Raised lights an inch and switched to FF Grow Big 10/ml/gal. Working on getting humidity up and temp down, such a conundrum. Added humidifier outside the tent next to the vent in. Plants look really good. The Pineapple Chunk is the biggest still but a little less dark green than the Presidential and Fruity Pebbles. Fruity Pebbles was the smallest but at the end of the week it seems to be almost as big as the Presidential.

First week Veg and the growth is remarkable! Starting out with a very much needed repotting, which they all appreciated. Their colour got fully uniform and more vibrant after only a couple of hours. Their definitive locations in the grow tent are: Top left - Sunset Sherbet Bottom left - Gorilla Glue (you can check out her diary on my profile) Top right - Bruce Banner Bottom right - Biscotti Mintz All are developing a strong structure with consistency. Very little water is needed, the humidity in the tent is stable by itself. Don’t got much to worry about, just enjoying watching them grow. Perks of a good living soil.

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

Day 1 of flower

This week they are all just putting on some weight still a few weeks left to go. Pics were taken on Monday video on Tuesday. The aromas are pretty strong in the tent in general. Shes a struggler but it's too late to turn back now just gunna let it finish.

Coming up on week 5 (Veg) she has been rocking well, Light nute feed and added a humidifier temps 84 Humidity 83 - looking to transplant this mother very soon 08/01 - Closing up week 5 - 13 inches (5 inches in one week) tied down main A steams - prepping for cloning - topped side branches - micro dose feeding ( Silica. Nitro, Super Thrive, Cal-Mag)

So I had absolutely no ill effect on the plants at at all moving from the green buzz veg feed too the house & garden soil a&b feeds, I did not even given them a water only inbetween the two, I also went straight in with 50% the recommended dose stated on the house & Gardens bottles this switched happened the day before week 5 none showed any signed of defects or deficiency intact they exploded into life over night and then every day after that, I have been using the green buzz fast buds as a folar spry appied too the leaves of the early flower formation after lights out, They seemed too love that too and I also kept the note roots going in, I also started too apply C-RESULT at the fullbl dose stated on the bottle, The plants live this stuff if you have not tried it do it, I am not sponcered by c-result I was given this by my local grow store, It brings all the nutrients straight too the roots it states, All I know is this stuff triggers the plants too suck the pots dry in 24 hours, So make sure you have your feed bucket fully in order before adding this stuff as a mistake here could cost you, But get it right and in 24 hours these little autos doubled in size, It states too used week one of flower only and smells like a sewer lol I have today day one of week 6 Started too add house & garden Bud XL at half strength too increase next week and also I added there top shooter at 1ml per liter of water as 7 as I plan too removed all chemicals exactly as of day 1 of week 7 leaving me week 9 clean, I did not top any of these girls, I am training all the shooting tips too my scrog netting the best I can due too very limited space in the grow space, And am praying for some of the promised purple leaves on the fast buds Web site, I has on lemon pie this round that is 2 weeks behind the rest due too non germination but I am wondering if a staggered planting each plant exactly one week behind each other would give me a little more canapé space and the treat of harvesting a plant every week, Using the skyline 1000 only I did not too any of these autos 2 x strawberry cheese cake 2 x lemon pie 4 x fyah Sounds like a plan too me, Thanks for reading

Time to flush

Ec 1.5 ph 5.8 lampada 30/40cm

As my previous experience, I decided to use 10L pots, which is the best ratio I had last year regarding quantity/soil. First week only with plain water, no Ph regulation

She was harvested this week day 73 from seed week 11. All pistols went amber and trichomes 90% cloudy. As you can see from pics and videos, she is FROSTY. I will put the harvest under next week because i want to give dry weights. She is hanging drying out now. I flushed for 1 week using mollasses and tps signal with ph water. The last 4 weeks of her flowering was done outside in the green house. I cannot wait to try her out. Smells awsome. Good job OSSC!

The strain is really strong to various stress, it's felt a difference between the two phenotipes, their are both delicious but one more berry flavoured and the other more exotic one. At the moment the best strain I've ever grow! 💐🍧

Didn't bother with the defoliation this week....maybe this upcoming week let's see how she takes to the food first😎

They have really taken off.

welcome to Day 15 1/1/20 and she is getting tall I'm going to need my new trellis net very soon, as you can see she is nice and healthy and I should not need to top water anymore. now I can relax to some extent. As always happy growing and keep your stick on the ice

WE ARE SO BACK PEOPLE!! 🎉🎉 Welcome welcome back to my weekly update, we got some good and some bad news this week. Bad news first: I will postpone harvesting due to the trichomes remaining clear which I am pretty frustrated about. BUT good news: we got some new light! I updated to a FC-1500 EVO from MarsHydro which got some insane efficiency compared to my last light. I can hang it 10 cm higher with a better light spread and a PPFD increase of 200 (now staying at around 900 PPFD throughout the tent) and all this while taking 10w less! Truly a technologie of all time! 😂 However I will harvest on Wednesday in the upcoming week, because it allows me to have my desired 10 days of dry-time while also maintaining my schedule with starting the Cup-grow February 1st. I also included some Bud Porn this time around because I felt like messing with DavinciResolve again, nothing too fancy though :) 14.01.: - watered all plants with 1L/plant - increased max. temperature to 26 Celsius - decreased the light to 20 cm height ➡️ all of this to boost the metabolism of the plants for them to produce cannabinoids faster and making my trichomes milkier 16.01.: - changed the lamp to MarsHydro FC-1500 EVO - height at around 30 cm while maintaining the temperature levels 17.01.: - watered all plants with 1L/plant - this is the last watering they will receive

Harvest after 77days, before harvest she get 8 days only water and 1time flush 60l. Easy grow, and she have a nice smell Soon update

respectable auto strain with a reasonable yield. tolerant of nutrients and not finicky for a sativa. I think this is a lemon haze but can’t say for certain. hang dry whole plant for a week, spot trim and then cure for 2-4 weeks, monitoring the RH in jars from 65% down to 55% for a solid cure.