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Hello Diary, Cherry Pie has finished its last week, I harvested it two days after taking the photo. 73 days since I put the seeds in the ground. 65 days since the start of the vegetation. Really very fast. But the result is impressive as you can see in the photos. The flowers are large and dense, the branches bend slightly under their weight. The main cola is especially large and full of large flowers covered in trichomes. The flowers are very hard to the touch and sticky under the fingers, especially the flowers on the main cola. The leaves have started to turn autumn yellow which is also an indicator of its maturity. The smell is very intense at this stage, the whole room smells like plants when I open the grow box. Watering was standard, every three days. This week I stopped adding nutrients, I just lowered the p.H. to 6.0 and water the plants with clean water. After taking the photos, I left it in the grow box for two more days to drink all the water from the soil to make it easier to dry. Before cutting, I removed all the leaves from the plant to also make drying faster and have less work to trim the dried flowers. After cutting, I left it upside down in the grow box to dry. Now all that remains is to see how much it has really rewarded me. See you when that happens. Here's what the last week looked like. 19/09/2024 - Day 57. Watering. I prepared 9 liters of water, lowered the pH to 6.0 and used that amount to water all three plants on the farm. 22/09/2024 - Day 60. Watering. I repeated the same procedure as three days earlier. 24/09/2024 - Day 62. I watered them all with 1.5 liters of water each plant so that they were fresh for the photo shoot. 25/09/2024 - Day 63. End of the last, 9th week since Cherry Pie began its journey. Photo shoot. 27/09/2024 - Day 65. Cherry Pie has been harvested. That's almost all from me for this diary, there is still the final report that follows after drying and testing. Thank you all once again for your support and comments.
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@TOTEM
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*** About the question I sent: that “crazy” EC I was talking about last week was 3100 PPM, not the one you see on this week. *** This week I’m enlarging the plant as much as I can to prepare her for the scrOG. Day 40: LST + defoliation
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@nurari
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Первая неделя прошла. Растения развиваются, сейчас нам важно создать отличную корневую систему для мощного и быстрого развития растения. В этот раз взял на тест новый для меня продукт - микоризу "Big Foot". ПО обычаю сделал чай, который готовился сутки. Все что нам нужно это вода, микориза, сахар и кислород. в моем случае заместо сахара я использую мелассу из свеклы Результат не должен заставить себя ждать.
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@nonick123
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No me deja añadir el video resumen en la semana de cosecha.
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First time running hydroponics. And I’ll say it’s pretty easy although running into problems with ph rising cause of not using ro water so it started getting a potassium deficiency. I think I’m prepared for next run.
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@Jacks_Pot
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This will be the last week of 18/6. I've got to count 2 - 3 weeks of stretching at 12/12 and the surface of the screen ain't that huge. I've did some defoiling, not much...just some top leaves and some under the screen. My watering and feeding strategy is that I start with little doses, less then prescribed by Canna. The soil is fresh so there are already nutrients available. I don't water the Runtz everyday, but every other day. This week that was about 1 liter every other day. And it got a bit brighter this week. The grow lights are lowered to 70 cm (27 inches) at 224 watt. Do you want to grow this strain? 👉 https://www.zamnesia.com/6000-zamnesia-seeds-runtz-feminized.html 👈
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@Cannabot
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Very resisant strain,grows thick colas.This strain needs a proper veg time as they are short plants.Nutes wise it's a medium to heaver feeder.
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@CalGonJim
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7/7 2AM MONDAY Awesome week last week, AMINOS are working better then I cold have imagined!!!! I got a new AC Infinity Germination Propagation system, lights and all. Now I can have a mobile one for the kitchen and veggies..... I never thought I would become a gardener. now I understand how cells work, how it all works... and most information is outdated and inaccurate!!! I should be able to find a mix of human aminos I can use in these plants to overcome heat and salinity AND lower wattage because of increased photosynthesis from application of AMINOS with healthy diet of AN as a base!!!! 725am setting up the new AC Infiniti germination kit or Sith Lord propagation system 145pm BANANA PURPLE PUNCH....JUST SMOKED SOME CUT OFF BOTTOM BRANCH. WAS NOT HARSH..RIGHT OFF THE PLANT AND NOT HARSH. BONG, WATER FILTER BUT NOT TOO BAD. SHE SMELLS SO STRONG AND FRUITY AND FRESH, NOT BAD, SMALL SIZE MAKES NO DIFFERENCE IN TASET OR EFFECT. THE AMINOS MUST BE DOING SOMETHING. ALL STALKS ACROSS ALL PLANTS AND 3 DIFFERENT GROWS ARE MUCH STRONGER!!! SMALL 1 GALLON GROWS CAN MAKE STALKS THIN HOWEVER THIS WILL COMPENSATE FOR THAT WITH AMINO, M BLUE, SILICA, FULL STRENTH AN CON 4ML PER L. 7/8 1am THIN STALKS / PROBLEM/RESOLUTION - 1 gallon veg will lead to thinner stalks than tall plants can self support. RESOLUTION: REIFORCMENTS THROUGH AMINOS AND MBLUE. MB & AMINO /NUTRIENTS COMBINATION REACTS WITH NITROGEN DURING VEGETATIVE PERIOD GIVING EXTRA PLASTICITY & STRENGTH TO LEAF SURFACE. ALMOST RUBBER LIKE IN SHINE AND FEEL. STALKS / MAIN AND OFFSHOOTS ARE SIMILAR, THE VERY SMALL AMOUNTS OF SILICA DELIVERED WITH MB/AMINOS/NUTES. WORK TO MASSIVELY INCREASE STRENGTH!!!!! 4X AT LEAST WITH SAME THICKNESS!!!!!!👨‍🔬. AND LST WORKING TO ALSO INCREASE BRANCH THICKNESS AND FULLNESS xylem/phloem just awesome ....AROMAS ARE HEAVY AFTER FEEDINGS....I CANT BURN THE LEAF TIPS WITH THIS COMBO. I HAVE TO BUY ALL 18 AMINOS AND DO MILLIGRAM DOSES...I DONT KNOW HOW TO DO THAT YET. YET!! copy and paste title so I can find this again!!!!!!! Amino Acid Transporters in Plants: Identification and Function .....https://www.mdpi.com/2223-7747/9/8/972..... FUNICULUS....FOR HOME SYSTEM THEY NEVER TALK ABOUT PRACTICALITY OR SMELL OR STORAGE....AMINOS AND ORGANICS STINK....FOLAR AMINO SPRAYS WOULD STINK UP THE TENT, THE HOUSE, I DONT SEE HOW A SPRAY WOULD BE A CLEAN SOLUTION. SO AMINOS WILL NOT BE SPRAYED IN A SMALL HOME ENVIRONMENT, TOO DIRTY. 230AM SOLUTION IS TO AMINO THE ROOTBALL. DIFF. CONCENTRATION OF N WILL BURN THO....HMMMM. NOT A PHD..ADVANCED HOBBY. DONT NEED ALL THIS...SO AMINOS ARE ROOT DELIVERED WITH MBLUE 1 DROP PER L. WHICH ONES AND WHEN NEXT. THIS SYSTEM IS FOR FUCKED UP PEOPLE TIRED AND NOT VERY MOBILE....SO EVERYTHING MUST BE PRESTENED EASY TO USE. 305AM....I SMOKED BBP LASNIGHT FULLY GROWN WITH MB AND I DIDNT WAKE UP ANY MORE RETARED THAN USUAL SO ITS GOOD. 545am """A critical review of citrulline malate supplementation and exercise performance...https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8571142/"""". 🍉"to achieve an intake of 10 g of L-citrulline, ingestion of around 3–5 kg of fresh watermelon (highest concentration of all foods) would be required and this is not only impractical for athletes (Davis et al. 2011), but would also not contain a sufficient dose of the malate component."😂 in 2L 💦: 2 drops Methylene Blue 5 percent, 5 drops Quick Sorb Amino Acid, 1 pill (contents not the gel) Nitric Boost, 0.5ml Rhino Silica, 8mL Con. Bloom A+B, 3ml Big Bud by AN. AND Bud Factor X 4ml.... that might be too much!!!! 10AM.....RESULTS ARE BLOWING MY FUCKING MIND.!!!!!! 2BBB AND 2 GOATS NO BURNS...HOW IS THAT POSSIBLE?????? FULL NUTE LOAD!!!!!! I ADDED BUD FACTOR X, I SHOULD SEE BURNS AND CURLS...AND IM NOT!!!!!! TIP TRAIN THE ROOTBALL SYSTEM LIKE A SEPERATE LIFE FORM. WATER QUICKLY & LIGHTLY THE TOP TO ALART THE PLANT OF INCOMING WATER FROM BOTTOM, THIS PULLS WATER UP FIRST, THEN BOTTOM FEED TO KEEP FLOW UPWARD AND CONSISTENT, SLOW POURS WORK. 1020am goat by Royal Queen seeds might be one of the best plants I’ve ever seen in my life and all of the plants from fast buds to seedsman bubbles blueberry F4 all with the treatment I’m using are growing and expanding faster than I’ve ever seen stronger stocks than I’ve ever seen in no burns. I may have locked in the system that prevents burns and grows in very difficult environments I have not done any flushing, so there is an excessive nutrient and salt buildup in the fertilizer in the soil and we’re still having fantastic results.👍👍👍👍👍👍💥💥💥💥💥💥🚨🚨🚨 7/9 330am methylene blue, aminos are working on the plants AND me!!!!!!!!!! Best results so far. I didn't pH the water right it was probably 6.5 or higher. I see a little stress on G Gas F1, not bad GG auto had stress burns prior to new MB/Amino she is doing great even with way too high fertilizer !!!!!
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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.
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@Darth_Cha
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6/11 - My seeds finally came in the mail and I got to soak them this morning. With the start of the soaking I also took the time to mix my Fox Farms Happy Frog Potting Soil along with my nutrients. I wanted to make sure my ratios are a little balanced but slightly heavier on the all purpose fertilizer to start out. In my first feeding I might go a little heavier on the Bud & Bloom than with the All Purpose depending on when I think they need to be fed and how close they are to flowering. Perlite was added to the soil to make sure there was good drainage and I will be using 5 gallon fabric pots. I’m planning to do some LST along with possibly topping/FIMing the plants just to see what comes of it, so I’m excited for that. This is my very first grow and I’m not much of a gardener (yet) so any and all input and advice would be very much welcome thanks 🌱🌱🌿 PS - Sorry for the angle the video the next ones will be correct. 6/14 - All three seeds popped over the two days the spent in the paper towels! Finally putting them in the soil feels good. Going to keep the soil above the seeds moist with a handheld sprayer using distilled water every few hours until the light shut off for the night. I forgot to take pictures of the seeds before planting them. From here I’m hoping to get at least one of them to pop through the ground in the next couple of days. Of course, I’m still looking for tips and input. 🌱 6/16 - All three seeds have made it through the soil so that is more step forward. The critical purple has a shell still on one of its leaves so I’m hoping it pops off on its own in a day or so otherwise I may try to gently tap it off. Currently, the grow lights are about 24 inches away from the seedlings. I think I might keep them at this distance until I notice stretching or leaves curling.
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@Rwein93
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Ciao ragazzi e bentornati qui con me e il diario della colazione! 🥐🥛☕ Ultima settima di vegetativa questa, domani porterò il programma a 12/12. Non vedo l ora di vedere la stanza riempirsi di buds.😋 Ho lasciato riposare loro per una settimana intera dallo stress che potevano aver risentito. Poi nel giorno 35 ho eseguito ancora l allenamento per riempire, più o meno, tutta la superficie del vaso.💪 Mentre le piegavo ho eseguito anche una massiccia defogliazione eliminando foglie e germogli inutili.🤙 Ho bagnato loro nel giorno 32 e 35 con 1 litro soltanto di acqua, dato che il clima è molto umido questa settimana e ha influenzato i valori nella stanza, alzandoli intorno al 70/75%👍 Nel complesso molto bene, sono le ragazze più belle nella stanza e mi sono innamorato della loro struttura solida e veloce😍 Grazie a tutti per aver guardato e restate sintonizzati per nuovi aggiornamenti golosi🙏 Buona settimana e felice crescita🌱🌱🌱
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@Haoss
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I have to dry the buds in the dark, at 21 degrees in 50% humidity 🤯
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@SamDo
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Hello, fin de la semaine 3 de Flo. Les plantes on presque fini leur stretch de pré floraison. La densité du feuillage était énorme au dessus du scrog. J’ai donc effectué une grosse défoliation pour laisser circuler l’air et aussi augmenter la pénétration de la lumière. Je pense que j’aurais peu être due tailler un peu plus les toutes petites pousses pour éviter les pop-corn car beaucoup on poussaient pendant la pré floraison. Les 1ères buds commencent à se former. Elles vont pouvoir se développer un peu mieux grâce à la défoliation dans les prochaines semaines. J’ai aussi augmenté la puissance de la lampe. Je suis passé à 100% soit 600w pour les 4 dernières semaines à venir. Voilà tout pour cette semaine Happy grow...😎
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Would definitely recommend for an easy grow. Takes forever due to 100% sativa genetics but well worth the grow. Smells just like cannalopes with a hint of cocoa and a strong dank/sour odor. High is fantastic starting and feeling heaviest right behind the eyes/sinuses. Spreads to extremities in a slight relax feeling. The taste and smell of the smoke is extremely smooth and tastes like the sour + cantaloupes. The buds have a lot of shades of green but are predominantly dark covered in crystals. Smell isn’t extremely strong in bag but once buds begin breaking apart it is almost unbearable and resin makes it hard to break apart by hand do grinder is needed.