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Started doing some light defoliation a bit each day on the very low level offshoots and any big leafs blocking main bud sights. Looking back I should have done a bit more earlier on as these are very heavy and leafy plants. At the start of the week my light was at 55%, on 13 Nov I put it to 100% to see how they react. I will monitor to see if they are ready for it but they really took off this last week. My one plant in the back left always appears droopy compared to the others because the leafs on it are so big it weighs down the whole plant. The plant in the back right was always janky and I considered not even growing it. The seed came through a few days later than the rest and I almost wrote it off. Figured I would use it as an experiment and try and learn from it instead.
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Seit 2 tagen gibt es nur noch Wasser aus dem Wasser Hahn Ohne Chlor aber mit Sauerstoff mit PH 7,8 Wasser aus Rohr Leitungen enthält weniger Sauerstoff als beispielsweise Regenwasser. Ich habe den Ph wert aber seit 3 Wochen nicht gemessen Weil ich vermutlich einen zu niedrigen PH Wert hatte durch meine Dünger Mischung BioBiZz wie oben angegeben. Ich habe noch nie PH up benutzt oder benötigt bis jetzt.
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@Roberts
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Bruce Banner #3 Fast is doing her thing. She is growing great under the Hortibloom Solux 350. She got defoliated, and some root pruning. I will likely be changing light times next update. Thank you Hortibloom, and The Original Sensibile Seeds Company. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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Fail .... Nitrogen fail ... And Red spider in final stage ... I think the roddy spiders were present in the soil used .. and they infested more plants ... .. despite all this, it is an excellent cannabis i grow again
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Day 39 to 46 of flower Basically the girls are on autopilot, with the autopots and Gaia green there really isn't much to do, both methods are super user friendly and the basic needs that need to be meet are just ph water in the reservoir every couple days and then watch them stack buds on top of buds...Occasionally I move a branch over to another square in the net to make room but Basically after the last top feeding it's just watch and weight, pun intended....
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Ok so this week I did a defoliation and a tigh down too the netting , I really was not planning on doing such a big defoliation but the leafs became thick and dense and there was almost no light penitration down too the lower branches of the plant , so she is opened right up now and the humidity and temperature has dropped loads and the air is moving alot better around the leaves and branches , I will not take anything more off her now , I have also added Cal mag too the nutrients for this week only , she is well into pre flower now but the stretch has not yet started so I figured it's no or never too defoliate and tigh them down , I am very happy with them so far and being new too all this it's all very exciting , Thanks for looking :)
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End of week 9 and I'm seeing just a few amber trichomes and most of hairs have turned brown so she'll most likely get chopped during week 10.
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@CalGonJim
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1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY EDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂
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@AsNoriu
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Day 50. Oh boy .... Most challenging healthy grow I ever had ... Have loads of things covering each other and it's hard to understand, but they constantly unhappy .... Low temps day and nights, different rate of watering, wind damages, too intense lights, understanding feeding with living soil, too high humidity for best VPD and so on .... Loads of challenges !!!! So I decided to harm them more ;))) In the middle of action I was almost regretting it ... But heavy defoliation, SuperCroping and lolitoping session is DONE !!! All 3 Northern Lights are worst in this run. Smallest plant is still in veg or early preflower. All 3 Green Cracks found strength and power and now at least two plants look very decent !! Alaskan Diesel is my love of this run !!! Amazing strain, super fast, super healthy and productive !!! Hope after all that heavy training my humidity will be back to desired 65 , not 70+. Day 52. Long story - short : I am f@ckingly HAPPY, that I did it, plants grew 7 more cm, colas on some and quantity are INSANE !!! Video tells it all ... Day 56. Even if I'll screw up @Seedsman is amazing house ! They just overgrew my setup, I can't crop 25-20 colas on each plant, so tops are burning a bit and yellowing, not best for photos, but amazing for quantity still !!!! ;)))) For this not to be all fun, today I had two hours without electricity, temps dropped to 13 in the night .... All heaters were off ... Happy Growing !!!
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Flowering Week 6 – Fading Leaves, Persistent Flies The sixth week of flowering brought a mix of progress and persistent problems. The whitefly issue unfortunately hasn’t gone away. I replaced both yellow sticky traps at the end of the week, and within minutes, two new whiteflies were already spotted on the fresh left trap. The old one had four additional flies on the back. This pest pressure remains a concern, but I’ve decided to hold off on further neem oil sprays for now, given how far along we are in flowering. I’ll keep monitoring closely. Nutrient-wise, I stayed cautious this week due to ongoing signs of overfeeding. Leaf tips are still showing yellowing and some burn, especially on the lower leaves. Many leaves have pronounced yellow spots and curled tips — a clear sign of excess nutrients earlier on. To reduce stress, I watered with plain pH-adjusted water (5.5–6.0). Total watering volume was approximately 29 liters This week I also did a second round of lollipopping, focusing on removing all small popcorn buds and lower growth under the net that wouldn’t develop well. Despite the nutrient stress and the ongoing whitefly presence, the plants are still developing well. Buds are getting chunkier, trichome production is visibly increasing, and the overall structure is solid. Still, I’ll be keeping a close eye on both leaf health and pest activity in the coming days. ⸻ TL;DR – Week 6: • New whiteflies still showing up – 7 total seen this week. Both sticky traps replaced. • Additional lollipopping done: removed popcorn buds and shaded growth under SCROG. • Leaf symptoms (tip burn, spotting) persist – watered with plain pH water, once with half HESI dose. • Watered 3x this week: 9.5 L (pH only) • Light stayed at intensity level 7
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hello some news on vegetation day 22, start the bio grow, and bend the four Lateral head, and crap when i bend a stem has cracked but she is not cut I straighten them with a piece of iron she can go back. 😀👍
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Week 2 for our ztrawberriez from the fastbuds family All looks good and the buds are forming real quick, we continue for now with master root and master bloom, next week we start to add some more addictives Some plants had a little to much nutrients but we corrected the dosis and continue with a little less bloom nutrients! For the rest all good!!
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- LAS PLANTAS SIGUEN CON EL MISMO PLAN NUTRICIONAL - NO SE VEN CARENCIAS NI EXCESOS - el hps de 600 MANTIENE MI AMBIENTE SIN MAYORES INCONVENIENTES -NO SE VEN PLAGAS NI MAYORES PROBLEMAS
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I've been a bit hands off this week again. The Black Jack and NYC started to get a little yellow at the bottom, so I could have probably started feeding more a couple of days earlier, but I didn't notice until I was ready to turn on the AutoPots. The reservoir was filled with 20l, and I can already see a growth spike starting. I'll probably top them all in the next few days and flip to flower shortly after.
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@Luv2Grow
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This girl took very well to LST and defoliating. Didn’t notice any sort of stunting from the defoliating, she chugged on as if nothing happened to her.
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At this point, you just do what you gotta do. Beautiful process of learning that comes to an end. Now we just have to wait until it's ready to smoke, maybe in a couple of weeks.