Wow! Hard to believe these are autoflowers, I’ve never harvested a cola off an autoflower quite this robust. The hps lights in the 2nd grow room were maybe a bit much and all the plants handled it differently. The big beast is one that did very nicely under the hps lights. The smaller much more frostier dried bud is from the mars hydro ts1000 grow tent. Not nearly the yield or density but beautiful crystal covering the buds. Amazing colour from both the led grow dark devils and the hps ones.

Didn't get the potential. Very happy with the look of the finished product , so far I'll give this particular strain 9.3. In it's best stability this would be my go to phenotype cause of the overall potential and ratio. Very happy for it being my first auto grow experience now I'm hooked. Definitely would suggest this bad girl for a first time auto enthusiast and for the connoisseur . I've been looking into that Purple Lemonade by Fast Buds and very excited to purchase also that Black Berry cause they remind me of the Blue Dreams large flower to plant ratio. For now and my next auto grow will beee......🥁 FB.Six Shooter, VS.Super Xtra Skunk, Seedsman's Northern Lights Seedsman's Limited Edition Strawberry Cheesecake. I decided to do multiples this time because of finish times I feel will never be the extact either way I'll try to get a rotation going .😃

E voilà! Dopo 120 giorni e ben 7 ore consecutive di pulizia oggi finalmente ho raccolto. Aspetto di pesarla tra due settimane ma ad occhio è stata la volta migliore di sempre, non ho mai riempito 6 livelli della rete per l'essiccazione e non ci ho messo mai 7 ore a pulirla tutta. Bene. Le più scarse sono state sicuramente le due Peyote Critical, mentre la Blue sunset Shebert e le due Tropicanna Banana molto abbondanti. Non vedo l'ora di pesare 🤩😍🤩😍🤩😍🤩🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀

Hey I topped them for the 2nd time today and tied the main shoots down a bit. 😊 I think she will cope with it. I'll leave her completely alone for a week now to see if she has slowly recovered from the accident 1 week ago. ❌I have a huge problem with humidity. Maybe someone can help me and tell me how to regulate the humidity❌ PPFD- 705 DLI- 46😵‍💫 Normally I would like to see a 40 DLI but that's not possible without getting below 700 PPFD

FERMAKOR BARREL MIX – BASE IN USE (Testing on the Fantasy Feast girl we pulled out of another diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/274722-grow-journal-by-yan402 ) (FERMAKOR BASE SYSTEM KOH VERSION diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/278391-grow-journal-by-yan402) (Urea & Micros on the way — first week running without them) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 30 L Barrel – Current Working Mix 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 Step 1 – Calcium Nitrate (Part A) 7 L warm water (~35–40 °C) → added 45 g Calcinit, stirred until fully clear. That’s the calcium + nitrogen backbone for the feed. Step 2 – FERMAKOR PK Base (Part B) 15 L water in the main barrel → added 30 ml FERMAKOR PK Concentrate, mixed well. This forms the main P + K part of the formula. Step 3 – Combine Solutions Slowly poured the Calcinit mix into the barrel while stirring — no reaction, still crystal clear. That confirms the mix is stable and precipitation-free. 🌿 Step 4 – FPJ / FFJ Batch Added 30 ml homemade FPJ (fish + veg batch) ≈ 1 ml/L. Color shifted to a light-amber tone — looks alive and active. 🍋 Step 5 – Citric Acid Balance Added 1 tsp citric acid after everything was blended to fine-tune pH and help chelate micros later on. 📦 Step 6 – Top Up & Check Filled to the 30 L mark with plain water → pH tested with drops, showing yellow-green — roughly 5.8 – 6.0 range. Nice clean look, stable smell, no residue. 💧 Current Base Ingredients (Active Mix) Warm Water ≈ 22 L total Calcinit 45 g → N + Ca foundation FERMAKOR PK Base 30 ml → P + K support Citric Acid 1 tsp → Chelation + pH balance FPJ / Fish Emulsion 30 ml → Organic enzyme booster Result: clean amber mix, mild and balanced. I’ll let this version run for a week before adding anything. 👀👀👀👀👀👀 Observations and changes 👀👀👀👀👀👀 27.10.25 VW27 noticed some min burnt tips so I decreased Calcium Nitrate 45 to → 40g, decided to add two more elements micros and Epsom salts just to make sure they got everything, Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g, Epsom salts: 8 g 28.10.25 VW27 she seems devoid of any deficiencies, seems ready for the flip to 12/12 02.11.25 VW27 girl is looking good so I decided to stop making daily videos and do a standard once a week update. 09.11.25 aVW28 7 days since flip,stretch in full swing, first pistils showing, leaf color deep and healthy. Slight tip burn early week → gone after pH stabilized. Feed stayed clear, no residue, roots clean and sweet-smelling, did what I hope is a last cleanup and pruning🎥 10.11.25 VW29 added Phosphoric acid pH down to the schedule for flowering stage. 14.11.25 FW1 FERMAKOR PK Micros 40 → 50 ml 23.11.25 FW2 got some burnt tips, observe and act accordingly in case it worsens, diluted by 25% for this week. 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 23.11.25 FW1 – Fed 3l of #1 → 1l runoff 24.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 25.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 26.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 27.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 28.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 29.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 30.11.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30 L #1 Veg — FERMAKOR 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Calcium Nitrate (Calcinit / Nitcal): 45 g → 40 g → 35 g = 1.33 g/L → 207 ppm N + 253 ppm Ca = 1.17 g/L → 183 ppm N + 224 ppm Ca (current) 💧 PK Concentrate (FERMAKOR Base): 30 ml → 40 ml → 50 ml = 1.00 → 1.33 → 1.66 ml/L → balanced 1:1 P:K + light micros (from extract) 💧 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Fish + Veg): 30 ml = 1.00 ml/L Epsom Salt (MgSO₄·7H₂O): 8 g = 0.27 g/L → 26 ppm Mg + 35 ppm S 💧 Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g = 0.017 g/L → Fe 0.7 ppm • Mn 0.7 ppm • Zn 0.3 ppm • Cu 0.3 ppm • B 0.1 ppm • Mo 0.02 ppm Phosphoric Acid (pH down) + Citric Acid (chelation): → First set pH with phosphoric acid → Add a little citric only if extra chelation is needed 💧 Target pH: 5.8 – 6.0 (drop test yellow-green) 📦 TOTAL Inputs: 60 ml → 70 ml → 80 ml / 48.5 g per 30 L = 2.00 → 2.33 → 2.66 ml/L + 1.62 g/L (current) YouTube Link: https://youtube.com/-m8h?si=A7x4Zlr2kj-_ga31

🌱 Week 3, Day 7 Update: Buds Are Blooming! 🌿 Hey Grow Fam, We're cruising through Week 3, and my girl is really coming on—buds are starting to form, and it's a sight to behold! The girl is growing so fast now, drinking 4.5L a day. She could even do with in-between waterings, in my opinion. She's aiming for the stars and shooting for the moon, getting bigger every day and stinking out my room. I had to tie my light higher up with some rope as it wouldn't go any higher, and shoots were getting way too close! I did SCROG when flipping, and I should've been a bit more strict on it (did it longer), but now I realize why SCROG is used. Imagine if I never used it—she would be way too tall. Overall, I'm so happy with how she is growing and can't wait to see the final product. :) But, as with any journey, we've hit a little bump in the road. Despite keeping our feeding consistent at 850ppm, the runoff readings have been creeping up. Last check-in showed a runoff of 1400ppm. It's got me thinking we might be dealing with a salt buildup in the root zone. To address this, I'm sticking with our feeding routine at 800-850ppm. If the runoff ppm keeps climbing or if our plants start showing signs of nutrient burn, I will adjust accordingly, but as of right now, I'm sticking to the same feed as she looks great! ( If I do begin to notice signs of nutrient burn (excess), I will try to water with a lower EC/PPM, like 700ppms, to bring it down. But if I don't get the results I'm hoping for, I will just flush the plant with 3x the media size of water (just plain pH water) to wash out any old salts and reset the medium. You don't really want to do this with coco depending on what stage your at in flower, veg on the other hand flush.? Sure!, if you really need to reset that medium go for it, (i do see tiny signs of burn but thats fine if it gets worse then i have a problem) Let's stay focused and keep our eyes on the prize—beautiful healthy buds. We've got this! #GrowUpdate #Week3 #BudsBlooming #KeepGrowing 🌱🌿

Wow she looks awesome!!!! I really don’t know what else to say. She smells pungent with a fuel odor. She has big buds buds big as my head!

Week 5 with the 40L pots and first week of flowering. The plants filmed at the end they where from a diffrent tent but i put them inside my big tent to finish their flower period, they where grown in 11L pots whole veg & flower period. The main grow that this post is about are 40L pots. I just had to show the buds in the 11L pots ;)

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Checkout my Instagram @smallbudz to see the Small budget grow setup for indoor use, low watt, low heat, low noise, step by step. 13/12/2019 - Change the light schedule to 12-12h after 8 weeks of no signs of flowering I think is a photo not and auto. 16/12/2019 - Fed her 1.5l of 6.5PH water with 0,5ml of each: Grow, Bloom and Max, and 1ml of each: Heaven, Alga-mic and Vera, noticed about 10% run off, I use about 1/3 of the nutrient dosage on the chart, to achieve about 200/300PPM (500 scale). 17/12/2019 - Did some defoliation on the lower branches mainly.

Je l'ai laissé chez quelqu'un pendant plusieurs semaines donc je n'ai pas beaucoup de photos

Must thank to ripper seed that provide me with these awesome bean🙇‍♂️ 21/2/24 Transplant clone Vegetative stage Light and Enviroments💡💧 Light 18/6 (06.00 AM - 12.00 PM) Aim VPD around 0.7-0.9 Temp26-28 RH70-80 DLI 16-18 PPFD 200-300 21/2/24 Transplant clone Vegetative stage Light and Enviroments💡💧 Light 18/6 (06.00 AM - 12.00 PM) Aim VPD around 0.7-0.9 Temp26-28 RH70-80 DLI 16-18 PPFD 200-300 22/2/24 Water 15L+Silica m/ fulvic 16ml(half) @0.1ec +V1 130ml @1.2Ec+V2 125ml @2Ec Ph 5.4 +Silica m/ Fulvic 25ml @PH6 Ec2.1 @11.00PM -Up to 6.2 @08.00AM 23/2/24 Last batch mix @ph5.7 2.30min shot 180ml 24/2/24 Tents feed 19 drippers @25min per min Water3.8L+Silica mix Fulvic 6ml+1ml root exceluration+BushDoctor5ml total 0.3Ec +V1 40ml @1.3Ec(50%)+V2 30ml final@2EC Ph5.7 1min shot every 4and half hours total 4 shots 07.30 Am 12.00 Am 04.00 Pm 09.00 Pm 25/2/24 🏕️ Water 5L+Silica mix Fulvic+V1 45ml+V2 35ml Ph5.6 EC 2 1shot every 3hrs First shot 12 AM 03.00 PM 26/2/24 🏕️ Last batch mix feed 1Min feed 12.00 AM 03.00 PM Veg Foliar last 5min before lights off 27/2/24 🏕️ Water5L+Silica mix Fulvic 7ml+V1 40ml @1EC +V2 40ml @2EC Ph5.7 2Min feed 12.00 AM 03.55 PM 06.25 PM 09.15 PM 1min feed, hand watering to adjust any underwatering 28/2/24 Water 16L+Rhino Skin 15ml @0.1EC+Calmag 15ml @0.3EC PH6.9 + V1 125ml @1.2EC+V2 120ml @2EC PH6.2 adjust to PH5.6 Dryback right now is 15% for 24hrs ⛺ Feed 08.50 AM 1.30Min 02.25 PM 1Min 04.50 PM 1Min hand watering to adjust any underwatering Defoliation most big fans leave

Petit problème d’inattention et tous déborde. Certaines branche ont cramer du coup j’ai du retirer le filtre à charbon et le mettre à l’extérieur, le panneaux est quasiment à ras du plafond. Arrosage toujours eau , miel ou molasse, acides Humic et fluvic, et de temps en temps pollen d’abeille En théorie demain j’ai mes myco et mes bacillus, j’ai hâte de tester Je ferais un thé très gourmand pour booster la Flo

20.05. I don't have anything special to write, today is the end of her third week, she hasn't made any special progress, the weather is constantly bad... today was a nice day and I took them outside to sunbathe after a long time, from tomorrow everything will be as usual, for the next week only rain, the temperatures won't be as low as before, but it won't be satisfactory either, during the day it will be okay, but again with a little sun... Stay high!

***

Week 11 VEG! In today's video we do the second transplant to the girls final pot. In two weeks I'll be sending the Clones to flower cutting the veg time short. I got some new beans that I'm wanting to pop and try out. Hope everybody's doing well what's a lockdown. Cheers!-G.I.JOSE

Pretty Much Done

Growing this particular plant was extremely eye opening to me and the future grows I will be doing. It's allowed me to get first hand experience with a different strain, a new substrate, different nutrients and different ways of growing! I learnt that my yields will be enhanced through the use of a larger pot regardless of the substrate, light or strain, but the pot size I have makes for a very nice little plant with big 4 large frosty colas enhanced by advanced grow techniques. Damn it. Just missed the 200g dry weight... I thank everyone who joined me on this grow and specially to all those that commented!