This is the whole flowering cyclus posted in one week.

Hi guys, What's up? Welcome back to Queen Peaky's Flower Gardens We meet together again to wrap up another diary on these magnificent autoflowers We started working on the roots by rinsing them with only pH balanced water and a few little girls and Ready to be dried, preparing it for a perpetually dry trimming

She growing well, so well in fact I have started to HST the off shoot branches to keep the grow low. They are nice and green still so easy to HST and take to it well. It's getting ready to flip but waiting on my new tent...so she will just have to keep growing taking over my veg cabinet

Week 5 day 1. I have a favourite for next run. I’m very happy, I haven’t really defoliated at all this grow, just letting it grow. Wish I was going for mains(topping) but still very good. Going to wait around week 9 so seeds will be good for next run. I have decided to do very hard hst next round to show max potential. Very happy with supercropping so will do it very heavy with scrog. I will try to reveg the one I really like but it is difficult having only 1 set of lights and 1 tent. Plants are about 7ft tall, might just run 2 next round in 4x8 or will still continue to go 4 in the 4x8.

Lots of smells have become their own... The fried banana has this crazy skunk smell with a real earth dirt smell once the skunk fades... The orange cake NO kidding, smells like a fresh peeled orange and some kind of batter smell... It's nuts... The big Z has the immediate Skittles blast with a earthy afternote... And the paint is just like the last one and smells real chemical like! When u say the name it makes u smell the paint... Is that just me???? Hahaha anyways... Thats what I got .. everything is going amazing and for day 37 I think they've filled out real nice... Now hopefully they fatten up in the next 20-30 days!!!!

Autos have been transferred, looking good so far..

Day 22- Second defoliation into flower.

Turned off IR @ nights Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is far superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison to synthetic delivery, which causes plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing, regenerative cultivation. ATP is king above all else when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" (active) nutrient uptake. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. If that makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic methods because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversions. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. Corporate interest sells you the other 3-5% NPK & all the rest in RATIOS! Why not throw the 3-5% in a pot, and focus your energy on the other 95-97%? Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.

Nothing really Changed. Did a topping today. She's A little taller. Love to See her growing ❤️

Désolé mais pendant plusieurs jour je n arrivé plus à charger mon journal ? Bref dernière arrosage avec nutriments ;) on y arrive tous doucement . Autrement j ai eu un petit départ de bud rot sur la melon gum (rien de méchant 2 calices coincé entre 3 immense têtes ;) j ai donc enlever les 2 têtes et désinfecté aux mieux (les 2 têtes n avez rien j ai donc pu les goûter hier soir et j doit dire l effet est vraiment sympa ;)

6/14 Week 8 and things are going fairly well on the grow. Some issues with PH that I hope have been worked out by recaling all of them and using two to test PH. Bud building continues Basic nuets only till flush 6/15 Another day in the life... 6/16 Gave a shot of PK she is building so fast she just runs out of Phos and then CA cant do its work 6/17 Continuing PK one more day at least 2ml/gal and 1ml/gal Cal-Mag We have an explanation for the CA issues. This was bag coco not block, it came prewashed and buffered. Apparently the buffering was sub par and has degraded thus drawing CA from the plant and feed. Thus adding 1ml/gal Cal-Mag to compensate Once again DYOPW Do Your Own Prep Work 6/19 She is building buds faster than any plant we have grown to date. Going to split the cal-mag and pk feedings, morning PK evening cal-mag may just be a best practices thing and the time for both is very short Someone asked me a question on PK/cal-Mag and I didnt know they can conflict depending on the formulas involved. So safe is the word She is finishing up to flush stage anyway fewer new hairs so the ambering will increase wont be long now, within a few days.

:)

Alaskan Purple Auto is growing great under the Medic Grow Mini Sun-2. She has some big sativa colas going. She is just about done with bulking. She has a flowery earthy smell to her at the moment. I have had minor issues along the way, but overall she has been killing it. Thank you Seedsman, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻💪🏻❄️🌱 https://www.seedsman.com/?a_aid=Mrsour420. This is my affiliate link to seedsman. Thank you Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

This plant now only gets overdrive, i didnt flush her so theres still enough nitrogen, it will deplete slowly she will be ready in about 2 weeks

Hello:) The plants are progressing nicely. The wasabi is almost ready but the sangrias need at least one more week. Let‘s hope the wasabi won‘t be too much overripe by then:) Sadly the red/purple buds don‘t seem to spread more to the top buds, I suspect that the temperature difference between day and night is not enough, let‘s see if they get more color this week. I plan to harvest between the 18.11-22.11 if the sangrias are ready, the wasabi will have to hang in there:) Also, here is the video so far:) next time i‘ll try to make a fix spot for the camera

First time trying this strain and seed company. I have an Altoids box that i lined with sand paper (120 git) i shake my seed(s) for about 30 seconds to a minute in the box. I then soak them in water for about 15-18 hours. When done soaking i put the seeds on a plate with paper towels until i get a tap root that is atleast 1/8" prefer 1/4". Then at that point i put them in a Jiffy Pod until about 1.5 - 2.0 inches.

First week