Day 50: Water intake is 150ml per plant, light schedule 18/6. Humidity is approx 50%. Fertilization continues the same way Monday, Wednesday, Friday Biobizz family, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday bat guano and Epsom salt. Flowers are developing nicely and getting thicker. Plants love the new 600W Viperspectra:) All good so far! They are all approx 30-35 cm. Day 53: Smell is getting stronger, really nice mix one. Day 55: Nice smell comes out from this tent. Plants are nice buds are getting dense and the smell is getting stronger and stronger. All of them do well, some more some with less bud development but they all look happy.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de floración de estas Gorilla cookies Auto de FastBuds. Por el Momento todo va bien tienen buen color y van ahí formándose esas flores. Alimentamos nuestras plantas con Agrobeta. Por supuesto el ph se mide en cada riego y se mantiene en 6.2 y riego en intervalos de 48h. La temperatura está entorno al 22/24 grados y la humedad anda sobre el 50%. Las plantas en si ya están bien sanas, tutore la rama principal para que no se fuese de madre, y así controlaré la altura. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

The final week is on… #4 and #3 are pretty much done on the tops — amber is starting to show, and most of the trichs are cloudy. The lowers could definitely use a bit more time, but I’m gonna chop them as they are. #1 and #2, on the other hand, don’t seem ready at all yet. After the transplant, it’s like they got a second life — still throwing fresh stigmas like crazy. But it is what it is. The smell has shifted into something more chemical. The blueberry has moved way into the background. Maybe curing will bring some of it back, but I’m starting to think I should’ve chopped earlier. Looks like #3 hit her blueberry terp peak around week 7.5 — insane blueberry pie terps. Honestly, she didn’t bulk up that much more after that, so she probably could’ve been chopped right then. If that smell ends up fading for good, that’s gonna hurt. As you may have noticed, she didn’t really try that hard to go black in the end — but hey, there were attempts :)

👉The daily routine of twice daily fertigation has given me a small insight as to what Phil Conners may have gone thru. There has been promising changes however that re-assure me that the plant is indeed maturing and will finish soon. The top leaves are starting to fade, and a couple of amber trichomes have been spotted! So far the amber color is light, almost yellow, and should darken up a bit by harvest time. At the rate they seem to be getting cloudy/milky I could be harvesting in as little as 3 days, but that is just wishful thinking I'm sure. I'm hoping no more than 10 more days. But I will let the plant decide...as long as there are only a few clears and the rest cloudy then I will harvest. 👉I took one small cola tip bud from an upper level, secondary branch. It weighed 30g with leaves, 10g trimmed and when dried to 20% should be 2g. I did this to be able to inspect the buds with a little more stability when using the USB scope. Those pix are the first 6 on this page. 👉Nutrient mix is the same recipe: week 11 on the General hydroponics flora series drain to waste chart. I reduced the concentration to 1ms from 1.3. The saturation level for the pot is averaging around 1lt per fertigation. I give it 2.5l at lights on, and 2L 1-2hrs before lights off. For some reason this grow session there is a persistent/prolific algea growth on the outside of the pot (cloth pot). I have the same fan setup Ive been using all year. It may be that when I didnt spray the pot off for a couple week the algea got a firm hold on the pot. I use a pressure sprayer with a H2O2 solution (1gallon water with 60ml h202) to spray off the exterior of the pot every couple days. THis keeps it at bay somewhat. After harvest I will cut open the cloth pot to see if the algea extends inside the pot any and if has affected the roots. 👉 While trichome hunting is very kewl if good pictures are taken, its very frustrating to get a decent pic due to any slight shake causes the pic to blur. When doing daily eye loop inspections I dont turn off the grow lights or fans. But when trying to get pix I turn off all the fans and both grow lights. This helps a little when trying to take pix with the USB scope.I have the small scope mounted on a tripod and that eliminate my own movement, but just trying to focus proves to be tedious because any touch causes the image to shake wildly, which results in very slow progress as I search around the plant and try for decent pix. Today I got a tube extension set for my 35mm DSLR. It turned my regular 55mm lens into a macro lens. While its not the same as a regular macro lense, its way cheaper....35$ for the tube set as opposed to 300$ for an actual macro lens. THe high resolution allows me to get sharp images with a deeper feild of focus than the scope. I still need lots of practice and need to work on lighting. I included some cropped and un-cropped macro shots done with the camera. The other macro shots are the USB scope. You can see its still got plenty of clear, lots of cloudy, and an amber here or there. The areas that I have touched have strands of resin that look almost like spider silk. SOOOOOO frosty! Santa is going to really enjoy his milk and cookies when he visits my house.

I'm thinking another week... Not sure. She's bloody frosty though! 😲

Girls had a nice stretch this week and will be heavily defoliated by the end of week three

The plants are all really taking off nice bud growth and very healthy looking canopy. Plants are going through water every 3 days on the dot now. I have noticed that one plants buds are showing some purple hues but the others remain colorless so far. The Smell is really nice already. Very fruity it reminds me of fruit loops. My light is on full blast and the plants are praying nicely. There have been no signs of stress from the flip. I will likely defoliate a bit at the end of the week to make sure everything can get as much light as possible.

Continuing regimen of appx .75gal/plant nutrient top watering every 4-5 days alternating recharge .3-.4ish gal compost tea per plant. All other water coming from wicking bases only treated with 2ml/gal hydro guard. Lights are maxed out with us/ir 100% as well. All good so far. 👍

So, into day 9 of 12/12 and the girls have responded quickly. Bud sites appearing everywhere. Top dressed with some more nutrients, have had daily manicuring, i prefer little and often rather than 1 massive blast. I have turned the lights up to 85%, and will work it to 100 over the next week or so.

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 09/09/19 || To/Hasta: 15/09/19 From day/Desde día: 08 || To day/Hasta día: 14 Blueberry Cookies Diary / Diario de las BlueBerry Cookies: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/38769-dinafem-039-s-blueberry-cookies-at-the-ocean -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- V1 - Transplanting day. I'm using 10 l Aeropots as final recipient. I've used: - Small layer of ATAMI HydroRokz (perlite) at the bottom of the pot, just for cover bottom holes and to retain a bit of humidity - Over the perlite i placed 1l of mixture with BioBizz "All Mix" and Volcanic Soil - Again over, 1l of mixture with BioBizz "Light Mix" + Volcanic Soil & Guano - And filled the rest with BioBizz "Light Mix" + Volcanic Soil It's the second time that i broke half of the roots of a plant doing a transplant, It happened to me just for not being careful enough to hold the soil by the lower part. While this is no good, no further signs of that mistake other than the recorded video ;). V2 - Quick show up on how to correct the color of photos taken under red/ping/purple light. First I merge the HDR image from 3 bracketed shots, then I apply my custom color adjustment in the HDR resulting image. As i show in the video, to correct the red light, you have to enhance the blue and green curves, just play with a point in the curves until you find the best adjustment for each of both curves. Then you should go to tones, and play a bit with reds, pinks & purples... and.... Voilá, you can see the results, easy and effective..... but no more easy than using the right white spectrum. P1 - Cookies Showdown before transplant P7 - Volcanic soil and Guano -----WEEK SUMMARY----- This week was very easy, i didn't do anything to these babies apart from the transplant. This is the first time im mixing something with the soil, I hope not to overfeed the Cookies with the nutes, as i'm going to use the same nutrients i was using. The first 10 days they were growing in my 60x60x40 tent (DP60), with a terrible chinese light that i always use the first week wen I plant. PandaGrow 100W (50W draw) - http://www.pdgrow.com/index.php?m=Show&a=index&cid=12&id=53 So after transplanting when i place the plans under the Quantum Board or the Platinum LED, i've notice it on them immediately, they really don't like this kind of chinese lights. Thus after the transplant the plants has started to grow and wide much more and much quickly. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 12/09/19 DAY 11 - 1,5 l after transplant with all week nutrients @ 0.8 EC & PH5.8 *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES & VÍDEOS----- V1 - Día de transplante. Transplantaré a AeroPots de 10 l. Para el transplante he usado: - Una capa pequeña de ATAMI HydroRokz (perlita) en el fondo de los tiestos, sólo para cubrir los agujeros y retener un pelín de humedad. - Encima de la perlita he puesto 1 l de mezcla de BioBizz "All-Mix" con tierra volcánica - De nuevo encima he puesto otro litro de mezcla de BioBizz "Light-Mix" con guano y tierra volcánica - El resto está relleno con una mezcla de BioBizz "Light-Mix" con tierra volcánica Es la segunda vez que se me parter unas raíces por la mitad en un transplante, eso me pasa por no ser lo suficientemente cuidadoso como para agarrar el sustrato por su parte baja. Esto no es algo bueno, pero he de admitir que aparte del mal rato de que se te partan las raíces, a la planta no le sucede nada de nada, sigue creciendo al mismo ritmo que su hermana. V2 - Un ejemplo rápido de como corregir la iluminación de una foto tomada bajo un espectro rosado o rojizo En el vídeo primero compilo el HDR compuesto de 3 fotografías horquilladas y una vez compilado le aplico mi ajuste de color. Como muestro en el vídeo, para corregir este tipo de luces hay que realzar las curvas de color azul y verde, simplemente con un punto por encima de la mitad de la línea media hasta encontrar los puntos más adecuados para tu luz. una vez encontrados, sólo hay que ir a los tonos y ajustar un poquito el rojo, rosa y morado. P1 - Muestra de las Cookies antes del transplante P7 - Tierra volcánica y Guano -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- Esta semana ha sido muy sencilla, no les he hecho absolutamente nada a las pequeñas a parte del transplante. Esta es la primera vez que mezclo algo con el sustrato y espero no sobrealimentar las cookies ya que voy a seguir usando los mismos nutrientes que he usado con anterioridad y de la misma manera. Los primeros 10 días han crecido en mi tienda de 60x60x40 (DP60), con una luz china terrible: PandaGrow 100W (50W draw) - http://www.pdgrow.com/index.php?m=Show&a=index&cid=12&id=53 Siempre uso esa luz los primeros días de cada cultivo, por lo que al cambiarlas a la Quantum o al Platinum LED lo noto al toque, realmente no les gusta nada la luz china esa, inmediatamente se ponen a crecer y ensanchar mucho mas. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 12/09/19 DÍA 11 - 1,5 l después del transplante con todos los nutrientes semanales @ 0.8 EC & PH5.8

She will be ready to chop very soon W/all those beautiful budz

Topped and transplanted into larger pots and removed a couple of large fan leafs to allow light to reach lower arms, I also chopped the lowest branches and have kept as clones for another setup.

Harvest: Everything dried up to 347 grams + 96 grams of super high quality trim. Overall I am not too pleased with the smoke of the product. Although the bud size, bag appeal, smell and taste are pretty much all there, the shitty burn is a deal breaker for me and the majority of this weed is quite frankly useless. Another downside is while smoking I’ve found 4 seeds in an ounce from almost every strain. Light leaks? At least I learned a ton, including how to get super good burn for my next crop. I’m hoping that curing for a month or so will improve the burn but I wouldn’t really count on it. I have seen weed dried for 4 days with no cure and no flush smoke clean and not go out once. I have been told that the key to white ashes/clean burn is proper mineral content in the soil and there is tons of scientific studies on cigar ash going back 100 years. Plants grown in a medium with high levels of decomposing organic matter, phosphorus, magnesium, chlorine and heavy metal ratio tend to produce black/grey ash. Whereas plants grown in a medium with a higher ratio of trace minerals like calcium carbonate and potassium in the form of wood ash, rock dusts, oyster shell flour and lower levels of decomposing organic matter will produce a dense, uniform white ash that rarely goes out. But this is still all theory until I test it to confirm for myself a few times. My last few outdoor harvests did not improve with curing at all so I’m hoping this will be the missing link. Plain peat moss and coco clearly lack essential minerals that help burn. If said theory is correct I should find a synthetic nutrient line with more trace minerals. Makes me wonder if growing if rockwool/basalt rock could improve burn in a hydro setup. I think I did a fairly decent job for my first grow. I went wrong in a million different places but I still stuck it out and got some decent herb. Things went wrong early when I got black spot mold, nitrogen/magnesium deficiencies and powdery mildew. I corrected most of it but things didn’t get really bad until mid veg when I intentionally skipped a few feedings and defoliated quite heavily stunting the plants. I also didn’t even top or start LST until the 6-9th node which was really stupid and hurt my yield. My temperatures were all over the place from the learning curve. I was severely overwatering without realizing it. 100% peat moss is a shitty medium. I also fed way too late in flower (not what caused shitty burn). I also used synthetic nutrients in soil. Zkittlez bonsai Yield: 1.9g Smell: 7/10 - sweet, candy, berry, gassy, piney hints Bag appeal: 7/10 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 7.5/10 - very impressed Ash: 6/10 - flaky, mostly white/grey Fire holding: 4/10 - stays lit for 10-30 seconds Smoke: 6/10 - taste is decent, needs curing High: 6/10 - indica dom Comment: looks nice, smells nice, tastes nice, burns like shit. 43.5/70 = 62% 👎🗑️ Black Garlic #1 Yield: 53.6 Smell: 8/10 - gassy, piney, earthy, skunky Bag appeal: 7/10 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 7.5/10 - very impressed Ash: 8/10 - thick, uniform white ash Fire holding: 7.510 - stays lit for 45+ sec Smoke: 7.5/10 - taste is good until the end High: 7/10 - sativa dom Comment: looks nice, smells nice, tastes nice, burns great but quite leafy. 52.5/70 = 75% 👍🔥 Black Garlic #2 Yield: 42.3 Smell: 7/10 - woody, earthy, tea Bag appeal: 6.5/10 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 7/10 - impressed Ash: 6/10 - flaky, mostly white/grey Fire holding: 4/10 - stays lit for 10-30 seconds Smoke: 6/10 - taste is decent, needs curing High: 8/10 - sativa dom Comment: looks nice, smells nice, tastes nice, burns like shit. 44.5/70 = 63% 👎🗑️ Zkittlez Yield: 39.4 Smell: 7/10 - sweet, candy, berry, gassy, piney hints Bag appeal: 6.5/10 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 7.5/10 - very impressed Ash: 8/10 - thick, uniform white ashes Fire holding: 8/10 - stays lit for seconds Smoke: 7.5/10 - taste is decent, needs curing High: 7/10 - indica dom Comment: looks nice, smells nice, tastes nice, burns great but smalls didn’t fill out. 51.5/70 = 73% 👍🔥 Blackberry Breath #1 Yield: 57.5 Smell: 9/10 - sweet, grape, berry, gassy, earthy, hashy Bag appeal: 8.5/10 - dense, sparkly buds Crystal coverage: 9/10 - super impressed Ash: 5/10 - flaky, mostly grey/blackish Fire holding: 4/10 - stays lit for 10-30 seconds Smoke: 5/10 - tastes like chalky shit High: 6/10 - indica dom Comment: looks amazing, smells amazing, tastes like shit, burns like shit. 46.5/70 = 66% 👎🗑️ Blackberry Breath #2 Yield: 76.1g Smell: 6/10 - musky, tea, berry, herbal Bag appeal: 8/10 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 7.5/10 - very impressed Ash: 5/10 - flaky, mostly grey/black Fire holding: 4/10 - stays lit for 10-30 seconds Smoke: 5/10 - taste is shit High: 6/10 - indica dom Comment: looks nice, smells shitty, tastes shitty, burns like shit. 41.5/70 = 59% 👎🗑️ Slurricane #4 Yield: 34.5g Smell: 8.5/10 - gassy, deep piney, fuel, earthy, Bag appeal: 8.510 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 7.510 - impressed Ash: 6/10 - flaky, mostly white/grey Fire holding: 4/10 - stays lit for 10-30 seconds Smoke: 6/10 - taste is decent High: 6/10 - indica dom Comment: looks amazing, smells amazing, tastes nice, burns like shit. 46.5/70 = 66% 👎🗑️ Badazz OG Cheese Yield: 43.5g Smell: 6.5/10 - musty, woody, cheesy, piney hints Bag appeal: 6/10 - slightly leafy/stemy Crystal coverage: 6/10 - very impressed Ash: 5/10 - flaky, mostly white/grey Fire holding: 4/10 - stays lit for 10-30 seconds Smoke: 6/10 - taste is decent High: 6/10 - sativa dom Comment: looks like shit, smells decent, tastes decent, burns like shit. 39.5/70 = 56% 👎🗑️

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Day 41 Start of week 7- the 3rd light looks like it has added some over-all weight, however, doesn’t look like I’ll pull a gram per watt out of the 3 lights together. We’ll find out soon enough, few more weeks.

High temperatures and lots of rain is how the last week went and by the looks of it, she's absolutely loved it. 25cm growth in a few days, had to raise up the shade netting. We're at the 6ft mark now, probably 6-7ft wide! It's actually becoming really hard to photograph her. Been keeping up the all organic approach and have just completed a very cool book on botanical teas and been playing with around with what I have on hand.