the first week of flower

4 days of cloudy weather, hoping for more sun this week! So far so good, very tiny plant, probably just genetics? Flowering pretty fast!

The plant grows magnificently. 14.5. watering 600ml 16.6. topped

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

I actually enjoyed this grow cycle and will be popping more Elev8 genetics I have some more strains that is put up in the freezer . Next up will be Star Punch think it Starfighter crossed with Purple Punch . Magic Cherries smoke smoothly and aromas Magic Melon and the taste terps Cherry lightweight. Satisfied ✊🏾💯

plants took flight. If we go like this now, this harvest is very fertile

Well what can I say they plumped up this week and they are getting large but more purple as well the bottom the nugs hidden from light are still very very hairy and sticky as hell just so puffy and very plump this week I will be adding the 2 week pure K supplement it Is a green planet supplement called dense it makes buds dense and compact then 1 week of flush

Did 10l two days ago and it’s bone dry, from 5 to 10l every two days or less , Just a rain water this whole week . She stacking nice , heat still burning some terps but it’s not as bad as 28C+ Clones recovered too and doing somewhat ok , glad they had little stunt so I have time to finish mom off and then repot them

Watermelon Candy is alive! Canna pro+ 30% perlite from pokon 60 gram easy boost 20 grams easy roots

Fire 🔥 she smoked nice. Smooth and got a sexy taste. Overall a easy grown and will try again

Weeks 15 - It’s Ready - The 1st Gorilla Glue Is Ready To Be Havrest, I Gave It 3 Weeks Of Flushing And The Trichomes Of The Top Heads Are Most Cloudy With A Few Clear And A Little Amber Trichomes And The Bottom Buds Are Mostly Cloudy With A Few Clear And The Sceny Is Still At It’s Peak But You could Tell It Was About To Head Over The Morning And Start To Take A Downright Spiral I Will Be Hanging It To Dry For 7-9 Days At A Temperature Of 70 Degrees and 60% Humidity. The Slower It Dries The Better.

Las flores más lindas del condado son las de strawberry banana, que hermosa genética! Perdón por no cuidarla y alimentarla como correspondía 27/04 Se riega con 2.5 litros de agua + calmag + top auto. PH:5.5 EC:0.9 29/04 encontré una placa de saltahojas del mismo color que los tallos, por este motivo fue muy difícil darme cuenta. Se estaban chupando la sabia de mi planta, al menos 6 capture con mis dedos. 30/04 se riega con 2,5 L de agua + Monster Bloom 0.1g x L. PH:6.2 EC 0.8

After flushing them and defoliation, they have come back looking much more bushy! I’m definitely happy with how they are coming along, though would like to see some more stretching and growth from the smaller plant. They had their first water in 9 days on the 11th

Gracias al equipo de Kannabia Seed, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 Moby Dick 🐋: Criada a partir de dos parentales icónicos, como es el cruce de White Widow y una Haze pura G13, este choque de titanes provoca un híbrido que golpea a las puertas de las sativas más fuertes disponibles en el mercado. Estamos ante una criatura impresionante en todos los sentidos, con ejemplares que florecen en solo 9-10 semanas en interior y arrojan un peso en lonja de 550 gr./m² Al igual que su padre Haze, nuestra Moby Dick ofrece agradables notas cítricas, pero con efluvios de vainilla y eucalipto, una mezcla de aromas que genera una combinación intrigante, que puede llenar cualquier habitación con una fragancia inolvidable. El sabor es muy parecido a su olor, con toques de limón agrio que harán que tu lengua cosquillee al inhalar, convirtiéndose lentamente en un humo dulce y terroso, con pinceladas de madera e incienso que se adhieren al interior de la boca al exhalar. 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 2: Gran primera semana, ella ha dado un gran estiron estos días, si sigue así será una gran cosecha. Esta semana se practica defoliacion, poda de ramas bajas y se le agrega Sticky Fingers . La carpa está ocupada al 100%, sigue una floracion explosiva gracias a @Marshydro y @Xpertnutrients y @Trolmaster con esta gran genética 💪. Potencia de la lámpara: 70%

Die Seeds mit SeedTreatment gecodet - danach in einen 1L Topf mit Seedtreatment und Boron von rootinn

7/4 SUN was poking out a little bit. Plants loved that little feeding and seen to he noticeable larger this morning. I'm considering starting the nutes. At least the organic ones as well as upping the water intake I've been scared to water with all this rain and my experience last time. I plan on applying BT this afternoon and doing some work on the bottoms of the plants. I also saw a chipmunk in my cage so I have some spots in my fence that need to be patched. I know I can't compare this year to orher years as these are seeds and all the other years were clones. I CAN say for certain that my plants are healthiest they've been out of any of my journals. Previous plants were much larger but I was fighting numerous fungal, pathogens and pests at the sane time. Ear wigs would've lollipopped most buddies by now but I've seen no sign of them. I'm going to apply more poison where they were and add some rat traps inside the cage for the chipmunks. Once I fix the cage I think I'll be good. UPDATE: Went back over and fixed the holes on my cage from high winds. I found an old wire trap or cage and just cut sections and ziptied them to the existing wire and to the structure thus covering any open holes. I'll need to put lathes aroubdvtge outside because if a rodent REALLY wanted in they could get in. My belt had been wearing thin but I use shit until it breaks (yesterday the heal came off my shoe lol) so I was working hard sweating my nuts off and my belt gives out totally. At least ive got the major stuff done. I took a few videos too. I'm imagining it was this little bit of sun that gave these plants that boost of growth but I'm wondering if the added nutes had anything to do with it. Bags weren't light and I could feel moisture in the soil so I didn't water. I'll check again tomorrow morning. Since I didn't see many plants or even leaves for that matter with damage I decided to hold off ob the BT and the plant doctor. Only time will tell if that was the right decision. 7/5 Plants look fantastic. I see a few more holes in leaves sporadically amd I'm hoping it's pillars. I've seen lots of lightning bugs on my camera though and grasshoppers are abundant. Not one growth shoot has been chewed (knock on wood) which is what the earwigs had always done. I watched a video from last year and by nowcthey had lollipopped all lower leaves. It may not be the best weather growing season wise but despite the rh consistently in the 90's I still don't have pm or fungal pathogens. Need to get the BT out. Didn't water as we've had all that rain. I'll water either tonight or tomorrow morning. Sunny high in the 90s low is 66. Tomorrow looks good too. UPDATE WENT BACK OVER AROUND FIVE. IT WAS 88 DEGREES SO I WANTED TO CHECK THE GROW BAGS. THE POTS ARE FINE. IT WAS HUMID AS HELL. ONE PLANT WAS SLIGHTLY DROOPY BUT VERY LIGHT AND DRY. I FOUND TWO OTHERS THAT SEEMED LIGHTER THAN THE REST BUT HADNT DROOPED. I MIXED TWO GALLONS OF WATER WITH 1TSP KANGOROOTS AMD PHED IT CLOSE TO 6. I FED THE 3 PLANTS THAT WERE SUPER DRY LIKE A HALF GALLON AND SPRED THE REST OVER THE OTHER EIGHT PLANTS. THEY WERENT DROOPING BUT THEY WERE VERY DRY. I PLAN ON A FULL WATER TOMORROW. I WOULDVE DONE IT TODAY IF THE TEMPS WERENT SO HIGH. ITS RAINED A MONTH STRAIGHT SO I HAVENT HAD TO WATER. I MADE A COUPLE VIDEOS BUT I'LL HAVE TO UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/6 Another super hot day. I hefted the pots and they still had some weight but I could tell they were dry. This rain has messed up my watering schedule. Well it made it so I didn't NEED to water. These are big plants now. I need to get a schedule to stick too. They're going to probably need a gallon a piece at least. I'm still nervous watering. Right now I'm just reading the plants. I added .5tsp kelp me/you to 1 gallon of water to help with heat stress. I fed an additional two gallons to the garden this morning including the two container plants in the back. They were dry on top too but I know they have water deeper down. Next watering I'll be more consistent and try to give them there 10%. It's great having the bags elevated. I can finally see when I start getting run off. I could even measure the ph of it instead of relying on that meter. Ill check the ph when I go back over. Still a few 🐛 holes but they are few and far between. I really don't want to spray for such a small problem but if I cant find them at night that's what I'll do. UPDATE: Another 90 degree day. I went back over and gave the garden a gallon of water as they were dry and it didn't rain. Tried to use a soil ph meter to check ph. First couple were 6.4, 6.5 then I got 7.3 and I accidently dropped it. Then I got somethings that were high eights and even one 9! Obviously the Meter shit the bed. I'll lower the ph of the water slightly when I fully water tomorrow and I'm going to measure the runoff. 7/8 I must've messed up the journal again as the dates are off. GAVE PLANTS A FULL WATERING. Each girl got a gallon. I couldn't upload my videos this morning as I had to break up a fight. 3 on 1. Didn't give me a chance to put the videos up. I'll take some stills then I can upload them. I took stills and they all uploaded but didn't fucking save. I'm nit going to keep trying to upload if it's not going to. Noticed a few more holes in leaves and one skeletinized leaf so I need to either spray the bt or something more versatile. I'm putting more poison around the cage and de between the bags. I'll go check things out tonight. Sick of writing a book and uploading to just hace them disappear 7/9 Did a quick video today. Noticed the bags were fairly light despite the plants being soaked amd the pallets wet. I was pressed for time. I gave two gallons to the entire garden. I hope that will hold them over until tomorrow. I'll need to up how much water I give them. Going with a gallon and a half next time. I see more pillar spots and a moth took off when I shook the plants this morning. So I'm gonna have too apply the BT. I figure if I go over before dark tonight I might be able to see aju nocturnal insects around. Luckily my dad feeds the birds and they are always there. I think they help with pests. UPDATE IT WAS A LITTLE COOLER TODAY BUT MICH MORE HUMID. I WENT AROUND SIX TO MAKE SURE THE GIRLS WERE OK WITH WATER AND TO GIVE THEM A TREATMENT OF BT. I WENT THROUGH THE GARDEN ANDCGOUND THREE LEQVES TO DEFOLIATE AND LITERALLY A COUPLE LEAVES ON TWO PLANTS WITH PILLAR HILESM WHEN I ARRIVED TWO BIRDS FLEW OUT. A HORNET CAME IN WHILE I WAS THERE. THIS DO LESS APPROACH SEEMS TO BE REALLY WORKING. I DODNT SEE NEARLT ENOUGH DAMAGE TO WARRANT SPRAY8NG MY EXTREMELY HEALTHY GIROS WITH ANYTHING. ILL KEEP AN EYE ON THEM AND CLEAN THEM UP A BIT. I DO NEED TO INSTALL THE VERY8CAL TRELLIS FOR SUPPORT. THEYRE PRETTY HEALTHY THOUGH. ONE PLANT IS ABOUT AS WIDE AS IT IS TALL. STILL......PLANTS ARE EXPLODING AND ITS GETTING TIGHT IN THERE. I NEED TO GET THE TRELLIS UP THOUGH. 7/10 I went over and was planning to water. Plants were wet and it's raining. Top of the medium was moist but the bags were light. ONE bag was super light but seeing that we are having showers all day and an additional half inch of rain coming tonight so I didn't water them. Especially since they looked great. Decided to to spray BT yet as the damage is so small and i think the birds have been taking care of the pillars for me. Now I'm wondering if I should've gave that ONE plant a little bit of water but it will be find. Did a video. I'm being careful not to over water. Last year this is when all my buddies were devoured by earwigs. And no senescence like the years before. I think it was hust those earwigs. I haven't lost shot for leaves. Even the stalks are bright green and look amazing.

……during the last 3 growths, I worked to mix the best foundation. I think I succeeded 😊 …..it is a mix of coconut, light mix of biobizz and organic nutrients that I tried to harmonize into the best that I can provide to the plants in my modest conditions. How? simply by observing all the growths and looking for the right setting, creating nature in the growing room.

These are coming along well! They are very happy and are growing vigorously. They started developing lots of pistils over the past couple days and they look super healthy. I have been watering heavily and they are soaking it up. The far right plant is still much taller than the others but not much I can do about it at this point. Thankfully it seems like they have stopped stretching for the most part. Hopefully all their energy will go to making big buds in the coming weeks!

ALRIGHT! I think i had a successful first week of the first grow :D The bitches are showing steady growth, started giving m a mix of Terra Grow, Pure Zyme & Power Roots. they seem to like it but hey what do i know? Don't know why the other half of my lights is taking so long to get here but we'll survive. temperature is still a little on the high side during the day, around 29 degrees, i will be installing 2 fans tonight which should fix that problem. (bought some fancy ass controller to automatically adjust the fan speed when temperatures rise, hope it works as good as it souds) This week will also be moving week, filled 6.5L 20x20cm pots with those brown balls and Plagron Grow Mix. started watering them in with a mix of Rain & Tapwater + Pure Roots & Power Zym. WHY?? again idk, there are so many tips online i'll just follow all of m. Doing the same again tomorrow morning and transplant them 2 hours before the lights go on. *day 12 edit. Moved the plants into the new pots, within 12 hours i could see them grow again so that must mean they like it, the rest of my lights arrived so we're growing under 10x 23w philips tornado CFL now because they are cheap as fuck and it works amazing. the whole temperature activated fan cooling system is out for now since the temperature is at a stable 26 degrees, and i didnt know that fans make so much noise turning off and on the whole time damnnnnn Let me know what i'm doing wrong & happy growing 😘

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