Everything going good. I only give the Holganix once a month

Fucking trees!!! Plants just broke my indoor plant height record by 2" now. I don't think this is going to brake my gram records tho. Compared to my other tent the buds are a lot smaller and then 2 of the plants have had issues since the start and don't have very many bud locations on them. But who knows they might suprising me at the end of the grow. Plant sizes Brain cake #1 - 51" Brain cake #2 - 53" Brain cake #3 - 48" Brain cake #4 - 32" Well that's all for this tent. Happy growing everyone's!!!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

The moisture in the soil after the first 3 days of transplant was wetter than I anticipated. I've been using a '3 gallon' flowering pot - separated evenly for all 10 of my clones - Gnats and flies have been coming so this I believed to be an indication that my soil is too wet I believe. The next following three weeks I am going to be doing about '1 1/2 gallons' per ALL 10 plants - seperated evenly. These last couple days i've been letting the plants soak up all the available moisture... Hoping maybe my overwatering will be affected in a positive way in regards to the new root formations. My PH coming out of my tap hose is around 7.8 - this is something i'd like to keep constant for this season if I can. I'm not seeing any sign of stress, discoloration, or anything yet. I understand ideally it would be smarter to lower it a couple numbers, however it makes it easier to not have to get a PH down and mix into my watering solution - DO YOU THINK THIS HIGH PH WILL AFFECT MY YIELD AND PLANTS LIFE EVENTUALLY ?!?! The plants are all looking healthy so far I think, let me know what you think cannabis fam!! Air quality very poor and smokey in California this week- 7/6/21

das 1 mal Dünger in der 7 Vegi Woche... Lampe läuft weiterhin auf 60% leistung. Ca 600 PPFD jetzt ende der Woche Lichtzyklus auf 12/12 gestellt.

She had 10l this week in dry side , visit her once every 3-4 days to check the reservoir , excited as she’s coming down soon , maybe 20-30days left

Always R.O Water Watering the plant 3 times for per week 1st Watering with nutriens. (750 ppm) (23.03.2023) 4 liter 2st Watering with nutriens. (750 ppm) 3st Watering with only R.O water & CalMag. (300 ppm) 1000 ppfd

Chopped down and trimmed 2 of my plants today at the end of their 2 week flush, will cut down the last plant next week and put my harvest weight up for the 2 plants worth of dried bud. Took about 4 hours to trim the 2 and I'm happy with the results, not sure how much is there but I'd rather weight til it's dry before I weigh it. There was also some strange looking new growth at the base of one of the plants, quite a few shoots with flowers so went through it and got about 30 good looking seeds out of it bit weird in my opinion but fair enough.. gonna carry these with me in a tin and plant them wherever I see a good spot outdoors and see what happens 😋 Hung them up today to dry as I didn't realize they would eventually go flat and take ages to dry if left in the trays 🙄🙄 should be alright now hopefully 🤞 The bud are nice and dry now after 5 days hung up, gonna leave them up another day as I've got some bovida 62 packs coming tomorrow that I'm gonna put in the jars 😊 gonna chop down the rest of the last plant tomorrow as well then hang that up to dry.

So we are approaching the end of week 4 and she is in 100 percent flower mode now, she's looking a touch pale as I gave her a water through to check the EC which came out at 1.0 and since then I've been waiting for her to dry out and now she is on full dose of everythin which is an EC of 1.9-2.0 The stretch finished about Wednesday/Thursday this week and i would say ive still got a bit of head room so the next ones I might let get a bit taller Hopefully in about 4 weeks she will be ready for the chop, im anticipating some proper weight and resin production in the next 2 weeks 🤞 Happy growing everyone!!

📆 Semana 9 El cultivo entra en maduración final, con cogollos más densos y compactos y una resina ya muy marcada. Los tricomas están mayoritariamente lechosos, con algunos ámbar empezando a aparecer. Se diferencian claramente los dos genotipos: el más rápido ya está en fase de corte en unas 2 semanas, mientras que el más espigado sigue engordando y madurando, con unas 3 semanas por delante. La canopia se mantiene uniforme y el aroma sigue intensificándose, marcando el carácter final de cada planta. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

will be back with this strains im ok with No air conditioner!!! dry : 60G it ok i will play this with strain’s again

Explosive growth this week! Must of doubled in size. Some kind of hungry insects, caterpillars maybe? Minor leaf damage, nothing major. Going to keep up with Neam/Aloe/Kelp spray. No rain in the foreseeable future, 26c every day, early summer for sure. Doesnt appear to need any extra nutrients, will add some more Gaia Green next week. I've had Lupins here for the past few years, which are Legumes and have great nitrogen fixing qualities, not to mention this entire patch of land had 20 years of old decaying blackberry bramble which were cleared 3 years ago when we bought the place, and the soil is some of the richest I've ever seen. No shortage of Nitrogen in there. I'll be honest, this plant is twice the size this time of year then the last 2 years I've been growing outdoors. I'm a little concerned I'll need my ladder come Oct! I did FIM once earlier in the week, will FIM ever 2-3 weeks till July to try and keep the height under control.

Two of the smaller plants I will not be creating 12 colas. The remaining ones I have trained the same. Removing the second and third nodes off each arm. And topping the end of each arm. Creating 6 on each side. They are very slow to recover. But will be vegging longer this time. And this time not using nutes every water which I think has been my problem in the past even though biobizz state they can be given every watering.

Got a little hot outside this week again and temps in the tents reached a high of 92. They hovered around 85-88 most of the time, and nighttime temps around 75. The plants have been loving the tropical like environments, and in fact showing less signs of stress now they are in warmer temps. I got my magnesium dialed back in with a few applications of Epsom Salt. The pants drank twice as normal this week. I also gave them a feeding with my fermented fruit juice I made and they seem to be loving it. I got a new bottle of cal-mag and does not seem to be as acidic, so i can add a little more than I was without it ruining my ph. It too about 15ml per gallon of the FFJ to Ph my water down form 7.8 to 6.5. I tested it before use and its PH is around 2.5. Between the Epsom salt, FFJ, and kelp. The plants are really starting to bounce back from their slight unhappiness. They are all looking near 100 percent health. At the end of the week they are are raging and praying to the light like theirs no tomorrow. Glowing vibrant lush green, the buds are also already a decent size for only being week 2. The plants and in much need of some defoliation but I will wait one more week after stretch to get that taken care of. The dehumidifier running during night cycle has been keeping things in check. The clones rooted and I potted them up to 1 gallon so I now have small moms. I got new worms and my worm bins cleaned out and set up again. Each of the 65 gallon pots got a small ball of worms added to the top soil to get the worm populations growing in them again. I was hoping those casting I added a few weeks ago with added worm eggs would hatch some but no luck so i just got some from Uncle Jim's worm farm.

Let’s just say for what I got out of this plant, I’m extremely pleased. This plant was put through a lot of stress and never really skipped a beat. I stunted the growth early on in the seedling stage, I then decided mid veg state that I wanted to do coco coir instead of DWC bucket, which then slowed it down a few days, then during my first time doin any training to a plant I snapped the main node off slowing it down again. My cat then one day got into my tent when it was down while I went to use the restroom, and ended up digging out an entire side of the pots and roots. I truly thought this was the end of this plants life, I decided to just let it go and hopefully I could maybe get some small stuff to make some butter with or something. She bounced back from even the cat attack and produced something very great. All in all this was really fun to grow, she was resilient as hell and would love to try this strain again with no hiccups down the road in the near future. Lastly, thank you to everyone who has liked or commented on this journal. I hope to see and hear from you on my other diaries. I look forward to the feedback y’all leave me. 🤙🏼

I think Iv burnt one of the Santa Marta’s, can anyone confirm this from the videos/photos ? Other then that all is well. I actually just flipped to 12/12 to start flowering the photoperiods that are surrounding the 4 autos. Might try a scrog net for the fist time when the autos are done. Stay high growmies 🤙🐞

Royal Amnesia Haze is now giving its best and everything coincided with the start of the truly exceptional Easy Grow booster as a fertilizer. It was enough to dissolve half a tablet in two liters of water and the result was very interesting because it does not stink unlike other organic fertilizers. The beginning of this treatment started the grand plan with the photos of the two weeks and you will understand. For now, organic fertilizers are very promoted.

Videos for week 5

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Day70 arrosage avec 20 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 Day72 arrosage avec 30 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 Day74 arrosage avec 20 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 Day76 arrosage avec 40 centilitres d'eau ph6.3 Cette semaine c'est bien passée les buds grossissent lentement mais sûrement je pense pratiquer la technique du tronc fendu une semaine avant la récolte qui ne devrait plus trop tarder. Je ferais une explication complète lors de la semaine ou je la pratiquerais (avec video tutorial)