Not much to comment

Real simple week for these girls. KNF with fish hydrolysate, Build a Soil Trio (Coco, Q, and Build a Bloom), humic acid, and cal-mag. The 5 gallon is looking good. I've grown bigger plants in this size pot but this looking like a real fast finisher, maybe 2 or 3 weeks more. It smells great too! Pine and citrus notes when I rub the sugar leaves. The 15 gallon is .... not that great. Im thinking of pull this one and planting another plant. It's unfortunate cause I wanted to see this strain at full potential in the 15 gallon but it never recovered from the gnat issue at transplant. Sucks cause it's the last Six Shooter I had but it just means I get to grow something different in the late summer sun. We'll see what happens next week. Also, I caught this spider coming in at night to munch on pest. Best IPM you could ask for (but I still sprayed some EM-5 lol). ✊🏾

Week 8 – Day 59 Flower Day 29 🔄 Looking back: Still watering with mixed osmosis/tap water, but the drain pH remains stubbornly low, between 5.6 and 5.8 📉 🔧 I’ve decided to go back to using BioBizz pH+, which helped me correct the drain pH effectively in my last grow. The Canna pH+ just doesn’t seem to work well in combination with Advanced Nutrients 🤔 🌿 Plant status – Mimosa Evo 📏 Height: 104 cm – stretch seems to be over, finally! 😅 💡 She’s under the same light setup as White Widow, currently running at ~950 PPFD ✅ No issues with light stress – she’s handling it very well ⚗️ Feeding at 100% of the Advanced Nutrients Masterline schedule, still no signs of deficiencies or burn 📌 Conclusion: All plants look great – including Mimosa Evo – despite the consistently low drain pH. → There’s no visible damage, but I’d still prefer to raise it slightly over time. BioBizz pH+ is on the way.

Dear Growers , Welcome to Week 7 or Flower week 4 // Day 49-56 from Sweet Seeds Orange Apricot Xl Auto. Incase of Moving to a New Home . I Decided to skip 3-4 Weeks from every Diarie of the 12x12 Automatic Project . Everything should be Normal in the next Weeks . Project Setup & Conditions: • Brand/Manufacturer: Sweet • Tent: 222cmx150cmx150cm • Light: 2x 720 Watt Full Spectrum • Humidity: 50% • Soil: Narcos Organix Mix • Nutrients: Narcos Products • pH Value: 6 If you want Germinitation results like mine , check out Kannabia Seeds with my link [https://www.kannabia.com/de?ref=61966] and grab the germination device or the strains I used . Trust me – it’s worth it for sure ! Get another 20% Discount at all products using the code [GGD] at the Checkout . Stay curious and keep up Growing —we look forward to welcoming you back for the next chapter soon!

Day 93 01/10/24 Tuesday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. Day 95 03/10/24 Thursday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. Day 96 04/10/24 Friday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only today. Picture and video update 😎 Day 98 06/10/24 Sunday (End of week) De-chlorinated tap water with Plagron PK13-14 to just help with nutrients.

Phew!!! Not going to lie I’m really glad the week is over. After chopping on Friday, the wet trim race was on. My girlfriend and I were stuck inside until 4am Monday morning getting Blueberry OG trimmed! Sooo grateful for her help though. It was long, but well worth it. Set up an AC Infinity 2x2 with a drying net and my AC unit kept the room at about 17c for most of the time. Friday (yesterday), after a week in the net, the smaller buds were feeling a little crispy so I knew it was time and after checking the other buds and doing some other finishing touches I threw them into some grove bags to cure. Now I can finally relax ☺️ Have a great day everyone! You mean so much to me, it’s great to have a community on here. Although I’m terrible at posting about my issues or openly asking questions, I’m glad I know where to come to when I need some inspiration. Thanks so much! Another harvest, I’m infinitely proud :)

Looking great, still pushing out pistils. Starting to chunk up a bit

Welcome to week 5 of flower for this lovely project! The ladies should start to put on some serious weight over the coming weeks as I've noticed most plants are done their stretch now (except macmelonz). We got lots of crazy smells coming from these plants some are harder to tell then others but some are extremely pleasing smelling already. Banana Smoothie is really putting off that banana cream smell accompanied by berries as an undertone. Creamy Cereal Crunch smells like Fruit loops and milk , its very unique and very pleasing if your into cereal anyways haha. Over all excited to see what this week will bring! Huge shout out to @MarsHydroLED for making such cool lights and tents that really make growing a breeze. Huge shout out to all my followers and people who stop into the diary alike , keep on inspiring to grow! -The Projexx Day#29F Ladies are starting to display some bulking up. Day#30F Pictures N/A. Plants seem to be stretching a bit more but concentrating on bulking up flowers. Some really nice smells coming out. Day#31F Macmelonz is still stretching along but stacking hard and the rest are starting to put on noticeable weight. Day#32F Ladies are grooving along nicely, going to look to trim up some of the middle allow for more air flow to the plants. Day#33F Banana Smoothie #1 and #4 are really starting to put out Banana Cream aromas its quite intense now. Day#34F The canopy deff needs a light defoliation. Going to defoliate slowly but surely over the coming weeks. Day#35F Pictures N/A. Ladies are really thirsty going to be upping the water next feed. Flowers are bulking like crazy! Recap: Things have gone really well this week, everyone's bulking like crazy and macmelonz who stretching out is still stacking like crazy. Lots of interesting and exciting aromas from the plants, I hope they taste as good as they smell! Over all very pleased with the performance of the plants its going to be exciting to watch them grow over the coming weeks!

Week 9 day 1 video pheno. Gonna chop this week Week 9 day 7 well chop this weekend so on week 10 Day 1-2. Just waiting on a light to reveg one. Everything is magic

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

;)

Just started this one off... Not much to say so far. This is a coco grow. I started off with an amended Coco using Gaia Green 4-4-4 and power bloom 2-8-4.

Flowering day #48

Dia 73 y esta Cream Cookies no deja de sorprenderme. Tiene colores hermosos, desprende un aroma dulce que se siente frutal mezclado con el de Zkittlez. He disfrutado mucho cultivando estas variedades y estoy muy conforme por la resistencia y adaptabilidad al entrenamiento. Ahora planeo iniciar el lavado de raíz cuando ya no quede ningún tricoma transparente, eso es todo por ahora.

On day 1 I adjusted the PH of the rez up to 6.2. I increased average ppfd to 972, with the highest ppfd on a top at 1500 ppfd lets see how she reacts and if she likes the intensity I will keep it steady till the end if not back to lower ppfd again. On day 6 I changed out the rez and ph to 6.2. Buds are growing and putting on weight very compact buds.

D8. We're at the start of the second week, and there isn't much to report. The girls are slowly getting taller and wider. The leaves of both plants show interveinal chlorosis, and the first one also has a tiny bit of a burn and twisted leaves. I suspect that is due to the girls growing right into the topdressing, and I'm hoping that it will correct itself as the girls get bigger with more substantial root systems. I prepared some foliar spray with fulvic acid and horticultural soap as a wetting agent for my other tent, so I also gave these girls a very light foliar spray. I might as well when I have extra :) ------------------------------ D9. The chlorosis is decreasing, but we have squatters in the tent! I've started germinating this year's chilis: Fidalgo Roxa, Jalapeño Early, Serrano, and Mushroom Yellow. I'll keep them in the tent as long as possible since it saves me some electricity. ------------------------------ D11. The second girl had a later and slower start, so she is lagging. Let's see if she catches up eventually. Soil is slowly losing moisture but still far from needing a watering. DLI set to 16. ------------------------------ D14. The end of the second week. By now, there's a clear size difference between the two girls, with the first being significantly larger. On the other hand, she also has twisted leaves, which the second girl doesn't have. One leaf is even a bit burnt. I tested the soil today, and it clocked in at a neutral pH of 7, so I doubt it is a pH issue. Instead, I suspect it is due to the topsoil being too "hot" with the top dressing I put on before the grow. In hindsight, it might have been better to wait with the top dressing until the plants had established themselves. Oh, well. We grow and learn. I still haven't given the girls any more water, so the fungus gnats get to enjoy life a while longer. Although, they haven't really become much of an issue. Still, the buggers have gotta go, and I'll water in SF nematodes to deal with them in a few days. I raised DLI to 20 yesterday. ------------------------------

Did some defoliation 3-4days earlyer 🤘🏾 looking good, no bugparty or any mold (yet)🤪 Waterd them with the good good n we out 🤘🏾