It’s bern roughly two months these guys have been growing! Lst’d Both but untied the gg because I wasn’t sure she was benefiting from it so I’m going to do it over. These ladies (I hope) will start their flower journey next week when I revive my new flower tent 😎..stay tuned for some epic buds..I hope!!

It's been another easy week in the Fastbuds tent. I've spent most my energy preparing my outdoor grow space for a wild summer. At this point, there's not much I can do except water and watch my plants grow. I've added videos of other plants in relations to the mimosa cake just for visual aid. I also added a photo of my cheese auto.. it's still drying! With the Mimosa cake auto I've been taking fan leaves off slowly for weeks now. This is a very busy plant. She is also going to run later than I expected. She's on day 76 and I suspect 95 to 100 days to finish time. I'll have to keel feeding her bloom nutes for the next few weeks; her 3 gallon bucket ran out of nutrients already. Feeding schedule: water, feed, water, feed Step 1- I'll take an aeration stone and use it to remove the chlorine residual in the water... this only takes 8 - 12 hours depending on water temperature. (I'm a water treatment process operator, I have checked several times in the past with my own Cl2 meters). Step 2 - add Calmag Step 3- add bloom nutes Final step - pH the water accordingly (very important that this is final step) A TDS residual of 500 ppm equals roughly 1 E.C. (I just double it)

Update week 1 day 4 of bloom , this week we put the net to make the technique that calls scrog we see next week what is the resul

This week I decided to remove the LST and let her strech out as much as she wants. I lollipopped her on day 49 and cutted down all the branches that will never grow to the light. She has to strech as much as possible because there are some way taller plants under the same light. I hope she gonna produce some nice flower and will continue to strach abit. Thanks Fastbuds for the Amazing Strain !

Another beautiful week with my partner in crime. Babes are coming along beautifully. Got 4 Sonoma’s goin few weeks old, and got 3 mephisto auto’s doin their germ thang. More of course to follow. Hope y’all like my pics.

day 22: Feeding time again, ran veg schedule and a little calmag and root juice. 750ml day 23: raised the light and upped the ppfd a little. day 25: feed week one flowering nutes. 750ml day 27: feed week one flowering nutes plus calmag. 750ml looks like we are going into flowering now.

Alright growmies 🍁🕺 week 6 of veg - girls are starting to get there Colour back into them now 🙌🏻2 girls have a bit off a potassium def but same strain so could be a sign(worst part about running multiple strains) that will clear up with the next few days. Little update on this weeks progress. Start cloning next, and repot will be on cards 👏🏻 light work 💪🏻

Hi everyone and welcome to week 1 of this outdoor organic Fast Buds competition 🌱 Not much to report just yet, but the seedlings are off to a good start. They’ve now been placed straight into their final 14 litre pots and are currently in the nursery greenhouse. The sun is shining and the journey has officially begun 😎 So why go straight into the final pots? Autoflowering cannabis plants don’t respond well to transplanting, mainly because of their biology and fixed life cycle. Autos come from Cannabis ruderalis, which means they start flowering automatically after just a few weeks of growth, regardless of light cycles. Because of that, their vegetative stage is very short, usually around 2 to 4 weeks. Any stress during this early stage, like transplant shock, can slow them down and affect the final size and yield. Unlike photoperiod plants, they don’t have time to recover. They keep moving forward no matter what, so early setbacks stick with them. Root development is also key at this stage, and transplanting can disturb or limit that, which impacts the plant’s overall potential. You can transplant autos if it’s done very early and carefully, but it adds risk for very little benefit, especially with such a short cycle. Hope you all had a great weekend ! Happy gardening 😎💚

Hi everyone 😁 I would like to thank you all fellow growers and breeders for such a great support on this journey. Thank you Grow Diaries and Green House Seeds. Without you all this wouldn't be possible. Love you all First ever recorded diary so don't know where to even start 😅 I am returning to growing after many many years of break. This is my first ever experience with autoflowers, scrog, lst, led and such tiny grow space. Choice of strain - Big Bang Auto from Green House Seeds. I have run so many strains from this seed bank in the past and I was always happy with the final outcome. Was looking for indica dominant strain, fast flowering cycle and very important heavy yields on small spaces. Again thank you GHSC in very happy of choosing this strain. Little bit about my cabinet. External dimensions: 64 x 50 x 114 cm (W x D x H) Growing area: 55 x 47 cm cm (0.26 m2) Panel based on SAMSUNG LM301B diodes Spectrum: Samsung LM301B – 5000 x72 Samsung LM301B – 3000k x136 Samsung LM301B – 660nm x9 Samsung LM301B – IR 760nm x1 Regulation in the range of 20W - 110W - Meanwell XLG 100-H-AB PPF 300 umol/s PPFD 890 mol/m2/s @30c Total of 6 adjustable fans, 4 exhaust fans 4 modes - silent/drying, vegetation, flowering, full power Active carbon mass in the filter 2kg Absolutely love my grow cabinet. Thinking of next build already. My grow 3 beautiful ladies - Nuna, Luna and Sweet Mary Jane. This was a pleasure experience growing autos for the first time. All 3 ladies on the end developed perfectly. Nuna, left corner lady- tall and beautiful. She had some problems to switch to flowering and was even considering removing her but very happy that I was patient enough and turned great. Luna, right corner lady - have to say she is the queen. She has the most heavy buds from all, the most. colorful. Her wet weight was 420g, can't say how much of dry but guessing approx. 100g Sweet Mary Jane, front seat lady. I think she was the most pleasant to grow of her location but due to no other spare space for drying I belive that I have harvested her at least a week to early. If keep longer I belive she could be the most yielder from all 3. Thank you all for all the support, help, comments, likes, messeges. Love you all 💚💚💚 Will update this diary in some time and when puff perfectly cured 😎 Peace and love ✌️💚

9.Vegetationswoche, nun 50 cm hoch und 85 cm breit. Bis 15.3.hoffe ich auf 60 cm Höhe und dann wird auf 12/12 umgestellt. Musste nun schon das 5.Mal entlauben, das wächst wie Unkraut. Seit 3 Tagen benutze ich den WaterTrim, Osmose Wasser.

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Really nice plant. Very strong smell, Well THC coated buds and very nice effects. Lovely.

Its been 17days since planting all the seedlings and they are happy except 2 which took a beating yesterday when the humidifer ran out of water but 1 has recovered overnight im sure the other will be fine soon 🙏

it's amazing, this growth looks much better than my first attempt, my decision was to put a smaller pot and change the light - the girl really liked it, FastBuds goriilla cookies with a small space manage perfectly:).

Little defoliation at day 20 Tied down branches at day 20 Growing very Easy Just fed her with top veg and roots from TOP CROP

Sie reift wirklich recht langsam. Vor allem die unteren Buds brauchen noch ein bisschen mehr Zeit. Das Wetter ist sehr wechselhaft aber zum Glück ist kein Schimmel in Sicht.

It’s finally getting a nice green colour This week I changed the scrog net , it’s about 7” above the top of the pots . upped the nutes to 1.8-2 ec. Sprayed with canna cure Watering every morning to about 10% run off Lollipoped an defoliated ,Waiting to fill the net a bit more but will be switching to 12/12 very soon.

Hey now! This week went pretty well, I did notice my EC of my runoff was getting pretty high on day 65, it got up to about 1.9, and my nutrient solution going in was at 1.6. I ended up mixing a bucket of my normal fertilizer, and hand watering all the places my drip ring wasn't really hitting, and i got the EC back down to about 1.7. I also got a tip from MrJones to setup some type of support for the colas. I ended up tying some 550 (parachute) cord across the top of my tent poles, then I ties little loops around the colas with the same soft cord. I then used wire ties to attach the loops to the 550 cord. I also am slowly reducing my EC, as I believe I only have a couple weeks left. I am also going to be switching from Liquid KoolBloom to Dry KoolBloom at some point later in week 10. If anyone has any experience on the correct timing of this switch to ripening formula, please hit me up! I am still struggling a bit with heat and humidity, and am considering buying another dehumidifier for my next grow. As always, Thank you to everyone for all of your encouragement, support and tips!! Blaze on!

Chopped one already. These 5 are finishing.