🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

Now they are a bit bigger , this is the start of week 2 , now day 19 in real time from germination. I would appreciate any help to maximise the yield. I feed around 500-600 ppm. How much should the drain be ? I have to plants struggling, one had 500 run off , should I give nutes or flush them more ?

3.9.2024: Start of week 8. Day 50 from seed, 46 from sprout. Nothing doing today, plant is healthy and getting fatter by the day. Plucked a few leaves but thats it. 3.10.2024: Day 51. Fed 1/4 strength fox farm trio mixed w/ calmag into over a gal of 6.5ph water. Gave roughly 3 liters of the solution. Runoff ppm is finally under 1000. Might increase nutes to 1/2 strength moving forward. Bud development on the main cola is almost half the main stalk now. I'm no pro when it comes to taking pictures so its hard for me to get clear, detailed shots of the nugs. 3.11.2024: Day 52, 48 from sprout. Moving along nicely. 3.12.2024: Day 53. Fed 1/4 strength, roughly 96oz at 6.4ph. I broke the feed/water/feed schedule and fed twice in a row. Also did some lite defoliation on the bottom fan leaves that weren't getting light. 3.13.2024: Day 54 from seed. Plant is doing its thing. 3.14.2024: Day 55. Fed again at 1/4 strength, 96oz at 6.6ph. Runoff ppm was 880. 3.15.2024: Day 56 from seed, 52 from sprout.

Well it was another great week for the Super Silver Haze sisters!! Day 28 for them and they are growing very well👌They have all grown about an inch in height in the last week. Plant #1 has a slight earthy/ fruity smell starting to come out. Her bud sites are slowly starting to fill in nicely. Plant #2 has really filled in and is just a very quick growing pheno. It had the onset of flowering very quick and has just kept going at the same rate since🙌 Only thing about that is she is using way more Phosphorous than the other 2 plants and was starting to show the beginning of a deficiency, luckily It was caught quick and is not affected any of the top new growth or bud site areas. So now she is getting her own nutrient solution with a slightly higher amount of phosphorous. She also has a Strawberry fruity like smell, it is very unique! Plant #3 Is doing great👍 She doesn't have to much of a smell yet, but it does have a hint of a skunky/fruity smell to it according to what my nose is telling me😂 Overall they are growing fantastic with the exception of the slight P deficiency that showed up on Plant #2, Like I stated earlier I believe it is due in part to how fast she is growing and me not thinking to add a little more knowing she was growing faster than the other plants, combined with her position in the tent. Where she is kinda in the overlap of the 1000w HPS lights even though the light is strongest directly under them. Where I have 2 running in a 5'x10' area. So the overlap of them into each other creates quite an even light coverage, most of the time. but sometimes can be stronger than directly under the light depending on the spacing of the hoods/reflectors and type of hoods/reflectors, and that is what was happening here. They where fairly close together so the edge of their light dispersion was reaching almost to the center of the other light creating a pretty intense spot of light in the overlap. So I moved the lights just a little further apart, but did not want to go to far because the plant was loving that much light. and really only wanted to reduce it to help it bounce back from the slight P deficiency, since the more light the more photosynthesis the more Phosphorous😊 Anyways Thanks for stopping by to check things out!!👊 Happy Growing an Plentiful Harvests to All!!🙏

Più ci avviciniamo al raccolto e più sento che ne è valsa la pene investire tempo in questa piantina

Apollo is coming along nicely and enjoying new friends, zkittles, gorilla cookies and granddaddy purple. All autos. Godzilla cookies is the runt. Apollos schedule : Water & feed Tues, Thurs, and Sunday. Increased TPS to early bloom at 9ml/g and Signal to 3ml/g. I think she could use more fertilizer but I'm gun shy on feeding too much. I noticed the new leafs are thinner than veg leaves indicating early flower. No pics on 10/12. My special day. 10/13 pics and video outside before first defoliation. And after defoliation. Note to reduce impact of stress, I ground up 1 of my B vitamins and dispersed in water after feeding on Friday 13th. Apollo is strong. Once I did definition you can really see her. 1)Very thick strong stem. 2) Very tight node structure. There was no space between the first and 2nd leaf group. 3) Side shoots almost as thick as the mail stem 4) roots at the soil top. I used MycoBliss in the soil and planting hole. Friends, Royal Queen Seeds Is offering a discount on purchases 👉**GROWERS20** for 20% 👈 Https://www.royalqueenseeds.com Link to Apollo https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/us/56-f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds Variety: F1 Hybrid auto Genetic Background: Lemon x Black Domina x Sugar Mangolia THC: Very high Yield: XXL Height: 55 - 75 cm Flowering time: 45 - 50 days Harvest: 75 - 80 days after sprouting Effect: Calming, Creative, Motivating , Physically Relaxing Flavor: Citrus, Herbal, Lavender, Pine, Vanilla Major terpenes: Caryophyllene, Farnesene, Myrcene, Terpinolene Climate: Short Summers ==================================== Equipment: AC Infinity CLOUDLAB 844 – Advance Grow Tent 48”x48”x80” CONTROLLER 69 PRO – Grow Tent Controller CLOUDLINE LITE 6 - Inline Fan 6" IONBOARD S44 – LED Grow Light Board 400W CLOUDRAY S6 – Oscillating Circulation Clip Fan Carbon Filter 6” Pots: 5 gallon Air pots Soil Fox Farm Happy Frog amended with worm castings, dolomite lime and mycorrhiza. Seeds provided by Royal Queen Seeds Check them out 😎 Https://www.royalqueenseeds.com Link to the seeds https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/us/56-f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds use Discount Code 👉 **GROWERS20** for 20% discount 👈 Nutrients: Total Plant Solution >TPS1 >Canopy >Signal Amended soil recipe #2 used for soil prep. https://www.paramountseedfarms.com/super-soil-recipes/

We are in Flush !! Was giving them GH Flora series + rapid start + cal mag

Comeing on a treat. Just seing signs of pistols as of yesterday! One had a suspected mag deficiency.unsure why as other ones all fine. Did a foliar of epsom salts. Hasn't got any worse. One smells of sour apples and other is fruity apples! Amazing. Can't wait to see what there like in the next 3 4 weeks!

They grow up so fast , my ladies are at 12 inches tall coming into week 3. I feed them 1 a week with a low solution of neuts and I will continue to increase every week until at max before they burn. As I go into buding I slowly introduce the flowering neuts and increase slowly until last 2 weeks before harvest. This system seem to make them excell nicely and grow at an amazing rate.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

almost ready to cut 🤤🌱 Day 76 1-2 days and proceed with the harvest I am aspetrating that the soil dries up well. we'll see when they give us these little girls of fustbuds

Eva Seeds High Level 2nd Feb 2020 Im updating a day early because Ive had a major fuckup!! I sprayed my girls with potassium bicarbonate and it's scorched some leaves pretty badly 😱😓 I'm hoping they recover because they are just starting to flower FFS 😒 But its my bad and I'm pretty pissed at myself for doing it . Im gonna post up a grow question regarding the burnt foliage . Cheers for checking in Update 4th feb Ive done the soil ph test thankfully it's still well within optimum range so one less thing to worry about for now. I only removed the leaves that were completely burnt and dried out any with burns just on the fringes got left alone , Gave a misted spray with distilled water and added a big ass Fan to the greenhouse. This should create all the air movement needed to help keep it cool and not humid. We have 5 days in a row forecast ahead with temps that are expected to reach 40 celcius during the day. Whilst the greenhouse provides shade , the inside temps can reach 50 on a 40 degree day not good without plenty of air. movement

Great run

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Last week the plants grew looking very healthy although I still have a feeling the low humidity is slowing their growth, by the end of the first week I started raising the EC to make the increasing for this week smoother, run-off EC is substantially increasing so I will start to fertigate them twice a day for this week.

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Flower Day 65 since time change to 12/12 hrs. Hey everyone 😀. We arrived last week. The lady developed very well to the end 👍. I am very curious how it will be. As always, it is left in the dark for 48 hours before the harvest. The harvest update is coming next week. Until then, I wish you a lot of fun and all the best ☺️ You can buy this Strain at : https://www.zamnesia.com/de/4532-zamnesia-seeds-gorilla-glue-feminisiert.html Type: Gorilla Glue ☝️🏼 Genetics: Chem's Sister x Chocolate Diesel 50% Sativa/50% Indica 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Ripenes plant and deafling for penetration light pop corn buds,trichome is milky,wait other 2 week for harvest day

They are beautiful, I wasn’t to impressed at first but I see the beauty in this plant growing very just like and I don’t have any smell problem which is great that mean the house is perfect. The miscommunication that you plant smelling loud is a good thing it could be but your plant is really not cool enough but we’ll go into that in the future .. but yes they have perked up since being repotted and they going in to flower .. but they want food they want a lot .. but I like a heavy feeder usually they finish quicker in my experience. But yes I love two of there structures but I’m overall impress with four weeks of natural grow where they say you nutrients bottle cause soil plants don’t grow quick they lying you just got have the right mix. Get a base and add on top of that recipe. But yeah now they are getting food and bottle nutrients. Flower I want the best out come lol so yeah I willing to try anything lol.. but these plant are great . Go pick these up at bros iykyk