Well the grow was very pleasant, she got amazing structure an look of the buds, very frosty and amazing smell...so thank you Mephisto genetics you did insane job. i have ordered few seed from Mephisto but they lost i guess(((coz i have not receive them. So thanks guys for support and helping me for this grow all GD Family,Luv you all!!! Peace

Como es un cultivo s.o.g hice el transplante rápidamente el día 12, para dejar crear raices ya que se pasará a floración tempranamente por el día 20 a 25 de vegetación, se transplanto de 1 a 5 lts. El día 14 se hará 1° riego con fertilizante y el día 15 ya se hará riego foliar con estimulador de floración delta 9 para próximamente pasar a floración ✌️🍀💚

Welcome to Auto Alaskan Purple Grow by PoshGrow! 🍀 Week #2 2020 July 30th - August 6th General Info: When planted: 2020 July 23th. Week: 2 Days: 7 - 14 Last Update Day: 2020 August 6th. Plants: 5 Alaskan Purple Auto. Equipment: Tent: MarsHydro 1mx1mx2m or 39"x39"x72". Light: HLG 260w V2 Rspec QB Kit. Exhaust: 4" 322 CFM fan + Viper Carbon Filter. Intake: 4" 100 CFM Inline Fan. Oscillating Fan: Lower: 4" Ram Fan. Upper: 16" Oscillating Ram Fan. Humidifier: Taotronics TT-AH001. Dehumidifier: Pavlit MD750. Soil: NPK soil 40% Compost, 50% Peat Moss, 10% Agroperlite. Pot: 7 gallon Fabric Pot x 5pcs. Nutriens: Fox Farm Trio. PH Correcton: Chemoform pH-Minus Granulat. PH Pen: Cheap Chinese one, I callibrate it every time I use it. Comment:

When I attempted to defoliate her I guess I got too close to the main vein and killed the 8th branch, shitty. 7 tops it is The only video for all my diaries, don't have the time to wait for it to upload the video to every diary. Pretty disappointed in my strawberry but maybe she just wasn't the gal for me. She has one branch that never fully recovered from defoliating her. I'll try again next grow but maybe super-cropping and topping her is a better training route. I'm excited and kind of worried to see what kind of colas I get from a 9 week old plant plant with only 2 nodes on each branch. Please stretch...

Week 3, 22-28 August 2025 22-28 Aug - Observed and let the seedling grow. This was another rather slow week in growth. But there is still plenty of time for this seedling to become a nice plant. There was an issue with a leaf getting stuck under my PH monitor that eventually had to be removed, kind of early to be cutting off leaves but it is what it is. Added expanded clay pebbles to the plant pot to help extend the root system. This week was also the first reservoir nutrient change. - 27 Aug changed nutrient solution - 27 Aug updated feeding schedule - Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 - Adjusting PH to 6.1 daily using GH up/down - Nutrient solution EC 1.1 at 68 degrees F - Light power at 30%, DLI 18 canopy coverage at 18hrs - Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

when I came today, I didn't recognize her, she was eaten by snails, but she put out new branches, which grew rapidly :) she is already showing signs of rain :) or it is already the beginning of flowering:).

Primera semana de floración y a medida que crecen los brotes los voy pasando bajo la malla tratando de dejar los brazos más altos en las orillas, se ha regado foliarmente con delta 9 el cual se dio en dosis baja al sustrato al comenzar fotoperiodo de floración.

There are some things that still amaze me, one of these is the huge autoflowering that I can do lately. Today I harvested the second Green Crack F1 Hybrid Automatic by Zamnesia. ** Remember that for all strains we have at least two plants, one left to grow straight and one worked with the techniques (go back in the week too see). Technique Used // In this case we let the plant grow straight and it seems to have worked great. I think thanks to the Plagron additives we had powerful and fast growth very voracious in everything in fact it was very difficult to keep it in balance and not send it into over. Better with the techniques or normal? This time I have no doubts, even if this wonderful one had the grace of a slightly less cold vegetative there is no comparison it is a marvel of nature queata without the use of techniques but with a wise cleaning at the bottom to have only flowers of great quality. Zero popcorn totally. Flower quality // The plant has resined very well everywhere and unlike some autoflowering plants that fail to consolidate the flower here we have pure Carrara marble. A flower of this quality is truly a pleasure to see, touch, smell, feel. Exceptional. The trichomes are mostly milky, some transparent and some amber. Check the article in your language // https://www.zamnesia.io/it/guida-coltivare-cannabis/333-lavaggio-delle-ceme Feertilizers// I am very happy with how I managed to unload the plant that at a certain point before going flush was fed a few days only with additives and then went flush and we are discolored sufficiency. All the fertilizers and additives of Plagron in the green version / 100% organic have fully satisfied me. Choose your soil based on your style and calculate the sheet on the site www.plagron.com You can instead find the fertilizers in convenient all-inclusive packs on the Zamnesia site. Try a seed of this strain that drives us crazy.. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10677-zamnesia-seeds-green-crack-f1-automatic.html Zamnesia Description // Forget what you think you know about cannabis. Green Crack F1 Automatic by Zamnesia Seeds is here to shake up the entire industry. Using F1 genetics, growing cannabis has never been easier. These plants offer uniform and abundant yields. Get ready to harvest high-quality buds, full of flavor and amazing effects. Music and Frequencies // For about 4/6 hours a day my plants listen to 432Hz frequencies made especially for their well-being and sometimes a bit of black music to give them those vibrations that only music can give. www.radionula.com All the best that mother nature has to offer is at ---- www.zamnesia.com

6/14 Week 8 and things are going fairly well on the grow. Some issues with PH that I hope have been worked out by recaling all of them and using two to test PH. Bud building continues Basic nuets only till flush 6/15 Another day in the life... 6/16 Gave a shot of PK she is building so fast she just runs out of Phos and then CA cant do its work 6/17 Continuing PK one more day at least 2ml/gal and 1ml/gal Cal-Mag We have an explanation for the CA issues. This was bag coco not block, it came prewashed and buffered. Apparently the buffering was sub par and has degraded thus drawing CA from the plant and feed. Thus adding 1ml/gal Cal-Mag to compensate Once again DYOPW Do Your Own Prep Work 6/19 She is building buds faster than any plant we have grown to date. Going to split the cal-mag and pk feedings, morning PK evening cal-mag may just be a best practices thing and the time for both is very short Someone asked me a question on PK/cal-Mag and I didnt know they can conflict depending on the formulas involved. So safe is the word She is finishing up to flush stage anyway fewer new hairs so the ambering will increase wont be long now, within a few days.

Harvest Time!!!

Dear Growers , Welcome to Week 9 or Flower week 6 // Day 63-70 from Sweet Seeds Pineapple Slush Xl Auto. Incase of Moving to a New Home . I Decided to skip some Weeks from every Diarie of the 12x12 Automatic Project . Everything should be Normal in the next Weeks . Whether you're a beginner or an expert, you are warmly invited to join, ask questions, and share your own experiences along the way! Project Setup & Conditions: • Brand/Manufacturer: Sweet • Tent: 222cmx150cmx150cm • Light: 2x 720 Watt Full Spectrum • Humidity: 50% • Soil: Narcos Organix Mix • Nutrients: Narcos Products • pH Value: 6 If you want Germinitation results like mine , check out Kannabia Seeds with my link [https://www.kannabia.com/de?ref=61966] and grab the germination device or the strains I used . Trust me – it’s worth it for sure ! Get another 20% Discount at all products using the code [GGD] at the Checkout . Stay curious and keep up Growing —we look forward to welcoming you back for the next chapter soon!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553

Día 14 (05/05) Detecto minadores de las hojas (leaf miners)... Aplico foliarmente jabón potasico + aceite de neem sobre las babies Día 15 (06/05) Subo a DLI 40 Sigue sin necesitar riego... Hace una temperatura ambiente anormalmente fria para esta epoca del año Espero la explosión de crecimiento en los próximos días! Día 16 (07/05) Sigo sin regar... Día 17 (08/05) Sigo sin regar... Si el tiempo acompaña, las sacaré al exterior el domingo! Día 18 (09/05) Sigo sin regar... Día 19 (10/05) Baño de sol de 4 horas! Sigo sin regar... Día 20 (11/05) Y seguimos sin regar... Vaya ciclo más raro... 🚀 FastBuds 15% DISCOUNT code "NONICK" 2fast4buds.com @fastbuds.official 💦 BioTabs 15% DISCOUNT code "GDBT420" biotabs.nl/en/shop/ @biotabs_official 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE @promixmitch @promixgrowers_unfiltered

Ya cambiamos al ambiente final! Se realizó una poda de bajos, una buena Defoliación y LST

Transplanted on last day of the week as the other 1 liter pot just didn’t hold water long enough. Add slow release palates, crushed bone meal and a bit of mycorrhizae.

Week 8 Flower Flush flush flush 💦🚽💦🚽💦 It's extremely important to flush for at least 14 days when using synthetic nutes, or any bottled nutes in my opinion. The aim is to make her cannibalize (fade) as much as possible before she's chopped. By doing this, she's using up her stored nutrients, causing the leaves to eventually die. The better the flush the cleaner the smoke 👌💨 even when in an organic set up, the plant needs to be nicely faded before being harvested. Otherwise she's still full of nutrients. I still feel I'll be able to get an even better flush when I eventually make the switch to RO water, as my tap water holds a ppm value of approx 150. It's not too much, but 0 is always better. She was taken down on Day 57 flower, after a 16 Day flush. I didn't want to take her any further as she was quite stressed being so close to the light. So to avoid getting seeds I waited until she had a beautiful fade before giving her the chop ✂️ I always take my girls down about 30mins before the light turns on so there is minimal chlorophyll production in the plant. This is to ensure the best smell, taste and overall burn after drying and curing. A subtle but very sweet-ish tropical fruit skin kind of smell to her. Her buds are super dense and covered in trichomes. I trimmed off all fan leaves and then each branch was hung in my drying box and placed in a cool area. She was dry after 6 days and ready to be dry trimmed and jarred for curing. I'll post those pics with the harvest update! Thanks for following and happy growing! 🐺

Harvested Z1 (Zkittlez 1) at 95 days and Z2 (Zkittlez 2) at 90 days, At week 11 the trichomes were 90% milky with 50% orange pistils. They both received a minimum 2 full water flush, what I mean by that is a good 20% runoff to get all that built up out of the fabric pots. Note to self. 7 Gallon pots were unnecessary for these autos, 5 Gallons would be more than sufficient possibly even 3 Gallon. I believed the yield would be more considering how dense these buds are. I had forgotten Z2 had been massacred throughout this grow, unintentional topping as she was starting to flower and the carbon filter which fell on the plant damaging the top bud and other smaller bud sites. Taking these into consideration and after weighing Z1 I am very impressed by Fastbudz genetics especially under 13 weeks! I added a video of Z1 & Z2 dry weight to show transparency of my end results for this grow. I think better internodal spacing could allow for better bud development hence a better yield. Overall extremely pleased. Z1 = 97gr Z2= 61gr Density of Buds: 10/10 Resin: 9/10 Smell: 10/10 Dry Time and Cure for Smoke Report: 6 days (are now placed in Masson jars open lid for the next 2 days then 30 min x2/day) at Relative Humidity 60% // Temp: 72° F Smoke Report : High THC can be felt but not overpowering. Easily tell its heavier on the Indica side - will only know for sure once I try Zkittlez pheno 1. Curing will take some time. Generally I find 8 weeks minimum tends to give me a good quality product. I will be burping the mason jars twice a day for the next 2 weeks or so and add a 58% Bodeva pack. I prefer 58% vs 62% because I tend to use a Pax vaporizer. 00

Misses Blue is on a 12/12 schedule atm Gave her some extra blooming nutrients a couple of times this week. She stretched a little bit more, and seems to be packing on buds quite well

Smells like blueberry for sure ,dense colas.shorter than most of my other plants.hopefully the bud more than makes up for the plant

Hello. This is the end of week 8 and the beginning of week 9. I started flushing yesterday. With this heat around here they were fairly dry and took a lot of water but there was 5 gallons of run off water in the barrel when I was done flushing. A few days ago I picked all the dead and crumpled leaves off. there was a 1/2 bucket when I was done. Plant's #3 and # 1 are finished and could be cut down now but I will flush for 2 weeks more. Plants #2 and #4 will be finished soon. Plant #5 is the only plant that will be ready at 10 weeks. I took some Taster/Tester clippings yesterday. They will be able to tell me which clones I will want to keep and which can go. I'll talk about me for a bit. At the end of my Purple Paralysis diary I had a swollen tonsil removed and it was sent away to be tested. The test said it was cancerous and the tumor was right up to the edge of the cut so they (the cancer doctors) want to cut more of the area around where the tonsil was and give me radiation to kill the cancer virus. The thing is, I've had 3 tests done: a CAT scan. The one they inject you with radio active isotopes that stick to the cancer and the magnetic imaging test. All tests have showen No Cancer in the upper part of my body. I'm over 60 now and have read about this guy helping people with cancer and said to myself if I ever get cancer I'll try this Rick Simpson Protocol. So I'm on my 2nd batch of RSO. The doctors don't think the cannabis oil will work and still want me to have surgery and radiation but I'm holding my ground and have told them, you get the same rules as I give the dentist. If you can't show me on a test or x-ray what the problem or cavity is I'm not going to let you do anything. With faith and hope I'm putting my life into the cannabis oil treatment. The doctors will see me every 3 months and check my neck for lumps and put a camera down my nose and throat hoping to see something they can cut out and make some big medical bucks (You know the comic The doctor says to the nurse "This will pay for my kids braces") They will consider the cancer dead after 5 years. Wish me luck. Chuck.