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@MarcoP
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Before drying, she smelled a little spicy, after drying, she just smells sweet & creamy, amazing smell. Her taste while smoking is insane, it really tastes like you took a spoon of some berry-orange type of ice cream, no spicyness, just bare candy terps. The buds are rock solid and she is covered in frost. Opening the jars is like sticking your nose in a bag of candy. Her effects are relaxing, she really makes you stoned, beautiful night time smoke
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@J_diaz420
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Esta semana todo tranquilo, en un par de días más haré poda de bajos y defoliación . También se colocaran tutores de vara a cada planta
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@Endriu
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Hello Bros&Sis! Ciao!😊 this time I've decided to made a video update, from the start of the week to the finish, we're gonna see some BIG differences! (The longest is from the end) About the ladies: Girls in coco Royal AK- she's drinking every single drop op solution and has literally exploded! I'm really happy about her training (top/lst/hst). A very strong strain. OG Kush- I don't get this girl, she's definitely not an heavy drinker. Speedy Chile FF- when I re-potted her into 6lt pot, some of my Bros hoped for a Baobab, what do you think?😂 (has some mutations, has a growth of 3 leaves and then 2 branches have joined together and the other has grown normally) Ladies in Soil: UK Cheese auto- I've broke a branch due to heavy crop. Lesson learned. Pink Doc CBD auto- she's growing good, finally! The only thing I'm worried about is that she will not grow so much, because switch is near. Candy Kush Express- A really nice lady, not too tall, good side branches and she take everything with no care less (one of the most "broken" in the tent) Special Kush#1- She likes her new pot, but there's something wrong (see leaves) maybe related to VPD or RU? I've used different techniques on this ladies, but the one I like the most is cropping the branches and the main stems and also broke the branches where meets the stems, to give'em more power, and more "space" for nutrients transports in sight of bloom! That's all mate, we will see soon for the next update! Ciao!😙 (hey @Growdiaries if you want to use my video, feel free to do it, but please, don't change the music, it's already on YT and for CC use)
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Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.
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@Arcadium
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Warming up nicely, 22c days, 10c nights, finally some more rapid growth. Final top of all 16 leading nodes this week, of which I've left the first nodes (removed second, topped third) after the last top as secondary branches. This should give a total of 64 primary nodes. You'll notice the right side gets a little less sun, and there's a few pesky nodes that just refuse to grow, Ohh well, there's enough as is, but the symmetry won't be perfect haha. Will measure and order a proper scrog net this week, generally won't put it on until shortly after final flower stretch. I'll be using bud clips for simple LST to try and keep an even canopy. I've been bending some nodes towards the middle to help it fill in. Nothing but drip irrigation 2hrs and a spray of Lost Coast Plant Therapy this week.
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@BigDaddyK
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Thursday 4/7/19 - happy Independence Day ! - day 8 flower Just noticed it has deleted all my nutrient list , sigh Changed solution Saturday 6/7/19 Sunday 7/7/19 - removed more chiff at the bottom , to promote the top growth Tuesday added more pics Wednesday removed more shot at bottom I check ph and EC daily and topup as necessary
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Due to construction and revamping of our space, we had to leave all seedlings in their germination dome for approximately a month before getting them into veg. In order to not run into any space issues within the small dome, these young plants were kept under a low-wattage fluorescent tube to avoid any growth which may have been "too vigorous." VEG WEEK 1: 03/09/2021: (Image 1) Each plant was potted into, and fed with the following nutrients during transplant: 1. 5l FF F1 medium 2. GHF: Biogrow - 15g worked into medium 3. Wormcastings (workd into medium and astop dress) 4. Organics Matter Mycoroot Supreme -placed at the bottom of the planting hole. 5. Watered each plant with a Silicon Plus feed solution . 07/09/2021: (Image 2) - All plants are now in 5l pos with Freedom Farms F1 medium, and are in their new veg home under a 3500K 320W Quantum Board. - The 3 weakest seedlings of the total 19 seeds (1x Crit and 2x PC) were placed on the left side of the tent, and in different pots, as they are obviously struggling and may not even make it into our final flower room.
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@Nedyah420
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Getting sooo close i can almost taste it....will begin flushing with distilled watet until harvest..
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1 moth passed from germination. In result we have 12 strong plants and 4 reduced. They begin presenting wonderful scent! Increased my led on 40 % of power and it seems great. Buen fin de semana a todos !
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@Canna96
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Hey now, this week went pretty well, I did get the second toppings completed on day 39, and then I started LST on new growth on day 41. I have one more topping and I will wait to top at the 3rd node so I can spread her out a bit and try to fill the entire 4X4. After that the final topping will be done on the 1st nodes and spread out a little through LST. I am Still feeding the same, running a 400W MH Bulb 18/6, and feeding the same silica/cal mag/maxi gro. I am probably going to transplant later this week to her final 12.5 Gallon home and give the other plant away to a friend who is super excited to get it. I hope everyone is having a great weekend, be safe and Blaze On!
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@Jorgeeee
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Todas the feminazed one (2si 2) is showing extrange sign like holes and colors. I dont know if it’s caused by am old ph problem or what?🤔
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@Johnny_0G
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What a monster I'm happy to have stepped up to the big pot. I'm going bigger 😳🤓.... This girl is a little restricted but I gave her a good defoli and the smooth light is spread out as best as i can get.
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@Marccap1
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Another hot week in cali... But my ladies are loving it... As you can see... Well stay safe people and stay hi!
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Week 9 their wasn’t any real changes. Everything is on par with week 8. Girl #1 looks like she’s starting to gain some more weight. I’m satisfied with her progression so far. Girl #2 still hasn’t shown any flowering. I will keep It short this week. Nothing really to report. I’m excited for the next coming weeks. Thank you for viewing my diary.
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The start of week 3 veg I’ve been LSTing the plant I notice development drastically every 12hrs and now just starting to spot the development of side branches and new nodes I am following shogun nutrient schedu
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Unos esquejes brutales pero las condiciones del cultivo no fueron óptimas tuvimos retrasos al principio con el crecimiento problemas de nitrogeno, algo de humedad alta al principio de la floración y aun así salió el producto muy bueno, tanto de sabor como de cómo con. Sencillez es fácil de cultivar es rápida de cojones y además es resistente.