and the whole Growing Diaries community for just being there. Big Hug, Sunshine and BioBuds

I hope everyone is doing well and happy Easter aka Resurrection day... Anyway, this plant, it's starting to catcher groove.But as you can see, she is a triploid i believe based down the three leaves coming out the top.. If anyone has any experience with this and any tips would be much appreciated, i think it's cool, but I don't want it to be a problem that affects my other plants.. I don't think it will be.. But so far so good.. Thank you for stopping by God bless and happy growing 🙏

Ok

Welcome to my Ðivine ØĠ Ķush diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth.🌎 ___________________________ Feeding: Tue 02Jul: 6L water not pH'd Wed 03Jul: 8L nutrients pH'd 6.5 Thu 04Jul: 6L water not pH'd Fri 05Jul: 6L water not pH'd Sat 06Jul: 6L water not pH'd Sun 07Jul: 6L water not pH'd Mon 08Jul: 11L water not pH'd *please note that most water only feedings are 2L at the time throughout the day in bottom saucer* ___________________________ Weather wise nothing to complain about, again some showers overnight nothing to serious, warm nights and days. I've been slapping Japanese Beetles down a bucket with water and dish soap, they have an appetite for my Ðivine Gals i have leaves to spare but enough is enough😤🤨speaking of which i did some minor defoliation on lower part fan leaves and branches that would never reach their full potential. ______________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

The smaller Potter of Gorilla Glue is doing okay. She should start her stretching this week. I think I broke 2 tops when I was applying the cheap clips. It is what it is. This was a extra plant anyway. So I will be curious to how it turns out. It might not slow her down much. She is doing well under the Spider Farmer G3000 light. I will add the weekly video once I get it done soon. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Amsterdam Marijuana Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer G300w: https://amzn.to/3S2zvsd Spider Farmer 10X20 Heat Mat Kit - https://amz.fun/lsa0J Spider Farmer Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/spiderfarmer Spider Farmer Official Site: https://spider-farmer.com Discount code: saveurcash

I always let my soil/coco get almost completely dry so the roots can search for water before I feed. This is day four ,of week two, for flowering!

The plants grow well in the first week I had 100% germination in the seeds, for a first-time sailor I'm happy. I added the humidifier to keep the humidity at 65%. Now in the second week I increased the quantity of fertilizers but always following the supplier's table and the plants seem to be enjoying their food.

finly she shows signs of flowering start so here we count in flowering now cant wait to see how she will do. so far im not convinced by 12/12 no "time" savings at all if there are big enough buds it could be a energy saving option.

Nice growth in only one week. More than doubled, she seems very happy and strong. Good stem that is thickening up so she can hopefully carry more buds :) No problems so far.

Everything's fine 😊

Week 8, nov 3. the middle plant was turning light green in the past couple of weeks so I flushed it with 60 liters of ph 5.9 water to see if it was locking out. Most of the plants have had calmag deficiencies even though I have been adding calmag every watering. perhaps I need some dolomite lime mixed in with the next promix to get a better ph and allow for nutrient uptake better (?)

The Plant didnt grow much in high and is growing just above the Earth. Maybe i sat it to deep, or its the Genetik i dont know lets see where it goes.

Zum Pressen waren beide Strains super. Angenehm zum Rauchen und ertragreich. Terps sind hauptsächlich Citrusnoten.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Week 6 Well, I finally have 8 tops 😎. Now it’s just a matter of keeping her growing strong and training the tops into the right position. After that is accomplished it’s show time. I am going to guess that it will take a 7-10 days for me to get her where I like it at which point I’ll let her get a few nodes taller and then flip. Main-lining takes some extra time but it is worth it imo. Cooler internals are: 6.0 pH 0.4 EC 65 F solution temp. The tent is running 71 F lights on and 68 F lights off. Humidity is 36-38%. Onward!! 😎🍻