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@TST1313
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Viel passiert! habe immer mal Blätter entfernt, immer ein paar,hat Sie gut ausgehalten.jetzt merke ich aber ,das ein Netz besser gewesen wäre,ich habe Angst,das die Äste brechen,die Knospen werden immer größer und schwerer, habe versucht mit Stäben zu stabilisieren, schwierig da zu viele Wurzeln da sind,die dann zerstört werden.Ich muss abwarten und hoffen dass keiner knickt. Blätter ober verbrennen langsam,das liegt am Dünger, ist aber nicht weiter schlimm, lass sie dran bis zu Ende. , Ich dünge 3/4 nach plan. jetzt noch ungefähr 4 Wochen. Nichts mehr wird gemacht,nur noch 3 Wochen gießen und spülen. Jetzt ist Geduld gefragt 🍀🍀🍀 jedesmal wenn ich davor stehe,kann ich's nicht glauben dass es eine einzige Pflanze ist einfach traumhaft schön,und unglaublich gut riechend
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Läuft alles sehr gut. Keine Auffälligkeiten Keine gelben Blätter oder Anzeichen für Nährstoffmangel
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@AustinRon
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TH 1Q2025 - Week 7 - Flower 4 
(ON Haze X Original Haze) X Northern Lights #2 “Todd’s Haze” Objective - 8 Female Plants, Topped ONCE @ Flip, 12” when topped - Modified Sea of Green Seeds Wet: 1139PM, 28.2.2025 Germinated: 2.3.2025 Flip: 21.3.2025 Harvest: 77 Days, DATE: 6.6.2025 _________________________________________ Initiate Auto-Fertigation LightDistance: [ 19.5, in] # We’re in STRETCH, ~1.5”/day! 11” Top Canopy - [ ] TM-7: [ 0.125, g] # Prep - [ ] Fertigation: [12, 12, 6] # [Primer A, Primer B, Silica Skin], Dilute to EC - [ ] Photosynthesis Plus: [ 6, ml] __ Fri Apr 18, 2025 TH 1Q25 29:F:4:1 __ Sat Apr 19, 2025 TH 1Q25 30:F:4:2 2000 Watering w/ PCAL 1660 Fertigation: [ 1, gal] RLA: [ 8.5, 4.2, 3.4] PCAL 1660: [ 2.5, ml] # Micronized Powder __ Sun Apr 20, 2025 TH 1Q25 31:F:4:3 Light Distance[TOP]: [ 11, in] # Still Stretching LightIntensity[TOP]: [ 925, µ], [ 40, mol/day] LightIntensity[Main]: [ 801, µ], [ 34.6, mol/day] We’ll Raise EC by 0.1 mS/cm/day till we’re comfortably ~ 2.4 (IFF They’re happy) … Would like to see overall GREEN both darkening & evening out . . . Defoliation - [x] Remove Fan Leaves below Node 7 # Preparation for Understory Lighting - [x] Remove Branches with TOPS bottom 25% of canopy Auto-Fertigation Today - [x] CLEAN Chiller - [x] Vinegar - [x] H202 - [x] High Throughput (Blast the interior AFTER Vinegar & H202) Initial Reservoir Fill: EC: [ 2.0, mS/cm] - [x] 4 Gallons (Dehu, RO, or Distilled) - [x] Primer A & B: [ 54, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 27, ml] - [x] Photosynthesis Plus: [ 24, ml] While configuring - Ran 2 Gallons of Feed Before UNPLUGGING. ;-} __ Mon Apr 21, 2025 TH 1Q25 32:F:4:4 - [x] Light Distance[TOP]: [ 9, in] # Still Stretching 1.5 - 2”/Day Reservoir Fill: EC: [ 2.1, mS/cm] - [x] 4 Gallons (Dehu, RO, or Distilled) - [x] Primer A & B: [ 54, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 27, ml] - [x] Photosynthesis Plus: [ 24, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 20, ml] We’ll take EC to 2.4 mS/cm (Relatively Heavy) IFF They’re all happy with the ‘upgrade’. ;-} Picked up 8 gallons of Distilled from HEB. Used for to refresh tank after last nights flush. Going for NO MORE than 2 Gal/Day. We’ll feed MORE than necessary to get DOWN TO Optimal delivery. Irrigation Timer is set to Every 3 Hours, 1 min flow, four times a light period. __ Tue Apr 22, 2025 TH 1Q25 33:F:4:5 Observation Vibrant, Uplifted, Rockin’ - 1250 runoff, Grew TWO MORE INCHES, Light Distance 6” 1900: Measure Runoff - Amount: [ 1250 , ml] - EC: [ 2.1, mS/cm] - [x] Harvest Dehu - [x] Refresh Reservoir - 2 Gallons - [x] EC: 2.1 - [x] Primer A & B: [ 27, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 14, ml] - [x] Photosynthesis Plus: [ 12, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 10, ml] __ Wed Apr 23, 2025 TH 1Q25 34:F:4:6  Plants Look GREAT!
Plants stretched 2 - 3” last night. If we don’t stop, we’ll need to supercrop the Exceptions. Cleaned MANIFOLD FILTER - Had GRANULAR feel, on top of a little slime. Will check Thursday. Doubled IRRIGATION TIME from one to two minutes x 5 Irrigations. We had negligible runoff last night. 1900: Measure Runoff - Amount: [ negligible, ml] - EC: [ ? , mS/cm] - [x] Harvest Dehu __ Thu Apr 24, 2025 TH 1Q25 35:F:4:7 - [x] Harvest Dehu - [x] Refresh Reservoir - 2 Gallons - [x] EC: 2.3 - [x] Primer A & B: [ 31, ml] - [x] Silica Skin GEN 3: [ 16, ml] - [x] Photosynthesis Plus: [ 12, ml] - [x] SLF-100: [ 10, ml]
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Grown out this week and got them ready for the early flower growth. Trimmed heavy and wired all branches away from each other. LST in full effect. Hoping it’s not too much trauma for them.. they proved me wrong. Bounced back with vigor and bright excitement! Eager to see these buds start forming 👀
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The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches 50% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.
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Las semillas fueron plantadas correctamente en el sustrato previamente inoculado con tricodermas. Un riego abundante cubre su manto y el humidificador llena el aire creando una niebla atractiva para los brotes que vendrán.
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Pistils are slowly turning brown, trichomes cloudy and buds are ripening. Started flushing the soil this week for the next 7-14 days depending on the progress of the plants.
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@Wenz004
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Next grow week done Nothern light topped...started to grow better after one week of my absence and pure stress for the plant...nutrients data above are only for this plant Northern light untopped which gets only aptus nutrients (data see last week) shows impressive grow...develops monster leaves which is a bit problematic...lower part does not have enough light...however I decided not to influence this plant much...only done some light lst
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@MrJoint
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✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. 🛁 Roots washing start.
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@Mo_Powers
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unfortunately it was a very rainy week. i hope that no bud rot will develop. due to all the water one branch broke under the weight. but i tied her tightly and she is still doing well. she smells incredible and it is getting more and more intense. let's hope for a few weeks of sunshine until harvest and that everything goes well. power buds from plagron is definitely good for her.
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@Esebees
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4 de 4 semillas germinaron empiezan a salir los cotiledones y las primeras hojas
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18 weeks from seed to harvest. Love 34 street seeds, quality genetics for a fair price. These garlic cookies showed no disease or pest issues, no mold or powdery mildew. Easy enough to grow, no surprises, no super stretch in flower, but I would recommend training or SCROG to control them. Pungent Pine is what I am callling this smell, over 800 grams wet weight. They are hanging to dry in my tent as I write this, 60 %RH and about 71 degrees of freedom units! Can’t wait to try it out 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨
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@PapaHarry
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Big nugs I’m excited for end weight, looking at 1.5-2oz update after dry i had 66.5g or just over 2oz!!
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Earlier watering was fed with nutrients, and my temperature is not low so I should go with minimum to medium quotas with more water avoiding burns, without much runoff mixing with soil compounds and mycorrhizae for better performance I know they need a calcium magnesium for better performance the problem is money I will continue with the use of salt Epson the option I have at the moment, direct sulfur in the soil mix has helped me hear a noticeable change. watering ph 6.2 solution temperature 20 ° - 0.50 g of large white microreceptor 2 days earlier sprayed with ppm-free water via leaves - lights off to serve as a cool-down shower is great for stomata . Simple led panel added as main light source 260watts being divided to 3 plants in the fullspectro tent model, did not get much difference in temperatures compared to HPS, is more the same spectro ratio and UV to reach more directly in the trichomes and terpenes. Moc medium leaves look more like Indica while larger leaves bring one more sativa a set a nice strong sweet smell, I prefer to conclude in the end the true tone I feel, she drinks more water than others the soil is easier to drain So I see in her an ability to take more quotas of nutris, slowly being able to take if necessary always try to avoid burns ...
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📆 Semana 8: ¡Últimos riegos con nutrientes para la Gorilla Cookies! Esta semana hemos realizado el último aporte de nutrientes, manteniendo el equilibrio de PK para asegurar el máximo engorde antes del lavado de raíces. Las dosis han sido ajustadas para evitar acumulación de sales, y el pH se mantiene óptimo para maximizar la absorción. Los Adlite siguen demostrando su efectividad en esta etapa crítica. El Adlite UV55 ha impulsado el desarrollo de tricomas, logrando que la resina brille aún más bajo la luz. Por su parte, el Adlite Red55 ha intensificado el color y el volumen de los cogollos, consolidando flores compactas y aromáticas. La combinación con el Mars Hydro FC6500 continúa siendo excelente para mantener una luz intensa y homogénea en todo el dosel. Las temperaturas están controladas entre 23-25°C, y la humedad se mantiene en torno al 50-55% para evitar riesgos de moho o botrytis. Los aromas se están volviendo cada vez más complejos: la dulzura y el fondo terroso se intensifican, mientras que el característico toque a galleta de la Gorilla Cookies se hace más evidente. Los tricomas están mayormente lechosos, con algunos aún transparentes, pero sin presencia de ámbar, lo que indica que el proceso de maduración sigue en curso. Última fase de engorde y máxima expresión de resina... Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪
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Welcome to Flower Week 4-5 of Divine Seeds Auto Big Demon I'm excited to share my grow journey with you all as part of the Divine Seeds Autoflowering Competition 2025. It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this competition, I’ve chosen the Feminized Automatic strain: Big Demon Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Divine Seeds • 💧 Humidity Range: 90 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 8W-10W • Strain Info: 21-23%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 0.5l • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 200W x 2 A huge thank you to Divine Seeds for allowing me to be a part of this amazing competition and Sponsoring the Strains. Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!
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Let's be honest. These should have gone to flower months ago. Nevertheless, they look amazing, and they're going to flower this week. Plants have to move around so much that SCROG isn't really practical, and headspace is such an issue that these girls need to be tied down for a few weeks, hence the tomato cage/chicken wire solution. Stripped 'em up, flipping to 12/12 light schedule in a day or two.
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@Foxbud420
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Short Update: tommorow i will lollipoping them and a light defoliation. Next week i will do more defoliation. Next week i will post more. I show the cut from tommorow // the the aktual state after the cut.
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@SWITCH420
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Hi folks, I'm coming here to start the process of ending this grow journal. I harvested about three months ago and the weed is definitely cured. Photos are about to come — I'm doing a real studio photo shoot for those buds, they deserve it! While waiting for the shots, I made some pretty damn dank hash temple balls using the iced water extraction method (solvent-free) with my little washing machine. It's a mix of the 8 strains I grew here — never ideal to mix different kinds of resin... but man, this is some serious dedicated work, so I'm making myself happy with that 14g shiny temple ball in the end 😉 Here are a few details about my process for you guys (and don't forget — you can do it with fresh material! Fresh frozen is always tastier. Also, the drying process is much more efficient and faster with a freeze dryer, but... you need the budget for that. I don't, so I go with the air drying method — check it out below): 1. Get your dry trim, then cure it properly for at least a month (I did 3 months). Smell it — mmh, sweet, dried to perfection. ✅ 2. Freeze it, delicately wrapped in a freezer bag. 3. Let a large amount of tap water sit for at least 24h to remove chemicals like chlorine, then use it to make plenty of ice cubes — don't be shy, especially if you're not working in a cool environment. 4. Prep your washing machine: add trim between two layers of ice, fill up with clean water (as much as you can, large vortex is better than a smaller one), then make it seat for 30 min (45 min for thicker buds) the time that the dried green material gets wet again. 5. Prep your filtering tools: catch bag, different mesh bags, spoon, etc. 6. Wash as many times as you can before green contaminants appear, as these lower the quality of your hash — don't hesitate to go up to 8 to 12 washes if the resin still looks clean! Important: each wash has its own specific duration, and they get progressively longer as you advance through the process. Frenchy Cannoli (a true hash legend) provides a detailed timetable for this — from as little as 30 seconds to 1 minute for the first wash, all the way up to around 25 minutes by wash 8. Make sure to follow that schedule rather than using the same duration for every run or running it too long the first wash !! It could breaks to quickly your precious material before you collect all the trich's and the quality would be lower in the end. 7. Collect the wet resin in the mesh bags with a frozen metal spoon, make patties with the resin, and let them sit over some towels in order to drain as much water as possible (place a tissue made for hash collecting over the towel). 8. When the patties are a little dry to the touch, wrap them as they are in the tissue and place them in the freezer for 48h or more. 9. With an iron strainer, microplane your patties over the biggest flat surface you can get! It's important that your micro pieces of hash dry widely and don't get too compacted. Any failure in the air drying process will nucleate rot, ruining your hash in the end and making it a poor product — eventually something to throw away. Sad when you think about all the phases of the process to get to this point! 10. So, in order to air dry properly, you must — it's not optional — lower the RH of your dry room to 35% or slightly below, never above and let it dry as long as needed until the material feels like dry sand. For myself, I found 10 to 15 days is ideal. The room must be very lightly ventilated (not directly on your resin!) and in complete darkness — the goal is to preserve all those delicious terpenes! Ideally, temps around 60°F or 16°C 11. Now that it's dry, collect your resin with a large thin spatula! Make a little mound between two layers of PaperHash, boil some water, and fill up a wine bottle with it! ⚠️ From this point on, to avoid exposing your carefully dried resin to a more humid environment — which could ruin all your hard work — everything must happen in the same drying room. Keep working at 35% RH until your temple ball is tightly and airtight wrapped in PaperHash. (And don't forget to drink water — it's dry in there! 💧) 12. Start to slowly press your resin. Magical moment. Finally.... 13. Press 3 times for 10 to 15 minutes in order to really decarb your hash — because that's what it's all about! Between each press, try as best you can to shape a patty... until the final press, when you'll be able to form that magical shiny temple ball (it only shines with gloves on, guys 😄) 14. You are now allowed to try it — for quality control purposes only, of course! 15. Because you want to age your hash for the sweetest 5-star smoking experience: wrap your temple ball in a large piece of PaperHash — if you can get that brand it's ideal, or another kind (check https://thepressclub.co) as long as it's organic! 16. Place the wrapped temple ball in a glass jar and store it in a dark, cool place. 17. Wait a minimum of 3 months before opening it. 18. Open, smell, touch — you'll be amazed. Roll it up with some weed or tobacco or both (I do both) / Or get a Hooka... you are smoking some true primo aged hash made by yourself! Taste the difference and realize all the path from choosing the seeds online until this first amazing puff ... 🙏 I want to credit my inspiration for making this kind of hash to the great Frenchy Cannoli, who has shared all his knowledge through amazingly rich tutorial content that you can find online with a bit of searching. 😉 Peace Frenchy 🕊️☮️