Tag 74: Die letzte Stufe beim Dünger gezündet 😁 Tag 80: Die Runst hat seit ein paar Tagen eine rötliche Färbung an den Blattspitzen.

Hi everyone :-) This week a lot of nice things happened in the flower tent :-) Everyone looks super nice, and is growing stronger and more beautiful week by week 😍👌. The blue cheese smells like a dream ;-) As usual from this variety 👍. The kosher tangie is also very, very tasty 👏🏻. Both got Pk 13/14 this week for the last time :-) Everyone else is developing very well 👍, That will be the last diary with several strains together :-) In future everyone will come individually 👌. I wish you a lot of fun with the videos, have a nice weekend, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 😎👌

12/03/19 So there hasn't been a lot going on in terms of healthy growth. It seems I've been giving nutrients too often and that the pH of my water is too high (7.8) resulting in a Calcium defficiency and stunted/abnormal growth. Following some great advice from Bulbi to one of my questions. I've bought some Cal-mag and pH down to try and mitigate this issue, I've done the following :- : 1ml Cal-Mag to 1l of Water per plant : 2ml Cal-Mag to 1l of spray bottle to be used infrequently : I haven't pH reduced on this watering as I noticed the Cal-Mag slightly reduces the pH, so to not shock the plants I'll lower the pH marginally on the next 2 feeds untill it's at 6.5 : Raised the light to 45cm : Changed the lighting schedule to 18/6 Let's hope these few changes will bring these lil babys back to life! I'll post some mid-week pictures to show any difference.

Day 44 - 15.12 - The flowering is begening but she's a bit shy like if she wanted to take her time. She received a tea spoon of Mr.B's Bloom to give her more energy for that flowering phase. The vertical growth looks stoped compared to the past weeks/days She's not getting much taller so this is time to produce buds ✌️🏼😁 A bit of rain did water the pot like you can see on the video. ------- Day 45 - I don't remember if I told you about my Gsc clones I did take about 10 days ago , maybe less. So they are now rooted and I transplanted them in 3L pots with a good amount of Mr.B 's Growth ( 2 teaspoon and a half each) in attempt to make the grow big the faster I can due to the fact they are autos they will tend to induce flowering quickly. ------- Day 46 - Xmas is coming so she needed a fresh style 🌲

Had some slow flower growth due to under fertilizing and overall not building my soil well enough for such monster plants. Learned alot from my second grow so far! After fixing Feeding problems they are fattening really fast! Think i have around 3-4 weeks left at least. Hope they make it.

White Widow looks realy good. I expect that I can harvest her in august. Northern Lights looks good too, but seems to be flowering much slower then White Widow. Blueberry Ghost OG (it is HUGE already) and Kali AK still won't start flowering and I don't know why.

dawgstar is doing awesome stretched out nice and focusing on flower production gave her a little strip and tucked some branches she's drinking like a horse 3l daily will start using bud candy next week at 0.5g perl very happy with her so far thanks for reading happy growing guys

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Sorry for the lack of update smartphone fell into the water a new one is coming on monday , you'll all see the amazing view i have in the garden today :)

June 26 Getting bigger and bigger! Makes me wonder if I should flip her to flower here soon to control the size since she's not an autoflower which is usually smaller, genetically. She hasn't used up all of the nutrients in the bucket yet either. June 27 Plant was a bit droopy, so a half gallon of PH'd water did the trick. June 30 Some lower leaves are getting yellow and dying. I'm taking that as a sign that the soil is almost out of nutrients. Mixed up a 1/8th strength of General Organics GO Box nutrients (week 1 to avoid nute burn), but upped the CalMag to 1/4 strength. Fed one gallon at a PH of 6.7 to slight runoff.

One Plant did foxtails but its structures were really resistant. The other plants were resinous and made a pretty good yield. The buds are very consistent with both potency and flavour

Defoliation was done this week, open up the canopy for better light and wind flow. Sugar leaves are starting to change to a red color. Trichomes look long and abundant. Beautiful plant to grow.

It’s done a lot of bulking up this week starting to look healthy and strong bad weather due tho

I had to take a big decision. I know it is not good it is way too hot in the tent but needed to remove from my garden because of some reasons. Firstly, illegal which is fine but I do not want to take a risk for 3 g of harvest. She should start flowering in autumn when less sun and weather is basically shitty here in London it is okay to grow but when starts flowering.... so I planted an auto and saw that it wont yiled good so I was thinking what will happend to my Zkittlez in autumn when mush less sun and weather is going down. So realised I can have a 2-3 m plant but it ain't gonna flower just a bit. Soni decided to put under artificial light but it is summer my plants are suffering in the tent. Inhave no choice I will try to manage maximum I will cut back. Hopefully all goes ok. Day 86: Fucked up she was totally wilt I removed all the leaves basically the stalk left only..... she will be okay

Until now I lowered my Ph with the PH- from BIoBizz. It was working fine but this week I tried Plagron PH- and it works better, I need to add 2x less ph- solution to lower the ph of the same volume of water. I recommend it 😘 My instagram😉: https://instagram.com/hou_stone420?utm_source=qr&igshid=NGExMmI2YTkyZg%3D%3D

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ ❤️💡🌱😽💨 It's been a pretty good week, buds are stacking up super fast and i really like the spacing on 2 especially (one is a little too tight).. We were getting some yellowing on the tops so we dimmed the light to 60% (from 75%).. a light meter would go a long way here lol.. no new calcium def spots though so i think we're finally good there.. we recently bought a 5x5 tent to replace this 4x4 and hope to have it up by next week! Thanks for dropping by guys and happy harvests! ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_

Now this girl i am so happy to be chopping. This is her final update before she comes down after dark period. The plant itself has been fantastic. She had great growth from the begining but just far to much for the space i had for her. Shes not a very pungent strain but does have a mellow sweetness coming from her. If she is as nice as my last dance with Sweettooth i will be over the moon.

J36 arrosage avec engrais (1,5 litre/plante) J38 arrosage eau (1,5 litre/plante) légère defoliation. J40 arrosage avec engrais (1,5 litre/plante) J42 arrosage eau (1,5 litre/plante)

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).