Some trichomes are clear others are turning cloudy , still no Amber. I'll lower the feed from now with a view to harvesting in the next week to ten days .

La Etapa de Enraizamiento la desarrollo perfectamente igual que en crecimiento y en Floración, de 10 todo. Pensé que iba hacer difícil de cultivar ya que no es fácil esta genética. Recomiendo como ya dije al banco de semillas BSF y a Top Crop por los buenos productos! El 26/07 corte la planta para ya iniciar su etapa en secado, vamos a ir viendo como va surgiendo.

All these beautiful girls are going thre flush now getting ready to harvest up they are all very resiny an covered in trichromes all the nugs are nice an dense an are smelling amazing can't wait to be able to dry an start curing them

How To Make and Use Organic Super Soil Seedsman Seeds Peyote Wifi Harvest Well here we are at the conclusion to many months of planning and preparation plus another 23 weeks of Growing. I Did a lot of reading and researching super soils and how they are made before I decided to actually make some . Then I thought to myself I should document the whole process from start to finish in diary form. This way any other growers who are interested can have a basic idea of where to start. and the likely conditions they may face. All of this began way back in August of 2019 when I first mixed the super soil mix (which can be found by looking at week one) aproximately Three months after that I started this grow and 23 weeks later Here we are at the end. Along the way I described the methods I was using to keep the soil fully active and productive at all times. Plus also some of my pre planning tips for flowering time. For example in week four.... I innoculated with the Mycorrhizal kit as instructed on the packaging next week I'll give the soil some help by feeding some seaweed solution mixed with mollasses and worm castings. This will provide a boost for both the plant via the roots and also benefit the millions of tiny microbes that live within the soil. Simply mixing and using the super soil as is will still work fine however by keeping the soil in perfect health as well as the Plant itself will pay dividends come harvest time. Week Six.... It can pay to plan ahead now for when the plant gets bigger and will need support. With this in mind I am going to use a premade wire Tomato type cage that is 1.5m high. This will hopefully provide enough support for the plants frame when it goes into Flower Next year. Planning ahead can sometimes help prevent potential issues from effecting your grow. Some things to think about and plan ahead for are as I mentioned Plant stability and support when it gets bigger. Week nine..... Planning ahead still I decided to dig a big hole aprox 1.5 meters by 80cm and to a depth of about 4 foot . Took a few hours of digging and shovelling but the end result with the plant lowered down into it makes it worth my effort and Back pain that will follow 😏 By doing this I have created a much cooler Root zone by having the pot well below surface level But Ive also knocked 4 feet off the overall plants profile which will aid me in my other concerns being Security. Week thirteen.... Diamotaceous Earth acts as a bug deterrent and can't hurt the plant in any way. I also mix some into the worm tea that I feed straight to the soil as Diatomaceous Earth is a fantastic source of Silica which we all know is extremely beneficial to your Plants Health. As Far as my super soil is concerned , so far I have not needed to feed the plants any fertilisers as the soil is providing everything the plant needs. All ive been adding is biodynamic food for the soil itself to keep everything under the surface happy and well nourished. Once flowering begins next month I will need to add an organic Booster to the soil that will replace any depleted resources. ***** But not everything went smoothly in fact I did the most damage to the plant in Week 17 I decided to be stupid and spray all my girls with potassium bicarbonate thinking it would "mold proof" my plants WRONG all did was burn the absolute shit out of the leaves. From then on it was a constant struggle to get this girl to produce anything because along with the foliar burning I also had to contend with next to no sunshine for many days at a time plus the constant leaf dropping no doubt reduced my potential yield. ****** Not everything was Doom and gloom either in fact by Week twenty one.... The Quality however is definately showing itself, with every single bud covered in visible frosty looking trichomes. The smell is really really Funky with undertones of spices. So even tho I'll probably only get around half of what I was hoping for ,the bud that I do get will be straight up fire. 👌 In the Final week before I chopped .... The Buds although very delicate and light, look very Frosty and Delectable. As for the super soil it is absolutely chock full of nutritional value so I will use it to Grow a fine crop of Broad beans this coming Winter. The growing of Legumes in the soil will actually benefit the soils health in many ways including making the nitrogen within the soil more readily available. **** On the 18th of March 2020 I chopped her down and hung the plant upside down in the greenhouse overnight. Next day I removed all the buds and stripped them off the branches. The buds then went into a hanging drying rack until adequately Dried for the trimming. After the first trim the buds went into paper bags for more drying time (aprox 3-5 days depending on temp rh weather etc) They then got a bit more of a trim and went into the Jars for Curing. I have had quite a few bongs of this already and I must say it is Really good hey!! So in Conclusion I hope that this Diary may help somebody who may be interested in growing organically with soil outdoors or indoors as well as provide an insight into how the use of all natural ingrediants can produce Good buds. Whilst this particular plant didn't get Big buds the Quality was outstanding and you only need to check out some of the other plants I have growing in the same soil mix as to the validity of of its Fertility. Now we come to the End of this Grow I'd like to thank a few growers who offered advice and/or support along the way @ROM101 @Med_in_Tropic @F4m0u5 @Shooey @MagicMan @Spinnnn Thanks guys I appreciate it Also thankyou you for reading this Diary and please leave a like at the end if you liked it Cheers Grey_Wolf Post harvest notes ; its now the 1st of May and the Broad beans and Peas that I planted in the super soil are doing very nicely this will not only provide me and my family quality organic food for our table but also the growing of legumes helps fix nitrogen to the soil and keeps it living and healthy for the next time I need it for canna 👍💪 Best way to be folks self sustainable and recycling your soil mixes will help reduce our footprint on the planet and save us money too 👍 So what are you waiting for Grab some basic organic ingrediants and make yourself some Organic super soil 👍👌 ##### Final update for this diary 31st May 2020 It's been just over 2 months since I harvested this Peyote Wifi plant and the buds have been curing for that time . Today I chose a bud to test and I am blown away by the perplexity of the high and taste profile , Bloody amazing 👍####### Thats it folks All over now after 3 months of making the soil then another 24 weeks of growing the plant and then another 2 months of curing to get to here 31st May 2020 It was a great fun grow and I hope I have inspired some of you to try making your own batch of Organic super soil 👍

When I decided to start growing, I knew it was likely going to be hard, though interesting, work. What I didn’t expect was that it would be this much fun 😄 It’s been a pure pleasure watching their growth slow down while their calyx’s fatten, multiply and get frostier by the day. I lowered their nutrients because their leaf tips were showing signs of burn. Some leaves were also showing potassium deficiency, but I think that’s a result of their pH constantly jumping to 6.4 because they were under feeding most of last week.

Last week of veg, starting 12/12 from now till the end.

Changed light to 12-12 4 days ago keen to see how she goes , already noticed a surge in growth. Same same next week , defol , tie down and feed her up

Nice! Let's say I look forward more to smoking it than trimming it The tops have some different shapes because I used the "back building" technique I'll add some more pictures on tuesday. You can right click and open the image in a new window to get a better look

Im so happy with how these girls are turning out..these are both photoperiods and are in grape containers from the supermarket. They are taking the training very well and im very pleased with the development and growth

July 22 - Temp(High/Low) 30/20 Rain(mm) 0.0 July 23 - Temp(High/Low) 31/20 Rain(mm) 0.0 July 24 - Temp(High/Low) 29/21 Rain(mm) 6.0 July 25 - Temp(High/Low) 26/17 Rain(mm) 0.0 July 26 - Temp(High/Low) 25/16 Rain(mm) 0.0 July 27 - Temp(High/Low) 27/17 Rain(mm) 0.0 July 28 - Temp(High/Low) 29/18 Rain(mm) 0.0 Good week. Had a little shower in the 24th and she is just starting to dry out.

The smells on these autos is just insane! Great terps, decent yield for an auto and should have been better but I screwed up the DWC in the transition weeks/- hard with multiple autos in one dwc bucket

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Watching these lava cakes grow is a nice privilege. Ill be pushing them 1 week longer do to a trip change. But I think things will end nicely. 2 more weeks until I start flushing.

Well growmies this one is a keeper that's for sure 👈 couldn't of asked for better Genetics 😉 She lead the pack during the entire grow .... Amazing Plant 👉 Big thanks to all my Growmies out there in GD land 👈 Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks To MarsHydro for the TS1000 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34

Sorry for the long break, I was in the hospital and couldn't do anything, so I skipped a week. 😏😅 This is the first time I have used a different brand of fertilizer for these plants, Madame Grow from the USA. I'm curious how it works and what the result looks like otherwise ALWAYS Biobizz, of which I also use the All Mix!👌 I am going to top the 3 feminized plants again today because of the size 😁🤔 The automatic is already full but I am almost sure that I planted it too early 😁🤔it is my first automatic 😁🤣 We'll see, my balcony project remains exciting! In this sense, stay healthy and cool 😉👌👍

🌿 Once again, we had very sunny days this week 🌞🌞🌞and another heat wave is coming 😍😍😍 Fourth week of Light Deprivation 👉👉👉👉Every morning at 8:30 am I move the plant in the greenhouse. 👉👉👉👉Every evening at 8:30 pm I move the plant (together with some other strains) inside the growroom (which I don't use in the summer) The plant is making new flowers everyday and she is starting to smell now 👃👃👃 👉 I give the plants every other day a liquid booster with OPF 4:2:8 ; Fulvic 25 ; Yuccah ; Biovin liquid ; Earthworm compost extract. Big Thanks to Luc from Plant Health Solutions / Bioplantenvoeding dot nl 🙏🙏🙏