Ok these auto girls have been through a lot the past few weeks: three different nutrient lines, multiple flushes, LST, a bit of supercropping. All from a newbies first grow. So at this point I think it's safe to say, these AK48 girls are pretty bad ass. Coming near the end of my 4th week and they are flowering! I can not believe I've made it this far. They look great, growing daily, and make me smile every single day. I was having a lot of nutrient issues up until I received my sample set of Oregon's Only line. Holy crap y'all my plants look great with this stuff! This line just feels more intuitive for me. I had used the GO box nutes, then some Fox Farm nutes so I know I needed to flush before using the OO nutes. It worked out. I just went for It and used the recommended full strength. Running my pH at 6.3-6.5 flowering in coco coir/perlite. I feel there needs to be a slave to the plant song? Because that's what I've willingly become. I had shoulder surgery this week and not feeling super hot, kinda depressed. But looking forward to taking care of these girls each day has really put me in a good mood. Since my shoulder is out of commission I've enlisted my daughter's help with helping me with watering, etc I water with full nutes when the fabric pots feel light. Obligatory doggo pic :) Any and all suggestions, tips, critics are welcome.

been a little slack on the old diaries but I’m here with the update some big improvements this week bud sites appearing, she’s stretched impressively to all in all I’m with the way my girls our growing 😁 happy growing guys 👊

Stretch now✈️ Nice flowering🌼 Looking good👀 🫧PH is 6,2-6,5. 💡SunPro Hitter 200w 2,9umol/J is 📈40 cm above the flowers. 💨RH is 50-60% Grape 🍪Cookies from Fairseeds is very little. 🍏Apple Strudels are very energetic and grow incredibly fast🚀 Smell is sweeti fruit.🍋🍏🍓🍉🍊🍑

Week continued pony-tailing tops until the middle of the week some tops outgrew the ties . She’s grown back week after that defoliation . I’m proud of her she’s almost 1 ft tall 😂. Shes truly a shrub like plant now. We’re waiting for those dry amendments to become available to her and are hopeful for the next 4 weeks to be explosive in uniform growths across the canop

Sehr schön geworden 👍 👌🌱 werde sie noch etwas stehen lassen.

Die kleinen gelben Blätter unten kann man sicherlich schon längst entfernen. Ansonsten geht es ihr super und die 4 Hauptriebe sind auf einer Höhe.

That was a pleasure

starts 4 week !! the good purple tones are seen

Buenas a todos familia, 4 semana ya.Recta final del periodo de crecimiento,conforme cambiemos el foco cambiamos el fotoperiodo a 12/12 . El trasplante fue un éxito, no hubo complicación ninguna. La tierrra que usamos fue PLAGON LIGHT MIX. Todo va sobre ruedas , la condiciones en crecimiento fueron óptimas , las power plant xl, aún que parezca que no, acabarán recuperando, solo les falta ese pequeño estirón y ale.

D92 - rien D93 - rien D94 - rien D95 - rien D96 - jour de récolte🤩 Beaucoup de travail aujourd’hui 💪 Plus de 13heures pour la manucure du gorille 🤪 Début du séchage pendant une dizaine de jours en essayant de maintenir l’humidité de la pièce à 50% , une température de 21 degrés, le tout dans le noir Hâte de voir combien cette jolie plante va me donner ……..⚖️🔮

Really love a set of scales to keep track of weight too. pH and EC are both critical for thriving plant health, but temperature also plays a pivotal role in achieving optimal growth. It also happens to be the fundamental parameter that's most commonly overlooked. When you think about temperature in the context of a growing environment, you could be referring to the temperature of the air around the plants or you could also be referring to the temperature of nutrient solution or irrigation water, which will affect the root zone temperature. While air temperature is important, for the purposes of this piece, I'll be focusing on root zone temperature and its effect on nutrient uptake and overall plant health. That's because a plant's root system is the location of two essential chemical processes: water and nutrient absorption. In each of these processes, having the correct root zone temperature is paramount for these to occur efficiently. In a nutshell, root zone temperature will affect the rate at which your plants are able to absorb nutrients. If you let your root zone temperature remain unmonitored and uncontrolled, this could lead to disastrous effects on your overall crop yield. Nutrient absorption is largely driven by chemical processes, which take place in your plants' roots; the efficacy of these processes is determined by the temperatures to which those roots are exposed. Once your root zone temperature moves out of its optimal range, the plant will not be able to deliver optimal levels of nutrients and water. Ideally, you should aim to have your nutrient solution or irrigation water temperature at around 18 – 22 °C (65 - 72 °F) to ensure optimal nutrient and water uptake. In addition to having an effect on nutrient absorption, your root zone temperature also affects oxygen availability and solubility. If your water is too warm, you could risk starving your roots of oxygen as warm water cannot hold as much dissolved oxygen as colder water. On the other hand, if your water is too cold, this could shock your plant roots, decrease plant metabolic rates, and stunt plant growth. Peace out.

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Starting to stretch after 1 week flowering.

Week twenty-two is officially done on the Pineapple Upside Down Cake. This week is a turning point, marking the end of vegetative growth and the start of the flowering transition. I decided to switch the light cycle to twelve-twelve. Initially, the plan was to wait for a stronger recovery, but the reality is simple: it wasn’t happening. The plant was given roughly three full weeks to acclimate after stress, and the response stayed limited. Rather than staying stuck in an endless waiting phase, I chose to move forward. This means accepting that flowering may not be extremely vigorous or high-energy. That’s fine. This run is also about observation, learning, and adapting. Flowering was initiated gently, at around three hundred PPFD, to avoid adding more stress. At the same time, I switched the nutrient program to Athena bloom and adjusted the recipe accordingly. The plant has now been under flowering conditions for about twenty-four to forty-eight hours. Over the coming week, I expect to see the first signs of stretch. It’s a bit frustrating, because structurally the plant was doing really well. The LST work created a clean, balanced canopy, and the potential was clearly there. Now the focus is simple. No rushing. No over-correction. Just letting the plant transition naturally into flower and observing how she reacts. Next week will officially mark the first true week of flowering. From there, we’ll reassess posture, stretch, and overall vitality. For now, the plant is left alone to settle into its new rhythm. That’s it for week twenty-two. See you next week.

Wow!! It was sunny and hot all week! You can see that they almost doubled their size and are looking pretty much more healthy. That is also because I followed @MadeInGermany 's advice and decided to wait more until I had to water. They seem to have liked that, beacuse there is no more sign of Ca blocking in the leaves. And they grew very nicely, no need of everything. Also following his advice I will use Cal/Mag in the next watering. But, you know, I'm making it cheap... so I will use another home-made recipe: wood ash fertilizer, which include those nutrients and some that are needed in flowering stage -which seems to be starting, so next week will have the flowering label-. It also degrades the N in the soil that could be still causing a little overfeeding (leaves' tips are a bit burnt). However, I admit that my mistake was overwatering from the beggining. Lesson learned! No watering for the whole week and the plnat didn't seem to worry about it. Man! If only it had been this sunny all the time! Plants look very healthier and are way bigger, with huge new leaves. A little amount of pistils showed up in the last days, so I guess it is the moment for stretching. Knowing that, I decided to do a little training on Sweet, as it is the one a bit behind. You can see in the last picture how I took a couple leaves that were blocking light from side branches-future bud sites- and taped them, so they didn't. If results are good I might do the same with Rebel, but I have a feeling that she'll do good without it. Sadly, next week will be all rainy and cloudy... Nothing to do tho. Any commentary will be thanked, even if it is about how cheesy the videos are! 😂

Clones termination. Mom's flowering. Yep, this is an example of how it should not be done. The clones survived two cases of tip rot and a transplant after cleaning the tips. They finally developed some roots, but still didn’t make it. I kept only one, but I need two. So… the mom is about to start flowering after stretching, and I cut eight branches again to make a second clone. After some bending and tying, the mom returned to the flower room. If your light has a flower mode, now is the time to turn it on. The fast stretch period is over, so add some red light. It helps with yield. This time we’re going to do it right, using the experience from the first attempt at cloning. Check the clones 2–5 times a day. Keep the propagator lid closed at all times, and don’t let water touch the cloning medium. Also, the cubes shouldn’t be soaking wet, just moist. This balance between water content and airflow is crucial for future roots.

J'ai lancé la floraison le 24 avril !! J'espère que mes plantes vont faire de belles fleurs 🌱🌴

Legend Timestamp: 📅 Measures: 🛠️ Water: 🌊 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D50/F11 - 12/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.3 (stable) pH 5.5 (raised) -- pure water 🌊 RES Changed 💦💦💦 💼 Made some LST on the little one. No more work on the bigger 🧠 I'm going to change the water within today and run it for 12-24h and then put only bloom nutes 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D51/F12 - 13/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.3 (by set up) pH 5.5 🌊 New water, calmag, bloom A and B and B52 💼 Removed all LST constraints on the big one. Some spouts removed from the little one. Some defolation 🧠 All training was removed now I will let her grow normally 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D52/F13 - 14/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.0 (falling) pH 6 (rising) -- EC 1.3 pH 6.1 🌊 No water added. Added Big Bud and Bud candy to raise EC until 1.3 💼 LST and defolation on the little one. Made Timelapse video. 🧠 She's eating a lot: very good 🚀 The little one is sprouting out the first petals ________________________________ 📅 D53/F14 - 15/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.1 (falling) pH 5.2 (falling) -- EC 1.45 pH 5.4 🌊 Water decresed a lot. Added 4L and Bloom A-B - Calmag and a little of Rhino Skin (silica) 💼 LST on the little one, some defolation on the big 🧠 I would like to have only nice big fat buds, so I need to work on this goal 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D54/F15 - 16/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.5 (rising) pH 4.7 (falling) -- EC 1.4 pH 5.4 🌊 Water decresed a lot. Added 6L Bloom A-B and lot of Calmag 💼 Only a little defolation 🧠 Next time, no calmag at all 🚀 By mistake I added a lot of calmag so to balance I have to add lot of water and now the pot is completly full. Keep in mind there is a lot of Calmag in it ________________________________ 📅 D55/F16 - 17/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.5 (stable) pH 5.2 (rising) -- EC 1.2 pH 5.4 🌊 Added pure water and a little of silica (Rhino skin) 💼 🧠 🚀 Some leafes tips are burning, so I'm going to go back to 1,2, trying to have a good pH range ________________________________ 📅 D56/F17 - 18/10/23 🛠️ EC 1.2 (stable) pH 5.7 (rising) 🌊 No water neither nutes added 💼 Little defolation 🧠 Maybe the Thrips from Granada come out and infected Marlene. I will spray also her tonigh 🚀 Some symptoms of insects like leaves bitten

Looking great. She seems to be easy to keep happy and less finicky than the OG