Buds starting to get bigger

It was very easy to grow as a super-strong nothing can hurt her for nut burs u need to do it way over so she starts to get burns well for my first DWC I love it buds are amazing even not experienced like me can grow her perfectly I can't wait to try and smoke here 😎😎🤩😘

This week I’m defoliated the baby’s hard so all the nuggs are getting light

Hallo Growmies, Von der Mitte der 6 bis 7 Woche habe ich ihr PK13/14 verabreicht. Auch eine aller letzte Entlaubung vor der Ernte habe ich vorgenommen.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme und sieht dabei noch richtig schön aus 🤙🤤😜

Sieht wunderbar aus die Dame. Der nächst größere Topf wurde auch schon vorbereitet.

Sigo abriendo doblando y atando las ramas laterales para abrir las niñas y que ocupen todo el espacio de la malla ,una de ellas va mucho mejor que la otra

X

Esta semana seleccionamos las plantas más adelantadas de nuestro cultivo, para colocarlas bajo la nueva luminaria Led LazerLite Pro 720 de The Pure Factory, con la potencia ajustada al 50%. Miramos de que las cuatro variedades estén representadas bajo el led y bajo las lamparas HID, de esta forma podremos ver las diferencias entre los dos sistemas. Seguimos con nuestra rutina de fertilización para la fase vegetativa Grow Soldier + Green Mystic by JUJU Royal y CALMAG de BioBizz. Al final de la semana, cambiamos el ciclo lumínico para pasar a 12/12 Floración.

10/2: My soil mix was too hot and I accidentally killed 11 of the 12 Fastbuds seedlings I had going. So, I started about 20 Candy Cane hybrids in rapid rooters wetted with myco, tricho, and beneficial bacteria. All but one popped up. One of them did a cobra-basket and petered out. The beans all came from tray trash that accumulated while I was smoking three diff strains, so I probably won't know what they are until they are flowering. 10/4: Looks like I'll have enough growing that I have to cull the weakest few. I can feasibly (possibly) squeeze 14 into the lower section of the closet under 720w if they act right and if I do some training, and another 4 in the top under 200w if I keep them at 30" or less in height. 10/6: I think I'll veg everybody in the bottom section until I'm out of space, then move the shorter 4 or maybe 5 into the top section as necessary...and move the tiniest ones outdoors to finish. I just don't have the heart to kill anything that's got a potential yield of a half-ounce or more. Some of the most diminutive plants I've grown produced the stankiest buds.. I've currently got the 200w 3500k+660nm running at about 32" in the middle of the closet, and one of the 3 pairs of 120w 3000k+660nm quantum boards running at about 36" and should be sufficient coverage for the next week or so. Then I'll kick on the pair of boards closest to the doorway and spread them out a bit..and then I'll move the 200w light to the top section along with the best 4 short plants. At that point I'll turn on the center 2 qb's and install a 2 foot Solacure Flower Power UV light in the perpendicular center channel of my frame. 10/7: I installed my new AC Infinity 6" fan in the attic and hooked up a 16" carbon filter today. I used some sound deadening foam on the rafter that I mounted it to and removed 100% of the vibration. I haven't programmed the thermo/hygro stuff yet, but tested it on high and I can't hear a thing anywhere in the structure.👍 I'm also purchasing a dual 120mm fan system from AC Infinity in the door, behind the grille I already installed to serve as fresh air intake. It also has a thermostat feature that will allow me to set it to only come on when the temps are too high, so I'm optimistic that it will allow me to manage the temperatures in this closet with about 1000w running for 18-20 hours a day.🙏 I moved the 200w 3500k+660nm to the top section today and lowered my QB frame to 32" above the plants. I have two pairs of them running now, and received the replacement HLG 240-48A driver today for the third pair. I'll hook it up later..dont need it now.. 10/8: I fed most of them today for the first time...about 16 oz of solution containing grow big, big bloom, kelp me kelp you, boomerang, and armor si. I hooked up the 3rd pair of qb's today....wow that's bright....they're gonna love it!😎 The last of the sprouts has been planted and is growing. That's a total of 19.... 3 of them still in 1 liter pots and getting plain distilled water. I also foliar fed all of them with a little big bloom and kelp me kelp you. 10/9: I got some Axiom to apply onto them tomorrow. It's got a good amount of Harpin a|b proteins which trigger rapid plant growth and other defensive traits that are proven to be canna-friendly, like enhanced resin production and increased resistance to molds, mildews, and fungi. I foliar fed them today with big bloom kelp me kelp you, and the day following the Axiom application I plan to foliar feed them with Biotabs BoomBoom Spray to negate any initial ill-effects caused by the Axiom. I'll probably just mist them with distilled water for a day or two following that regimen to ensure that it's all rinsed off. But, following that break in the foliar feeding routine, I've got some Fulvic/Humic acid to rain gently over them for a couple of days. 10/11: End of week 1, and I'm happy with their progress thus far.😀 They had no trouble with the "Harpin protein attack" I engaged them with yesterday... at all, and even look quite a bit bigger than I expected. They also had their first "night time* last night...4 blissful hours in 74f temps with 48%RH.💤

We entered 5th week today. 👀 I'm really happy with everything so far. Bare in mind we still have around 3weeks to go, so them buds hopefully will double or triple in size on those upcoming weeks🤞 But if not, i will be happy anyways because they are so frosty already 🤩 Smell in a room is also nice. Sweet, and really strong. See you next week🙃

Blimburn GSC early flower. It was a rough week for me as I found caterpillars in my 2 of the 4 Blimburn GSC. I had vegged for indoor for quite some time for the outdoor season. It really doesn't surprise me because the other 2 that are in my covered screened outdoor grow area are perfectly fine. Any time you loose one It's heart breaking so loosing 2 is twice as hard. On the up side the 2 remaining look and seem to be doing amazing so that's greats. My piggies and K9's really enjoyed the plants and had no complaints disposing it. Hopefully being in the indoor area the other 2 will finish up but only time will tell. Happy Growing.

ordered 10 gallon pots for the 2 blue dream and pineapple express they are going into a different tent. Plan on replanting Friday. Autos all are doing fine, think I've been having issues with cal mag hopefully I can get it sorted out. All the plants are pretty big at this point except the gelato #33 its so small lol. Very crowed in a 4x4 and the plants need more room maybe moving the photos out will help the autos out and let them spread out more. Ordered some Recharge, excited to try out. I heard about it on dude grows lol great podcast 👏 Picked up some blue planet liquid seaweed and also their gold shield silica, also excited to try. Lastly got some Dynomyco to add in. Both blue dream and pineapple express are in their new home another 4x4 tent. Only running 1 halide at 400 watts and a small mars led. Will boost the light up significantly during flower with 1200 actual watts and change out to super lumen hps. Running a terrabloom carbon scrubber out of the second hid hood all powered by a 6 inch AC Infinity cloudline venting outdoors. Also using another 6 inch to bring in fresh air and have a portable ac to keep it nice and cool I think its important to mention after every grow I like to go in and clean out my tent. Vacuum up leaves/dirt, Wipe down all surfaces of the tent(I use paper towels and water in a spray bottle) and also clean off my lights. Wipe them down make sure the glass is cleaned(It makes a big difference). I grow strictly for my own personal consumption and I want the cleanest product.

She smell so so so strong that doesn't even look like an automatic strain,super strong mango smell coming off the flowers,I'm doing a perfect job here,she's happy and she's giving the best of her! 🌱💚#organics

Brought to u by Mars Hydro. Grow on Earth. Grow with Mars 🚀🚀 All pics and videos taken day 28. Almost half way there. Rice is frosty, Simily not so much. Eat. Sleep. Grow 🌲🌲

Week 5 is all about the first topping for mainlining or manifold training. Each plant is cut just above 3rd node, and we defoliate everything below. Going for 2 nice horizontal lines.