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Buenas a tod@s! Terminamos la quinta semana de floración de estás lemon cookie kush. La variedad es bastante fuerte, firme, está linda, a mí me gusta se q hay algunos "fallos" x lo q veo, x lo q leí... Pero se que hubo unos fallos de novato desde el principio, que para el próximo no pasarán, de a poco voy a ir mejorando en mis cultivos y sacar buenas y hermosas flores... Y nada, van bien... Vean las fotos... Buen finde para tod@s... Buenos humos.. 💨💨🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦😎
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@nonick123
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Día 50 (09/12) Busy time Solo riego! Día 51 (10/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 no para de crecer! ¿Parará el stretch? 💥 OG Kush Auto avanzan las manchas en las hojas... ¿Será deficiencia o carencia? Día 52 (11/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 está demandado más agua. Subo a 1500 ml / día de H2O RO CBD Auto #2 está ralentizando el consumo de agua (el top se muestra húmedo). ¿Estará entrando en la fase final de floración?. Según FastBuds le quedan 11 a 18 días! OG Kush Auto también demanda más agua! Subo a 1250 ml / día de H2O RO Día 53 (12/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 es increíble como no para de estirarse y de formar nudos y hojas! Parece una Sativa pura que nunca para de crecer en floración! CBD Auto #2 empieza a mostrar algunas hojas con senescencia. Se acerca la cosecha! LSD-25 Auto está haciendo unos cogollos densos y duros como rocas 😍💥 No está tampoco lejos de la cosecha! 💥💨😁 OG Kush Auto produciendo una resina brutal en las hojas de azúcar! 😍 Día 54 (13/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 no para el stretch. Le hago una poda de bajos y ligera defoliación OG Kush Auto está generando una cantidad de tricomas increíble. Además huele a Kush deliciosamente 😍😍😍 Día 55 (14/12) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 para un poco el consumo de agua en ¿Fin del stretch? Casi toca la lámpara de nuevo! CBD Auto 20:1 #2 empieza a mostrar la senescencia. Reviso los tricomas con muchos turbios y alguno transparente. ¿Estará en una semana más aproximadamente? 🤔 Día 56 (15/12) OG Kush Auto ha bajado un poco el consumo de agua La cantidad de tricomas que está haciendo es insana e increíble. Y como huele! 😍 LSD-25 Auto muestra los tricomas trasparentes y algunos turbios. ¿Quizás dos semanas para la cosecha? 💦Nutrients by Bio Tabs - www.biotabs.nl/en/ 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-hp-biofungicide-plus-mycorrhizae "GDBT420" 15% DISCOUNT code for the BIOTABS Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553
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@HickNella
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Beginning my flush this week. Starting to see amber trichomes here and there
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Shes doing super well and seems to only want water. 4 weeks left on this girl.
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March 14 2026 Mephisto's Wedding X Grape Walker Kush are responding well to the increased humidity and airflow with some explosive early vegetive growth. #1 has leaf mutation at node 2. Today they were provided around 500mL of total input (250mL EWC slurry @ 1tbsp / cup, 250mL plain dechlorinated tap water @ pH 6.0). 175-210 Ppfd with Photone app on iPhone 16pro.
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@Frosth
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She is getting long but upper node still didnt get high. Tried open lower leaves to get light better. Waitinf for lst. Any suggestions ? Last 10 days for continue under real sun at my balconary.
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🇩🇪RS11B – Update 🍃 Die RS11B entwickelt sich aktuell solide und hat sich gut vom Stress durch Training und Umzug ins 1x1 erholt. Heute gab’s pH-reguliertes Wasser + CalMag, erstmal bewusst ohne zusätzlichen Dünger. Das Training wurde weitergeführt, Triebe neu runtergebunden und die Fläche gleichmäßiger verteilt. Die neuen Tops kommen sauber nach oben und die Struktur passt. Im Vergleich zur C-Variante (trotz knapp einer Woche Unterschied) bleibt die B deutlich kompakter, während die C größer wächst – allerdings ohne dass die B im Wachstum eingeschränkt wirkt. Zwei klar unterschiedliche Wuchsformen. Bin gespannt, wie sie sich Richtung Blüte entwickelt. 🇬🇧RS11B – Update 🍃 RS11B is developing nicely and has recovered well from the recent stress (training + move into the 1x1 tent). Today she got pH-adjusted water + CalMag, no additional nutrients this time. Training was continued, branches tied down again to improve canopy distribution. New tops are coming up evenly and the structure is looking clean. Compared to the C-variant (despite about a one-week difference), the B stays noticeably more compact, while the C grows bigger — without the B showing any signs of reduced growth. Two clearly different growth patterns. Curious to see how she performs heading into flower.
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No complaints, plant seemed a bit stunted by defoliation. Not a lot of growth. But healthy.
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@LowzGrowz
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Was Easy Going No Issue Smaller side but didnt do much just let her go little over water @ Times from all the Rain was having... but she handled it
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@RBG
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Week 8 Flower week 2 Flower day 5 26/10/2025 Finally feeling good again! Kept the same nutrient mix almost the same, have had to use some others just to get by until more rock up 🙃 Floramax Veg 1: 1000ml Floramax Rezin: 400ml Floramax Organabud: 400ml Floramax Flowering Enhancer: 400ml Cyclo Platinum Silica: 200ml ISN Cal-Mag: 400ml (still waiting on my main one to be delivered, so using what’s left of this) Green Planet Massive Bloom: 200ml Green Planet Bud Booster: 4 scoops (30ml each) Sleeps with the Fishez: 100ml — used some hydrogen peroxide today while waiting for the next batch to arrive next week I’ve been looking into a flushing additive called New Millennium Winter Frost for a nice clean finish. Pistils finally popped up yesterday on a few of the top sites! Should start seeing some solid stretch from Miss Cherry Bellini soon, guessing around 30 to 40cm at least. I’m letting her do her thing and reach up into the net for now. If she starts getting crowded before the end of week 3, I’ll kick off some early defoliation. Also got two AC Infinity IonBeam S11 lights set up sitting about level with the top colas. I’m aiming the light to hit the middle and lower sections instead of blasting the tops directly, trying to get that nice even coverage. Still debating whether I even need to scrog this run, but a few people keep telling me to give it a go to see the difference, I guess only one way to tell 🙌
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DLI auf 40 eingestellt. Langsam fangen die kleinen richtig an zu stinken. Denke noch 3-4 wochen dann sind sie fertig.
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MAY 20TH - TODAY is the first day the plants wake up from their 18/6 cycle down from 2 weeks at 20/4. They got their first SCHWAZZE and shaping at this stage getting them ready to grow into the beautiful sea of green each of these beds are to become. The uniformity of the clones reminds me how much of this has become muscle memory to me, From doing thousands of plants per grow this has become second nature for me. The ladies are 100% organic at this point and our feed I am considering releasing it for anybody who is interested as a way to fund raise at the same time ! If anybody is interested in the recipe let me know in the comments, If we get enough interest I will put up a site that will constantly update with each weekly feed & steps done on the plants. ANNOUNCEMENT : ** It has taken me 20 re trys & double the amount of ERROR codes to get this update LIVE. I will be staying on this website until the end of this grow year, Then I will be setting up a Patreon & migrating over to Patreon and Twitter ( X ) I am completely done with GROW DIARIES.** SUPPORT OUR SPONSORS !!! PROMO CODE GREEN PLANET : LEGACY PROMO CODE MARS HYDRO : LEGACY PROMO CODE SEEDSMAN : LEGACY10 MAY 22ND 2024 - SCHWAZZE COMPLETED YESTERDAY. These photos where taken DIRECTLY after their SCHWAZZE. NOW 2-3 WEEKS of 18/6 then another SCHWAZZE, Top DRESSING of Mineralized Phosphate, Power Bloom and Glacial Rock Dust and swap to 14/10. We will be using 14/10 for 3 weeks then going to 12/12 to flower these beauties out. MAKE SURE TO FOLLOW OUR SOCIALS & JOIN OUR GREAT COMMUNITIES ! TWITTER : https://x.com/LegacyMrketFarm YOUTUBE : www.youtube.com/channel/UCR89iF2Iqy3zlHZhFfU2MMg YOUTUBE GAMING : www.youtube.com/channel/UCw8-qCFg-PUf00waTO5JOGw
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Week 1 flower Keeping them on veg nutes till stretch is done so about 3 weeks Slowly lowering the light every day I will keeping tucking them under the net to fill the net and keep a even canopy . I will do this for 2 weeks , then lollipop and defoliate
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@ryu420
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Smell deep sweet and something so aroma
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Runoff ph is a bit high this time. Don’t know why. Around 6.8. Average ph going in is 6.0. Also the big fan leaves on ice cream cakes are kind of strange shaped. Will see how they are going to look later.
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Day 78 Update: Start of week 12! Watered plant with almost a gallon of pH balanced water until runoff. 4 days left of flushing on Plant #2. Going to play it day by day till harvest, depending on how this week's plans unfold. Day 82 Update: Harvesting Plant #2 today. I will update the harvest part of the diary once I place these buds in jars. See you in a few days!