4/17 dropped seeds in distilled water for 12 hours 4/18 transferred to paper towel in plastic container on heat mat in darkness 4/19 tap root sprouts, transfer to rapid rooter in dome on heat mat with light 2 feet away, veg/blue light @ ~40% (~13,700 lux) slowly raising every several days 4/21 seeds sprouts Temp: ~70-76 Humidity: ~80-90%

I changed the fertilizer from organic to inorganic. It was seen that the plant was needed nitrogen, the plant was rather weak in growth, and the color of the leaves was yellow. When i had return to mineral fertilizers the plant immediately restored.

papaya cookies has now completed her stretch. typical for papaya, she develops purple/pink pistils. such a beauty. hopefully the weather will stay good enough for her bulk.

Buenas tardes familia, actualizamos semana de nuestras power plant xL, de estas 3 geneticas , aún siendo de las que mas problemas dio, es mi favorita, por tamaño , brazos largos laterales y su corta floración para ser predominantemente Sativa. La necesidad de tutorarlas se debió Más que nada por el peso de las flores, así la planta centra en seguir engordando. Es la última semana que les echamos productos,desde ahora solo agua controlando el PH igual. Pronto limpiamos raíces y provocamos estrés hídrico. En cuanto a la flor, se ven flores compactas con un olor muy dulzón y agradable.

Hear we Have a a Indica!!! Week 5,6 and 8 of flower

Older leaves on bottom and middle of the plant are starting to yellow now that they don’t receive as much light, the branches have created a nice canopy surrounding the plant. I cleaned up the middles and bottom of plant by removing leaves as they completely yellow day by day, and remove small suckers that appear at the base of the branches to keep the energy going towards the tops. Plants will get another round of Jobes organic granular feed to help the new branches fatten up and provide adequate bud sites for flowering period! 5 gallons will receive 1 cup while 15 gallons will receive 2 cups of granular feed, weather predicts rain the next few days which will help the plants getting their nutrients

This week whent ok a little bit slow but probably due to it being a photo period I've noticed there's a slight mutation on the leaf and it looks a little bit like a star which is quite interesting but other than that I've decided to stop feeding for a while and just use plane 6.5 pH water and may be a bit of silica and some master root because of high PPM in the soil. instead of doing a flush .because it is soil I want the plant to get some air too to the roots. I'm just going to let the plant eat it. it has showed no signs of being burnt. It's going to be in there for a while so we'll continue feed when PPM is lower. Thank you for looking and will be an update every week

may 11: start of week 7

So this plant is phenomenal with her recovery abilities. At this point, she recovered from her previous topping only 7 days ago, and grown the final 2 inches I was waiting for. As of 4/26, she is now on 12/12. Additional nutrients will be added to her for her flower period. Time-lapse again had an error, this time, I swear, it was not me. Looks like the camera and server stopped communicating until both were restarted. So as a reference, this plant is now 10 weeks from seed. She has been topped 3 times for a total of 8 crowns. I expect harvest to be approximately 10 weeks from now. But we all know how far expectations can take us.

This grow is looking phenomenal. Can’t wait to wash for rosin! Freezing as of now update: test run of bubble this shit is fucing crazy gas. So pungent and full of flavor. Tried some wet Melt in the Puffco it hits like crazy. Great effects and gas flavor. Will be pressing asap update did a 2nd wash tonight of all the trim from plant 3. I’d say 600 wet grams. Yielded great and awesome color. update: pressed 10 gram puck of rosin to test run. See results above. She’s a squirter!

This plant is my 3th attempt, trying to find a specific taste I'm searching since I started to grow, in 2020. Plant just been harvested. Now it gonna need some more weeks of drying and curing, before I can finally evaluate the taste 😍 So, for now, I can only talk about the grow, and I'll edit my diary later. 10 weeks of flowering (total 20 weeks), this was a long run! Royal Queen Seeds say that strain usually take 7 to 9 weeks of flowering. Mine took a bit longer. She was absolutely the easiest plant I ever grown. She never shown big sign of deficiencies. She germinated fast (seed direct to the pot). I applied main-lining method (Nebula's / Topping at node 3, then node 3 again) and performed LST during the growth. She perfectly dealt with it, never slowed by the toppings. I remember that she took less than 10 hours to recover from second topping, and re-allign every branchs to the light, after LST. This was insane to me. I did some mistakes during the grow : 1) Excess of Biobizz - Fishmix during grow, until early flowering. This been fixed by following the advices from @AsNoriu who suggested to transplant the Queen to a new pot. So she moved from a 16L to a 30L during 2nd week of flowering. This was risky, it's not really recommended to transplant during flowering.... But the risk at to be taken. And she totally did good. One week later, she was looking way more healthy. 2 weeks later, she was on fire!!! 2) I brook the main cola, same week than the transplant. I was trying to apply the LST again. A bit too much of tension, and Crack! Quickly fixed. The plant don't even realized. She don't slowed bad signs, and continued to grow perfectly. She spent some weeks outdoor during Veg. And this is how i got some thrips problem during end of veg. I sprayed black soap, then water, and then Biobizz - Leafcoat. This got rid of mainly all thrips. I was still seeing one or two begining of flowering, so I continued to use water and biobizz - Leafcoat. But as she was flowering, she started to get totally covered of trichomes, even on fan leaves, and under the leaves. Thrips had no chance there. So the plant ended this problem by herself, and I don't had to spray anything during flowering, and never saw thrips again ^^

Hi all. Plants start to flower, I can smell that, very well :) all looks pretty nice, without burns, I hope they will grow big.

Hey guys, Like I said last week, this week was another cold rainy week. Discoverd some budrot on my Shamans, but not mayor problems. Therefore I decided to Harvest my Shamans at the end of this week. Knowing that in the upcomming weeks it will get even more colder, more rain and more bud rot. Luckly I only gave them water and one time with Humic-Blast and enzym+. Thats not a proper flush but better then full nutrients in the soil/plant. If it wasn't for the colder climate, i would had let them flower for another 1 to 2 weeks because they really started to thicken and the flowers were swelling. But at the end i rather have smokable buds then budrot buds,,, Weather for the upcomming week is 70% to 92% rain with 11-14 degrees Celcius and at night even 7-9 celcius. So there is no point by risking all of my buds to rot, in hope for some swelling which may never come with this colds The Critical Kushes where in their 4th week of flowering, going into the 5th. I have no other choice to keep them at least for another 2-4 weeks, lets see how it goes. I don't mind spending nutrients on maybe a lost cost. Somehow GD minimalize the videos after putting 10pictures on the diary, Just click on the next picture and click on the right arrow to go to the videos. See yall next week :)

very strong smell this one and very big leafs drink 7 liters a week

Still not given any food at 35 days since popping. She's growing well and I've put her in a 4ltr pot. I've pinched the top out to slow down the vertical growth.

This is the full detailed pictures of my first grow.

Day 37 from seed. 2nd day into week 6. -My focus for this week is to keep room temperatures under 75 degrees since I notice that my roots don’t like high nutrients temp. And since I m in DWC single 5 gallons bucket I don’t have the possibility to chill the water. So I have to keep the room temp lower then I wish to. - Day 41- I have to add nutrients and PH down every 12 hours. My PPM’s goes from 450 to 390 and my PH drift from 5.7 to 6.2 in less then 12 hours. Also I notice some rust on older levels (probably Ca/Mg deficiency). After some research (I’m new to this) I decided to up the nutrients to 600 PPM’s. Hopefully is a good decision. I will really appreciate some feedback.

Into week three of flowering: - Need to up CalMg this week cause all my last grows with this strain the plants were stressing and showing signs of Mg deficiency I think. - The buds are stacking up pretty tight. - The top of the plant is showing some red veins AGAIN, don't know if it is genetics? Or is it too much light? ANY SUGGESTIONS? - Usually what happens is that after week three top of plant will show red veins and some leaves will turn light green yellow. What type of deficiency is this? Thanks in advance for the help. Happy growing, BM 4TwenTee *****Update on LIGHT STRESS:***** Okay I think I got this figured out. Since my plant is showing the following symptoms: - Slow yellowing of top of cannopy - Fan leaves pointing up in a steep angle - Leaves are tacoing up a bit with sharp pointy serrated leaves pointing up - Veins are turning purple and some leaves are showing green veins and yellowing of outer part of the leaf REASONS FOR THE SYMPTOMS: - Since the light is too close to the top of the canopy, although my light is running at around 60% and it is at least a meter away from the light. I think because this was a mother and basically she is accustomed to top canopy PAR of around 180-220 and she was measuring around 600PAR so that is just too much for the plant to handle. So I've lowered the light output so the top canopy is around 420 PAR. - Also my humidity is pretty high at around 72% so I lowered it to around 65% - The reason why the leaves are tacoing up to the light is because the canopy cannot take the high PAR, the temp at the top of the canopy is only 76F so that is acceptable, but the plant is trying the sweat due to the high PAR, but because the humidity was also too high it was not sweating as much as it should. - The reason why a light stressed plant shows different deficiencies eg. magnesium and phosphate is due to the "extra sweating" that takes place, cannabis plants don't choose what they intake, if they need more water to sweat, extra nutrients will be absorbed and this will lockout some of the other nutrients in the solution. **End of week update: Tried multiple changes but still no luck on getting rid of red leaf stem. - Added a 1 hour sunrise and sundown light regiment - Decreased Humidity to 65% from low 70's - Top of canopy PAR decreased from 600 to 350. Leaves red stems still not going away and top of canopy still trying to get rid of moisture with fan leaves pointing up. If anyone can chime in that would be great thanks.